22m. Start just right of the crack of Caveman and boldly climb the gnarled slab to the ramp and runners. Continue in the same leftward-trending line, crossing Caveman and the Lunar Landscape crack; then make thin, bold moves to gain horizontal cracks. Continue more easily, but on increasingly vegetated ground, to saplings.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 19/Apr/2002

ssutton 15/Jul Lead
martin one 15/Jul 2nd O/S
with ssutton
DanJennings 14/Jul Lead

Pretty good.

with Tom
TGHB 14/Jul 2nd dog

I'm a clumsy oaf who can't place his feet correctly

SPatrick 02/Jul TR O/S
with Joe
JoeGross 02/Jul Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jul 2nd O/S
AngelaC 24/Jun 2nd

Nice climb but another tough for grade VS along with Caveman

oli87 15/Jun Lead O/S
markfromstoke 13/Jun -
with Adrian, Steve N
Jan Hofheiz 09/Jun Lead
with Sue
AndySL 25/May Lead O/S
with Justin
justinboynton 25/May 2nd O/S
with Andy
BurnerOfBiggerThings 09/May 2nd
steve_gibbs 23/Apr 2nd rpt
with Rob
Hidden 10/Apr 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 10/Apr Lead O/S
Steve Webster 08/Apr 2nd rpt
with Adrian Daniels
cavemancolumbus 08/Apr Lead
with Oli
Adrian Daniels 08/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Apr TR
RJLeish 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Stanners 08/Sep/16 2nd O/S

good to Leishman on lead

Paul Baller 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
ngreen 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead
George.Rowland 18/Jun/16 Lead

A few small run outs but nothing really scary; decent gear when it arrives. Not sure there are any 5a moves...more like HVS 4c? (found this technically easy-ish but bold in places).

with Bob Peters, Joe
Bob Peters 18/Jun/16 2nd
Trisha Murphy 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Kate
Gingerlings ?/Jun/16 2nd
with Trisha
Hidden 24/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead rpt
Claireybloomers 23/May/16 2nd
with Andy
andy dunn 23/May/16 Lead
with Claire
Robin Woodward ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Jenny Dart ?/May/16 2nd
with Robin
Tom courtiour 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Steve Bartle 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Great, delicate moves and good gear

Hidden 19/Mar/16 TR
dbm 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Richard Taylor, Michael Unwin, Kate Midgley
MoWalker3 01/Jan/16 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Oct/15 TR
Rob Morgan 26/Sep/15 2nd
with Win-yei
Win-yei 26/Sep/15 Lead
with Rob
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

The guidebook doesn't say it's bold... There's no gear until the ramp! I was glad to have the mat. Probably not the best choice for a warm up on damp slimy rock. The runnel above the ledge was horrible, wet grass in everything.

redhead_climber 06/Sep/15 2nd O/S
felixizzy 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Pretty sure this should be hvs considering there's no gear on the hard bits.

with Soph
Hidden 08/Aug/15 TR
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
lakeyross 19/Jul/15 2nd O/S

followed Jon boy up this one. It was Jon's first proper VS lead. well done mate. you love the slab now!

clipskipper 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Scott
Hidden 18/Jul/15 -
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
91dave 11/Jul/15 2nd rpt
cameron_hall 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
trevor macalonan 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Richy
catty_9 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Cat
miriamclaire 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May/15 2nd
Steve Woollard 17/May/15 Lead
with Donald
crater 17/May/15 2nd O/S
with steve
cdpuk 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd
sideshow84 10/May/15 Lead β

With pre placed gear.

Fatclimber 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Deako 04/May/15 2nd
Ollie Wickham 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Mackie
markfromstoke 07/Apr/15 Lead
with Luke
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Solo
Echna 28/Sep/14 Solo rpt
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 25/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 2nd
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ian d f 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Steve Needs
91dave 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Went off route at the top as it started to rain.. made a beeline for trees to sling on the next route across.

with Hester Robertson, Kerry Mellor
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
spenser 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
lazzaw 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A bold (if technically easy) start.

with Mick, Jonathan Cook
TimCul 29/Jun/14 Lead
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
gregclarke 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Ygraine, Greg Clarke
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jana
Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 Lead
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 2nd
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Ric
felixizzy 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Scary top out when the mud's wet but a good climb.

Steve Webster 05/May/14 Lead
Adrian Daniels 05/May/14 2nd
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
RichyBOYY 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 19/Mar/14 Lead
mikehenesy 24/Nov/13 Lead

Soddin slab climbing, nowt to swing off, already backed off the one next to it. Actually it was bloody good, bring it on!

with Harriet
richardsavill 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
sarahrowlands 07/Oct/13 2nd
Easty14 05/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Ali.B 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with johnevans
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Lee
johnl 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford
Adam Perrett 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

On preplaced gear

with Sarah Perrett
katemurphy_@hotmail 23/Aug/13 Lead
fishinwater 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Chris W
Lizzie Randall 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Wendy
wilf 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S

drifted R onto glacial point so retreated and finished up top half of caveman. stupid boy buy local guidebook.

with Tom
The Ivanator 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Led on Alan's gear. Did the proper line this time.

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt

No gear until you step onto the rising ramp.

with Ivan
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/13 2nd
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Much easier than its neighbour but still very good

with Alan
onlyfoddington 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I think I may have strayed left on the final slab (after looking at the topo) - was pretty blank up there and massively run out above poor gear...

mick1jones 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

No gear for first 25 feet

with Mike Guttridge
timstyles 12/Jul/13 2nd rpt
jon bradley 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Tim Styles
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Hidden 24/May/13 Lead O/S
sonic46 05/May/13 Lead
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 19/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Nix33 ??/2013 -
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Martin Bennett 01/Sep/12 -
with AlanB
MarkRyder 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Mark
cpoad 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Start bold

with John S
Gibbo 17/Jun/12 Lead
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
katherinesydney 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with bill naylor, mike kann
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/12 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 23/May/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
Samuel P 16/May/12 2nd O/S
with Niels, Tommy
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 2nd
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With the Caveman start, and gear in situ.

with Mick
Poco Loco 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Start is hard VS, after some gear is in its ok. Not sure if I was on route for the top half, the line is not too obvious. Fun nevertheless.

with R. Horler
Steve Woollard 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Joe Bellows
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Brian
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Actually did the first part of Caveman up the crack by accident. Attempted to lead but didn't get to the first ledge so Hannah lead it. Cloudy and started to drizzle a little bit.

with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
richiebongo 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
riddle 27/Aug/11 2nd
with Yasmina
The Ivanator 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Crux sequence moving up from the lunar landscape fault (through blankish section just below and right of the little sapling at two thirds height) is tricky and run out (I placed a side runner in what I think is the upper crack of Caveman, but was still facing a sizable pendulum slither) nearly came off when I committed to a move to an unexpectedly poor crimp. The hardest VS I've done at Fairy Cave, quite a bold start too. Addendum (in light of new guide) Turns out I did the start of JP and the upper section of Glacial Point (reckon the line I climbed was around E1 5b, I'm calling it the Jiggery Point variant). Worthwhile.

with Craig
DreadyCraig 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ivan B
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
timstyles 27/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
riddle 11/Jun/11 Solo O/S
carl_123 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Phil RAF
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd
blum 08/May/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Starks
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Will Gordon ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 27/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Clare
Bob M 26/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt

To check the line and measure the route. The logical line is to leave good holds and make a tricky 5a sequence diagonally left then up to the ledge. Top end VS 5a.

with Shunt
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt

New description needed. Bold at start, and hard and bold leftwards crux to reach runnel.

with Tom 2
tommyt82uk 27/Mar/11 Lead dog

Really hard crux

Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 31/Jan/11 TR rpt

To check the line. The runnel is a bit to the left of the start.

with Shunt
Mr Tickle 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Definitly jigged and poked

with davenev
davenev 22/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with luke
Dan Stel ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Gibbo 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Gibbison
arandall 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Isaac Whitcombe
arandall 19/Sep/10 Lead β
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd rpt
crossdressingrodney 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with jon
Jonny M 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Helnorris 30/Aug/10 2nd
Bobling 30/Aug/10 Lead

Thanks for the positive belaying Steve. Not : )

with Helen, sredmond
stvredmond 30/Aug/10 2nd

weldone to rob on this one, the holds got quite small in the mid section, or was rob off route, either way its a toughey

Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/Aug/10 2nd
Didymus 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Nick
Graham C 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Marti
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead β
kiwi boy 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

great slab climbing like a rat up a drainpipe. recommended

with phil
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
JJMOZ 01/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Greg Pittam 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Amy Laverock
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd O/S
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 09/May/09 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/May/09 Lead O/S
joeurwin 03/May/09 2nd O/S
with alex & Dan Bruniges
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd rpt
upontop 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
greedo 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Steve Marriott
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead
cas smerdon 11/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead
Ugly Kid Jo 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Skinny
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead
Mark Davies PK 18/Sep/07 Solo
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Onions 04/Aug/07 Lead dog

Hmmm, first 8m is the crux with minimal foot holds it'd be easier to shoot straight up to the large crack rather than faff with gear. I pulled on a couple of nuts after putting them in as my legs were knackered. Curse these flimsy things!!!

with Neville Contractor
Ali3735 ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Andy M, Tim W
Jen79 ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Matt Tranter
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
Dan B 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Hidden 18/Apr/07 Lead
Ybot Htulk ??/2007 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 03/Nov/06 2nd rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 03/Nov/06 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Jon Miles
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 Lead dog

fell just short of runnel. Doh. Bashed up it strait after don't know why i fell off.

Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
just one more 09/Jun/06 Lead
with rich h, Max B
Paul Robertson 26/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Easier than it looks.

with Ben Friedland
bpmclimb 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 24/Apr/06 2nd
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/05 2nd
James Moyle 01/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 14/Sep/04 2nd
guy xavier percival 17/Aug/04 Solo O/S
with none
just one more 15/Jun/04 Lead
with karen b, Max B
just one more 29/May/04 Lead
with john + suzi, Max B
timstyles 13/May/04 Lead O/S

Started on Caveman either by accident or because the protection was better.

Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Mark Davies PK ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Francis Lickerish
Mark Stevenson 05/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead
8 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set