Rockfax Description
An extra-polished first pitch leads to more-open climbing above. Start by the slab below the big diamond-shaped wall.
1) 5a, 15m. The corner is slippery and awkward - big gear needed. Belay on a ledge.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb a crack on the left near the arete to a ledge, then move up to another ledge. A short groove leads to a tree belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the slab until tricky moves lead up left to gain the arete, which leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Welsh for 'The Frog'

Ticklists: The V.S.+ Ticklist.

JackM92 01/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Initial corner dripping wet and polished to a glassy sheen...

bradleyrichards93 01/Nov/17 AltLd
Ollie B 24/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with J.Williams
Col Kingshott 14/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Loose block is fine. Second pitch has a 5a move to gain the ledge.

MarkFoster 26/Jun/17 Lead dog

One fall on the polished crux. Used mainly mid-size cams (2.5-3.5). Top arête is no pushover, quite small gear needed (I used a cheeky side runner).

with Bex
emma1987 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
lukey13 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Emma :)
PeteMc 18/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S
rachelpearce01 17/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Steven Daniels
steven_daniels99 17/Apr/17 Lead
MoWalker3 25/Mar/17 AltLd

Did the 1st pitch of Oberon as Y Broga was wet, trees need a trim too!

with Aidan
PaulTanton 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S


with Tom Doldon
Hidden 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Matt Harmon 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led p1, very slippery. Would've been a delightful once upon a time.

with ali
Hidden 25/Sep/16 AltLd
Jake Maxwell ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
joe.91 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
KeenClimber 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Ron
dtalbot 26/Jun/16 AltLd

dropped a cam, thankfully retreived

with Max B
Hidden 17/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Michael Morrell 08/Jun/16 AltLd

Lead first pitch, super polished.

Hidden 08/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Wyn Bach 27/May/16 TR

Top Roped the first pitch at the end of a day climbing with Guides to fill in half an hour. First time I've used a stacked hand jamb!

with Chris Pelling
ianstevens 23/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2/3. Slippery first pitch, then combined the second two to get up before dark whilst in a 4.

with Joe Taylor, Emily Groves, Joe Dean
emgroves 23/Mar/16 2nd
joedean 23/Mar/16 AltLd
Dave Almond 14/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
frost 14/Mar/16 AltLd
James-m-h 28/Feb/16 Lead β
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 Lead
with Dave Woodcock
benny_m 13/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Felt worked after the first pitch, bottom half all jamming top half all lay backing

with Su
Hidden 13/Oct/15 2nd
ElMagz 11/Oct/15 AltLd β
JordanRickard 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with ElMagz
Tim Francis 22/Sep/15 -
LJC 19/Aug/15 AltLd

MIA training.

jezb1 18/Aug/15 Lead

top pitch

Hidden 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/15 2nd
stephheeley 10/Jun/15 2nd
jack 9895 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

very polished horrible first pitch

khalidq 27/May/15 2nd O/S

1st pitch very scary for lead.

Dan Vaj 27/May/15 Lead RP

Delicate feet

with Khalid
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/15 2nd
tomwright1509 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Louise Hall 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Technically the pitch I led was actually the last pitch of Merlin

jandyd05 24/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Sneaked this route in on a drying afternoon. Initial pitch up the corner of Oberon slab is super polished making for a right royal thrutch. Final pitch somewhat contrived but some nice moves. We belayed higher than the book suggests, at the tree below the final crack of Merlin - said tree is now looking somewhat dodgy!

with Tom Lawfield
Matthew Ferrier 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the p1 glassy monstrosity. Pitches after that were pleasant.

with David, Fran
franhammond92 12/Oct/14 2nd

Got halfway up the first pitch of glass but couldn't figure it out. We got a little lost and missed the last arete.

with Matt Ferrier, David Robinnette
dkd 01/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Mike (Skye Guide)
gazace21 ?/Oct/14 2nd O/S
kermit_uk 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Michelle led P1 I led P2 & 3 in one.

StevieJ 18/Aug/14 2nd dnf

Seconded 1st pitch only

with C3, lithos
C3 18/Aug/14 2nd dnf
mikestr555 16/Aug/14 AltLd

lead first pitch

jordan taylor 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
with mcb
brolte 17/Jul/14 Lead

I could see my face in it it was so polished!

SamP88 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

1. AR, 2. AR, 3. SP (3rd pitch of Merlin)

with Alex R
Alex Riley 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Super polished first pitch, nearly slipped off (rather than fell). Ace second pitch, brilliant exposure, great holds.

with Sam P
dig 11/Jul/14 AltLd
with rob
robman 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
ziggy996 26/May/14 2nd O/S

Amazing climb, first pitch very polished.

Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd
JamesWilliams 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

First pitch is mega polished! second and third pitches really nice climbing top pitch swing on the arete is amazing exposure! lead P1 & P3

Big Lee 06/May/14 AltLd RP

Fell off the first pitch. Route 1 lay-backing up the middle section is tough due to the polish! Easier with a more delicate approach. Led pitches 2+3 strung together.

eburki1 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
jmills94 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S

damn good lead by ed on this one, they are not kidding when they say its polished! I found it desperate trying to layback and ed found it desperate burying him self in the crack! the climbing above is interesting and worthwhile.

with ed
Jamo Walker 17/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Joel Perkins senior, Joe Rudman
Jelly Mould Surfer 17/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Repeated nearly 25 years to the day after my first go...should have been almost on sight after that amount of time, but the first pitch was exactly as I remember it. HVS is definitely appropriate for the first pitch.

Joe Rudman 17/Apr/14 2nd dog

Polished is an understatement on the first pitch! nice technical moves with a dynamite lay-back. Well done big Joel!!

davebrox ??/2014 -
cymjt ??/2014 -
JakeWShaw 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S


with Pete
pete1993 13/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3, definitely got the 2 best pitches on the route

Louis Hume 05/Oct/13 AltLd
with Sarah
caradoc 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S 27/Sep/13 AltLd
Simon Cahill 27/Sep/13 AltLd dog

Backed (read fell) of first pitch at about 5m, Deb lead through, I fell off three times seconding! Pitch 2 (4b) ok with an awkward move onto the arete, pitch 3 finished up the (4a) crack of Merlin by mistake.

Double Knee Bar 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

L p1. Slippery, very tiring

Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Duncan 88 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Glenn Manifold, Andrew Bladon
Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd
pbuggy91 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch

Fragmod 18/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
andyevans 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P2 glossy start on p1 but one good foot for the move, 3rd is bold at aret

with cdpuk
cdpuk 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Tala A 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Very polished first pitch!

jezb1 05/Apr/13 AltLd

I lead P1

Hidden 05/Apr/13 -
Dizz 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with David B
Hidden 13/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 23/Feb/13 AltLd
danJBA 23/Feb/13 AltLd
simonvand 23/Feb/13 AltLd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
alpinebutterfly 22/Oct/12 -
carl roberts 20/Oct/12 TR
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ray Sparks 04/Aug/12 2nd
with conrad
ejellard 03/Aug/12 2nd β

Didn't like the arete!

Allan Watson 29/Jul/12 AltLd

super polished first pitch!

with Paul Greenhow, Ian Atkins
whitehouse_rhys 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Rob law
ronmcdonald 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd
dionhughes 29/May/12 AltLd dnf

Seconded the first 5A pitch, finished up Oberon as I strayed too far right of the 2nd Pitch and couldn't find a way back. (basically jibbed out)

with Gerwyn
Pete_Frost 26/May/12 Lead β

Led first pitch on sight with commentary from Dave. Abbed off before easier final pitches. Polished to a fine sheen. Next time, take Mongo the No.4 Camalot!

with Dave Pearce
SamuelHarris 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton 13/May/12 AltLd dog

Slip on 1st pitch due to stupidity

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead
mhawk 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
HAJ Francis 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
AntWallace 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
GordonAinslie ?/Oct/11 -
Lotte Stuer 14/Sep/11 2nd

only 2nd pitch/ help out on rapid rock

Jim Slater 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Dan Vallin, Alan Smith
Hidden 29/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/11 2nd dog
Lawrie Brand 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Laing
matthomas79 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the first and Third pitches. Great climbing throughout. the third pitch is a real corker and feels very exposed and great fun. Well done to Ben for leading the second pitch as his first outdoor trad lead.

Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd
stvredmond 05/Jun/11 AltLd

Led P1 and P3, how polished does the start want to be, bit racey through the first pitch, top pitch is awsome on real rough rock

Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
Leo Woodhead ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian W
keithpeck 29/May/11 AltLd O/S
Rory Southworth 28/May/11 AltLd O/S

2nd first pitch and led the last two.

Hidden 27/May/11 AltLd
Michael Allday ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with rodney greenfield
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Dan Lane 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P2+3. I went off route and took a different, harder top two pitches.

willoates 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch one. wet and quite hard. Dan lead the 2nd and third. nowt special

Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
vinspin 28/Mar/11 AltLd dnf

lowered off half way up first pitch after a near savage owl attack on Oakover lost my mojo :) twit twoo

with ritchie
vinspin 28/Mar/11 2nd rpt

led third pitch

with ritchie
ritchierich 28/Mar/11 AltLd rpt

Did pitches 1 and 2 after Vinny's appetite deminished rather repidly halfway up the first pitch.Super polished so nothing positive at all for your feet.

with Vinny
Hidden 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
jon thompson27 13/Mar/11 AltLd
with Alex Thompson
Tom Livingstone 07/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bsmedz ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 21/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with AO
rustaldo 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

lead the first and last pitch.. the first is certainly interesting and quite polished

with Rob
Hidden 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
kleinej 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Kim P2. We got a little off route somewhere on P2 and so P3 went up in the wrong spot. But P1 (the HVS pitch) was fine.

with Kim M
kim.mulji 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Seconded first and third pitch. Led second pitch.

with Jason
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd
Keith Jones 18/Jun/10 Lead

1st pitch only. Good foot work helps.

with David
hedgehog77 15/Jun/10 AltLd
with ratty
Hidden 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
r.greaves 06/Jun/10 AltLd
with Nat
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Different Steve 02/May/10 Lead dog

Dammit! wimped out on on the slippery slab & took a rest. Not that bad in the end but all feels rather insecure.

with Ian Ackerley
tomosb 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Darren Thompson
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead dog
beeson_paul 07/Mar/10 AltLd

o brother variation

beeson_paul 07/Mar/10 AltLd

o brother variation (VS)

pie_eater_pete ?/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with ben smedley
Hidden ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
MarkDavies36 ??/2010 AltLd
with Jill Singleton/Davies, Corin Burdon
jamie ward 13/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Instructing
Hidden 02/Oct/09 TR
Helen23 05/Aug/09 2nd

Sooo polished but really enjoyed it! Great laybacking up that first pitch. Only first pitch done, ran out of time

with Plas y Brenin (Dave Evans)
ebf 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Only worthwhile for the first pitch. It's like ice climbing without the ice or crampons or ice axes.

with Paul Stephenson+Tim Fryer
davidwright 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Toby
Tobes 20/Jun/09 AltLd
eastfinchley pete 17/Apr/09 2nd
with Mark and Cath
Dom Whillans 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with a.crook
A Crook 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Carly 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with sophie
en7edh ??/2009 Lead
steven 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Tough lead with wet slab at the crux. Good pro though.

with Simon Dawson
Gandalf 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Thought this was a V. Diff. but decided half way up it was too hard for a V. Diff. so double checked and turned out to be a HVS (but an easy one)

with Becky Weller
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead
spum 20/Oct/07 Lead β
with jen
Eccentric 09/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Hmmmm nice polish on the first pitch, felt like laybacking on a surface of ice!

with Andy Foster
ritchierich ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
tonymw 29/May/07 2nd

Climbed 2nd and 3rd pitches only. Used for Oberon for the 1st pitch owing to the awful start of Y Broga.

with Gary Smith
Zoomer 11/May/07 AltLd

Howling first pitch due to gopping amounts of polish.

with Andy Nelson
Hidden 06/May/07 2nd
Hidden 17/Mar/07 2nd
Dan 85 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Very shinny first pitch (not sure if it's polish or just the rock), almost came to grief as holds etc where soaked on 1st pitch!!

tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
irish paul 17/Nov/06 Lead
with Andy F
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Solo
zcapxa5 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Ross
Hidden 17/Aug/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/06 AltLd dog
edmitchell 10/Jun/06 AltLd dog

Difficult polished initial slab, after that, great rock, good situations!

with kai ren
Hidden 01/May/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 23/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Chesh ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Lawrence
abercolin ?/May/05 AltLd
JamieAyres ?/Sep/04 Lead dnf

failed leading a wet first pitch but did the rest OK

3 Names ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Derek Ryden 16/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Nick DMM
Nigel Coe 09/May/04 AltLd
with Amnon, Scott Titt
Hidden 09/May/04 AltLd
Hidden 16/Oct/03 2nd
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 09/Jun/02 -
with SF
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Roget 08/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with jon
cem 08/Jul/00 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with James Gregory
Bruce Kerr 25/Mar/00 Lead
with Keith Turton
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
dicky79 ??/2000 2nd O/S
with Eddie
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2000 -
daviesxxx ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/98 TR
Hammy 01/Aug/98 AltLd
auld al ?/Sep/95 Lead O/S

1st pitch with elaine

Budge ??/1995 Lead dog
with Ceri Jones
nai ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Pete Nugent 26/Jul/92 -
with John Bennison
Hidden 01/Jun/92 Lead
kennylind ??/1992 Lead O/S
tlr 23/Jul/91 AltLd
with Pom
adi bryant 05/May/91 AltLd O/S
with Phil
andrew300169 ??/1991 AltLd
with Pom
Hidden 11/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead
conradallen 13/May/90 AltLd
mattnuttall ?/Apr/90 Lead
with Alan Holden
DDDD ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Unsure
Jelly Mould Surfer 30/Apr/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
pauldrew ??/1989 Lead

Late 80's

babymoac 05/Jun/88 Lead
with kevin B
Hidden 28/Feb/88 2nd
Hidden 28/Feb/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Hidden 29/May/87 AltLd
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
Hidden ?/May/86 2nd
michael burrows 23/Mar/86 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Neil R 11/May/85 Lead
with Richard W
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Melok ??/1985 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 AltLd
with Nige Holding
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Hammy 05/Dec/81 Lead
with Andy Murphy
mark-abz 29/Sep/81 Lead
with Andy W
Andy Fielding 15/Sep/81 2nd
with Mike Gilbert
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden ??/1981 -
RichardMc 14/Jun/80 Lead
with Tony Fraser
Hidden 26/May/80 Lead
RichardMc 27/Apr/80 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 06/Apr/80 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Ian Clare ??/1980 -
TonyF 21/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Ian Birkinshaw
telemark ??/1979 -
with Len Marlowe
rogerskews 11/Mar/78 -

Desperate, polished

with Martin Coward
Steve Bell ??/1978 -
kjacks ??/1978 Lead

Pitch one done seperately, the rest as a finish to Oberon.

Pedro50 27/Mar/77 AltLd
with Steve White
Bolt Phobia 28/Jan/77 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1977 Lead
with Will Walker
jmr ??/1976 Lead

Done several times in the dim and distant: likely these partners, and likly from late 70s on.

with Tim Murray, Bob Howard
pneame ?/May/75 -
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Mike Owen ??/1975 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
tapley 13/Jul/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 12/Apr/74 2nd dnf
Hidden 12/Apr/74 AltLd
Andy Say ??/1973 Lead
jon 29/Oct/72 Lead
with roger b
RichardMc 04/Jan/72 AltLd
with Roger Everett
greenbuoy 13/Aug/71 AltLd
with Bob ?
Gordon Stainforth 19/Jul/71 AltLd
with Tim James
Martin Bennett 21/Jun/71 -
with Nick Kingsford
RichardMc 17/Jan/71 Lead
with Dave Francis
mikej 18/Oct/70 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
eroica64 07/Mar/70 Lead

LMC trip. Very pleased to lead pitch 1.

lump'o'lead ??/1970 -

Excellent first pitch (if you like bags of pro and lots of jamming), pretty unmemorable after that

Tom V ??/1970 -
rob from scotland ??/1970 Lead
mikej 16/Mar/69 Lead dnf
with E
RichardMc 18/Apr/68 Lead O/S
with Richard Wicks
Hidden 18/Jun/66 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/65 Lead
jcw ?/Dec/63 -

Used to be called Saucepan Bach. Done it several times, including solo. The first time was with Ron James dec 1963 and finished up Merlin direct

uphillnow ??/1963 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set