Rockfax Description
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 5.76 May/1976

Ticklists: Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Becky's ticklist, Extreme 2018.

NickJH 01/Nov/17 2nd
with Steve W
Hidden 03/Oct/17 Lead rpt
JackSewell1997 25/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Really good climb :) almost fell on the crux

with Michael
cathymiller 18/Sep/17 2nd
with Olly
OllyDewhirst 18/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Cathy
J_Spooner 01/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Butel 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S
John Bunney 29/Aug/17 2nd
with Butel
Hannes B 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Sarah A, Charlie
Hidden 28/Aug/17 2nd
CharlieMack 28/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Sarah adkin, Hannes
Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Aug/17 2nd rpt
with Jack
Hidden 25/Aug/17 2nd
charleybaby5287 25/Aug/17 2nd
robgixer 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Charley
Charlie Zephyr Booth 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with dave ferguson
Hidden 22/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Roget 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with jon
Elizabeth Allen 07/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Luke
Luke90 07/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Jug, thread, jug, jug, thread. And repeat. Glorious! Take plenty of slings.

with Liz
Matt Harle 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Dad
DanielGyi 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Best E1 I've ever done - ridiculous positions, intimidating ab, huge jugs all the way. Awesome

MJHarle 05/Aug/17 -
with Matt
Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/17 Lead
mr mills 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with dave lyon
Dave Lyon 13/Jul/17 -
with Mills
Chrissy202 13/Jul/17 2nd dog
with Luke
duncan 10/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/17 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Jul/17 2nd rpt

Still the best E1 in the world...

penny.orr 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Don't get me wrong, this route is amazing (incredible position and line) but it didn't quite live up to the hype. I didn't think the climbing flowed all that well.

Hidden 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S
toktam 26/Jun/17 2nd
with Nigel
Hidden 26/Jun/17 Lead
CameronH 26/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Laurence Knowles
RobScarisbrick 25/Jun/17 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Felicity Eperon 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Josh Abrahams
mutt 24/Jun/17 Lead
with adam devine, sarah
Tophe 23/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Nina
Freezer 23/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with feilx
feilx 23/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Callum , Gaetan L, Niko, Jonny P
funsized 23/Jun/17 Lead O/S


with Nikolai
ninastirrup 22/Jun/17 2nd
BRoe 19/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Millard
LDudill 12/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Rich , Julian
Richard Kendrick 12/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Julian, Luke
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 07/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Windy
Hidden 06/Jun/17 Lead dnf
nigel pearson 30/May/17 Lead O/S

great climb. end of perfect long weekend

with Yoko
Nathan Chrismas 29/May/17 Lead O/S


Sam Husband 28/May/17 2nd O/S
with Ed
Stroppy 28/May/17 Lead

I can certainly see why it's popular!

eduardo 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Alternating sequences of straightforward, well protected moves followed by sit-down rests suited my mood perfectly. Classic jugfest to finish - and thread the amazing thread, just because you can.

with Mark H
amccann 27/May/17 2nd rpt
with Micki
MSchobitz 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Cool line, but not that nice to climb.

Hidden 25/May/17 2nd
Keith Swainson 23/May/17 Lead O/S

Route: 1st class type 1 fun indeed! Abseiling to the high tide start from the wrong point ... very type 2! Fully expecting some rope trickery as described in the guidebook, ab'ed down the right of Zeppelin rather than Straight Gate in error.... Waist deep water treading ensued to regain dry land! Gift of an E point for my troubles. Brilliant day.

Georgie25 23/May/17 2nd

Great route for training - lots of jugs. Some fun as well - sea = 1, radio = 0 keith had some wet pants and I did some power screaming!

Mark Stevenson 08/May/17 2nd O/S
with Chrissy Derrick
AlexRenshaw 23/Apr/17 2nd
Timothy Miller 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Pretty incredible position for the grade

julesmckim 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Steep but covered in jugs - if you haven't got one, look around some more. Great rock scenery: threads, pillars, pockets; birds jabbering in the background, bathed in sunshine and a glittering sea. Another Pembroke joy moment

benw681 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S


with Yuki
Hidden 17/Apr/17 Lead
Wendy Watthews 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Finally got the lead, sooo many threads

with Abby
aiyer 16/Apr/17 2nd
with Wendy
JoeCoxson 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

If you've not got a jug in each hand at any given moment you're not looking hard enough. Fantastic!

with JakeB.
Hidden 16/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/17 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 15/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Francis Butler
Ali D 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Si Clapham ??/2017 -
alexn ??/2017 2nd

wrong top pitch

with Rob Smart
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
megdc ??/2017 -
with FelixL
crag_monster ??/2017 Lead
with Andy
poeter210 26/Nov/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
Andrew Sloan 12/Oct/16 2nd rpt

Caught out by incoming tide; got soaked up to my thighs. Pete led whole route but rebelayed half way up due to rope drag. I'd forgotten how steep the upper section was....a brilliant route.

with pete
George_Surf 21/Sep/16 Lead

Difficult abseil in with a high Spring tide, used a wire as a deviation and then pendulum on to the ledge. Amazing route, so steep looking! Good holds and gear but tiring if you stop. Some good rests too

rachelpearce01 21/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
FredTB 04/Sep/16 2nd
markfairbank 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Anne Gumbley 02/Sep/16 2nd
Helen Gibson ?/Sep/16 Lead
with Lewis
Lenny 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Sally & Bryon
bryan61 30/Aug/16 2nd O/S


with leon, sally
Hidden 30/Aug/16 Lead
markalmack 29/Aug/16 2nd rpt
williap 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Awesome line, 5b seems reasonable to me

RichyBOYY 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

definitely up there for best e1 in the uk - it's soooooo good!

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 29/Aug/16 2nd

best e1 ever?

WB 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
jennyjen 26/Aug/16 2nd
with James
Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Stuart William 07/Aug/16 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead
mrteale 07/Aug/16 2nd
with Chris M
mikedevcole 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Francois R 06/Aug/16 Lead

5c. I hope the guidebook is wrong as it is a nice route but not fantastic. There must be better E1s in Britain! The starting crack with the limpets is fun though.

with Pok
Happy Wanderer 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Mike D
MD 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Had wanted to climb this for a while, was as good as I hoped for. The best climb in Britain, probably not but it's a really good climb.

with Jo
Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Kris2fa 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First E1! Good stuff

with Adam24B
Adam24B 08/Jul/16 2nd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
andybirtwistle 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

32+years since I last led it.A contender for best E1 in Wales

with Sue Birtwistle
Lakesben 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
John Bunney 04/Jul/16 Lead

Awesome route. Easy to go off route and head rightwards under final overlap, press on up through the massive holds!

with Charlie
charlietorrance 04/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Awesome route, I think its a bit more special than the face climbing on the Strait Gate. E1 for the steepness/ intimidation, but the climbing isn't hard.

with Ed Green
Ash Sayers ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Put in a belay at top 1/3 of the Route, Paddy led last part

deklan ?/Jul/16 2nd
with louis
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead
pdrums777 17/Jun/16 AltLd G/U

Seconded p1 lead p2. Awesome route! Little polished in some places but we'll protected. felt east for an E1. Wish I'd gone left at the exit. Next time.

with Gareth (trev)
C May 16/Jun/16 2nd O/S

more like HVS

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 16/Jun/16 Lead O/S

All the fun. Looks unlikely at first but it's a romp.

with C May
dom94 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
amccann 09/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Dom
Moritz L 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Dan0Me 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
CRead 05/Jun/16 2nd

Ben's first E1!

Hidden 04/Jun/16 2nd
therat ?/Jun/16 -
Droyd 29/May/16 Lead O/S

The best route I have ever done

with Ian
Alex Whitmore 28/May/16 2nd O/S
hutchay 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Matt Hutch, Alex Whitmore
tim.fairhall 28/May/16 Lead O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 28/May/16 2nd
with Tim
Andy England 22/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
GPN 09/May/16 Lead O/S
with Trad Exchange
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead rpt
Mowglee 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Traversed into the refugee belay after abseiling into the high tide start of Strait Gate

tessa teapot ??/2016 -
AnitaClimb 01/Nov/15 2nd dog

Slipped off after the second overhang. Great route!

with Francis, Jennie, Spooner , Sammy
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 10/Oct/15 2nd rpt

Even better than I remembered.

with Joe Harris
FelixPeterken 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely awesome

with AndrewP
AndrewP 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Superb route. Still trying to think of a better HVS or E1 and haven't thought of one yet. Would be a good choice for a first E1.

Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
gurumed 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S


with Brian H
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead
cdpuk 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/15 2nd O/S
poeter210 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with argentinian machine
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
southern_smit 18/Sep/15 Lead

great climbing

Hidden 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Finally managed to get on it after years of finding an in-situ team whenever I tried. Perfect conditions on the bank holiday Monday and only 1 other team on the entire crag. Worth every bit of the high-tide faff we had to get to the base.

with Rachel
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Palindrome 30/Aug/15 2nd dog

Struggled on the big roof...

jon_gill1 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

climbed in the wet, Fantastic route!!!! Mega jugs on second half!

with chris Lyness
Richard Kendrick 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Nick Loc
harry_lewis 17/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Dawn_K_B 17/Aug/15 Lead β

On Pete's gear as we both wanted to lead it. Great climbing, really varied and just hard/sustained enough to get E1.

amccann 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
pete1993 17/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Nothing too hard just intimidating

with Dawn
pete1993 17/Aug/15 2nd rpt

To take the gear out

with Dawn
casey johns 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt


with Jimmy smith, luke glaister
luke glaister 16/Aug/15 2nd rpt

Well in kc. Your first e1 and done in style. I love this route. Great gear And holds all the way through some steep ass terrain. Brilliant.

Chris Murray 12/Aug/15 2nd

Awesome. As ever.

DanChad 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

I don't know about Britain, but it's the best E1 I've ever done!

benkelsey 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S

4 stars for position, didn't think the climbing flowed too well though

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S
dicky79 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Nicholson
aiyer 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

First E1 OS! So chuffed. Excellent climb, felt great on it! With Rich and Dave

NickST 02/Aug/15 2nd
callumbtaylor 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S

E5 territory but at sick.

Avon Man 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Slightly disappointing given all the hype. Maybe it was the fact that the route is escapable at the top and you can have a siesta halfway up.

with Derek
sparbus 17/Jul/15 Lead
with mike b
Hidden 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Dan724 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Dan Ely
LJC 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Greg
tmawer 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt


with Bram
BTphonehome 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Big route, big holds, big atmosphere. Brilliant. Cheers to Luca and Greg for holding on whilst we used your abseil into the abyss.

with Tony
M_Robinson 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Adam24B 16/Jun/15 2nd rpt
james1978 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
Cheese Monkey 06/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Ric E
roberto18 28/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Ian MK 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Maykova 25/May/15 2nd
with Ian
Dunx 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Jake Thompsett
Cheese Monkey 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ric E
Duncan Campbell 23/May/15 2nd rpt
martinlevya82 23/May/15 2nd O/S
Flavio 22/May/15 Lead O/S

Super, great atmosphere with the fog.

admackie 12/May/15 Lead O/S


with andy
Hidden 12/May/15 2nd
casey johns 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
luke glaister 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

3***s are nailed on this route. Great gear great holds. Big moves. Always a rest and gear but steep enough to not mess around on. Are first visit to the area and it's become a favorite. X

Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Ian1987 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
markalmack 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

pretty fucking good!

with ian
Wil Treasure 04/Apr/15 2nd
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Phil Baxter, Alex Twist
Hidden ?/Apr/15 -
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dmorgan27 ?/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
gingernick ??/2015 Lead

Again. Brilliant climbing

with Darrell
duncandarnell 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with jord smith
manxclare 24/Sep/14 2nd
with jon22
John sealey 24/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd dnf
nathanlee 15/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 10/Sep/14 Lead

Finally! Unbelievable route, massive holds. Will never forget pulling over the roof on those massive buckets for holds. Brilliant!

Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
philhilo 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Looked at drizzle for some time before we commited. Had to move off bottom ledge as tide coming in faaaast... Epic jug fest.

with Helen E
arthur_de_briton 23/Aug/14 Lead
with cat mckenna
AdamCB 19/Aug/14 2nd
Duncan Campbell 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

had wanted to do zeppelin but it was busy so escaped up this, not often you get to escape up one of the best rock climbs in the country. Stunning and intimidating.

mynyddresident 15/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with KP
Steven Carter 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Adam24B ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd β
jgordon75 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
owain86 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Will
wi11 29/Jul/14 2nd β
hazeysunshine 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alex
brices 26/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Mike
elCapitano 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very good. But thought 'The Arrow' was better at E1.

with Coatesy
Richard P Coates 22/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
adam 24 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Outrageous line for an E1

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead dog
Coops_13 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Patrick Hill 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Dan Geh 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Paddy, Will
chappers909 05/Jun/14 2nd
Ramon Marin 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Did it again coaching Viki on her first trad weekend

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 26/May/14 Lead O/S

did it with a minimal rack as we did it to exit after my fail on Klingon, so added to the spice. Amazing route

Hidden 25/May/14 2nd
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead rpt
Ed morris 21/May/14 2nd rpt
with stefan
Stefan_Morris 21/May/14 Lead O/S
jonleighton 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/14 2nd
The Reaper 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
frank mckenna 04/May/14 -
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead
Tom Livingstone 20/Apr/14 2nd β
with John Cook
Brannock 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

The biggest holds in Britain? Great line, great climbing, never to hard, never to easy, brilliant.

Maken 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb!

SJS 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Nick
Nick Russell 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, hard work. Started at the refuge belay due to incoming tide.

Slick 12/Apr/14 2nd

Thuggy. Spent ages on left arm trying to take some gear out - didn't really recover all weekend! Really nice route, although was a little damp in places.

Jonny Nick 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Kirill 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Really really good. Sustained, varied and looks great.

Sardien 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Superhappy with this, what a climb what a day! Lots of deserted birdsnests all over the route

Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
gjd 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ronnie
Hidden 23/Sep/13 2nd
RCrockford 20/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Took a whipper off crux, busted ankle.

with Graham
Alex the Alex 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Such a good route! Monkeyed around on the overhang. Looking down is impressive/dizzying.

Andrew Wilson 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pretty cool..

with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
JBO 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S


UnkArl 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
rd20 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rachel Somerville
Rachel S 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S

brilliant jug fest with at least 2 hands off rests.

with Robert
twoplates 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Josh, Neil MacKay
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
Justin T 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sue
Lessworkmoreclimbing 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Seconded many years ago so felt like onsight! Had been meaning to do this climb for years. Felt great. Didn't remember doing the initial crack upto the sloping ledge before - found it a challenge to get off the ground, involving bridging on a limpet which dropped off when I took my foot off it, sorry limpet!

with Kev
Steeve 07/Aug/13 Lead dnf
TomMorgan 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
james.slater 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic and sustained! The climbing is incredibly rewarding and interesting! Got very pumped and it took me a while to lead this beast!

JonathanJones 29/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 29/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dilwat 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue 27/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
The Grist 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
asmith37 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Grant
brices 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Such good positions for the grade

with Sash
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd β
joese7en ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
dominic lee 28/Jun/13 2nd
with andy elliot
Jake Young 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
tommytuffa 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Libby
Hidden 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Andrew1 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Hulda
Hulda 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Andi
r_o_b_h2 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
guy757 05/Jun/13 -
RachelP 04/Jun/13 2nd
andy dunn 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with J
Chi Cheng 02/May/13 2nd rpt
with Adam Knightly
Rachel Slater 02/May/13 2nd rpt
Olli-C 02/May/13 Lead O/S
nicolat ?/May/13 2nd
with James Mitchell
VPJB ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd
Alan100 20/Oct/12 Lead

Great route. Found the first half harder than it looked and was glad to have a sit down on the ledge between bulges. Second bulge felt nicely exposed with proper 3 dimensional climbing.

Ed morris 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Dickon
nickstephens 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
gg4419 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Dangerous Dave 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Dave O
dave o 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 18/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Vertical side wall means you don't really ave to climb any steep stuff, except that bulge...

with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex ?/Sep/12 2nd
Cardi 30/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tom R
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
stephenarnold 11/Aug/12 2nd dog

Hard and very steep wasn't strong enough for sustained steep climbing!

Rosea Day ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Westy
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Binder 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Dizz 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Finished on HVS as this is the obvious line - still excellent, looking forward to returning for other finish(es!

mike lawrence? 09/Jul/12 Lead
with James the Navigator
pembrokeshirecaver 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with John Bennetts
jiggerypokery 02/Jun/12 AltLd dog

Stood on a shell and decked out! had to lower off and set up a belay on the ledge to avoid the tide. epic

Alex Munnery 23/May/12 AltLd dnf

finished on the HVS to the right of Rock Idol.

with NathanW
CragDog 06/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
NathanW ?/May/12 AltLd

Finished on hvs next door.

pembrokeshirecaver 24/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Laybacked the entire crux roof, felt very committing. Aparently there is a jug out right which allows easier moves.

with Martin
sara n 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Lovely climb! Generous E1, excellent gear - take LOTS of threads and don't be intimidate by the view when standing at the bottom.

with Karl Blanchet
Hardcore Pat 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
Hidden 08/Apr/12 2nd
Dean177 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
melonmike 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with liam brown
Chi Cheng 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

awesome route :)

pie_eater_pete 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Pippa 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tink
Adam Coles ?/Apr/12 Lead
with ben1987
bwestwood ?/Apr/12 2nd
ben1987 ?/Apr/12 -
esther ?/Apr/12 Lead
stvredmond 26/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
Nick1812P 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
pete1993 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
JRae 11/Mar/12 Lead

After paul had a massive whipper.

with Paul M
pmurdy 11/Mar/12 2nd RP

Took a huge whipper on lead after being sent the wrong way at the crux. Found it easier when on second and going the right way!

with Jonny Reay
Jake Young 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Adam Coles ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
al99 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Luke Hodson
lukehodson 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S


Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Daniel Wicks 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Oli
Wil.Hooke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Had to traverse out at the second roof to retrieve gear but got back without any problems (just a bit of pump)

with Dan Wicks, Olly
cat22 29/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Swotson 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Amazing fun

with Ian Athroll
annetweddell 31/Aug/11 2nd
with Jeff
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Sebastien Gastaud 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
mariannekhoo 29/Aug/11 2nd dog

Had to rest on the rope halfway up as Sebastien had the rope on either side of a bulge, couldn't hear me yelling and I couldn't move in either direction up the overhang!

Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Liam Byrne
givemetea 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ann Chong
Joris.Roulleau 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fred_Richard 28/Aug/11 Lead RP

Ran out of steam at half way on this. Super steep and long. My Hardest lead so far.

with bill turner
manwithacam 28/Aug/11 2nd

sprinted up this as fast as my little hands would carry me, after hanging around too long on Joyous Gard.

with Joris
Pete Nugent 27/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Excellent climbing! You can get a hands off rest prior to the second overhang.

with Pete Blackburne (Blacky)
mike mo 26/Aug/11 2nd rpt
John Tanner 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Didn't think it was worth the hype! Not a particularly strong line. I suppose the gradient is novel, but there's lots of rests so not too sustained. Looking forward to trying Mother Carey's other offerings

with Oli Brend
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
owb106 26/Aug/11 2nd dog

Had to hang on the rope to remove a jammed nut.

JRae 22/Aug/11 Lead
CRiddiford 22/Aug/11 Lead dog

got pumped at the steep bit and then watched it go dark...!

with Mark
mark20 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S

In the dark without headtorch

Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead
Ollie B 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not as good as the guide hypes it up to be. Nice positions.

with L.Postlewaith
shoulders 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with dai
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Absolute Grease-fest! Still what a route! MASSIVE holds all the way! Uber-classic!

ablackett 26/Jul/11 -

Style of ascent? None. Too hard for me.

with Jonny
Ian Jones 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Definitive HVS. Very good.

with Roger Benton
jonny taylor 26/Jul/11 Lead dog

Struggled with the steepness - slabs are more my thing! Had to rest before working out the crux

with Andy B
C coldwell-storry 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with rob lay
andy dunn 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Tom
3kidsandanorton 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Pete Templar
teflonpete 03/Jul/11 Lead β

Perfect conditions if not a little too warm, bottom corner was bone dry and uber grippy. Made good use of the natural rests. No 'hard' individual moves on it and the holds and gear are bomber but it keeps on going and going, fantastic route.

with Barry
James Oswald 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

With Jon Stewart. Probably the equal best route I've ever done - very scary below the roof and intimidating. Ultimately very easy and pretty well protected. A very very exciting lead. Dropped a wire into the sea after the crux and got very wet getting it... Awesome!

Glyn 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Luke, Barni
barni 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with luke, Glyn
Luke Brooks 30/Jun/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson, Barni
Dave Foster 22/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Best route in the world.

with Jim
vertically_challenged 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

i love big jugs!! :D

robin_hackney 20/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Lenny 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with John
mountain.martin 04/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Roger Cruse 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Kris
Drew M ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Sheridan
Aaron Lines 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with alan, stu
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
tobydunford 10/Apr/11 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Sgt. Vest 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

It's the fusion pro glide challenge. WOOH. Hello buddy.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2011 -
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Lead
PAJames ??/2011 -
richgibson ??/2011 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
HowieB ??/2011 2nd
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead β
andy dunn 12/Sep/10 2nd
with J
richardr 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd
sam820 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First roof was wet so climbed around on the face making crux move more like 5b

with Shivertron
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
mattnuttall 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with Matthew Tink Taylor
Owen Pinch 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
LoopyLou 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant fun, steep but on great holds and all the moves are readable. Nut slots not obvious if you are not familiar with Pembroke rock but cams work fine and there are some bomber threads that give instant relaxation . Alison on second.

RagingPuffin 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Al
catblack 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not quiet the best E1(over hyped?), but still very good and an impressive line for e1

Andrew Barker 14/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Jonny M 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Totally awesome. Felt pretty soft, but it goes on forever.

with Jon
andy dunn 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome line - nicely sustained but straightforward climbing on "the bigest holds in the universe" - loads of absolutely bomber gear - A great route and well worth 3*

with Alan
Rich Guest 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome to look at and equally awesome to climb. Epic and crucial climbing career material. Almost certainly 5b at the short roof leftwards (2nd & main crux). I will remember this ascent forever... So will my wife Jenny, (in a nice way I hope!!).

Hidden 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
misskebab ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Martin Allen, Edd Reed
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead
Paul Bowen 27/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Bethan O'keeffe
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Pretty scary seconding on one half rope

AJM 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great route, steep juggy fun.

Hidden 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S
adam coxsell 09/Jun/10 2nd

Had a nightmare on this,spent 4 hours at the bottom watching the tide slowly coming to get me!

with Gareth
gnc760 09/Jun/10 Lead
with Cocky
conorjclarke 09/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Did the cruxes and fell from the last couple moves of the traverse ... not too pleased about that. Came halfway down the route and landed in front of joyous guard. Finished up that.

with adam coxsell
Katya 31/May/10 2nd dog
with Bryony
rachcrewe 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route for a first E1. So much gear I ran out of draws and accepted a delivery of spares from Ben Jones on the next route. Is this cheating?!

Bry 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Kat
Hidden 04/May/10 2nd
irish paul 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd rpt
theotherpetehill 02/May/10 Lead O/S


Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Sophie Nunn 18/Apr/10 Lead

1 Rest

daniel hobbs ?/Apr/10 Lead

great adventure mixed easy climbing.

matt.woodfield 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
JulesV ??/2010 2nd
Jessie Rushbrooke 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with GF
ian d f 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Really nice route. good threads

with Pete H
Hidden 07/Sep/09 2nd rpt
spidey 29/Aug/09 2nd
jimbonfire 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Must be one of the best E1s in the country, did feel hard...

Skinny Kin 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant line. Jug fest all the way up. There's a hand traverse before the final overhang, which is confusing and not even on other route but an escape to Joyous Gard. E1 5a doesn't equate to poor gear as the grade suggests. Hard HVS or soft E1 I would say.

Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 26/Jul/09 2nd
haydng 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Wet start but amazing route.

with Rob
Shauna 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

What a brilliant route...

with Jules
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
brockers 26/May/09 Lead

Superb climb

with Guido
Wil Treasure 25/May/09 2nd
Hidden 25/May/09 -
chiverstom 25/May/09 Lead O/S
steve.warrington 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Simpson
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd
going going gone ?/May/09 Lead

very adventures and awesome route

davesimpson ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with olly buxton
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 2nd
mynyddresident ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
PenJD 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Another perfect day with blue sky and sunshine. Felt intimidated going down the ab to do this route but when you see the line...bloomin fantastic. Great moves on huge, no enormous holds in an out-there position, never pumpy as there are rests all the way and more threads than you'd believe if you hadn't seen them.

thomasadixon 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Just superb.

Ybot Htulk 31/Aug/08 2nd
with Tom Dixon
Cowflinger 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Dai Morris
mikeshewring 30/Aug/08 2nd β
Andrew Sloan 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Castleclimber 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Alastair
lukea 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

spectacular - incredible positions and crazy e5 steepness, but some of the biggest holds (and threads) in the world. bridge pump from stemming out over the void - amazing

with dan
Bob M 13/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 24/May/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Owen W-G 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gav
Richard Horn 18/May/08 Lead O/S
spacey 02/May/08 2nd O/S
with Clive
Hidden 15/Apr/08 2nd O/S
chris wyatt 29/Mar/08 Lead rpt
with John Bullock
janegallwey ??/2008 2nd
Adam Booth ??/2008 Lead O/S

?what year

Fat Tim 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
stuwelly85 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Bella 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Lucy Ham
Tim Steward 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
Paz 16/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with TS
Hidden 07/Jun/07 2nd O/S
centurion05 ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with chris thorne
featuresforfeet 06/May/07 AltLd RP

Cocked up the last overhang and took 30 foot fall back down most of the route. Belayed below the small cave and cleanly followed afterwards. Probably HVS if done in such an entertaining fashion.

with Team Ginger
cem 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Overhyped and overrated but still a very good route

Hidden 04/May/07 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/May/07 Lead rpt
with Rob
willjones ??/2007 Lead O/S
with nik goile
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
michael burrows 07/Sep/06 2nd

and john norman,superb route

Hidden 29/Aug/06 2nd O/S
GeckoGeek 26/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Arin
stuwelly85 07/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Paul Walters
waltersp ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

great climb! ran out of quickdraws (had 11), SO much gear..lots of threads too!

with Stu
frost ?/Aug/06 Lead
with D Garry
david morse ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with rampant
chris j 02/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Ben Bradford
dan gibson 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Hidden 27/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 12/Jun/06 2nd
with Tom Pascall
Paz 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with AR
Boxy 29/May/06 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 12/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/06 Lead O/S
Bux ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Awesome line. Good holds but quite strenuous

with Mike
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
nathanmanc ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2006 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
hal ?/Nov/05 -
Kyuzo ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions - very low tide so could scramble over to start - super position especially looking back down the rope to the second.

with Tony Payne
Brown 01/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
bronsonite 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Johnny McMillen
ferdia 16/Jan/05 2nd
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Chad123 ??/2005 -
with Huw
Ratfeeder 07/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Phil
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/04 Lead dog

One rest

Andrew Barker ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Claudia Whitcombe
Steve Crowe 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with KM
Ally Smith ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Dave Emms
Billg ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/03 Lead
LC ?/May/03 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Lun
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
cornishben ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/01 2nd O/S

Pure bloody fantastic

with Viv
phardman 25/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
ellis ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Chris Ranner
NickJH ?/Apr/01 Lead O/S
jgordon75 ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Tim Jepson
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
Hidden ??/2001 -
DubyaJamesDubya 18/Jun/00 Lead O/S


with Trevor Stevens, Adrian Casey
Hidden ?/Apr/00 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
dickypips ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Steve James
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead

Bring lots of spare gear to set up the absail. Needs confidence from the second!

with Katharine Pemberton
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Chris Murray ?/Aug/99 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden 14/Jul/99 2nd β
nickdonohue 02/May/99 Lead

One of the best E1s ever

with James Edwards
WB 01/May/99 Lead O/S

and with john the knife

with Guy
duncan 09/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
nige pacer 05/Dec/98 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Aug/98 2nd
Woody63 12/Aug/98 -
with Dave ;
Hidden 12/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Dave Rumney ??/1998 -
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 22/Aug/97 2nd O/S
atch ?/May/97 Lead
NeilGriffiths 20/Oct/96 -
with Paul Tucker
craig h 13/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
Colin Edwards ?/Aug/96 2nd
with KEVIN TRICKEY, Simon Gough Brown
Steve Clegg 08/Oct/95 Lead
with Mrs C
Colin Edwards 24/Aug/95 2nd
with Simon Gough Brown
akamini ?/Jun/95 2nd
mikej 25/May/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/93 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1992 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
mikej 29/May/91 2nd
with Mike Byles
Eduardo Martinez ??/1991 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 13/Nov/89 2nd
with Ernie Horrocks
Hidden 13/Sep/89 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/89 Lead
Andy Say 02/Jun/89 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ?/Apr/89 Lead
Mike Owen 17/Sep/88 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
RichardMc 29/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Daphne Pritchard
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 Lead
with vic radvills
AlexRenshaw 16/Jul/88 Lead
with Nick Hinchliffe
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
PaulTanton ?/Apr/87 2nd
with Bobby Hastings
steve taylor ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Nicky Beresford
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1987 -
Derek Furze ??/1987 Lead
with Thorney
Derek Furze ??/1987 Lead
with Thorney
Martin Bennett 23/Jul/86 -
with RA
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
andybirtwistle 26/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ernie Greenwood
Mark Kemball 09/Sep/82 Lead
with Steve Finch
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
tapley 25/May/81 2nd
with John Sumner
Dave Musgrove 17/Apr/81 Lead
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 20/Sep/80 Lead
neilh ?/Apr/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 134
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 129
Votes cast 123
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set