Rockfax Description
A good route which uses the start of Eight Gauge to gain the fine crack to the left of Brazen Buttress. Climb the pillar on the front right-hand side of the through cave, then step right onto a ramp (as for Eight Gauge). Follow the ramp to a crack in the smooth wall. Climb the crack and another crack on the right until the wall blanks out above a jug. Make a tricky move up and left to easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison 25.3.78 25/Mar/1978

Hidden 25/Aug/17 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with dave ferguson
gingernick 18/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Great climbing

with Darrell
dmorgan27 18/Jul/17 2nd

Lovely climbing until the final powerful crimpy pull.

Wendy 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Gaz
gazhbo 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
LDudill 14/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Rich , Julian
Richard Kendrick 13/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Luke, Julian
Kevster 01/May/17 Lead O/S
Mark Pickrell 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Dick
Hidden 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
luke glaister 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant. The start was greasy but good gear and lovely moves around the overhang. Then fire up the crack. Good gear all the way till 3 or so meters from the top. I built a bomb shelter and went for it. Pulled a lump off but had good feet and other hand was solid. Few... really pleased and 2 **s from me.

Cheese Monkey 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Yeh my turn to go the wrong way.

just one more 14/Sep/16 2nd

Nice,great rock

Alison Cairns 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Rachel S 04/Aug/16 2nd
with Alison
Lakesben 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
ian d f 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
pearson9596 03/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 28/May/16 2nd
The Grist 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Dizz 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with EJ
M_Robinson 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Adam24B 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
james1978 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with pam
VPJB 06/Jun/15 -
Tony Holdsworth 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with martin haworth
andy_pemberton 26/May/15 Lead

The chalked holds at the top that everyone seemed to be using went a different direction to the Rockfax topo, not up and left from the jug, but first right into the next crackline, then up and left at the top much higher.

with Dave Marshall
Martin Haworth 26/May/15 Lead O/S
with Tony
Duncan Campbell 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 23/May/15 2nd β

roof was fine, tough and thin move up top though I suspect I am just spooked out by this wall in general. Good lead by Stads

with Jo Stadden
bigie bob 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 23/May/15 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice enough despite a bit of suspect rock. Some fiddly gear and tricky moves, easy E2.

with Rachel
billb ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Ollie B 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Robyn
nuts and bolts ?/Sep/14 -
Dean Russell 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mike Tutt 18/Apr/14 2nd
Cardi 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Very nice

with Nik G
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
rd20 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rachel Somerville
Rachel S 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Quite pumpy climbing. Brilliant route, awesome jug pulling to get onto the pinnacle then wall climbing to the top. Crimpy crux.

with Robert
Lessworkmoreclimbing 07/Aug/13 2nd

Nice route. Could have led it.

Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dominic lee 28/Jun/13 2nd
with andy elliot
Hidden 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Vassen
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with pep
duncan 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd
jcw ??/2013 -
Neil Morbey 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with John Eanes
gjd 24/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mark V
Ed Babs 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Good route to do at high tide.

with AlexD
AlexD 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
pembrokeshirecaver 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Spent the whole route nervously awaiting the hard move. It never came.

tommytuffa 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Might be E2 in new guide!! Great route

with edd
James Marshall 23/Jul/12 2nd
with Pete Shepherd
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
david morse 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Josh,Nath+Mikey
melonmike 12/Apr/12 2nd O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
just one more 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Probably as hard as Brazen and Sunsmoke.Good hidden sidepull on crux before jugs.

with Svenn G
Dave Rumney 29/Aug/11 Lead
with Phil Moore
Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Phil PBC 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
Hidden 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S
DanH9883 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Lee
andy dunn 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic start, followed by some good climbing. Hung around on the jugs for some time whilst I figured out the crux moves. Awesome bouldery finish 30m up the route.

with J
tobydunford 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
richardr 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ed morris 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fantasic climb with a cool start followed by an amazing crack with the crux right at the top. The top is fine if you find the crimp quickly.

with Martin
clipskipper 21/May/10 Lead O/S
with Davey Boy
spacey 17/May/10 Lead O/S
Paul Evans 17/May/10 2nd
with spacey
Pown 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/09 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/09 Lead

Puzzling climb. The normal start is more like E3. Coming in from Brazen Buttress makes a much better E1 5c, finishing up the crux of Tempest.

khawk 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
datoon 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with K
Hidden 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 29/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with John Bullock
feilx 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd
feilx 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with martina
tom.e 30/May/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
pete johnson 02/Sep/05 Lead
with Lun
Hidden 28/May/03 Lead O/S
LC ?/May/03 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Lun
Hidden 01/Aug/00 Lead
Steve Long ??/1998 -
Hidden ?/Jun/92 AltLd
AlexRenshaw 14/Jan/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
Steve Crowe 01/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Billg 23/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Steve Lewis 20/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
wynaptomos ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 04/Jun/86 -
with Perric Crellin
Paul Clarke ??/1985 -
with LUMC, FMC
Dave Turnbull ?/Apr/84 Lead
AlexRenshaw ??/1983 2nd
with Ted Lister, John Arran
Hidden 20/Sep/80 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/1980 Lead
with Gibby
Hidden 13/Apr/79 2nd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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