UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

25m.

Rockfax Description
The undulating full-height flake crack in the centre of the wall is a great line that features sustained and well-protected climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The left facing corner. The guide book doesn't mention (though it does imply) that this is the stonkin' great crack that travels the full height of the crag.

M. Ward, R. Kingston, P. Begley 31/Jul/1984.

Ticklists

Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 124
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 118
Votes cast 112
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zelda

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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