Rockfax Description
A good diagonal line leading to a fine finish. Start below the chimney of Shadrach.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb up left over ledges to a small short right-facing groove. Climb the groove to where it becomes a massive flake and follow it left to a small corner. Climb up this and then move left to gain a rib which leads to a small ledge. Either belay here or arrange gear and move left to a tree.
2) 4c, 25m. Move up and left to the corner, bridge up for 3m to a crack and then pull up and right onto a ledge. Move up steep rock on good holds, stepping left onto a sloping ledge below a final rib. Climb this direct to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1 4b 30m From the base of Shadrach chimney, go up and left to a scoop. Move left and hand traverse a flake to gain a corner on the left. Climbs this and the rib on the left to the large ledge.
P2 4c 24m Go up diagonally right, then pull leftwards through an overlap to a narrow ledge. Traverse left to a rib and climb this to the top. © ROCKFAX
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , AMC Uni Ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , BSR multipitch routes , Bwlch Y Moch Starred VS Challenge 2024 , 2025 January NW Trip
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dan 85 | 3 Aug |
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βeta: Huge wobbly block on the second pitch. It is the top block just before you move left to the small ledge below the small roof (where the route is shared with Meshach). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Huge wobbly block on the second pitch. It is the top block just before you move left to the small ledge below the small roof (where the route is shared with Meshach). |
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| Swanage luvver | 11 May |
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βeta: My 50mtr ropes didn’t reach the ground from the Ab point although the Rockfax guide does say 50mtrs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My 50mtr ropes didn’t reach the ground from the Ab point although the Rockfax guide does say 50mtrs. |
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| Butty | 17 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Good route. P1 is steady away with some nice exposure. P2 was steep with a couple of tricky moves which felt high in the grade but has hero gear! ** | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route. P1 is steady away with some nice exposure. P2 was steep with a couple of tricky moves which felt high in the grade but has hero gear! ** |
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| Mike Hood | 11 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Led pitch 2 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led pitch 2 |
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| Jack Doyle | 14 May, 2020 |
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βeta: VS climbing with 2clients on MCI training | βeta? | |
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βeta: VS climbing with 2clients on MCI training |
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| rickeden | 1 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Lead the last pitch only as I didn’t start the first pitch correctly and I ended up doing the first pitch of Meshach instead | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead the last pitch only as I didn’t start the first pitch correctly and I ended up doing the first pitch of Meshach instead |
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| iainJ | 29 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The belay is directly under the loose block, probably shouldn't be climbed until it's sorted Flakes on p1 sound exceptionally hollow! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The belay is directly under the loose block, probably shouldn't be climbed until it's sorted Flakes on p1 sound exceptionally hollow! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Rainy Day Women
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Y Castell)