Rockfax Description
A super route which is well worth the effort required to get to the start. Follow Javelin Buttress to the thread, and spare a moment to remember that this was the last runner on the first ascent! Move left towards the arete and climb the shallow groove of 'the blade' to a mediocre wire or two. From here reach out right and tetter onto the arete of the blade - bold and precarious. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

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North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 Sep -
jamieevans 9 Sep Lead rpt
Georgina Brooke 25 Aug 2nd O/S I padded up the corner of the crux but would have bricked it on lead. Pleased to do this clean.
I padded up the corner of the crux but would have bricked it on lead. Pleased to do this clean.
Philip Hawarden 25 Aug 2nd O/S
M_Robinson 25 Aug 2nd O/S
Lewis Perrin Williams 13 Aug Lead O/S Fun
with John Tatam
Fun
with John Tatam
matt peacey 15 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Apr Lead O/S
peakyclimber 19 Apr 2nd dog I fell at the crux on second. That corner and arete climbing is pretty tough.
I fell at the crux on second. That corner and arete climbing is pretty tough.
kevinkaraca 5 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Damp, bold, crap runners. But quite good climbing.
with Kev
Damp, bold, crap runners. But quite good climbing.
with Kev
AlistairBerridge 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Took a while to work out and commit to crux, spicier than expected!
with Jessipotts, Zach Cater
Took a while to work out and commit to crux, spicier than expected!
with Jessipotts, Zach Cater
Flavio 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 15 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
GaynorPaton 3 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Lovely route, committing at the crux but my feet stayed stuck to the rock much higher than I expected.
Lovely route, committing at the crux but my feet stayed stuck to the rock much higher than I expected.
Hidden 26 Jun, 2018 2nd
Graeme Hammond 26 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
eduardo 11 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Spicy crux! Good lead from Kieran
Spicy crux! Good lead from Kieran
kieraneason 11 Jun, 2018 Lead Second ever e1. Had to down climb slightly after first attempt at Crux to clear the pump. Weighted the rope slightly so no onsight :-( Saw the crucial missing foothold whilst shaking my arms out!
Second ever e1. Had to down climb slightly after first attempt at Crux to clear the pump. Weighted the rope slightly so no onsight :-( Saw the crucial missing foothold whilst shaking my arms out!
JamesWilliams 20 May, 2018 Lead rpt great bold climbing
with JamesA
great bold climbing
with JamesA
Hidden 20 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 12 May, 2018 2nd rpt
mskngch 12 May, 2018 Lead
with pingora
with pingora
bruce ??, 2018 -
mike smash ??, 2018 2nd
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Steve Long ??, 2018 Lead O/S
craig.potter 27 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
Keith Swainson 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Brilliant route, gear, not so much. The RP I trusted fell out and a small cam in the same spot stayed in place at the 3rd time of asking.
Brilliant route, gear, not so much. The RP I trusted fell out and a small cam in the same spot stayed in place at the 3rd time of asking.
Georgie25 27 Aug, 2017 2nd
Matt Schwarz 6 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
SimonWooden 3 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Mark Lewis, michael woolcott
with Mark Lewis, michael woolcott
waydan 17 Jun, 2017 2nd Bold
Bold
foostu4 13 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
skinne 31 May, 2017 2nd dog So annoyed that I went for the left arete at the crux and slipped off. Quality climb, and quality leading by Joe. Only slightly wet in places!
So annoyed that I went for the left arete at the crux and slipped off. Quality climb, and quality leading by Joe. Only slightly wet in places!
JoeFoster59 31 May, 2017 Lead O/S It looked a bit wet from the top of tennis shoe but we went to take a look anyway. Javelin buttress was wet but the blade looked dry. My first run at it I worked my way up the groove with the last piece of pro about 5mts down at the start of the scoopp so I reversed the moves and found the goodish nut placement in the groove. After some tenuous moves I reached the awesome jug at the top. I thought the flake would hold a sling better but it couldn't get it to sit so I just ran it out to the top. Excellent extension to Tennis Shoe Direct. E1 sounds about right no hard climb just a balancey crux and a fun run out (especially if your last piece was in the groove).
with skinne
It looked a bit wet from the top of tennis shoe but we went to take a look anyway. Javelin buttress was wet but the blade looked dry. My first run at it I worked my way up the groove with the last piece of pro about 5mts down at the start of the scoopp so I reversed the moves and found the goodish nut placement in the groove. After some tenuous moves I reached the awesome jug at the top. I thought the flake would hold a sling better but it couldn't get it to sit so I just ran it out to the top. Excellent extension to Tennis Shoe Direct. E1 sounds about right no hard climb just a balancey crux and a fun run out (especially if your last piece was in the groove).
with skinne
hlegge 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S Fantastic route, more gear (small wires) than the description would suggest, but still pretty bold doing the crux over a pretty rubbish placement!
Fantastic route, more gear (small wires) than the description would suggest, but still pretty bold doing the crux over a pretty rubbish placement!
Johnathan 7 May, 2017 2nd dog
with hlegge
with hlegge
Dan Vaj 22 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
Mc Donald 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Bryce
with Bryce
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Ben1983 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
LornaJ93 10 Sep, 2016 2nd
JoeCoxson 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Nice moves into the groove, and a tricky bit of awkwardness to get established on the javelin above a suspect nut.
Nice moves into the groove, and a tricky bit of awkwardness to get established on the javelin above a suspect nut.
efrance24234 9 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S
RKirke 20 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 20 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S Think I messed up the sequence/climbed the wrong part???
with RKirke
Think I messed up the sequence/climbed the wrong part???
with RKirke
Alan James - UKC and UKH 27 Sep, 2015 Lead
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
chrisallan 7 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
smallerrich 7 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Was pretty awesome
with JDSwain
Was pretty awesome
with JDSwain
JDSwain 7 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Rich Cannel
with Rich Cannel
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2015 Lead
Ian Jones 23 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt The crux for the short guy is, er, reaching the crux.
with Dan Moore (DCD)
The crux for the short guy is, er, reaching the crux.
with Dan Moore (DCD)
pie_eater_pete 30 Jun, 2015 AltLd
kyaizawa 9 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Bold feeling and the wire at the crux didn't inspire too much confidence. Possibly traversed across the slab too early, thereby missing the thread runner...
Bold feeling and the wire at the crux didn't inspire too much confidence. Possibly traversed across the slab too early, thereby missing the thread runner...
Emma Reynolds 9 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Scary airy move! Ky got a bit lost...
Scary airy move! Ky got a bit lost...
Scooter Young ??, 2015 Lead
Craigyboy13 12 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S glad to second this one. but its a one move climb. if you can hold your nerve you'll find it straight forward. if all you can think about is that your thread is 5m below you then don't bother :)
glad to second this one. but its a one move climb. if you can hold your nerve you'll find it straight forward. if all you can think about is that your thread is 5m below you then don't bother :)
wi11 5 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Tom G, Tamsin
with Tom G, Tamsin
Hidden 28 Jul, 2014 Lead
Ewan Russell 23 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Halla
with Halla
Dave Musgrove 24 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant pitch. One of the boldest E1s I've ever done. Great respect for Sir Jack.
with Bob Larkin
Brilliant pitch. One of the boldest E1s I've ever done. Great respect for Sir Jack.
with Bob Larkin
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 2nd
Hidden 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
pasbury ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Bob ??, 2014 -
ianstevens 29 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
with Sam Wainwright
with Sam Wainwright
Samuel Wainwright 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2013 Lead
JamesWilliams 19 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Totally amazing ! what an awesome route to finish a 3 days in Snowdonia let alone Idwel slabs. Delicate and bold one of those routes you just have to commit to! cracking lead for the 30's
with Chris Hayes
Totally amazing ! what an awesome route to finish a 3 days in Snowdonia let alone Idwel slabs. Delicate and bold one of those routes you just have to commit to! cracking lead for the 30's
with Chris Hayes
rd20 13 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Hilary CC
with Hilary CC
NickJH 7 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf
with LiamG
with LiamG
Coel Hellier 11 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Pat
with Pat
simonp ?May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Daymo 15 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 30 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Phil_Hall_97 30 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Alice Du Preeze, Dave Evans
with Alice Du Preeze, Dave Evans
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead
Ian Jones 22 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S 5c. An amazing lead for 1930. At least E3 without a wee nut in the groove!
with Roger Benton
5c. An amazing lead for 1930. At least E3 without a wee nut in the groove!
with Roger Benton
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
david morse 10 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with lole
with lole
ollieben ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Seymore Butt ??, 2011 2nd
with Mick Hafner
with Mick Hafner
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mwatson ??, 2011 -
ollieben 25 Oct, 2010 2nd amazing and pretty scary move with totally numb hands
amazing and pretty scary move with totally numb hands
Hidden 1 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Renegade_Pony 16 Aug, 2010 2nd
with barni
with barni
barni 16 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 29 Jun, 2010 Lead
with Steve
with Steve
pauldrew 20 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
Sam W 19 Jun, 2010 Lead
with Bella
with Bella
shaun walby 23 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
with stuart Holmes
with stuart Holmes
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden 9 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Tobes ?Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rach
with Rach
mynyddresident ?Jul, 2009 Lead
gregoldridge 28 Jun, 2009 2nd
with Nick Sharp
with Nick Sharp
vanderz 12 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Steve Fletcher
with Steve Fletcher
Hidden 10 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
pauldrew 1 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
tumbling wizard ?Jun, 2008 -
Hidden 31 May, 2008 2nd rpt
chris wyatt 25 May, 2008 Lead O/S 'found very hard
'found very hard
jelaby 24 May, 2008 2nd β
with Nick Shuttleworth
with Nick Shuttleworth
HughM ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
with notgnarly
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
jamieevans 7 Sep, 2007 Lead dog
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 2nd
AngelaC 6 Jun, 2006 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
IOAN D 28 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with rob
with rob
stuart100 28 Apr, 2006 Lead rpt
with Gary Stoker
with Gary Stoker
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Adam Booth 16 Oct, 2005 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 16 Oct, 2005 Lead
bigie bob ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 2nd
Hidden 10 May, 2003 Lead O/S
akhughes ?Apr, 2002 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2002 -
Bug ??, 2001 2nd
alan moore ??, 2001 - Magic bit of Idwal history. Grey evening link up with East Wall Girdle. An eye opening excursion onto unpolished Ogwen Rock.
Magic bit of Idwal history. Grey evening link up with East Wall Girdle. An eye opening excursion onto unpolished Ogwen Rock.
Ed Booth ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 1999 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 9 Jul, 1997 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 9 Jul, 1997 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 1996 2nd
Jon Read ?Jun, 1996 Lead O/S Must have missed some gear, I remember if felt extremely bold (more like E3).
with Glyn Stanworth & Dave Hollingham
Must have missed some gear, I remember if felt extremely bold (more like E3).
with Glyn Stanworth & Dave Hollingham
tmawer ??, 1996 Lead O/S Date a guess.
with Andy Taylor
Date a guess.
with Andy Taylor
michael burrows 19 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with pete bailey
with pete bailey
AlanLittle ?Aug, 1995 Lead Found this not an easy E1 by any means. Respect, Sir Jack.
Found this not an easy E1 by any means. Respect, Sir Jack.
Nigel R Lewis 21 Jul, 1995 2nd
with Gary Lewis
with Gary Lewis
pete johnson 25 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden 9 Jul, 1994 Lead
Hidden 17 Aug, 1993 2nd
Rob Davies 1 Jun, 1993 Lead dnf Another retreat to finish up Javelin Buttress
Another retreat to finish up Javelin Buttress
D Tempest 22 May, 1993 Lead O/S
with Michelle
with Michelle
D Tempest 22 May, 1993 2nd
with Michelle
with Michelle
Andy Say 12 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
auld al 27 May, 1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 May, 1992 Lead O/S
neilmclean ??, 1992 Lead
prcleary ??, 1991 - Approx date
Approx date
mark-abz 23 Jun, 1990 Lead
with Charlie G
with Charlie G
Nick Rundall ??, 1990 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
michael burrows 16 Jul, 1989 2nd
with steve ward
with steve ward
Neil McA 28 May, 1988 Lead O/S Quite bold and tricky!
with Geraldine Westrup
Quite bold and tricky!
with Geraldine Westrup
wynaptomos ?May, 1988 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 1987 Lead
Sean Kelly ?Aug, 1987 Lead A very good runner about 40ft below the crux!
with Alan Payne
A very good runner about 40ft below the crux!
with Alan Payne
charlesmfrench 25 May, 1987 2nd O/S
with Pog
with Pog
uphillnow ?May, 1987 Lead cant recall party but Barry Clark and Martha did it behind us
cant recall party but Barry Clark and Martha did it behind us
Martin Bennett 24 Aug, 1986 - Second stage
with IW
Second stage
with IW
Mike Owen 28 Jun, 1986 Lead O/S
with Alan ?, Richard ?
with Alan ?, Richard ?
Hidden 29 Aug, 1985 Lead
nigehughes ?Aug, 1984 2nd
with Ian Cameron
with Ian Cameron
Rick51 24 Apr, 1984 Lead
Rob Davies 19 Jul, 1983 Lead dnf Another retreat to finish up Javelin Buttress
with Angus McLean
Another retreat to finish up Javelin Buttress
with Angus McLean
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 12 Jul, 1982 Lead
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 5 Jun, 1982 Lead
Nigel Bond 16 May, 1982 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1982 Lead
with Andy Heald
with Andy Heald
Hidden ??, 1980 -
robinsi197 ??, 1980 -
with Barbara
with Barbara
Rob Davies 24 Jul, 1977 Lead dnf Backed off this - did groove but couldn't make teetering long reach - finished up Javelin Buttress
Backed off this - did groove but couldn't make teetering long reach - finished up Javelin Buttress
mikej 7 Sep, 1975 TR
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Tom V ??, 1972 -
Hidden 1 Jul, 1969 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set