Rockfax Description
One of the longer lines on the wall that features a tough section on the final headwall. Start below an ivy patch. Climb to a rope thread. Ascend the wall on the left of the ivy patch and continue past the right side of an overhang at two-thirds height. Climb the steep headwall with difficulty to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start below a large in-situ thread. Climb the lower wall more directly than you might think (you can shimmy left at the third bolt) to a hands free rest at the break. Climb directly through the roof, making a hard clip, to get increasingly pumped before a desperate slap to finish.
The big holds on the trad route to the right are out if you want to claim 7b but do make it a more consistent route.
M J Crocker 25/Nov/1990.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Brean Down Sports Climbs , Recommended 7's , 7Bs with stars near Bristol , Unfinished Businesses , Bristol Sport Pyramid , Best of Bristol Sport , Brean Sport Climbs , Cianchi's Hit List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| alexpantelides | 8 Feb, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2nd rp - direct finish. great route and seems cleaner than previous reports. Bottom is techy crimpy climbing, followed by a no hands rest, directly into a solid boulder problem | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 2nd rp - direct finish. great route and seems cleaner than previous reports. Bottom is techy crimpy climbing, followed by a no hands rest, directly into a solid boulder problem |
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| Steve Claw | 3 Dec, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Take the headwall direct following the bolts, its about a grade easier if you go off to the trad route on the right, then swing back. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Take the headwall direct following the bolts, its about a grade easier if you go off to the trad route on the right, then swing back. |
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| Wise | 22 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder, better and on route without the big chalky sidepulls to the right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Harder, better and on route without the big chalky sidepulls to the right. |
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| plant_based_tommo | 10 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: solo up loose rock past mud and goat poo to reach manky thread. levitate up weird crimpy section on increasingly poor holds. stand on ledge for a while praying that you do it this time and never need to come here again. use the big chalky sidepull jugs out right for the top crux. if you eliminate these and climb the line of the bolts direct, give yourself 7c imho. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: solo up loose rock past mud and goat poo to reach manky thread. levitate up weird crimpy section on increasingly poor holds. stand on ledge for a while praying that you do it this time and never need to come here again. use the big chalky sidepull jugs out right for the top crux. if you eliminate these and climb the line of the bolts direct, give yourself 7c imho. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Brean Down
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Chiming for You
Grade: 7b ***
(Uphill Quarry)