Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A good route which uses the start of Eight Gauge to gain the fine crack to the left of Brazen Buttress. Climb the pillar on the front right-hand side of the through cave, then step right onto a ramp (as for Eight Gauge). Follow the ramp to a crack in the smooth wall. Climb the crack and another crack on the right until the wall blanks out above a jug. Make a tricky move up and left to easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. R.Harrison, R.Broomhead 25/Mar/1978.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Yet another downgrade. Poxy guide books! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yet another downgrade. Poxy guide books! |
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psicobloc | 17 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: We must have done different routes, thought this was a stunning line, excellent climbing, probably e2 5c. |
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Justin Shiels | 3 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Clearly not done often! Excellent to the jug. I then went left and ended up in a dangerous rubble filled chimney. Then jibbered up its right arete. I suggest you don't do this! Still don't understand where it goes. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mowing Word)