Rockfax Description
10m. The shallow crack fizzles out short of the top, but not before all the hard climbing is finished. The runners are positioned just below mid-height. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the slab to a hard mantle leads you standing at the top of it and pondering your next move. The way is obvious, but the moves are desperately hard and the gear a long way away.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Routes 2019, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

Tom Peeper 26/Oct/18 Solo RP
Hidden 07/Oct/18 TR dog
spidermonkey09 26/Sep/18 Solo O/S

Well good. Above plenty of pads, but doesn't feel like a boulder problem. Mantle in the middle is the hardest move but there is one more tricky bit before the top. Had expected to have to clean it but it was pristine on arrival so had to have a go; cheers Jono and Scott!

Sam Marks 25/Sep/18 Lead RP
Jono_1989 22/Sep/18 Solo RP

Not ideal, bit damp and green but psych was high after watching Scott breeze Psycho.

stevo smith 04/Aug/18 TR dnf
with Paul Alexander
Steve Wootton 11/May/18 TR dog

1-2 moves from the top! Did not expect!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/Feb/18 Solo

Abbed and inspected, with a brief fondle of the moves and a good brush of the holds (it was very green). Did it on my own as the sun was setting, which made it all the more memorable an experience.

Tom.Priestley 07/Jun/17 TR RP

First toprope solo, took a few goes as I was getting used to the system.

pastep 28/Mar/16 2nd
with ebf
ebf 28/Mar/16 Lead

After TR practice, lead with a crab hanging from the top 10' above the usual final piece of pro. A ground fall/injury/hospital trip is not an option right now. Pretty damned scary even with that. I know it's not true lead style, so when I can, I will come back and do it properly. Amazing route - only just there, but it is all there, even on a green slimy day like today. Paul top roped but didn't do the lead.

with pastep
nathanlee 28/Feb/16 Solo β

James cleaned it up, wouldn't have gone for it otherwise! Amazing top sequence, its all there

with Crew
JamesTurnbull97 28/Feb/16 Solo RP

Linked the top first go on a rope, then refined beta. Sent first go. Psyched

Ram MkiV 28/Feb/16 Solo β
James Thacker ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Solo RP
mrajyandy 09/Aug/14 TR RP
ebf 03/Aug/14 TR RP

Top roped it clean 1 time out of 10. Not quite ready for the lead. At least 2 tech grades harder than Ephedrine which I led earlier in the day!

mrajyandy 03/Aug/14 TR dnf
with ebf
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Nez ??/2014 -
hamer89 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Scccary!Gear felt a long way down...Classy route though

munch88 05/Sep/13 Solo dnf

Really green needed cleaning had plants growing out the crack and top was really green and loose

with Shunt
dominic lee 05/May/12 Lead β
with molly, nathanlee
minT(HUN) ??/2012 TR RP
Peter Smith 11/Sep/11 TR dnf
with Carolyne Doran, Mick Leather
akhughes 14/Aug/11 Solo RP

Only two top ropes, both clean, then the solo. Awesome route. But i think you would deck from the top moves even with a rope.

PaulHermes 13/Jul/11 TR
with ebf
ebf 13/Jul/11 TR O/S

Climbed clean on-sight (apart from a silly slip on the very bottom move) with no beta. It's hard from the end of the crack and don't fall off the top moves (which are the hardest) or you'll hit the floor. Tempted to go back and lead it. Very nice route indeed.

with Chris Voisey, PaulHermes
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Kirsty McGhie-Fraser 04/Jun/10 TR dog
Peter Holder 08/May/10 Lead RP
with Daz Graham
Hidden 06/May/10 TR dog
CBA ?/Mar/10 -
Sean_J ??/2010 TR RP

clean second go

with Robin
Hidden 12/May/09 Lead dnf
nige 05/Oct/03 Lead RP
with mark hounslea
Eduardo Martinez 31/May/00 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 TR dnf
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Mike Owen 05/Jul/98 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe, Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove ?/May/98 Lead rpt

Probably one of my best gritstone leads! It was FA cup final day and I only set out to hold Tim's Rope but there was a team of 4 others all trying it on a rope. I had a couple of top rope goes and found I could do it fairly easily so after a couple of the others had led it I decided to give it a go. Bingo! My first real head-point.

with Dave Sarkar, Tim Lowe
Si Witcher ??/1996 Lead O/S

no pads

Dave Musgrove Jnr 26/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with Chris Wentworth
Hidden ?/Sep/93 TR
shoulders ??/1993 TR
Cowflinger 11/Apr/92 Lead
with sharpie
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Solo
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
craig h ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Aug/89 TR O/S
craig h ?/Aug/89 TR
with Dnmn
scree ?/Aug/85 TR
Dave Musgrove 17/May/85 TR O/S

Not my normal practice to top rope but never thought I'd be good enough to lead routes like this. Head-pointing hadn't really been invented at this stage.

with Lyn
Dave Turnbull ?/Jul/84 TR
rob.grafton ??/1984 TR
with barry maybank
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set