Rockfax Description
Another stunning classic with sustained difficulties and breath-taking exposure at the grade. Care is needed to protect the second adequately on the devious and exposed crux pitch.

1) 4b, 12m. Climb up to the left side of the large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay beneath the flakes and corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb the wall above the belay to gain the base of the large corner system. Follow this until a hand-traverse line leads rightwards along the highest of two parallel ledges to a tough step-down. Follow an easing diagonal line rightwards to an awkward semi-hanging stance.
3) 4c, 18m. Drop down rightwards from the stance and head right again under the roof to reach a ledge. Climb up and left, past an arete, to gain a grassy stance.
4) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove above to gain the short cracked wall. Climb the crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, The Big Easy Mountain Route Club, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ned_85 14 Sep AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
with Scott Marc Berry
joe.91 25 Aug Lead O/S Only the last pitch.
with K Mckay
Only the last pitch.
with K Mckay
K Mckay 25 Aug 2nd O/S P4 only
with joe.91
P4 only
with joe.91
jrccrosby 25 Aug AltLd O/S fun, but a bit tame
with ElsieB
fun, but a bit tame
with ElsieB
merski 25 Aug AltLd
with Nick Outram
with Nick Outram
Nick Outram 25 Aug AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4. Great route. P2 traverse amazing. Excellent day out. Finished up Pinnacle Wall.
with merski
Led P2 and P4. Great route. P2 traverse amazing. Excellent day out. Finished up Pinnacle Wall.
with merski
Hidden 25 Aug AltLd
Hidden 25 Aug AltLd O/S
Giles Davis 24 Aug 2nd Nice second pitch and great exposure on the thuggy third pitch. Crux for me was the last pitch where I, rather defeatedly, pulled on gear. Didn't think it was Top 50 but good route with good positions.
with Lloyd, VPJB
Nice second pitch and great exposure on the thuggy third pitch. Crux for me was the last pitch where I, rather defeatedly, pulled on gear. Didn't think it was Top 50 but good route with good positions.
with Lloyd, VPJB
VPJB 24 Aug -
merski 24 Aug AltLd O/S John did P1 and P3, I did P2 and P4. Did the wrong P4 as didn't move left on the ramp. The unprotected mantel at about 5a was awesome though!
with John McEvoy
John did P1 and P3, I did P2 and P4. Did the wrong P4 as didn't move left on the ramp. The unprotected mantel at about 5a was awesome though!
with John McEvoy
henrygiles99 21 Apr AltLd O/S Felt harder than VS 4c!
Felt harder than VS 4c!
GStone 20 Apr AltLd O/S Led P2 very committing mega exposure!
with Marcus Harvey
Led P2 very committing mega exposure!
with Marcus Harvey
Tom McCabe 19 Apr AltLd O/S P2,4. Took the upper hand traverse along the crack on pitch 2.
P2,4. Took the upper hand traverse along the crack on pitch 2.
Tom.Priestley 25 Feb AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. Burning sunshine and too hot!
with James Gibson
Led P1 and P3. Burning sunshine and too hot!
with James Gibson
gavster 29 Sep, 2018 Lead
with Jack
with Jack
Hidden 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd
PeteWilson 5 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with John R, Andrew Graham
with John R, Andrew Graham
cmtoombs 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with John Brammer
with John Brammer
Dave Musgrove 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S I didn't find this route quite as satisfying as I'd anticipated given its reputation. The traverse on pitch 2 was very good despite the confusing guidebook description. I took the high diagonal hand-traverse which seemed most logical and easy to protect with cams. The top groove gave Johnny a bit of a fight despite being ungraded in our old selective guide.
with Johnny Walker
I didn't find this route quite as satisfying as I'd anticipated given its reputation. The traverse on pitch 2 was very good despite the confusing guidebook description. I took the high diagonal hand-traverse which seemed most logical and easy to protect with cams. The top groove gave Johnny a bit of a fight despite being ungraded in our old selective guide.
with Johnny Walker
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Colin Scotchford 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Dizz 7 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Led first 2 pitches but Kev feeling ill so abbed off
with Kevin RM
Led first 2 pitches but Kev feeling ill so abbed off
with Kevin RM
Struck Lucky 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd Lead pitch 2. Climbed as three. Great day out, spectacular positions and belay ledges.
with Jimmy, Richard
Lead pitch 2. Climbed as three. Great day out, spectacular positions and belay ledges.
with Jimmy, Richard
Hidden 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd
manwithacam 1 Jul, 2018 2nd We decided we were going to move together, once the 60m rope had run out. Which was fine. Except Mark reached the top just as that happened. Which was fine. 4 pitch classic lead in one. A little rope drag... Great vs! What an outing.
with the grist
We decided we were going to move together, once the 60m rope had run out. Which was fine. Except Mark reached the top just as that happened. Which was fine. 4 pitch classic lead in one. A little rope drag... Great vs! What an outing.
with the grist
jing 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4. Found the step down straightforward with good footholds.
with rd20
Led P2 and P4. Found the step down straightforward with good footholds.
with rd20
rd20 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S P1 and 3
with jing
P1 and 3
with jing
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 AltLd
The Grist 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Led it all in one pitch. Enjoyable.
with Dan Metcalfe
Led it all in one pitch. Enjoyable.
with Dan Metcalfe
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd
MD 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led P2 and P4 linked into pinnacle wall
with Mark H
Led P2 and P4 linked into pinnacle wall
with Mark H
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd
featuresforfeet 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Went all over the place looking for gear to protect the traverse, ended up making the hand-traverse along the crack about the ledges.
Went all over the place looking for gear to protect the traverse, ended up making the hand-traverse along the crack about the ledges.
Green_t 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Jon Gupta, Bristol_Quornstar
with Jon Gupta, Bristol_Quornstar
Bristol_Quornstar 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1 & 2. Great outing with Jon and Tab. Launched across the obvious higher hand traverse on P2 which seems more logical and smoother than any foot-shuffling lower down!
with Jon Gupta, Green_t
Led P1 & 2. Great outing with Jon and Tab. Launched across the obvious higher hand traverse on P2 which seems more logical and smoother than any foot-shuffling lower down!
with Jon Gupta, Green_t
steveb2006 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd Good climbing - led 1, 3 and a bit of 4.
Good climbing - led 1, 3 and a bit of 4.
jld579 ?Jun, 2018 -
gritstone7 ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 23 May, 2018 AltLd
Alex Mason 22 May, 2018 Solo O/S Great climbing!
Great climbing!
Mihkel 21 May, 2018 Lead rpt MIA Assessment.
with Mark Roe, Mike Raine
MIA Assessment.
with Mark Roe, Mike Raine
Sophie Nunn 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P2&3
with Craig S, Keri
P2&3
with Craig S, Keri
Hidden 13 May, 2018 AltLd
Ralfy 7 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome climbing really exposed.
with John Elcock
Awesome climbing really exposed.
with John Elcock
chriswood ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
sambeaumont 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 3. Awesome route and crazy exposure
with Anthony
Led P1 and 3. Awesome route and crazy exposure
with Anthony
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
James Worthington 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd Second pitch. Really great route!
with Kelly , Ewan Russell
Second pitch. Really great route!
with Kelly , Ewan Russell
Hidden 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Ewan Russell 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S 3rd. Did pinnacle arete after
3rd. Did pinnacle arete after
John Bunney 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route, don't go too high on the second pitch, use the grassy ledge for feet! Hard for the HVS grade with more 5a then 4c.
Great route, don't go too high on the second pitch, use the grassy ledge for feet! Hard for the HVS grade with more 5a then 4c.
shed_hed 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S This is most definitely at least HVS, with most of the pitches having 5a moves in them. Great route with something different and interesting on every pitch. Led the last pitch up the groove and crack.
This is most definitely at least HVS, with most of the pitches having 5a moves in them. Great route with something different and interesting on every pitch. Led the last pitch up the groove and crack.
foostu4 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S A tricky route for the grade, great climbing in a fantastic position. Unfortunately got a bit eager on the traverse and ended a bit off route.
A tricky route for the grade, great climbing in a fantastic position. Unfortunately got a bit eager on the traverse and ended a bit off route.
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2017 -
sparkybatteryboy 22 May, 2017 AltLd ended up higher on second pitch taking a true hand traverse. turning it into more of e1 territory. rattled me quite a bit. if anyone know if this has a name please let me know
ended up higher on second pitch taking a true hand traverse. turning it into more of e1 territory. rattled me quite a bit. if anyone know if this has a name please let me know
ripper 7 May, 2017 AltLd Slogged up from path to Amp Buttress on a hot day, I led p2&4, Jigi 1&3. P1 quite bold/bouldery start 2 & 3 great but noticeably harder for us shorties and would be scary if this was your limit. Sun was on us all they way, climbed in t-shirts and burned the back of my neck! I spent a few minutes eyeing up the wrong exit on p4 - which was doable but a good couple of notches harder - before coming to my senses. Continued up P Wall with the shadow chasing us all the way
with Jigi Desai
Slogged up from path to Amp Buttress on a hot day, I led p2&4, Jigi 1&3. P1 quite bold/bouldery start 2 & 3 great but noticeably harder for us shorties and would be scary if this was your limit. Sun was on us all they way, climbed in t-shirts and burned the back of my neck! I spent a few minutes eyeing up the wrong exit on p4 - which was doable but a good couple of notches harder - before coming to my senses. Continued up P Wall with the shadow chasing us all the way
with Jigi Desai
hamish2016 ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Nikki Sommers, Tom Ripley
with Nikki Sommers, Tom Ripley
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S good route, not too difficult, each pitch had a crux. the mist was swirling!
good route, not too difficult, each pitch had a crux. the mist was swirling!
rachelpearce01 7 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
embob 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd Brilliant atmospheric route. Took a few up and down climbs to commit to the first unprotected moves on P1. Traverse on P2 was fantastic! P3 also really good with positive hands and nothing for feet. Struggled most with grovelling onto the ledge before the belay. P1 and 3 for me. Two abseils in from the top. Agree with North Wales Rock grading.
with alik b
Brilliant atmospheric route. Took a few up and down climbs to commit to the first unprotected moves on P1. Traverse on P2 was fantastic! P3 also really good with positive hands and nothing for feet. Struggled most with grovelling onto the ledge before the belay. P1 and 3 for me. Two abseils in from the top. Agree with North Wales Rock grading.
with alik b
smallerrich ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Sally, Iona
with Sally, Iona
EeFu 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd Led P3 only
with Kirill
Led P3 only
with Kirill
Kirill 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd A bit wet in places. The start of P1 and the the short cracked wall at the end of P4 were sopping. Very good route, with sustained interest throughout. HVS
with EeFu
A bit wet in places. The start of P1 and the the short cracked wall at the end of P4 were sopping. Very good route, with sustained interest throughout. HVS
with EeFu
Hidden 30 May, 2016 AltLd
JendeHoxar 30 May, 2016 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??, 2016 -
Darron ??, 2016 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 AltLd
Jack Manfredi 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
Tim Francis 2 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
static266 30 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Mihkel 28 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S A fine, exposed route. P2's traverse (my lead) was the best bit (this pitch is given HVS in the Ground Up guide).
with Nev Contractor
A fine, exposed route. P2's traverse (my lead) was the best bit (this pitch is given HVS in the Ground Up guide).
with Nev Contractor
DubyaJamesDubya 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S We went a little awry halfway into pitch 3 and ended up at the top of Agripa pitch 3. Joe led pitches 2/3 and I led pitch 1 and the 'escape pitch'.
with Joe Harris
We went a little awry halfway into pitch 3 and ended up at the top of Agripa pitch 3. Joe led pitches 2/3 and I led pitch 1 and the 'escape pitch'.
with Joe Harris
noemie5438 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Caitlin
with Caitlin
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
babymoac 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Capesy, GrahamD
with Capesy, GrahamD
Hidden 16 Jun, 2015 -
sgl 23 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with James
with James
Dan Hale 21 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ollie Halford
with Ollie Halford
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
msoldn 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
with Sam (tree surgent)
Pete_Frost 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2 & 4. Good gear is surprisingly rare on this route with many cracks being flared or hourglass shaped, and many spikes being loose. The true traverse line may be below the obvious top crack on P1. This lower line is on flat edges and doesn't have much gear, but it seems to have more footholds. I took the upper line and faffed for ages getting in the right size of cam before an awkward step 2/3 the way across.
Led P2 & 4. Good gear is surprisingly rare on this route with many cracks being flared or hourglass shaped, and many spikes being loose. The true traverse line may be below the obvious top crack on P1. This lower line is on flat edges and doesn't have much gear, but it seems to have more footholds. I took the upper line and faffed for ages getting in the right size of cam before an awkward step 2/3 the way across.
Clevelandclimber 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd Good climb we both felt crux was top crack and traverse was straightforward
with Malcolm Bass
Good climb we both felt crux was top crack and traverse was straightforward
with Malcolm Bass
Ray Sparks 16 Aug, 2014 Lead Superb route we had to ab of the end of pitch 2 as it was getting late and we never had are head torches.
with Pero
Superb route we had to ab of the end of pitch 2 as it was getting late and we never had are head torches.
with Pero
Pero 16 Aug, 2014 2nd
fizzychewitt 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd Great, involving climb. Every pitch is interesting. I agree with North Wales Rock over grading
Great, involving climb. Every pitch is interesting. I agree with North Wales Rock over grading
Jayney D 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Definitely HVS 5a. Amazing full on climb. Led pitches 2 and 4. Liz shot up the first pitch using her extra hand. The hand traverse pitch was amazingly scary with just a sling round a dodgy flake until gaining the corner. Ace route and brilliant all round mountain day including the lovely walk in from Eigiau carpark.
Definitely HVS 5a. Amazing full on climb. Led pitches 2 and 4. Liz shot up the first pitch using her extra hand. The hand traverse pitch was amazingly scary with just a sling round a dodgy flake until gaining the corner. Ace route and brilliant all round mountain day including the lovely walk in from Eigiau carpark.
will moy 7 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
poeter210 11 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Fantastic outing, even moreso when combined with pinnacle wall. Burly, intimidating and exposed, neither leader gets off lightly!
with druss
Fantastic outing, even moreso when combined with pinnacle wall. Burly, intimidating and exposed, neither leader gets off lightly!
with druss
caradoc 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd Superb VS... http://youtu.be/NwalmABk4xQ
with Matt H.
Superb VS... http://youtu.be/NwalmABk4xQ
with Matt H.
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 -
Col Kingshott 14 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Rob Evans ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
cathymiller 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2 and 4. Traverse on P2 not as bad as all that (helps to be tall probably).
with peaky
Led P2 and 4. Traverse on P2 not as bad as all that (helps to be tall probably).
with peaky
Hidden ?Apr, 2014 Lead
Si ??, 2014 -
rbharries ??, 2014 -
with mat
with mat
Hidden 24 Sep, 2013 -
TimKnight 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2 via high hand traverse, fun
with Dave Marshall
Led P2 via high hand traverse, fun
with Dave Marshall
Si Witcher 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
pebbles 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S HVS 5a in ground up, which seems more appropriate to me - it didnt occur to either of us that this was a soft touch. First pitch is not 4b - Ground Up 4c grading seemed much more appropriate.Ground Up and Rockfax grading of traverse pitch seems correct at 5a(rather than 4c)with spaced protection for the crux moves, though might well feel easier than that for the tall. all of the pitches great quality, big exposure on the two traverse sections. continued up pinnacle wall (listed as one continuous link up route in Ground Up at hvs 5a) me p2,4,6, Megan p1,3,5
with megan beaumont
HVS 5a in ground up, which seems more appropriate to me - it didnt occur to either of us that this was a soft touch. First pitch is not 4b - Ground Up 4c grading seemed much more appropriate.Ground Up and Rockfax grading of traverse pitch seems correct at 5a(rather than 4c)with spaced protection for the crux moves, though might well feel easier than that for the tall. all of the pitches great quality, big exposure on the two traverse sections. continued up pinnacle wall (listed as one continuous link up route in Ground Up at hvs 5a) me p2,4,6, Megan p1,3,5
with megan beaumont
useful 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. The first move on P1 was basically the crux. P3's finger traverse was a lot easier than trying to avoid rope drag: watch out for the rope-grabbing crack as you exit the roof!
with Steve E
Led P1 and P3. The first move on P1 was basically the crux. P3's finger traverse was a lot easier than trying to avoid rope drag: watch out for the rope-grabbing crack as you exit the roof!
with Steve E
pimpy 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd lead 3rd pitch
with clare muir
lead 3rd pitch
with clare muir
Jim Slater 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1, P2 and P4. Highlight of the day, watching Alan go into scamper mode on the P2 traverse.
with James (Buxton MC), EarlyBird
Led P1, P2 and P4. Highlight of the day, watching Alan go into scamper mode on the P2 traverse.
with James (Buxton MC), EarlyBird
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd
egg-man 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Soil on hand traverse and lack of gear made it seem more like HVS
Soil on hand traverse and lack of gear made it seem more like HVS
stemill 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd P2+4. Well worth the walk in. Sustained and exposed - brilliant!
P2+4. Well worth the walk in. Sustained and exposed - brilliant!
Chris Manasseh 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd Led 1+3
with Ste Millington
Led 1+3
with Ste Millington
Rog Wilko 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd Quite a testing route for the grade. P 1 is bold and serious and harder than guidebook suggests. P 2 traverse is really hard too and quite serious. Good route though, especially when finished via Pinnacle Wall. P 2 made harder as the hand traverse was liberally sprinkled with dry soil like ball bearings.
with egg-man
Quite a testing route for the grade. P 1 is bold and serious and harder than guidebook suggests. P 2 traverse is really hard too and quite serious. Good route though, especially when finished via Pinnacle Wall. P 2 made harder as the hand traverse was liberally sprinkled with dry soil like ball bearings.
with egg-man
Hidden 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd
lithos 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd P2, P4 (possibly wrong groove - didn't go up the slab, quite tough!) We arrived another party had just started so we did Amphitheatre Buttress. Then abbed in from the large spike on the right (looking down by the holes in ground) 59m to the gully bed (past tat at 45m)
P2, P4 (possibly wrong groove - didn't go up the slab, quite tough!) We arrived another party had just started so we did Amphitheatre Buttress. Then abbed in from the large spike on the right (looking down by the holes in ground) 59m to the gully bed (past tat at 45m)
peterbradshaw101 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
Ows ?Jun, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S
kim.mulji 25 May, 2013 AltLd O/S I led pitch one. Wasn't sure quite how far left to start up, so started about 3m left of main ledge, and after initial climb up to ledge, traverse over is a bit scary with little protection. Pitch two is straight-forward, if you don't try and traverse high up by standing on the obvious ledge! Not fun with a large ruck-sac on! Led pitch three, and pumped out a bit trying to get some protection in before the step across, and ended up struggling a bit to establish myself on the ledge in the traverse.
I led pitch one. Wasn't sure quite how far left to start up, so started about 3m left of main ledge, and after initial climb up to ledge, traverse over is a bit scary with little protection. Pitch two is straight-forward, if you don't try and traverse high up by standing on the obvious ledge! Not fun with a large ruck-sac on! Led pitch three, and pumped out a bit trying to get some protection in before the step across, and ended up struggling a bit to establish myself on the ledge in the traverse.
Lawrence Dudley 5 May, 2013 AltLd
with Julian Prieto, Monkey_Alan
with Julian Prieto, Monkey_Alan
Monkey_Alan 5 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 & 4. Excellent route, but rather cold after we lost the sun on P2. Nobody else on the route, but watched a steady stream going up Amphitheatre Buttress.
Led P1 & 4. Excellent route, but rather cold after we lost the sun on P2. Nobody else on the route, but watched a steady stream going up Amphitheatre Buttress.
Julian Prieto 5 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P3
Led P3
cballard ??, 2013 -
Hidden 13 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
jayrenegade 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1+2 then P4. Finnsihed up pinical wall. Thought it was solid VS not HVS as in our guide, but Prav thought P3 was hard for the grade. One move wonder but difficult for VS.
with Prav
Led P1+2 then P4. Finnsihed up pinical wall. Thought it was solid VS not HVS as in our guide, but Prav thought P3 was hard for the grade. One move wonder but difficult for VS.
with Prav
themadbrown 21 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S My longest climbing day so far and a superb one. Thank god for the 'rock god' that is my climbing partner who hauled me up all but one? of the pitches! Climbed 6 pitches instead of the 4 in the guide book-the hefty hand traverse using the crack on the2/3 pitch was going well until a foot slip which actually landed me onthe right endofthe original pitch-handy! Def the most challenging climb ive done to date with great exposure and views over adjacent Ampitheatre ,which looked tiny!
My longest climbing day so far and a superb one. Thank god for the 'rock god' that is my climbing partner who hauled me up all but one? of the pitches! Climbed 6 pitches instead of the 4 in the guide book-the hefty hand traverse using the crack on the2/3 pitch was going well until a foot slip which actually landed me onthe right endofthe original pitch-handy! Def the most challenging climb ive done to date with great exposure and views over adjacent Ampitheatre ,which looked tiny!
Jams Crwca 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Did high level hand traverse on P2, seemed logical with good pro (poss 5a). The whole route is solid and hard going, loved P3 dangle then up to ledge!. Lead all pitches, with rucksack then finished up P'wall.
Did high level hand traverse on P2, seemed logical with good pro (poss 5a). The whole route is solid and hard going, loved P3 dangle then up to ledge!. Lead all pitches, with rucksack then finished up P'wall.
Hidden 20 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Bobby Pearson 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Very nice exposed route, although more like VS 4c
with Swifty, Bill Billingsley
Very nice exposed route, although more like VS 4c
with Swifty, Bill Billingsley
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
captain dringo ??, 2012 -
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
mes32 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Great route! Led pitch 3 and part of 4. Start of 3 with 'exposure snapping at heels' very exciting!
Great route! Led pitch 3 and part of 4. Start of 3 with 'exposure snapping at heels' very exciting!
chrisallan 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Falko 30 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S Third time for me but first for Steve. I have always hand traversed the higher diagonal line and directed Steve to do the same. Onlookers correctly pointed out that this is not how the route is described in the guidebook but Steve completed the diagonal line anyway. This probably increases the overall route grade to HVS.
with Steve M
Third time for me but first for Steve. I have always hand traversed the higher diagonal line and directed Steve to do the same. Onlookers correctly pointed out that this is not how the route is described in the guidebook but Steve completed the diagonal line anyway. This probably increases the overall route grade to HVS.
with Steve M
MoWalker3 30 Sep, 2011 -
with Cormac
with Cormac
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Becky E 30 Jul, 2011 2nd dog Enjoyed pitch 2, then it all went wrong - resorted to prussiks for the hard move onto the block/ledge on P3.
Enjoyed pitch 2, then it all went wrong - resorted to prussiks for the hard move onto the block/ledge on P3.
Graeme Hammond 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S excellent, wanted to this for ages, did in 3 pitches
with Becky E
excellent, wanted to this for ages, did in 3 pitches
with Becky E
Cuillin Calling 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd
teflonpete 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Exposed, committing and truly, truly excellent. Lead Pitches 1 and 3, Diccon led 2 and 4, then I led pitches 1 and 3 of Pinnacle wall to finish while Diccon did the scary walk along the sloping ledge (far more bravely than I seconded it!)
Exposed, committing and truly, truly excellent. Lead Pitches 1 and 3, Diccon led 2 and 4, then I led pitches 1 and 3 of Pinnacle wall to finish while Diccon did the scary walk along the sloping ledge (far more bravely than I seconded it!)
Graham Westbrook 23 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Rob Exile Ward 9 Jul, 2011 Lead Just beaten to the start by another party, which was a bit frustrating. The Amphitheatre has a fantastic mini-Alpine ambience.
with Sam Ward
Just beaten to the start by another party, which was a bit frustrating. The Amphitheatre has a fantastic mini-Alpine ambience.
with Sam Ward
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Mark Young 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Roger Cruse 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Mark
with Mark
Hidden ?Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
scorky345 24 May, 2011 AltLd
with tim20
with tim20
tim20 24 May, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Lenny 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with John
with John
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd
brockers 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
John Postlethwaite 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with liam
with liam
Adam Booth 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Cool climb. Rained half way.
with Tom Jumar
Cool climb. Rained half way.
with Tom Jumar
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 Lead
Will Hunt 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Led first pitch to open groove. Then alternating pitches after that.
Led first pitch to open groove. Then alternating pitches after that.
Hidden 3 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
pasbury ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Steve Woollard 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd
with Bob Dawson
with Bob Dawson
tedburt 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
with Aaron Burdett
monika paprzycka 3 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Matt, Axford Studios
with Matt, Axford Studios
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
Ed Griffin 26 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with A123
with A123
Hidden 25 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Pilch 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S A great route through steep terrain
with Mel
A great route through steep terrain
with Mel
runestone 3 May, 2010 Lead rpt
with Nic
with Nic
mikelaing ?May, 2010 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
with Ian Whitehead
Oliver Hill 15 Apr, 2010 Lead On the second pitch I took the 'higher of two traverse lines' This was a rising crack. After 20 feet of handtraversing I could find no way of stepping down, there were no footholds and it got harder. This clearly was not a VS. I continued using a somewhat suspect flake in the crack, which I assumed must be safe after so many ascents,eventually arriving at what transpired to be the correct 'perch' belay. I would highly recommend this variation, about E1 5b, 40 feet of sustained hand traversing on a sharp edge with minimal lichen covered footholds, well protected by med wires to start then 1.5 friend and later 2.5 friend. The rising traverse is clearly visible in photos leading directly to 4 feet above the perch belay. I imagine this variation is climbed by about 1 in 10 ropes as it is the most obvious traverse line, just above the correct horizontal ledges. What amazes me is that it is not in the guide book for one of the best hand traverse in Wales. OK, so I have not done all the other contenders --- no point now really.
On the second pitch I took the 'higher of two traverse lines' This was a rising crack. After 20 feet of handtraversing I could find no way of stepping down, there were no footholds and it got harder. This clearly was not a VS. I continued using a somewhat suspect flake in the crack, which I assumed must be safe after so many ascents,eventually arriving at what transpired to be the correct 'perch' belay. I would highly recommend this variation, about E1 5b, 40 feet of sustained hand traversing on a sharp edge with minimal lichen covered footholds, well protected by med wires to start then 1.5 friend and later 2.5 friend. The rising traverse is clearly visible in photos leading directly to 4 feet above the perch belay. I imagine this variation is climbed by about 1 in 10 ropes as it is the most obvious traverse line, just above the correct horizontal ledges. What amazes me is that it is not in the guide book for one of the best hand traverse in Wales. OK, so I have not done all the other contenders --- no point now really.
JiveWeasel 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd Whether this is top end of the VS graded list or bottom end of the HVS graded list doesn't matter much, this is not one to do as your first VS lead. As already mentioned by Mrs W, the crux is not so cruxy if you are tall, but there are still some vicious little cracks waiting above.
Whether this is top end of the VS graded list or bottom end of the HVS graded list doesn't matter much, this is not one to do as your first VS lead. As already mentioned by Mrs W, the crux is not so cruxy if you are tall, but there are still some vicious little cracks waiting above.
Mrs Weasel 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Great route. We had a truly epic day: what with taking walking in past llyn Eigiau and a few unintended detours it took us nearly 3 hours to the bottom of the climb. We got to the top (of the crag) in the dusk, with one torch, so took the (much) longer but safer route down, getting back to the rucksacks 3 hours later. Back to the car at 1am - but better than a night out! The climb itself was truly memorable -either top end VS or easy HVS. Pitch 1, not too tricky but no gear (me). Pitch 2 (5a) led by JW dead easy for him (6'3'') but terrifying for me at 5'4'' what with not being able to reach the top ledge from the bottom one. Pitch 3 (me) has a really scary traverse move with nothing under you except miles of empty air, and pitch 4 (JW) a tough little corner crack. We'd thought we should be able to ab down from the top - but it didn't seem like that good an idea when we were there so carried on up Pinnacle Wall.
Great route. We had a truly epic day: what with taking walking in past llyn Eigiau and a few unintended detours it took us nearly 3 hours to the bottom of the climb. We got to the top (of the crag) in the dusk, with one torch, so took the (much) longer but safer route down, getting back to the rucksacks 3 hours later. Back to the car at 1am - but better than a night out! The climb itself was truly memorable -either top end VS or easy HVS. Pitch 1, not too tricky but no gear (me). Pitch 2 (5a) led by JW dead easy for him (6'3'') but terrifying for me at 5'4'' what with not being able to reach the top ledge from the bottom one. Pitch 3 (me) has a really scary traverse move with nothing under you except miles of empty air, and pitch 4 (JW) a tough little corner crack. We'd thought we should be able to ab down from the top - but it didn't seem like that good an idea when we were there so carried on up Pinnacle Wall.
lucasp 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 & 3.
with Dave C (Lmc)
Led pitches 1 & 3.
with Dave C (Lmc)
Hidden 8 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 8 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Great climb, well worth its reputation as the best VS in Wales. The gully descent is quite desperate though...
with Mike Owen
Great climb, well worth its reputation as the best VS in Wales. The gully descent is quite desperate though...
with Mike Owen
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 31 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with John Evans
with John Evans
Daniel Wrightson 31 May, 2009 AltLd
with Steve Gould
with Steve Gould
jamie ward 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with simon fairman
with simon fairman
HimTiggins 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 & 4
with Paul
Pitches 2 & 4
with Paul
Conan 24 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Absolutely top class route. Top end VS.
with Philippa Reader
Absolutely top class route. Top end VS.
with Philippa Reader
alicia 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S I got the traverse pitch and the last pitch--all very nice
with Jamie
I got the traverse pitch and the last pitch--all very nice
with Jamie
Hidden 21 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Crofty 21 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Led P1,P4 and P5 (combined 4 and 5 together to save time. Guido led P2 and Pete led P3. Great climb. Rapped from Bilberry Ledge to base and climbed out via Amphitheatre Rib (Diff) 3 pitches. Then walked up Carnedd Llewellyn and down the opposite side, great views of Tryfan.
Led P1,P4 and P5 (combined 4 and 5 together to save time. Guido led P2 and Pete led P3. Great climb. Rapped from Bilberry Ledge to base and climbed out via Amphitheatre Rib (Diff) 3 pitches. Then walked up Carnedd Llewellyn and down the opposite side, great views of Tryfan.
Hidden 21 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 15 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 Lead
Danhan 14 Jun, 2008 2nd
Brown 24 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Bridget
with Bridget
bridget143 24 May, 2008 AltLd O/S I led first pitch, Dave the rest. Move onto 3rd pitch off belay is hard. Awsome route.
with Brown
I led first pitch, Dave the rest. Move onto 3rd pitch off belay is hard. Awsome route.
with Brown
Theeni 10 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Sven Hassel
with Sven Hassel
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2007 AltLd
The Bad Cough 11 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt
with John Nesbitt
Gman ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Eamon
with Eamon
JGW ?Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Matt Tilley
with Matt Tilley
BenTiffin ?May, 2007 AltLd
with Matt Collis
with Matt Collis
timmy-ts ??, 2007 -
fran04 ??, 2007 AltLd
KeithW 14 Oct, 2006 AltLd dog Had an off day, backed off 2nd pitch & wibbled for ages on the 3rd, then couldn't do the 5th. I hate climbing. :O
with Corky
Had an off day, backed off 2nd pitch & wibbled for ages on the 3rd, then couldn't do the 5th. I hate climbing. :O
with Corky
Hidden 14 Jun, 2006 AltLd
Si dH 4 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Andy Morris
with Andy Morris
AJM ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Si dH
with Si dH
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Stig 24 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Jonathan + Louise Teale
with Jonathan + Louise Teale
rob1 21 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Jonny Martin, andrew clark
with Jonny Martin, andrew clark
Chesh ?Aug, 2005 Lead
with ScotsPaul
with ScotsPaul
Hidden 16 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
runestone 11 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
with J
with J
duncana 5 Jun, 2005 2nd
with Pippa Archer
with Pippa Archer
runestone 17 May, 2005 Lead
Hidden ?May, 2005 AltLd O/S
Clucky 9 Sep, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Paul Dickson
with Paul Dickson
John Pickles 8 Sep, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Jon Bracey
with Jon Bracey
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 6 Jun, 2004 Lead dnf Too wet
with Rebecca
Too wet
with Rebecca
Jamie B ?Jun, 2004 AltLd One of the best routes I have ever done.
with Kris Quayle
One of the best routes I have ever done.
with Kris Quayle
Hidden 27 Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 Lead
Ann S ?Jun, 2003 2nd Bill led a rope of 4!! me somewhere in the middle.
with Bill Harrison/John Carlin/Shaun Shaughnessy
Bill led a rope of 4!! me somewhere in the middle.
with Bill Harrison/John Carlin/Shaun Shaughnessy
Mark Davies PK ?May, 2003 AltLd O/S
with steve c
with steve c
John Kettle ??, 2003 Lead
Hidden 3 Sep, 2002 AltLd
unfit 3 Sep, 2002 AltLd
with john Norman
with john Norman
Hidden 29 Mar, 2002 AltLd
Darragh ?Mar, 2002 - Top route.
with Rob
Top route.
with Rob
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ??, 2002 AltLd
with Jim Barradale
with Jim Barradale
NeilGriffiths 23 Sep, 2001 AltLd
with frost
with frost
frost ?Sep, 2001 -
with N Griffiths
with N Griffiths
Hidden 28 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 21 Jul, 2001 Solo
Bob M ?Jun, 2001 AltLd Superb day out when combined with Pinnacle Wall. Every bit as good as when I first did it in 1973.
with Jill Stevens
Superb day out when combined with Pinnacle Wall. Every bit as good as when I first did it in 1973.
with Jill Stevens
alan moore ??, 2000 - Superb and HVS. Going low on the traverse ( footledges and then a short hand traverse) is easier than guidebook description. This pitch is the technically easiest of the four.
Superb and HVS. Going low on the traverse ( footledges and then a short hand traverse) is easier than guidebook description. This pitch is the technically easiest of the four.
pauldrew ??, 2000 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 1999 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones 26 Sep, 1998 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?Sep, 1998 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
with Stuart Greenall
Brian Wilderspin 8 Aug, 1998 AltLd O/S We took mountain bikes up to the lake pushing most of the way up. Terrifyingly fast descent!!!
with Tony Clifford
We took mountain bikes up to the lake pushing most of the way up. Terrifyingly fast descent!!!
with Tony Clifford
Paul-Michael 18 Jul, 1998 AltLd O/S Lead 1st to the base of the V-groove, 3rd, & 5th piches.
with David Jupp
Lead 1st to the base of the V-groove, 3rd, & 5th piches.
with David Jupp
Hidden ?Jul, 1998 AltLd
zero six ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd O/S
dickypips ??, 1998 AltLd O/S what an out there climb for the grade.absolutely superb well worth the walk in.kicked myself ever since for not bothering to do the pinnacle wall finish
with john richards
what an out there climb for the grade.absolutely superb well worth the walk in.kicked myself ever since for not bothering to do the pinnacle wall finish
with john richards
John Marsland 14 Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S lead pitches 1 and 3
with Ian Manocha
lead pitches 1 and 3
with Ian Manocha
Richard Weller 19 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
with Simon Currin, Sally Currin
with Simon Currin, Sally Currin
Brian Rodgers ??, 1997 AltLd
with Dave Oldacres
with Dave Oldacres
Hidden 18 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ?Jul, 1996 Lead
Tim Bateman 15 Jun, 1996 AltLd
Dave Cundy ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Phil Caley
with Phil Caley
Iain Brown 9 Aug, 1995 -
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden 6 Aug, 1995 AltLd
Nigel R Lewis 20 Jul, 1995 2nd
with Gary Lewis
with Gary Lewis
runestone 1 Jan, 1995 AltLd
charlesmfrench 5 Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S 2,2,L,L,L.
2,2,L,L,L.
Cowflinger 17 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Hidden 13 Jun, 1994 AltLd
Budge ??, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
Derek Ryden ??, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
with Glynne Andrew
Roget 6 Jun, 1993 2nd O/S
with jon
with jon
steveboote ??, 1993 Lead
with Dave Dear
with Dave Dear
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
Rob Davies 1 May, 1990 Lead Exciting positions
with Angus McLean
Exciting positions
with Angus McLean
Ched ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Glyn
with Glyn
stewart murray ??, 1989 AltLd Led P1, P2, P4
with Martin Willey
Led P1, P2, P4
with Martin Willey
hazeysunshine ?Jul, 1987 2nd O/S
with Andy K
with Andy K
Nick Biven ??, 1986 -
Backinthegame ?Oct, 1985 Lead O/S With my Dad - great day out
with Dad
With my Dad - great day out
with Dad
Nigel Bond 16 Jun, 1985 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
RichardMc 16 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
with Angel Vila
Hidden 13 May, 1984 2nd
nigehughes ?Sep, 1982 Lead
with Jim Hindman
with Jim Hindman
Mark Kemball 16 Jul, 1982 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
babymoac 10 Jul, 1982 AltLd
with MTW & Paul R
with MTW & Paul R
leland stamper 7 Nov, 1981 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Sean Kelly ??, 1980 AltLd Done about 3 ascents of this fabulous climb.
with Bob Millward
Done about 3 ascents of this fabulous climb.
with Bob Millward
Hidden 20 May, 1979 AltLd
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1978 AltLd
with Steve Holgarth
with Steve Holgarth
mikej 29 Jul, 1977 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Mike Owen 15 Jul, 1977 Solo O/S solo
with Chester Dent
solo
with Chester Dent
Bolt Phobia 1 Jun, 1977 AltLd
with Steve Astington
with Steve Astington
Martin Bennett 15 May, 1977 -
with JD
with JD
Hidden 25 Aug, 1975 AltLd
Falko 8 Feb, 1975 Lead O/S Another Bill Briggs sandbag! I led pitches 1, 2 and 3 as one but did the higher-level rising hand-traverse to reach the perch belay! I have done this twice during the intervening years and was very grateful for the protection provided by a couple of small Friends in the hand traverse. No Friends in '75!
with Roger Edwards, Bill Briggs
Another Bill Briggs sandbag! I led pitches 1, 2 and 3 as one but did the higher-level rising hand-traverse to reach the perch belay! I have done this twice during the intervening years and was very grateful for the protection provided by a couple of small Friends in the hand traverse. No Friends in '75!
with Roger Edwards, Bill Briggs
Hidden 21 Jul, 1974 Lead
Bob M ?Aug, 1973 -
with John Dennis
with John Dennis
pneame ??, 1973 -
granitbahn ??, 1973 AltLd
jcw 17 Oct, 1965 -
with Ron James
with Ron James
uphillnow ?Jun, 1965 Lead also 18/7/2000
also 18/7/2000
231 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 76
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set