10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. The shallow crack fizzles out short of the top, but not before all the hard climbing is finished. The runners are positioned just below mid-height. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the slab to a hard mantle leads you standing at the top of it and pondering your next move. The way is obvious, but the moves are desperately hard and the gear a long way away.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jmpollard 19 Sep TR rpt Hmm...
Hmm...
ollyisaclimber 20 Jun Solo RP Had a couple of goes at the top section on a rope without falling and managed to get up it first go. An absolutely amazing route!
Had a couple of goes at the top section on a rope without falling and managed to get up it first go. An absolutely amazing route!
mfisher 18 Apr TR dog
with James Thompson
with James Thompson
Tom Peeper 26 Oct, 2018 Solo RP
Hidden 7 Oct, 2018 TR dog
spidermonkey09 26 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S Well good. Above plenty of pads, but doesn't feel like a boulder problem. Mantle in the middle is the hardest move but there is one more tricky bit before the top. Had expected to have to clean it but it was pristine on arrival so had to have a go; cheers Jono and Scott!
Well good. Above plenty of pads, but doesn't feel like a boulder problem. Mantle in the middle is the hardest move but there is one more tricky bit before the top. Had expected to have to clean it but it was pristine on arrival so had to have a go; cheers Jono and Scott!
Sam Marks 25 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Jono_1989 22 Sep, 2018 Solo RP
stevo smith 4 Aug, 2018 TR dnf
with Paul Alexander
with Paul Alexander
Steve_90 11 May, 2018 TR dog 1-2 moves from the top! Did not expect!
1-2 moves from the top! Did not expect!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24 Feb, 2018 Solo Abbed and inspected, with a brief fondle of the moves and a good brush of the holds (it was very green). Did it on my own as the sun was setting, which made it all the more memorable an experience.
Abbed and inspected, with a brief fondle of the moves and a good brush of the holds (it was very green). Did it on my own as the sun was setting, which made it all the more memorable an experience.
Tom.Priestley 7 Jun, 2017 TR RP First toprope solo, took a few goes as I was getting used to the system.
First toprope solo, took a few goes as I was getting used to the system.
pastep 28 Mar, 2016 2nd
with ebf
with ebf
ebf 28 Mar, 2016 Lead After TR practice, lead with a crab hanging from the top 10' above the usual final piece of pro. A ground fall/injury/hospital trip is not an option right now. Pretty damned scary even with that. I know it's not true lead style, so when I can, I will come back and do it properly. Amazing route - only just there, but it is all there, even on a green slimy day like today. Paul top roped but didn't do the lead.
with pastep
After TR practice, lead with a crab hanging from the top 10' above the usual final piece of pro. A ground fall/injury/hospital trip is not an option right now. Pretty damned scary even with that. I know it's not true lead style, so when I can, I will come back and do it properly. Amazing route - only just there, but it is all there, even on a green slimy day like today. Paul top roped but didn't do the lead.
with pastep
nathanlee 28 Feb, 2016 Solo β James cleaned it up, wouldn't have gone for it otherwise! Amazing top sequence, its all there
with Crew
James cleaned it up, wouldn't have gone for it otherwise! Amazing top sequence, its all there
with Crew
JamesTurnbull97 28 Feb, 2016 Solo RP Linked the top first go on a rope, then refined beta. Sent first go. Psyched
Linked the top first go on a rope, then refined beta. Sent first go. Psyched
Ram MkiV 28 Feb, 2016 Solo β
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
Hidden 17 May, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 17 May, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 21 Apr, 2015 Solo RP
mrajyandy 9 Aug, 2014 TR RP
ebf 3 Aug, 2014 TR RP Top roped it clean 1 time out of 10. Not quite ready for the lead. At least 2 tech grades harder than Ephedrine which I led earlier in the day!
Top roped it clean 1 time out of 10. Not quite ready for the lead. At least 2 tech grades harder than Ephedrine which I led earlier in the day!
mrajyandy 3 Aug, 2014 TR dnf
with ebf
with ebf
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
Nez ??, 2014 -
hamer89 30 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Scccary!Gear felt a long way down...Classy route though
Scccary!Gear felt a long way down...Classy route though
munch88 5 Sep, 2013 Solo dnf Really green needed cleaning had plants growing out the crack and top was really green and loose
with Shunt
Really green needed cleaning had plants growing out the crack and top was really green and loose
with Shunt
dominic lee 5 May, 2012 Lead β
with molly, nathanlee
with molly, nathanlee
minT(HUN) ??, 2012 TR RP
Peter Smith 11 Sep, 2011 TR dnf
with Carolyne Doran, Mick Leather
with Carolyne Doran, Mick Leather
akhughes 14 Aug, 2011 Solo RP Only two top ropes, both clean, then the solo. Awesome route. But i think you would deck from the top moves even with a rope.
Only two top ropes, both clean, then the solo. Awesome route. But i think you would deck from the top moves even with a rope.
PaulHermes 13 Jul, 2011 TR
with ebf
with ebf
ebf 13 Jul, 2011 TR O/S Climbed clean on-sight (apart from a silly slip on the very bottom move) with no beta. It's hard from the end of the crack and don't fall off the top moves (which are the hardest) or you'll hit the floor. Tempted to go back and lead it. Very nice route indeed.
with Chris Voisey, PaulHermes
Climbed clean on-sight (apart from a silly slip on the very bottom move) with no beta. It's hard from the end of the crack and don't fall off the top moves (which are the hardest) or you'll hit the floor. Tempted to go back and lead it. Very nice route indeed.
with Chris Voisey, PaulHermes
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Kirsty McGhie-Fraser 4 Jun, 2010 TR dog
Peter Holder 8 May, 2010 Lead RP
with Daz Graham
with Daz Graham
Hidden 6 May, 2010 TR dog
CBA ?Mar, 2010 -
Sean_J ??, 2010 TR RP clean second go
with Robin
clean second go
with Robin
Hidden 12 May, 2009 Lead dnf
nige 5 Oct, 2003 Lead RP
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Eduardo Martinez 31 May, 2000 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2000 TR dnf
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
Mike Owen 5 Jul, 1998 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe, Elaine Owen
with Tim Lowe, Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove ?May, 1998 Lead rpt Probably one of my best gritstone leads! It was FA cup final day and I only set out to hold Tim's Rope but there was a team of 4 others all trying it on a rope. I had a couple of top rope goes and found I could do it fairly easily so after a couple of the others had led it I decided to give it a go. Bingo! My first real head-point.
with Dave Sarkar, Tim Lowe
Probably one of my best gritstone leads! It was FA cup final day and I only set out to hold Tim's Rope but there was a team of 4 others all trying it on a rope. I had a couple of top rope goes and found I could do it fairly easily so after a couple of the others had led it I decided to give it a go. Bingo! My first real head-point.
with Dave Sarkar, Tim Lowe
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S no pads
no pads
Dave Musgrove Jnr 26 Sep, 1994 Lead O/S
with Chris Wentworth
with Chris Wentworth
Hidden ?Sep, 1993 TR
shoulders ??, 1993 TR
David Slater 19 May, 1992 Lead RP one top-rope attempt only then led
one top-rope attempt only then led
Cowflinger 11 Apr, 1992 Lead
with sharpie
with sharpie
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 Solo
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
craig h ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 TR O/S
craig h ?Aug, 1989 TR
with Dnmn
with Dnmn
scree ?Aug, 1985 TR
Dave Musgrove 17 May, 1985 TR O/S Not my normal practice to top rope but never thought I'd be good enough to lead routes like this. Head-pointing hadn't really been invented at this stage.
with Lyn
Not my normal practice to top rope but never thought I'd be good enough to lead routes like this. Head-pointing hadn't really been invented at this stage.
with Lyn
Dave Turnbull ?Jul, 1984 TR
rob.grafton ??, 1984 TR
with barry maybank
with barry maybank
Neil R ??, 1984 TR
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Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set