75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay just above the high-water mark and 6m right of the first good tidal ledge reached on the approach traverse.
1) 5a, 27m. Make a diagonal traverse up right to a slight rib past a peg, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.
2) 4c, 17m. Climb the corner to a steepening, then head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal. Peg, thread and sling belay.
3) 5a, 32m. Move out right to the base of a steep corner-crack. Climb the crack on good holds to an easing at its top. Move left to a smooth walled corner-crack and jam and layback up this all the way to the top. Belay on a large metal pole. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Memorable approach by sea level traverse which can feel hard on humid days. Alternatively approach by a 60m abseil FROM THE LIP (use another rope back to the pole). If you abseil remember to kick out or you'll end up hanging over the sea like a dummy.
Excellent video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMMRgLyh3fY
Steep urgent climbing on the first pitch and a sublime sustained corner to finish. Rightly a candidate for the best HVS in the country. Check out this article http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=133

Peter Biven , Pat Littlejohn (VL) 06/Aug/1967

Ticklists: Hard Rock, HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, MIA logbook must haves!, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 15/Sep Lead O/S
james-carey 14/Sep Lead O/S

Brilliant route and lovely weather. Just a bit of a shame about the whale sounds!

Hidden 06/Sep 2nd
Jacob Reeves 06/Sep Lead O/S
AngelaC 27/Aug AltLd

Rick 1+3, me 2nd pitch - Was pretty sure I was grinning most of the way up this epic climb - that feeling when you think youre climbing really well - but deep down suspect it's the brilliance of the climb just flattering your mediocre technique! This combined with an airy down climb and traverse around the huge sea cave to get to the start , made a memorable climbing experience - definitely my top HVS!

R0BJ0N 20/Aug AltLd O/S
with Steve Price
alexm198 19/Aug AltLd O/S

What a bloody amazing crag! A good route though certainly not the best HVS in the country in my book - a bit too guano-covered and vegetated in the upper section. P1 was good honest jug hauling in an amazing position. Don't hang about on the top section as it smells horrendous... P2 was straightforward but had an interesting moment coming face to face with a baby seagull hiding in a little alcove on the traverse. P3 gave some interesting moves up the steep corner crack and rewarded a confident approach. The huge seal living in the cave followed our progress with great interest!

Matt Harle 19/Aug AltLd O/S
Rory Bascombe 18/Aug AltLd rpt

Good news was that I started in the right place this time and led all pitches. Bad news is that a fulmar was in angry mode and we got visited by the monsoon...

with Tim
mikeyjbs 12/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3

featuresforfeet 12/Aug AltLd O/S

P2. High traverse through cave quite 'exciting'

Fragmod 11/Aug Lead
Gerben Neven 05/Aug AltLd

Started at least 5 meters of the route, so we missed the first pitch. Involved Will doing a long sketchy downclimb and then going up and right. Took a big swing on second when a hold popped. Lead P2, traverse to pedestal was a bit dirty. Chick in a small cave near the start of the traverse started spitting/puking at me when seeing my face. P3 was nice climbing, layback at the top feels committing.

Will Mortimer 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Gerben
Hidden 14/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
J_Spooner 14/Dec/16 AltLd
Hidden 16/Nov/16 AltLd
EllieWoods 05/Nov/16 AltLd rpt
jon_gill1 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Great route but hard work after very late night on Greenland reunion!

Adam Hill 03/Nov/16 AltLd
with Simon
benjaminloveday 01/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
jhobbs 28/Oct/16 2nd dog

Ab'd in, got damp toes and nibbled by the resident seal - thanks Charlie ;) All climbing technique went out the window in the first pitch - for some reason I was climbing face on and got massively pumped, need to remember side on when i come back! Found the corner tricky on the third pitch and also had a massive rock fall as I loaded my left foot on a huge ledge, luckily Charlie wasn't right below. That made some noise when it hit the sea!! Has anyone seen the seal since???

with Charlie chambers, Pete Belfield
petecallaghan 15/Oct/16 2nd rpt

Ellie lead all three pitches. We started at 11, about an hour before low water, in sunshine, and topped out at about 1 in the rain

EllieWoods 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great adventure route! Traverse in definitely adds to the experience. Pete graciously let me lead all of it.

keepguessing 12/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Night climbing practice, very windy at the top.

with Tom D
Tom D 12/Oct/16 2nd

awsome route in the dark with a big swell and and a strong wind. most intimidating absail ever past the overhang into the blackness of the cave mouth but what a situation to be in! not enough stars to explain how good this route is!

WillDoyle ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
joermann 25/Sep/16 AltLd
cheeky 23/Sep/16 AltLd

This route is awesome. The only thing that lets it down is if you are unlucky enough to only get to lead the middle pitch, although nice its to easy and over to quickly. I will return to lead the other pitches. One of the best routes I have done in over ten years of climbing. Only HVS due to the situation it puts you in. Wouldn't want to be unable to climb this!!

mark4344 23/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb and situation. Abseiled in and hanging belay start.pitch 1 steep jugs and fiddly gear. In hindsight, could gave joined first 2 pitches. Top pitch, good fun and great gear.

with cheeky
Steve Lenartowicz 22/Sep/16 Lead
with Clare
Neil McA 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with martin cooper
Martin Cooper 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

P1&2 together. I lead last pitch

with Neil
bryan61 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

lived up to its reputation, a magnificent route

with sally
Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
ClimbingAlex 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Best climb I've ever done. Absolutely stunning. Led P1/P3.

with Matt
Matt Magecha 17/Sep/16 2nd

Stunning!

with Alex
LDJ 15/Sep/16 Lead
with Lou
keepguessing 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Took Ed up for his first ever trad climb, all things considered he did fantastically.

with Ed
EdGS 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Seb
Hidden 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
poeter210 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1+3. Amazing jug stroll above the calm sea.

Tilt ?/Sep/16 2nd
with Ben P
FelixJT 30/Aug/16 Lead
WilliamRupp 30/Aug/16 2nd
with felix
katiep 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! Hardest bit was traversing the great cave with a rack and ropes. Great way to end an amazing weekend. Led P1 & P3

Amy Horton 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Wonderful way to end the weekend, with Katie P

RKirke 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Sam Husband 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed second pitch. P1 felt like it would be tricky to protect. Fulmar close to belay 2 but it flew away after a while.

with Woger
evhall 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Couldn't reach pitch 1 (by ab) so just p2,3 - I did fantastic p3 - endless gear and holds - great climb!

with goat
funsized 27/Aug/16 AltLd
with Fi
bradycallahan 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Pete Scott 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Brady did P1+3. I did P2. Great fun. Fulmar in the nest.

with Brady
hankyc 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
emitto 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Nigel
Nigel Bond 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route should have done this years ago, did the sea level traverse which is the best way to reach the start. Climbing is really good with a lovely top pitch. Just 12 hard rock routes left. Many thanks to Tim enjoyable picnic and sea fishing to follow.

with Tim Teo
Pohil 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with SP
Longsufferingropeholder 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Getting to it was the hardest part. Neap tide so we had to go shoes off socks off to reach the footholds for a few metres of the traverse. Beautiful calm, sunny day and excellent situation but the route felt fairly unremarkable for a Hard Rock.

with C May
C May 14/Aug/16 AltLd

Tim lead P1&3, Lead P2.

with Tim
mackers 09/Aug/16 -
andycash 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Paul Davis
saz_b 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Great location. Ab'd in. Good straightforward enjoyable climbing throughout. P1 Pumpy. P2 nice little traverse at top. P3 good climbing near top. Warning, still a nesting chick in little cave near start of p3 (7th Aug 2016).

lynchit 07/Aug/16 2nd dog

Great route with a tricky 'scramble' inside the great cave . P1 took a lot of grunting and panting, as Ben led a variation first pitch potentially called jugg-ernaut, a, super juggy e1. P2, P3 were excellent, despite being exhausted after my efforts on P1 and getting carried away at a 21st the night before.

benkelsey 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Was sick on by a baby fulmar. Good effort to Adam as we did variation first pitch potentially called jugg-ernaut, a, super juggy e1. Excellent route

with Adam lynch
Kemics 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3. Abbed in. Glorious line, found the first pitch quite hard (initially a bit fiddly gear) and found the easy run out quite spooky. The top two pitches were completely covered in loose soil. Still 3 stars

with Saz
slowmotion ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

lead P2. Good stuff

with jonny P
keepguessing ??/2016 Lead rpt
with sam
keepguessing ??/2016 Lead rpt
with sam
lankysod ??/2016 -
ABCD ??/2016 Lead O/S
andy28th ??/2016 Lead O/S
andy28th ??/2016 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Avon Man 29/Dec/15 AltLd rpt
with Derek
Rory Bascombe 29/Oct/15 Lead O/S

1St pitch

with Chris Rees
keepguessing 03/Oct/15 Solo rpt

Fantastic solo few really loose massive chunks of rock to be careful of easy to spot if paying attention, can definitely reccomend soloing if you are confident at the grade, rehearsed it that day and don't mind the exposure.

shoulders 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

pitch3

with pete lewis
Nick Russell 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt

A brilliant adventure: arrived by boat, climbed the route and abbed back onto the boat. Keeping my breakfast down on the second boat pitch was definitely the crux!

BALD EAGLE 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Bob Watson, Nick Russell
Adam Hill 04/Sep/15 2nd dog

Exciting approach down into and around the Great Cave. Fantastic route.

with Simon
nickdonohue 03/Sep/15 Lead

Brilliant outing - so pleased to finally get on it! I thought pitch 1 was much tougher than the rest of the route, being steep and pumpy and difficult to get good gear on the initial traverse.

with Tom Lawfield
Becky E 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Avoided being clunked on the head by rocks from the dodgy simul-climbers described by Ian MK. Great route - steep and enjoyable. I touch less guano would be nice. Final pitch tricky as it started raining.

Ian MK 29/Aug/15 Lead

What an experience! Overtaken by two clueless young lads "Simul" climbing. The leader knew everything about climbing but couldn't understand why everyone else on the crag were using double ropes. His second had only been climbing for 2 months. The leader arrived on P1 behind my partner and bragged how he only placed on piece of gear. There were already two teams on the belay but he refused to clip in as he wasn't stopping. He told the belayer of the team ahead of us that his partner had obviously reached the belay and was just pulling up rope so it was ok to take him off belay even though he hadn't heard "safe". Apparently he had said the same to my partner whilst i was climbing. It all got a bit exciting when he kicked off the 6" cube of rock he was stood on and his partner started yelling "put me on belay..take!!" He then took about 10 minuets to set up a very marginal belay. I fiddled in a nut to try and protect my partners and me who had there rope running over our feet. There must have been a mountain of slack in there system. If the second had fallen off we would have all been in serious trouble. We decided to let them pass kicking off every loose bit of rock you could find on there way! They told my partner they were training to do the longest route in Scotland, only possible to do in a day if (Simul climbed)! Good luck with that one boys!!

with Anna
Graeme Hammond 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Only just made the end of the tidal window with the bank holiday traffic.

with Becky E
foxjerk 29/Aug/15 -
with wiwwim
rob.grafton 22/Aug/15 AltLd

Tricky approach ended up having to swim...great route though

with andy bunnage
supersouthward 09/Aug/15 -
with Selen Thyssen
Hidden 08/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
john lynch 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great way to start the weekend.

with Alex.
keepguessing 01/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Couldn't finish due to a aggressive bird will come back and finish at a later date, really easy nice climbing that being said, must come back and simul it some time.

with sam
LauraTejada ?/Aug/15 2nd

A real adventure! A wet traverse, squawking birds and the last 2 pitches were beautiful. All well protected apart from the climb in :-)

Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
DredStripe 28/Feb/15 AltLd
Lee_Meaden 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Luke Robinson
darcan 10/Jan/15 AltLd
with nick
nickstephens 10/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
Hidden ??/2015 -
BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
jamie ward 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 13/Dec/14 AltLd rpt
outdoorrob999 06/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd and 3rd pitch. very cold

Hidden 06/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
John Mcshea 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Lucy
Drew M 26/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 09/Sep/14 Lead
with Sharon
John Tanner 07/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
dbrooks 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitches 1 and 3... epic!

with John
mountain_jay 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

brilliant. did it quite quickly so we could squeeze magical mystery tour in as well. I linked up 2nd and 3rd pitches.

Pippa 06/Sep/14 Lead
kennythescot 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
5210Hill 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kenny Brewster
APAPAP 02/Sep/14 AltLd

Lead 1st & 3rd Pitches

Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd RP
alastairbegley 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

exciting approach to a brilliant route with outstanding exposure

adam 24 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Top class route with an atmospheric approach

Stuart Johnston 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P2 and 3. Excellent.

markalmack 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S

simul-climbed

with gwen, james marjot
BC 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead p2.

tom169 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Paul R
Joe Costello 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Every route should be like this. Seals, shit and sausage butties!

with Matt
paul reah 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

what can I say, Frank Cannings is a Hero, Amazing route!!!

mattwyles1 15/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Full on adventure,3hrs from car back to car. A seal and a few boats came to watch. Fulmar chick a nice surprise on pitch 2.

with Joe
Phil79 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Alt leads, I got pitch 2. Well worth 3 stars, great intimidating climbing on good holds on 1st pitch. 3rd pitch also great.

with Steve H
Stuckey 04/Aug/14 AltLd
kennythescot 04/Aug/14 Lead dog
timdi 02/Aug/14 Lead
dan gibson 02/Aug/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/14 AltLd
Misha 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Got back to the car park after MMT just after 6pm so decided to do this to make the most of the day. P1 is the crux - I actually got a bit pumped seconding it after doing MMT. I then did P2 and P3 in one pitch (about 45m), which worked well, particularly as I only placed five bits of gear in the 45m or so of. Good bridging and jamming on P3. The top half of P1 and most of P2 were pretty dirty, which definitely detracted from the route. May bit it was the dirty state of the route, may be I'm just too used to doing harder and better routes but didn't think this was particularly amazing. Worth a couple of stars though and this takes me over a third of Hard Rock.

with Eszter
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
tskelhon ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
andy_pemberton 22/Feb/14 Lead

The abseil in was exciting enough! Then cool February shade, water in the cracks and a dirty, greasy feel to everything else made this seem top end HVS! Fantastic though.

with Dave Marshall, Sarah Massey
Tom D ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Ianhansen ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Mike W ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead O/S
arandall 15/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1 and 3, totally awesome route, really weird how the start is loads of horizontal shelf/slots on the black/brown rock and by the end its classic limestone climbing.

Hidden 15/Oct/13 Lead rpt
georgeevans88 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with James N
jamesn89 05/Oct/13 2nd
timreynolds 22/Sep/13 Lead

P2 & 3 only (after escaping Goddess of Gloom) - lead as one long pitch

Sean Kelly 22/Sep/13 Lead dnf

The forecast said sun, we had sea mist which resulted in all the holds being very damp & slimy. The mid tide height in the cave meant a high traverse of the left wall (VS?). The slime continued, all the sloping holds on the first pitch instilling little confidence, especially as they seemed to slope all the wrong way. Unrelenting steepness, time looking for placements (mostly very good) and knackered arms force a rethink a short distance from the belay. Better to return on a warm, dry sunny day so we bailed out...

with Harry Pearce
AJM 21/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Condensed as anything first thing which kicked the psyche for Dreadnought.

Chubbard 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. The traverse in was wet and super scary.

with Paz
Tubs 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Too greasy and wet for Dreadnought so did this instead. Well positioned.

with AJM
steveprice.exmouth 21/Sep/13 AltLd

led P1 and P3

Sarah Welsh 21/Sep/13 AltLd

P1 Steve, P2 Me, P3 Steve

Hidden 09/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Pajamas Tom 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

led P1 and P3. Awesome route!!!

Gilster 30/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with James
ian d f 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
PaulTanton 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Norman_P_W 21/Aug/13 AltLd
with Bob M
Hidden 21/Aug/13 AltLd
Bob M 21/Aug/13 AltLd

Led 2 and 3. Fantastic adventure climbing. Approach through the cave was very atmospheric but easy at low water springs with flat sea. Intimidating first pitch up overhanging rock on big holds, very exposed but well protected VS on the upper pitches.

Jackislav 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Amazing

andy dunn 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with J
petegunn 08/Aug/13 AltLd

A superb outing start to finish, just one wet toe between us! :)

with Davina
Hidden 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Incredible route. Led P2 and 3 together.

Mike Dudley 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Abbed in but the 60m ab was a bit too far south which meant (given steepness, even with 5 directional runners) there was no chance of reaching the first stance so had to put a hanging belay c 20m to left and do an approach pitch in. I led P0, 2, 3; Dave led P1. A good route despite the guano and angry gulls. Atmospheric, decent climbing and steep for the grade - but no way is it a contender for the best HVS in the country in my opinion.

with Alys Rook, dave657
Dan Lane 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P1, Tom led P2/3 in one. What a brilliant route in a stunning situation and a good variety of rock too.

cymjt ?/Aug/13 -
Edvenables ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent. Pretty ill for this so took the easy (but run out) pitch.

DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/13 -

Date is a guess

with Paul Hennelly
Hidden 25/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Cheese Monkey 11/Dec/12 Lead O/S

5.30am, alarm sounds. 6am out the door, on the road. Arrive 7am. Low tide 8:30am. Forgot that sunrise is at 7:45... Downclimb a pleasure. The great cave was booming to a 1.5m swell, 100s of gulls staring down at us as we traversed around the cave. One ledge required lightning reactions to dodge the waves. Start of the route - dry feet. P1- steep sustained but lovely jug and pump fest - serious. I was wondering what I had let myself in for by the end of it. P2 was a nice cuddle back, its only HVS they say. P3 was the perfect end, beautiful climbing in a amazing situation. Good times. If dont want spectators be sure to ask the coastgaurd nicely, else bored crew will come and watch you from the boat haha

with Goss
Stanners 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

From the approach to the top-out, pure adventure. An experience I won't forget. https://vimeo.com/52489663 - Our ascent.

with Martin Stanfield
duncan 13/Oct/12 AltLd rpt

Abseiled in, one hour car-to-car. As part of all the SW Hard Rock Routes IAD.

Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
general 29/Sep/12 AltLd
with Ian Lau
misterb 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

The approach is almost better than the route and a lot of fun. p1 wet but very good .p2 pokey and p3 interesting.good afternoon out

with bob
Rowena Clare 16/Sep/12 Lead
Ed Babs 14/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1 + 3. Good but marred somewhat by the poo at the chock stone on P1.

with Eddie Young
Nick Russell 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

The abseil is definitely possible with just a 60m rope tied to the pole. Bottled the approach the previous day - I'll have to return for that (I'd be happy doing it as part of a traverse of magical mystery tour)

with Emily
Hidden 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
alice fuller 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S

2nd Deema who climbed it brilliantly in 2 pitches. serenaded by a seal when we went back for out rucksacks.Lead last pitch Aug 2017. Ace climbing, good gear reminded me of Centotaph corner. prev 2nd Pete in Sept 2012.

Martin Haworth 03/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Great effort by Ed on a very wet 1st pitch!

with Ed Hastrop, Jen
JenDurden 02/Sep/12 AltLd
Dave Rumney 02/Sep/12 AltLd

Wet & slimy P1 with a guano finish. Very retrospectively enjoyable.

with Tanya Milner
Stroppy 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, was horrifically wet and muddy, slipped, lost my nut but actually the moves weren't that bad just very sketchy protection and VERY VERY wet. P2 & P3 had a lot more protection and were much more fun. Can see why this is top 50, super exposed all the way up and saw a massive seal and a fulmar.

with Dan Barbour, Jen Durden
J.A.Thomson 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Seconded the first and second pitch lead the third pitch.The first pitch was wet and slippery and stank,the second pitch was easy the third was a very good line the only one worth climbing.The setting was amazing

with Dan
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead
R2B 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 3. Not bad but pretty easy for it's grade.

with John Stuart
frank ramsay 28/Aug/12 -

Nick fell in on the traverse out of the cave. Very amusing. Very wet.

belay bunny turned bad 24/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 24/Aug/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead
Pete Rigby 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Fez
Matt Smith 18/Aug/12 AltLd dog

What a climb. Great approach, managing to stay dry with a low spring tide. Got midway up pitch one before slipping off a guano-sprinkled ledge, cue biggest trad fall to date. Tried twice more, with same wipper resulting. An apparantly "rusty" John then puts me to shame cruising pitch easily. After a bit of faff, which nearly resulted with me being lowered into the drink. P2 was fairly easy, apart from being vomited on by a baby sea bird on lead. P3 is an unrelenting pump fest. First jamming, then laybacking. Definetly come back again, just need to order some bigger guns.

John Tanner 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, lovely starting position. Pitch 3 is a joy!

crag_hopper_Jay 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches, what a quality route! The traverse around the cave, to the bottom of the route, just adds to the whole experience. A classic!!

sunshine.hannah 14/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
J.A.Thomson ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with Dan
Max19 ?/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
beardy mike ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Helen Gibson ??/2012 -
williamsd79 ??/2012 -
Hidden 22/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
JackHatton 22/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

led p3 awsome climb awsome exposure

with richy mardell
jeremyvanr 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches.

with James Mitchelmore
petecallaghan 09/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

What a fabulous day! Low spring tide at 11am. We got there around 10am and traversed the Great Cave dry. Thanks to the low tide Steve could belay from the low platform. I lead P1 - delightful steep climbing on massive holds, with reasonable protection. I suffered a bit of rope drag just as I approached the belay at the top of P1. A hanging belay on 2 big hexes and a big cam while Steve lead P2. P3 was no pussycat, but brilliant rock with solid gear and a great finish to a great climb.

Duncan Campbell 08/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Got a bit moist on the traverse in, thought we could just wade across the lower traverse with shoes off, Bubbles stayed dry(ish) My shoes and trousers got soaked! P1 is brilliant, P2 is pretty good, bit dirty, and the top pitch is mega too. *** Steady HVS 5a.

with Bubbles
Graham Westbrook 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
philhilo 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route - fragrant! Finished as the sun set.

with Helen E
mattkemp70 ?/Oct/11 AltLd
with Westy
RossT 30/Sep/11 AltLd

Amazing adventure

with Andrew Edwards
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead
WB 27/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Mr Tickle 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Great route, led P1 and P3. Felt P3 was harder than P1. Fantastic exposure

with davenev
davenev 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led the easy p2 - keep something in reserve for p3 its tough!!

with luke
Hertha 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

so happy to be living in Devon with climbs like this, proper adventure, got wet to thighs getting there. lead middle pitch, the easy one

with Burto
burto 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with hertha
Hidden 12/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
GuyM ?/Sep/11 AltLd

steep, misty, damp, greasy at bottom, lots of guano, exciting abseil down... enough fun for one day -we gave dreadnought a miss!

with will
net 30/Aug/11 2nd

Major gibber on 1st pitch. Amazing route!

with George
GPN 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Annette
georgel 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

totally brilliant

with will
Wilbur 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Bloody amazing. Best HVS i've done and not sure you'd find a better mix of position, exposure and climbing anywhere at this grade.. (Lead P1 & P3)

with George
richiebongo 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Smelly!

with Gwen Thomson
Richard Horn 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
wi11 15/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

P1&3

Hidden 15/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Chad123 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Well worth doing even though I'd done Dreadnought previously. The top pitch is very fine, steep and juggy in a great position. The approach was the hardest as the tide was nearly all the way in, so the approach round the Great Cave was very pumpy trying to stay out of the water - Jo nearly pulled me in, swinging wildly and had to climb the route in wet jeans!

with Jo
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
just one more 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with tony l
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
mark schramm 22/Oct/10 Lead dog

Unexpected slip on the 1st pitch led to fall that was a litte close to the sea, otherwise just as good as last time.

with steve P
James Mitchelmore 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
francois 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
BelayBunney 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb! Atmospheric, mega-exposed, dodgy traverse in, but an amazing route. Gotta lead it next time!

mark schramm 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches.

with tom m
tommoulds 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Amazing!

with Schramm
Jonathan Emett 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with crispin
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
colkurtz 01/Sep/10 AltLd
with Robb
Bristoldave 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

led p1 & 3

with Andy
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
DanLear 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 2

with Al McPhierson
MH123 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Jack Folland, Sam Farnsworth
Jack_F 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

What an amazing route

with sam farnsworth
Shaw Brown 07/Aug/10 AltLd

Started the first pitch in the wrong place and had to traverse an old seagull nesting site to get back on route which was less than nice. The rest of the route and the trip as a whole was superp.

with Loz
Hidden 03/Aug/10 Lead
Neil Rigiani 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd
markpollak ??/2010 -
williamsd79 ??/2010 -
tcfield 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
twright180 28/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

lead 1 and 3. this climb is incredible. very easily one of the best HVS's in England. easy in its grade.

w.pettet-smith 23/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

led middle pitch.great day out but a bit of a let down after all the hype. low in the grade.

with paul
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Rollo 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Mike did the hard pitch. Lots of bird crap and a gull at the second belay. Hilarious, slimey soloing due to getting tide times wrong! Don't forget to pack the guns for the first pitch.

with Mike
mike.moss 23/Aug/09 AltLd
msoldn 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Pau, Jason
dmoir 11/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Lauren and Mayer
Lauren Davies 11/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave and Mayer
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Joris.Roulleau 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

lead first and last pitches. Approach throught the cave is good fun

with Nick Hirst
37degrees 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, Great day out

with J.Baker
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Dhonny_Jaws 08/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Mosienko, Michael Porter
Hidden 08/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/08 AltLd
Blisco 11/Oct/08 2nd dog

If prusiking and escaping up the wrong line can even count as having dogged it...

with Nick Hirst
Hidden 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Chris_barr 09/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 27/Sep/08 AltLd

Great conditions, topped out into the sunshine, pleased to have ticked this.

with Martin
Steerpike 14/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Excellent, despite the smell. Arrived too early for the cave traverse so abbed in. Glorious weather.

with Tommo
Hidden 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
duncan 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Popkids 08/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Pete led the 1st and 3rd pitches.We absailed down to the start just above high water.What an adventure and what a fantasic route

with Kafoozalem
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
cornishben 02/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led 1st/3rd pitches. A good adventure with the approach through the cave

with Gareth
sebrider ?/May/08 AltLd O/S

Late start, Ttraversed in, finished with just enough light.

with Roby Rudolf
Hidden 24/Jan/08 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Frostie 18/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
guy757 18/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 17/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 17/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Wifey
alaan 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich
Mark Stevenson 17/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Rich Mayfield 17/Aug/07 AltLd

The last one TFFT

eddy-on-the-rocks 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben
chris wyatt 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

loved belay after p2- An armchair in the sky

richardr ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Superb route, superb day! The peg cluster for the belay has rotted away, look out for the stumps that remain!

TonyF ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Paul Harrison
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Dave Searle 17/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with sim
AJH 07/Oct/06 AltLd
with Crispin
sgl 04/Sep/06 AltLd
with Konnie
Hidden 04/Sep/06 AltLd
dan gibson 24/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 13/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
nathanmanc 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
AJM ?/Aug/06 AltLd dog

Failed on the first pitch. Alex led 1 & 2, I led final pitch.

Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Mark Davies PK ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Chris j
Hidden 10/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Boxy 12/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Vince
Hidden ??/2005 -
Okecroak 17/Oct/04 AltLd
Chris Ebbutt 17/Oct/04 AltLd
with Dave R.
Chris Ebbutt 17/Sep/04 AltLd
with Dave R.
Hidden 17/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 01/Aug/04 AltLd
with James Parrot
feilx ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Ian Lovatt
Ben1983 ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
fellgazelle ??/2003 AltLd O/S
tom.e ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2003 -
IanGilbertJones 11/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/00 AltLd
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Sep/99 Lead
Toerag 22/Feb/98 AltLd O/S

7 hours car to car - had to wade the cave, lost belay device to the sea at end of 2nd pitch. Andy led pitch 1 and 1st half of 3 before running out of gear and having to belay.Awesome route :-)

with Andy Shaw
mikej 06/Sep/97 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
phardman 08/Feb/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
timreynolds 08/Nov/95 AltLd
with John Burnip
colin milton 08/Sep/95 AltLd

lead p1 and 3

with eric milton
Mark Kemball 30/Aug/95 AltLd
with Matt Vigg
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Tony Kartawick ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S

One of Life's most awesome climbs

with Jan Kartawick
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
Hidden ??/1993 -
Marti999 ??/1992 -
kp64zl ?/Oct/91 AltLd
with Simon T
Hidden 11/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?/Mar/90 AltLd O/S

Classic stuff.

with Ket
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
Derek Ryden 06/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
with Krishna
Dave Musgrove 04/Aug/89 AltLd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Aug/89 -
with Dad
Hidden 01/May/89 AltLd O/S
frank ramsay ?/Nov/88 AltLd
Johnny Baker 01/Oct/88 AltLd O/S

Have climbed this superb route many times and have enjoyed each ascent of this great Hard Rock route

with Dave Webster
Nick Biven 09/Sep/88 Lead O/S
Simon cook ?/Aug/88 Lead
davidalcock ??/1988 -

Simply stunning. Just do it. I'm going back later this year if I'm fit enough.

with Philip Scorer
clark alston ?/Sep/86 Lead O/S

Outstanding.

with Alan Pow
Bullybones ??/1986 -
Andy Edgar ??/1986 Lead
with Ben Gilbert
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
ukb & bmc shark 22/Sep/85 Lead

Andrew's first and only climb. Ascended with a single 9mm rope and featured a 40foot pendulum.

with Andrew Lee
Billg ??/1985 AltLd
with Dave Gregory
Hidden ?/Nov/84 AltLd
charlesmfrench ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden 23/Aug/83 Lead O/S
GeoffG ?/Aug/83 AltLd
with greg cottrell, tony bowker
stp ??/1983 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 24/Aug/82 -
with JD
mark-abz ?/Jun/81 AltLd
with Andy W
Nigel Coe 06/Sep/80 AltLd

Approx date

with Allan Yeend, Robin Wilson
babymoac 16/Aug/80 AltLd
with MTW
jon 10/Nov/79 Lead
with Elaine
Mike C 04/Nov/78 2nd
with Dave Hyde
Pete Nugent ??/1978 AltLd

My first trip to the SW, just after finishing Uni. A comedy of errors, slipped on the approach traverse and was left dangling by one arm. Would have fallen in except that I didn't want to wreck my camera. Dave, Ian Adamson & Stuart Ems pissed themselves laughing. Also, rope threaded my rope between Ian & Suart's as we went up the cliff.

with Dave Garner
Ian Jones ??/1978 Solo O/S

Great

Steve Bell ?/Nov/76 AltLd
with Chris Gibson
Marcus ??/1976 -
Falko 30/Dec/74 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Dave Musgrove 21/Apr/73 AltLd
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 89
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 90
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set