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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

36m.

Rockfax Description
A good route which uses the start of Eight Gauge to gain the fine crack to the left of Brazen Buttress. Climb the pillar on the front right-hand side of the through cave, then step right onto a ramp (as for Eight Gauge). Follow the ramp to a crack in the smooth wall. Climb the crack and another crack on the right until the wall blanks out above a jug. Make a tricky move up and left to easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead 25/Mar/1978.

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User Date Notes
Tall Oak 20 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Yet another downgrade. Poxy guide books!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yet another downgrade. Poxy guide books!
psicobloc 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c.
Justin Shiels 3 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes.

Logged Ascents

217 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 43
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heart of Darkness/New Morning

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mowing Word)

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