Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
Precarious balancy climbing up an overhanging wall - how does it do that?
1) 5c, 38m. Follow Merlin to gain the base of the groove. Climb rightwards along a rampline and make hard moves up onto a ledge. Negotiate your way leftwards across this and balance up a rib to a crack. Move across this quickly to gain the easier slab out left. Belay below a short steep groove at a tree.
2) 5a, 6m. Finish up the corner, or abseil off. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , North Wales E3's , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Tremadog 2018/2019 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| George_Surf | 2 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: *Probably best not to ab off the tree if you can help it, it's looking pretty sorry for itself | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: *Probably best not to ab off the tree if you can help it, it's looking pretty sorry for itself |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Left Wall Direct Finish
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)