Rockfax Description
The central line of weakness in the suspended white and pink wall is brilliant. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall, as for Pink Ginsane.
1) 5a, 30m. As for Pink Ginsane, then traverse right to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt at the top off Krapp's Last Tape.
2) 6a, 25m. Move left from the spike belay to a steep wall below a small overhang with two bolts in it. Climb with difficulty past the bolts and over the left end of the overhang to an easing and a peg at the base of a long groove. Climb the groove to a bolt and stretch past it to a better series of cracks that are climbed to a belay ledge and tree.
3) 5c, 14m. Move left along the break to below a right-slanting thin crack with a peg near its base. Climb past the peg and continue a short distance before better holds lead leftwards up the wall away from the crack to the top and a tree belay. © Rockfax

R Harrison (After F E Bennett, P Lennard climbed The Pink Link at A3 in 13/Feb/1965 the aid was further reduced in 1971) 04/Dec/1977

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

tobydunford 04/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
kenneM 20/Apr/17 2nd

Hard - new guide has it at E4 and that is probably fair enough. I lead Krapp's Last Tape and this this was Chris' lead - thankfully!!

with Chris
Stanners 27/Mar/17 Lead dnf

I knew I shouldn't of gone for it! I wasn't commited from leaving the belay (post Krapps last tape). Too thirsty, too hot, too tired, needed a wee. 'Had a go' and started entering the groove, but the mindset wasnt there so rather than pull harder and fight the pump I jumped into the air. Good falling experience to be fair! Something I really must return to and feels well within my ability to get first go next time. Shame I blew the onsight but always good to get some falling practice in. Retired to redpoint for a burger and pint !

Hidden 25/Mar/17 AltLd RP
Martin Bagshaw 25/Mar/17 AltLd dog

Messed up getting into the groove, in spite of watching Michaels redpoint on p2. Guess I couldn't see his hands. A really good route, one worth coming back for.

quiffhanger 24/Sep/16 AltLd

Lead P2&P3 (strung together). Ambitiously started about 90mins before sunset & just managed to top out in reasonable light. Peter wasn't so lucky but had at least prepared for nightfall by climbing in his pyjamas. Great route. Well psyched for Pink Ginseng!

Pippa 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/16 2nd RP
Nick Russell 26/May/16 Lead G/U

Climbed after Krapp's Last Tape, which was quite a contrast! I led both pitches. The second has a bit to it, but it's very short-lived. I bit miffed to fluff up the onsight, at the obvious place (first crux). Relegated to 'ground up' which is probably legit as I ended up back at the start of the pitch anyway (that category can hide all manner of ills!).

No? Yes! 17/May/16 2nd dog

Footholds bit slippy, rested couple of times on 1st pitch.Good leads by Rob - in light rain on top pitch too. Curiously that one stayed relatively dry.

Hidden 12/May/16 AltLd O/S
Wendy 12/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Sash.C
Ellis Bird 01/May/16 Lead O/S
ian d f 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2, got very pumped

pearson9596 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 27/Sep/15 Lead RP

Fell off at the crux, flash pump. Climbed it from the belay- felt fine on the second attempt.

with Evan
LRob 03/Jun/15 Lead
climbomaniac 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Awesome!! The bolts take some of the adventure away (I still clipped them...)

i_a_coops 29/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Who needs the Verdon!

with remus
Hidden 29/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
LucasHarazin 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Second L1, Led L2

just one more 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Found the 2nd pitch pretty well as hard as the first,pumpy finger locks

Avon Man 11/May/14 Lead dnf
with msoldn
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alex Winter 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch. Two stiff sections next to bolts, separated by a good rest. About 6c+. I didn't think the second pitch was much easier than the first, there were a fierce couple of moves up the crack. The Krapp's/Think Pink link-up is brilliant.

with Andy
AJM 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Alex led the main pitch from the Krapps belay, tough climbing, my foot popped once but held it. I got the top pitch which was a punchy little number, tough sting in the tail. The classic Main Wall linkup!

Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
captain ??/2013 -
Garrouli 31/Aug/12 Lead

Was a little psyched out after Krapps tape and fell off after a silly mistake heading up to the roof - felt O.K. after doing it correctly. F6c?

with Northern Pete
Pete Rigby 31/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Gary
Mike Goldthorp 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Really tough moves on crimpy flakes with bolt protection, and then a bit of respite but still tough. Cailean did well to link both pitches, as the 2nd is no pushover with a couple of slippery fingerlocking 6a moves, juicy!

Cailean Harker 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Seconded Mike up Kraps and then led the top two pitches in one! awesome.

gb05 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Mike led Kraps for first pitch, then Cailean led pitch 2 & 3 of think pink in one.

with Mike Goldthorp, Cailean Harker
Ed Babs 28/Jul/12 AltLd β

Alt lead dog previously with Marti. The crux is hard. Even the moodle had to stop to work it out.

Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd dog
Mark Warnett ?/May/12 Lead dog


with Princess Diana
Marti999 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

did Krapp's as first pitch

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead
with Alex Haslehurst
Misha 13/Nov/11 Lead

Seconded Phil up Krapps to start - leading it 4 weeks earlier and having a rope above made for a pleasant warm up! The crux past the bolt and over the overlap was powerful and pumpy and spat me off twice on the second bolt. Once I got the feet sorted I was able to get the half decent handholds above the overlap but it was still a fight to get established in the groove. Moving up to and past the last bolt was also tricky but managed it ok. Just below the ledge made a short detour leftwards to avoid the prickly bush in the groove. It's almost a sport pitch as the hard bits are protected by good staples but somehow still has a trad feel. I'd say it's pushing 7a. Was fairly knackered but Phil kindly offered me the top pitch as he was also pretty spent. A nice E1 5c - glad the 5c bit wasn't sustained! Being able to downclimb after placing gear for the crux also helped. Started around 12.30 - 1pm after a leisurely morning and topped out around 5pm, shortly before it got dark. Ice cream van still there but didn't have enough money... Walked off down the road for what seemed like ages in the gathering gloom - didn't fancy abseiling or walking through the forest in the dark. A great late season route on a warm, sunny, still day. Should put this as 'led with falls' but just put 'lead' so it would count for Extreme Rock ticklist!

with Phil
philhilo 13/Nov/11 2nd

Did this after Krapps - total change of style. Totally physical, strong and technical. Several attempts at first o'hang, then a rest in the blank section of the groove. Too tired to lead top pitch - even Misha downclimbed for a rest! Finished in the dark, as usual!

with misha
westyb3 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Sarhan
pezzerrr 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
Ricky Rocks 27/May/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant. When combined with Krapps last tape, it makes for a wicked route bottom to top.

Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd O/S
billb ?/Mar/09 AltLd
with Graham A
richsmithinbristol ??/2009 Lead O/S

HVS access pitch. Need to do Krapps really!

Hidden 01/Nov/08 Lead
IceMonkey1982 25/Jul/08 -
Billg 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd dog
_m.cox_ ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Paz 15/Jul/06 Lead RP

1 fall on 6a pitch then pulled the ropes and redpointed - much more worth while than I thought it was going to be. I think most people fall off at the second bolt then do it after, and then say it's only F6c/6c+, and even though I think it's equivalent to a good F7a fight onsight, who am I to disagree?

with AB
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd dog
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 10/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd dog
joe_alexander 21/Mar/05 2nd dog

little bit of an epic, snapped peg

with Nick Gillette
Kev Little ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ?/Feb/04 Lead
Paz ?/Feb/04 2nd dog

1 fall per pitch

with AS
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/02 TR
KRB 12/May/02 Lead β

Classic climbing. Well protected

with unseconded
John Southworth 09/Sep/01 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Jason Parker
Hidden ?/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 18/Jul/99 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Jul/99 -
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 20/Jun/99 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
chris sm 28/Oct/95 2nd dog
with Andy Gill
duncan 18/Jun/95 2nd
keefe ??/1995 -
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead
with John Codling
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
mattnuttall 09/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
with Dave Stott
Hidden ??/1989 Lead RP
keefe 20/Aug/88 -
wynaptomos ?/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
DDDD ??/1988 -
Hidden 23/Jul/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Eduardo Martinez 08/Sep/85 Lead O/S
pete johnson ??/1985 -
Mike Owen 16/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Nigel Coe 30/Sep/84 2nd dog

and Mike ????. I used 3 points of aid.

William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
stp 19/Aug/83 Lead O/S
stp 19/Aug/83 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1983 -
duncan ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 29/Jul/81 Lead O/S

Jon Grubb

Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ?/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with Steve Marriot
20 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set