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Rockfax Description
A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tremadog 2018/2019, UK Holiday Plans, Definitive *** Tremadog, Best of the rest and the ones that got away

Feedback

User Date Notes
lanky 10 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Put gear in the crack then traversed back to arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Put gear in the crack then traversed back to arete.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 64
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Left Wall Direct Finish

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)