Rockfax Description
A super route which is well worth the effort required to get to the start. Follow Javelin Buttress to the thread, and spare a moment to remember that this was the last runner on the first ascent! Move left towards the arete and climb the shallow groove of 'the blade' to a mediocre wire or two. From here reach out right and tetter onto the arete of the blade - bold and precarious. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents.

craig.potter 27/Aug/17 2nd dog
Keith Swainson 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, gear, not so much. The RP I trusted fell out and a small cam in the same spot stayed in place at the 3rd time of asking.

Georgie25 27/Aug/17 2nd
Matt Schwarz 06/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Joe d
SimonWooden 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Mark Lewis, michael woolcott
waydan 17/Jun/17 2nd


foostu4 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
skinne 31/May/17 2nd dog

So annoyed that I went for the left arete at the crux and slipped off. Quality climb, and quality leading by Joe. Only slightly wet in places!

JoeFoster59 31/May/17 Lead O/S

It looked a bit wet from the top of tennis shoe but we went to take a look anyway. Javelin buttress was wet but the blade looked dry. My first run at it I worked my way up the groove with the last piece of pro about 5mts down at the start of the scoopp so I reversed the moves and found the goodish nut placement in the groove. After some tenuous moves I reached the awesome jug at the top. I thought the flake would hold a sling better but it couldn't get it to sit so I just ran it out to the top. Excellent extension to Tennis Shoe Direct. E1 sounds about right no hard climb just a balancey crux and a fun run out (especially if your last piece was in the groove).

with skinne
hlegge 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, more gear (small wires) than the description would suggest, but still pretty bold doing the crux over a pretty rubbish placement!

Johnathan 07/May/17 2nd dog
Dan Vaj 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Ben1983 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Nice moves into the groove, and a tricky bit of awkwardness to get established on the javelin above a suspect nut.

with Lorna Johnston
efrance24234 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
RKirke 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Stroppy 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Think I messed up the sequence/climbed the wrong part???

Alan James - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
SAF 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Phil
theotherpetehill 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
chrisallan 07/Aug/15 2nd O/S
smallerrich 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Was pretty awesome

with Swain16
JDSwain 07/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Rich Cannel
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/15 Lead
Ian Jones 23/Jul/15 2nd rpt

The crux for the short guy is, er, reaching the crux.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
pie_eater_pete 30/Jun/15 AltLd
kyaizawa 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Bold feeling and the wire at the crux didn't inspire too much confidence. Possibly traversed across the slab too early, thereby missing the thread runner...

Emma Reynolds 09/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Scary airy move! Ky got a bit lost...

Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Craigyboy13 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S

glad to second this one. but its a one move climb. if you can hold your nerve you'll find it straight forward. if all you can think about is that your thread is 5m below you then don't bother :)

wi11 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tom G, Tamsin
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead
Ewan Russell 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Halla
Dave Musgrove 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant pitch. One of the boldest E1s I've ever done. Great respect for Sir Jack.

with Bob Larkin
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
pasbury ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
ianstevens 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Sam Wainwright
Samuel Wainwright 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead
JamesWilliams 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Totally amazing ! what an awesome route to finish a 3 days in Snowdonia let alone Idwel slabs. Delicate and bold one of those routes you just have to commit to! cracking lead for the 30's

with Chris Hayes
rd20 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Hilary CC
NickJH 07/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with LiamG
Coel Hellier 11/Aug/12 Lead
with Pat
simonp ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Daymo 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Phil_Hall_97 30/Sep/11 2nd
with Alice Du Preeze, Dave Evans
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Ian Jones 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S

5c. An amazing lead for 1930. At least E3 without a wee nut in the groove!

with Roger Benton
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
david morse 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with lole
ollieben ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Seymore Butt ??/2011 2nd
with Mick Hafner
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
ollieben 25/Oct/10 2nd

amazing and pretty scary move with totally numb hands

Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Renegade_Pony 16/Aug/10 2nd
with barni
barni 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 29/Jun/10 Lead
with Steve
pauldrew 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Kevin Sales
Sam W 19/Jun/10 Lead
with Carissa
shaun walby 23/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with stuart Holmes
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Nicos 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Tobes ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Rach
mynyddresident ?/Jul/09 Lead
gregoldridge 28/Jun/09 2nd
with Nick Sharp
vanderz 12/Apr/09 AltLd
with Steve Fletcher
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
pauldrew 01/Jun/08 2nd
with Kevin Sales
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd rpt
chris wyatt 25/May/08 Lead O/S

'found very hard

jelaby 24/May/08 2nd β
with Nick Shuttleworth
HughM ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
AngelaC 06/Jun/06 2nd
with Rob
IOAN D 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with rob
stuart100 28/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Gary Stoker
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Adam Booth 16/Oct/05 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 16/Oct/05 Lead
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
akhughes ?/Apr/02 AltLd
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Bug ??/2001 2nd
alan moore ??/2001 -

Magic bit of Idwal history. Grey evening link up with East Wall Girdle. An eye opening excursion onto unpolished Ogwen Rock.

Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
iskra2000 01/Aug/99 2nd
with Matt Kingsley
Hidden 01/Aug/99 Lead O/S
iskra2000 14/Jun/96 2nd
with Duncan Hornby
Jon Read ?/Jun/96 -
with Glyn Stanworth & Dave Hollingham
michael burrows 19/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with pete bailey
AlanLittle ?/Aug/95 Lead

Found this not an easy E1 by any means. Respect, Sir Jack.

Nigel R Lewis 21/Jul/95 2nd
with Gary Lewis
pete johnson 25/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 09/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/93 2nd
Rob Davies 01/Jun/93 Lead dnf

Another retreat to finish up Javelin Buttress

Andy Say 12/Jun/92 Lead O/S
auld al 27/May/92 AltLd O/S
pingora 27/May/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
prcleary ??/1991 -

Approx date

mark-abz 23/Jun/90 Lead
with Charlie G
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
michael burrows 16/Jul/89 2nd
with steve ward
wynaptomos ?/May/88 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/87 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/Aug/87 Lead

A very good runner about 40ft below the crux!

with Alan Payne
charlesmfrench 25/May/87 2nd O/S
with Pog
uphillnow ?/May/87 Lead

cant recall party but Barry Clark and Martha did it behind us

Martin Bennett 24/Aug/86 -

Second stage

with IW
Mike Owen 28/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Alan ?, Richard ?
Hidden 29/Aug/85 Lead
nigehughes ?/Aug/84 2nd
with Ian Cameron
Rob Davies 19/Jul/83 Lead dnf

Another retreat to finish up Javelin Buttress

with Angus McLean
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 12/Jul/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 05/Jun/82 Lead
Nigel Bond 16/May/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
nniff ??/1982 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 Lead
with Andy Heald
Hidden ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Rob Davies 24/Jul/77 Lead dnf

Backed off this - did groove but couldn't make teetering long reach - finished up Javelin Buttress

mikej 07/Sep/75 TR
with Mike Byles
Tom V ??/1972 -
Hidden 01/Jul/69 -
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High 5c
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