Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Technical and bold climbing up the wall. Start at some mottled rock. Climb the thin crack and continue to under the final wall. Move left and take the safest line to finish through the yew tree! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the white spotted pedestal at the left of the bay and climb directly up keeping the large crack to your right (gear). Mount the ledge and climb up behind the tree (using branches for aide). Abseil station out right (shared with adjacent routes).
Ticklists
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| simoncov | 23 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really surprised to see this graded HVS. It is markedly easier than Peace in Our Time (to its right), Emotional Dyslexia, or even Falacy, which are all low/mid HVS at most. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really surprised to see this graded HVS. It is markedly easier than Peace in Our Time (to its right), Emotional Dyslexia, or even Falacy, which are all low/mid HVS at most. |
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| afshapes | 8 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I was expecting bold climbing but pretty much laced it. It's slightly run out near the top but on good holds. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I was expecting bold climbing but pretty much laced it. It's slightly run out near the top but on good holds. |
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| DaveX | 18 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt fairly bold in places. Good holds throughout and good feet, gear sometimes needed seeking out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Felt fairly bold in places. Good holds throughout and good feet, gear sometimes needed seeking out. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Bitter Battle Tears
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)