Rockfax Description
The right-hand Slip is even more technical.
1) 5c, 35m. As for Leg Slip but move right at the top of the first groove below the roof to a ledge at the base of the beautiful upper groove. Climb this with sustained interest to a good ledge, either taking the blank groove direct, or by moving out onto the arete.
2) 4b, 12m. Easier climbing leads up the arete and rough ground to a tree belay. Abseil off. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Stared Tremadog E1's, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

Hidden 07/Aug/17 2nd
wi11 06/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
George_Surf 03/Aug/17 Lead rpt

first groove is quite technical but ok, the second groove quite a bit harder with fiddly micro wires protecting. the peg is knackered its about to snap. i bridged the jugs out left and didnt use the groove high up. high feet and you can balance on to the ledge. finished up the leg break finish

rachelpearce01 03/Aug/17 2nd O/S
neal 30/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1. Move right under overhang easier that it looks. Superb moves up the groove before the belay. All v well protected with wires. Climbed out in the rain, would have been better to ab from tree on 2nd pitch.

with Toby K
JamesWilliams 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Probably the most technical bridging I've ever done

with Rose, Arthur Milr
tprebs 21/May/17 2nd O/S

tricky groove but super safe

with Darren
shed_hed 21/May/17 Lead O/S

Led in a single pitch. Seriously technical but well protected climbing up the groove.

Brannock 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Hard, sustained tough slab and corner moves all the way

andybirtwistle ??/2017 -
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
jezb1 29/Dec/16 Lead

P1 is brilliant, the traverse under the roof is good fun, and the groove gets you thinking! Felt more E2 5c to me.

Hidden 18/Sep/16 AltLd
MichaelGallimore 21/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
George_Surf 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Moves under the roof are fine when you commit. Upped groove gets very thin, especially difficult by the peg when there are no holds. Safe With small wires/offsets. Thought I was going to come off

Pinguville 21/Jul/16 AltLd

hard going climb but great technical stuff. moving up the groove was steady then on to a fantastic traverse under the roof , think the hard parts done , and it only gets worse , top crux involved bridging and smearing , with high legs , and a lot of chuffing to get a small stuck wire out . i led p.2 which was a breeze compared to p1

with George
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Found easier this time

JackM92 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Hardest E1 I've been on by a distance, the upper groove is very sustained. Lots of small wires protect it al nicely.

Hidden 11/Jun/16 2nd dog
frost 18/May/16 2nd
Dave Almond 18/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/16 2nd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
joedean ??/2016 Lead O/S

Fantastic and pretty well sustained. Fair for the grade. I thought it was a bit fruity for a 5b- turns out I get left and right mixed up and didn't do leg slip...

Hannes B 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Alter Schwede! E1?

with Neil C
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead rpt
jacob shieldhouse hadley 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S
brockers 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Me P1 and JR P2. Pretty consistently hard throughout from under the roof! a great route though!

ripper 25/Jul/15 AltLd

good lead from Jon - this was proper tenuous all the way

dicky79 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Nicholson
Mark Warnett ?/Jul/15 Lead dog

thought this nails. went straight up groove and rope got profoundly stuck resulting in flapping and lowering on other rope. second time went back up groove and still thoughts nails, before discovering the actual crux! and I thought the gear was fiddly. maybe I was just tired!

Pete_Frost 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S

P1 only as second couldn't follow. Tricky and technical but not strenuous. Had to go right onto arête to reach the belay ledge as the groove was too polished!

with Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 29/Jun/15 2nd dnf
mynyddresident 30/May/15 AltLd
with KP
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
danmullett ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Darron ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
kenneM 28/Sep/14 Lead

Moved right onto the arête on final curve which turned out to be hard! Probably better to stick to the curve I think - good route and the traverse under the overhang is simply excellent.

with Phil, Will Taylor
wynaptomos 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
lanky 01/Sep/14 AltLd
with Sharpey
bencole 21/Aug/14 2nd
climberchristy 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Excellent line. Technically tough for 5c especially as head right on traverse and then topping out the following groove. Gear good but deserves E2 as moves hard.

with bencole
John sealey 15/Aug/14 AltLd
with Dave Holland
Owen W-G 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Led main pitch, nails hard for E1 but good gear every two feet

with Paul
Sardien 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Tried to lead but hangover-head failed to commit to the traverse (I also missed some high gear to protect it from above). Thankfully Helena took over and I seconded the main pitch instead. Hard but cool moves

with Helena Robinson
davenev 18/Jul/14 -
with luke
Mr Tickle 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Took me a while to figure out that top move! But when committed it felt fine. Great route.

with davenev
Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
DanielGyi 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Alfie Maun, Michael Robinson
M_Robinson 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Alfie Maun 09/Mar/14 2nd
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Cant remember so long ago
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
redjerry 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
will9911 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Marissa
dan gibson 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 24/Jul/13 2nd

hard!! tried bridging the top but slipped, did some technical moves up on the right which worked for me.

with dan
danp 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
mr mills 08/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with paul simkiss
R0bbie 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Matt Crawford
Kevster 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Will T
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Stone Muppet 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Got rope stuck, despite precautions, so had to down climb hanging groove to sort it. Still onsight!

with ah
James Oakes 25/May/13 Lead O/S

In one pitch.

with Andy Hall, Tim Slater
tsl42 25/May/13 2nd O/S
with James Oakes, Andy mumc
Paul ablitt ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah
AJM 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Very thin and techy in the groove, good lead by Si

Si dH 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Hard for E1. Lots of 5c.

with Andy Morris
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
pie_eater_pete 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with bwestwood
bwestwood 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with pete sargeant
APRS 30/Aug/12 AltLd
Ewan Russell 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


with Alec
mike lawrence? 24/Aug/12 2nd
with FatRob
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead
frume 04/Jun/12 2nd
Cardi 14/May/12 2nd O/S
with Gwen
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Foster 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1.

with Si 2
Tim Sparrow 31/Mar/12 AltLd
with Piers Nesbitt
Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Adam Coles 11/Feb/12 AltLd
with hilty
Hidden 11/Feb/12 AltLd dog
hilty 11/Feb/12 AltLd

pissed wet through at the bottom, didnt expect that groove up there, great feature, great climb

Owen_P ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tom Livingstone 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 16/Oct/11 Lead

hard for E1. very damp initial crack til through the roof (dripping on head) and sketchy moves up the groove to a hard looong reach for the ledge.

chriscarroll 16/Oct/11 2nd

first crux, 5b. Second crux thin 5c! good lead livingbone you chopper!

adam06 09/Oct/11 AltLd
with Ryan
Clay C 25/Sep/11 AltLd dog
with James O
James Oswald 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Found this very hard, pushed me to the limit of what I currently feel I can lead. Well protected the whole way (LOTS of small wires) and gets harder as it goes. Lots of 5a, then a 5b traverse (after asking Clay to give me his small wires too!), then sustained 5b for 8 metres or so. Then one (or two?) 5c moves which required high bridging using small footholds. One of my favourite leads so far, a pity you have to climb some crap pitches to get out! Amazing.

with Clay
Katex 14/Sep/11 2nd
with Neil, Mike
andy mcc 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led the easy 4b top pitch

with Robin Nicholson
Hidden 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MD 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Misha
Misha 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike D
daviesxxx 13/Aug/11 AltLd
steveleahy 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

neil led 5c pitch, wet and slippy, dodgy all the way. i led last pitch which took about 3 mins!

Mark Young 07/Aug/11 AltLd
with Mat E, Tom Sampson
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
givemetea 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S

P1 would have been pretty harrowing and insecure to lead. I led the easy top pitch.

with Vince
3 Names 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I lead first pitch, Roz lead pitch 2

theotherpetehill 01/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Chris P2

chrisallan 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
david morse 09/May/11 AltLd O/S

A 3 star E2 5c

with Glyn+Alex (Romania)
Glyn 09/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with tony (army)
Liam FLeming 28/Mar/11 -
dswansonlow 02/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with sarp
duncandarnell ?/Mar/11 -
sarpedon ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Thought the bit under the roof was meant to be the crux, top groove kept me on my toes.

with Aaron
Dizz 22/Jan/11 AltLd

Led p2. Pitch 1 very good value!

with hugh
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
pauldrew 21/Nov/10 Lead
with Kevin Sales
al99 06/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch to the abseil point. The abseil was very dangerous with lots of loose rock and mud!

with Andrew Bitmead
jparry75 ?/Sep/10 Lead
with emlyn
clive-greenwood 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Technically the hardest route climbed this summer.

with Anna
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
DavidR 18/Aug/10 AltLd dog

Kev - pitch 1; me - pitch 2. Fell off midway up the top corner/groove. Foot popped off a smear!

Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead dog
Dazzlin 14/Aug/10 2nd
with Ross Davidson
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
Hidden 14/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Lenny 11/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Tony
John Pickles 20/Apr/10 AltLd
with Kieran Hodgson
Rob Pitt 16/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Stu Stanley
simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
nicolat ?/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
Duncan Campbell 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

led easy 2nd pitch. hard smeary climbing on p1!

with Bubbles
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd
Pete Graham 06/Mar/10 Lead
with James Fleming
liam 22 ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch,

hervenuttall ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Chris Ebbutt ??/2010 AltLd
with Dave C.
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 Lead
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
mr mills ??/2010 -
with Elfyn (chang)
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
barni 15/Sep/09 AltLd rpt
Liam FLeming 15/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with barni
shane54 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Desperatly hard and sustained towards the top. Thank god for the foot rest below the crux. Hard in the grade!

crag_monster ?/Aug/09 -
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Olli
cem 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark O'Neill
Glyn 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Lead main pitch, wonderfully technical route with good gear where its needed. Take plenty of small wires

with Zion
Hidden 20/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead
Owen_P ??/2009 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 01/Nov/08 2nd O/S

I'd give this E2, very technical.

Martin Haworth 31/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Brown 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Max
lukea 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Al
Sgt. Vest 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
kieranrex 31/May/08 -
with Matthew Burdekin
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/08 2nd RP
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/07 2nd
Dale ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

one of my first 5C pitches. excelent route. 5B move under the overhang to get to the groove then sustained 5C up that groove just caught the top.

with johny
Hidden 10/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Rob Grant 12/Aug/07 AltLd
Luke Brooks 12/Aug/07 AltLd
chrishedgehog ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Deg Bolger
MikeT ?/Jun/07 AltLd dog

Fell off 2ft from the top of the 1st pitch - well gutted - then breezed it

with GE
Hidden 28/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/07 AltLd O/S
Rachael Barlow 24/Mar/07 2nd
with Pete Robins
Dan 85 07/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
barni ??/2007 AltLd

1 st

with lucy
Owain Llewelyn 03/May/06 Lead

Very enjoyable. Good protection where it counts.

with Dad
Hidden 29/Jan/06 2nd rpt
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
ritchierich 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches

with Ritchie Griffiths
IOAN D ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with gareth
Iggy_B ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Fred - DMM
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
VPJB ??/2005 -
The Reaper 21/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Jun/04 Lead
samwelli 08/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Mark Stevenson 06/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
with Crossley McEwen
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/03 2nd
IanD353 ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Ailsa
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/02 Lead O/S
michael burrows 23/Jun/02 Lead
with ket
nickdonohue ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Simon Vallance
Just Another Dave ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/00 -
Paul-Michael 16/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with Nick Hanie, Dave Gun
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
WB 16/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with Nicola
Joe Solo 01/May/97 Lead O/S
with jed and tony
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Eduardo Martinez 27/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Roget 28/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with jon
michael burrows 17/Mar/96 AltLd rpt
with andy boorman
craig h 02/Mar/96 Lead
with Janet Hannah
pete johnson 09/Apr/95 Lead
with Steve Findlay
belay bunny turned bad ??/1995 -
nai ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Bullybones ??/1995 -
rob.grafton ??/1995 Lead
with Ben, Bruce
tlr ?/Oct/94 AltLd
with Pete D
Hidden 27/Jul/94 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/94 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/May/94 -
steve taylor ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1994 2nd
Pete Nugent 06/Jun/93 -
with Geoff Mann
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
neilh 01/Aug/92 Lead
with sara hyde
tlr 10/Apr/92 AltLd
with Pom
Budge ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
mattnuttall 29/Mar/91 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
wynaptomos ?/Mar/91 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
Hidden 22/Sep/90 Lead
Neil R 06/May/90 2nd
with Ian
Rich Kirby 06/May/90 2nd
with Andy Mackay
pingora 13/Apr/90 2nd O/S
with G Murray
Bob ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Unsure
John Marsland 17/Aug/89 2nd
with Dave Mould
Hidden ?/Jul/89 AltLd
TonyF 30/Apr/89 -
with Judith, Dan
Richard Weller 02/Jul/88 -
with John (from KMC)
Mike Owen 22/Jun/88 AltLd rpt
with Paul Mills
Mike Owen 24/Apr/88 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Ken lindsay ??/1988 AltLd O/S
with Bob
Hidden 07/Nov/87 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/87 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 26/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with lawrence cox
Hidden 30/May/87 Lead
Mike Owen 31/Jan/87 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Jan/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
Neil R 29/Nov/86 2nd
with Ian
Neil McA 09/Aug/86 2nd rpt
with Jim Dockery
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/86 Lead
johno072 ??/1986 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 24/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ?/May/85 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Mar/85 Lead
with Rory Park
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Melok ??/1985 AltLd
John Marsland 10/Nov/84 2nd
with Dave Mould
AlanLittle 20/Aug/84 Lead
with Dave Hall
sadams 06/May/84 AltLd
with Chris Thwaites
Lone Rider 06/May/84 AltLd
with Doug Hawthorn
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/83 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Bruce Kerr 05/Apr/83 Lead
with Grahame Nicoll
GordonHart ??/1982 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
Neil McA 31/Jul/80 Lead O/S
with Flog
Nigel Bond 13/Jul/80 AltLd
with Ian, John
Mike Owen 12/Jul/80 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Hidden 29/Jun/80 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/80 2nd
Nic Robinson 01/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/80 Lead
Hammy 04/Apr/80 AltLd
with Tony Mitchell
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
steveboote ??/1980 Lead

With Liz Perriolet

kjacks ??/1980 Lead O/S

Clean ascent of a marvellous pitch - full on value and probably low E2

with Phil Dickens
TonyF 21/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Tony Cox
Mike Owen 16/Sep/78 2nd rpt
with Pete Craig, Phil Ralph
Rob Davies ?/Sep/78 Lead
with Angus McLean
Mark Kemball 17/Aug/78 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead rpt
with Chris Newton
Mike Owen 27/Mar/77 Lead rpt
with Pete White
Hidden ?/Oct/76 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/76 Lead
Bolt Phobia 15/May/76 Lead rpt


with Kit Spencer
Steve Lewis 02/May/76 2nd
with sharpie
Mike Owen 02/May/76 2nd β
with Sandy Doby, John Roberts
RichardMc 25/Oct/75 Lead O/S
with Harry Woodbridge
Hidden 23/Aug/75 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 02/Mar/75 AltLd

We both free climbed the crux; first time we'd seen chalk at Tremadoc!

with Peter Boardman
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
pneame 01/Aug/74 -
Martin Bennett 17/Aug/73 -
with RA
Steve Clegg 27/Jul/73 AltLd
with Chris H
mikej 07/Feb/70 AltLd
with Pete Boardman
mikej 20/Jun/69 Lead
with Bill Church
uphillnow ??/1968 Lead
with Pete Clayton
Hidden 08/Sep/66 AltLd dnf
Seymore Butt ??/1965 2nd
with John Whitfield
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 69
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set