Rockfax Description
This excellent climb for those who have just enjoyed Heart of Darkness. Follow Heart of Darkness to the traverse line then climb up until it is possible to move left into the bottomless corner above the big roof. Climb the exposed corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. R.Burns 4.76 Apr/1976

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.

James Oswald 01/Apr Lead O/S

Really good. One of the best e1s I've done.

Mr. K 01/Apr 2nd
julesmckim 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Well balanced, great position

with Alex Renshaw
Hidden 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 23/Sep/16 2nd
mackers 04/Sep/16 -
Dizz 02/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Paul Tanton
markfairbank 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Anne Gumbley 01/Sep/16 2nd
markalmack 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
WB 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

really good. surprisingly so.

Lessworkmoreclimbing 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Have seconded before but forgotten. Brain not working well (too much beer? Too much climbing?!), went off route (went too far up before stepping into groove) and nearly fell off above a ledge, not good, decided a rest day was needed. Would recommend the route due to interesting climbing from Heart of Darkness up to the groove, and groove is lovely.

with Kev
The Grist 06/Aug/16 2nd
PaulTanton 02/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Liz
Hidden 08/Jul/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
poeter210 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Bags of atmosphere! Favourite bit was leaving Heart of Darkness, committing and exposed.

with The Spence
Curly Rich 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Peter o
MichaelGallimore 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Went right along the break then took a direct line up the corner.

Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 31/May/16 2nd
Hidden 31/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd
Lenny 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mark (Jumper)
London Luke 28/May/16 2nd
Tim_C7 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Luke Williams
ferdia 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Burton
burto 28/May/16 2nd
with ferdia
tessa teapot ??/2016 -
Rob Rocket 30/Aug/15 2nd
with Adam Ellwood
Scooter Young 30/Aug/15 2nd
Pete_Frost 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Continually absorbing climbing. The foot holds are always there if you look long enough. Diverted into this when we found a party on HoD/New Morning so I fortunately had two enormous cams to place in the break to protect the first moves upwards.

with Luke Maggs
The Grist 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 15/Aug/15 2nd
Ian Jones 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Harder for the vertically challenged and a little bold above the polished breaks.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 30/Jul/15 2nd
sparbus 16/Jul/15 2nd
with mike b
Jim Brooke 28/Jun/15 2nd O/S

brilliant! steep juggy climbing, sunshine and crashing waves

with Tom Rainbow
james1978 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 24/May/15 2nd O/S

Nice climbing, fairly soft for E1 with a massive ledge to rest on before you do the crux.

with Andy
alan rosier 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Thought this E2 5c. Since learned that I shouldn't have gone up immediately after turning the arete and shouldn't have entered the groove by pocket pulling up the steep wall. You live and learn. I wouldn't do it differently if I had the chance again though, awesome moves.

Thunderthighsontheloose 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
darcan 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with nick
nickstephens 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Darcan
PaulTanton 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt

This is such a good route. Quite easy for the grade

with Dennis Gleeson
Hidden ??/2015 -
gurumed 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Gurumed
Tubs 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Excellent. Looks harder than it is when you make the moves away from gear but holds always appear.

with Dave M
spidermonkey09 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S

The hardest E1 I've done in some time. Not obvious where to go at all and requires faith in whats above. Great moves, well worth top50 for me.

Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd dog
rd20 26/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Patrick
3 Names 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Patrick Goodwin
rd20 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Sumee
louby 24/Aug/14 2nd

I wimped out traverse was a little intimidating

chris_B 24/Aug/14 Lead
nickdonohue 16/Aug/14 Lead


climbergg 16/Aug/14 2nd
Dilwat 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Tim M 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Emma
Dizz 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with rob p
tobydunford 28/May/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Tim W 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Cat, Matthew Thomson
arthur_de_briton 04/May/14 2nd
with tim wilkinson, cat mckenna
Olli-C 02/May/14 2nd O/S

Blind and bold - tricky.

with Chi
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
Dave Reeve 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really good route...went straight up from start and then left under roof instead of traversing left along heart of darkness first - I think it makes a better route

with Tony Payne
al99 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S

In the fog/rain. Felt hard for E1

John Nuttall 02/Sep/13 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Abi Chard 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
Lessworkmoreclimbing 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Backed out of leading this, felt tired and lost confidence. Not sure what it was like, too tired to notice!

with Kev
Harri777 26/Aug/13 2nd
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Rachel S 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ted
Rob84 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Adie
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Phill Mitch 24/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with mick
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Ollie B 30/May/13 Lead O/S

Excellent fun.

with D.Campbell
Duncan Campbell 30/May/13 2nd

Tricky for sure!

with Ollie B
Haydn Jones 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with pep
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/Apr/13 Lead


with Viv
adie84 ??/2013 -
nickstephens 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
gg4419 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 2nd
Adam Booth 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S


PaulTanton 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Nice climbing. Had cold hands as it was in the shade

with Dave Taylor
dj hannaford 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Best E1 ever so nice and much variety of techniques and holds

with adam bevan
simonp ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Ed morris 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Adam Bevan
John Lewis 04/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Barra
Hidden 11/May/12 2nd O/S
Kirill 05/May/12 2nd O/S
cem 05/May/12 Lead O/S

Faffed around for ages at the crux

annetweddell 02/Sep/11 2nd

Didn't fancy leading this. Too many days of Pembroke climbing with no rest day...

with Jeff
Pete Nugent 01/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Excellent weather, great route. A "retro onsight?", I last did this route in Aug 2001. Some tough moves to get established in the groove from the arete. Delightful climbing up the groove, brillant golden rock in the afternnon sun.

with Nigel Lyle (LMC), Richard Toon
Graham Iles 28/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Stabbs
Hidden 18/Aug/11 2nd
Owen W-G 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jim
Greg Cunningham 17/Aug/11 2nd

lead sometime in 80/90s

with cockers
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd
duncan 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Very fine route, surprised I did not remember doing it previously.

Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Jessie Rushbrooke 03/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Paul D
Oliver Sherman 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Deniz Sumengen
duncana 30/Aug/10 2nd

Excellent technical climbing up face and crack

with Pippa Archer
mattnuttall 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Ian Heginbotham
Ketu 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Sensationally good!! felt confident and climbed it well, so it felt easy enough to relax for full enjoyment :D

with Rob
Cragrat Rich 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Proper classy and adventurous. Some pretty hard sections are short lived and faith in the grade pays dividends as the holds keep getting discovered on lower half. Upper section is a delight!

Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
d_meacher 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Leelogs 10/Oct/09 2nd
with Chris
just one more 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with tim b
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Jamie Goodwin 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ??/2009 AltLd
gjd 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Ronnie
Paul Bowen 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

rockfax description is a little confusing. You actually follow the traverse for 3 mts before going straight up.

Hidden 27/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd O/S
climbergg 31/Aug/08 2nd
Tim M 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Emma
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Hidden 30/Aug/07 2nd
Marti999 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
janegallwey ??/2007 2nd
drysori 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Excellent, different character to most of the routes encountered in the week. A couple of quite thin moves, and then relatively easy climbing to finish. The moves away from the traverse of HoD felt very committing.

with JenW
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead dog

hidden hold around arete..

with rampant
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
shoulders 07/Aug/05 Lead
with dai
Mark Stevenson 06/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/05 Lead
Brown 02/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Neil Ireson ?/Aug/05 Lead
with John
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad ??/2004 -
NeilGriffiths ??/2004 -
with sean and hayley
DavidR 17/Aug/03 Lead dog
with Will
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 18/Sep/01 2nd
Rock Fairy ?/Sep/01 2nd

A commiting climb. I found getting inti the corner hard.

with david
Pete Nugent ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Simon Harry
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/00 Lead
Billg ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
dickypips ??/1999 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 30/Aug/98 Lead
with Louise Pellett
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Aug/98 Lead
with Sam Dew, Simon Witcher
duncan 11/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
chris sm 14/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden ??/1997 -
michael burrows 18/Aug/96 2nd
with mark ryan
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
mikej 18/Aug/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
rob.grafton 26/Sep/93 Lead
with Bruce
andy gittins ??/1987 -
22 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set