Rockfax Description
An Avon rite of passage. Good climbing with a bold feel, although the gear improves as height is gained. Start at a peg and nut belay on a high ledge reached via the initial 9m of Pink Ginsane's first pitch.
Take the easy-angled groove above the belay to a peg. Step up above the peg and pull out left on to the wall, good small nut. Move up and bridge right to a point below an overhang with pegs below it. Pull over the overhang, good nut in borehole, to a peg before moving down right and then up to an overhang, peg and another good nut. Traverse left below the overhang past a peg to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt. Finish up Think Pink or abseil off. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, C Woodhead May/1967

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

kenneM 20/Apr Lead O/S

Amazing line - complex and pretty bold. Great to have got it onsight - well happy!

with Chris
Stanners 27/Mar Lead O/S

Something I have always wanted to achieve. Thoroughly enjoyed the experience, never getting too scared. It demands a cool, collected calculating mindset and cannot be rushed. A very memorable afternoon.

Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 25/Mar 2nd

An interesting route. Might want to try a 3 or 4 camalot out in the borehole if/when I lead it.

Pippa 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/16 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 26/May/16 Lead rpt

As good as I remember it - classic Avon! Definitely one to savour, can't be rushed.

Ellis Bird 01/May/16 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2016 -
Cheese Monkey 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S

My first E3 and what a cracker. Just slowly padded up it. Gear was good, slightly run out, but no real fall-offable moves. Really really nice intricate climbing

with Peter M
LRob 03/Jun/15 Lead
climbomaniac 17/May/15 Lead O/S

What a great climb!! Quite a bold start, not to be underestimated. Looks easier than it is. Followed by varied climbing and superb route finding! You can feel the history of this line, that's how they must have climbed and picked their lines back in the days...

Bristoldave 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Although the start is a bit bold its mostly not too bad. Could be e2

with Mike
LucasHarazin 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
just one more 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Avon Man 11/May/14 Lead O/S
with msoldn
Alex Winter 18/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Steady lead by Andy. The climbing is great, and pretty sustained between the rests. Better protected than the grade suggests, although it wouldn't be a good idea to fall off before the flake.

with Andy
AJM 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Sustained intricacies. Very cool route with a devious line. A lot happier once I got to the flake, from there runouts between good gear clusters led me up, down, across, and every which way :)

Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
mike lawrence? 14/Apr/13 2nd
with FatRob
Hidden 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Very intricate and enjoyable, but took me ages to lead. Maybe a bit tough for 5b (or maybe it's just because I'm more accustomed to swinging axes at the moment than balancing up the gorge). A good start to the season

jcw ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
colesy 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Probably the longest I have ever spent trying to lead a pitch! Well over an hour I think! Wasn't really any easy moves in whole thing although no distinct crux either. Not sure about three stars although maybe if I where better I would have enjoyed it more!

with Gary
Mike Goldthorp 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route, meandering all over the place, great fun weaving your way up. Starts a bit bold but once you get up to the shothole runner theres bomber gear where you need it, definitely a few 5c moves in there, and not atall as bold as an E3 5b would suggest. Link-up with Think Pink is an absolute beauty, 2 constrastingly classic E3 pitches, get on it!

Cailean Harker 03/Aug/12 2nd
Ed Babs 28/Jul/12 Lead β

Seconded previously with Marti.

Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
BeccaSnowden 25/Mar/12 2nd dog

Found it terrifying to second. Once I'd fallen off once I lost my confidence and just gave up trying not to fall.

with Tom
thomasadixon 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Didn't feel particularly hard or bold after I'd clipped the peg with the tat (technical bridging that was very good but I really wouldn't have wanted to fall off) on but definately felt hard on the feet! Probably new shoes and just spending too long standing around on the rests really. Great route with route finding that always seems confusing until you do it.

with Becca
Marti999 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
colesy ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 2nd
with Alex Haslehurst
Justin T 14/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Terrifyingly insecure for those unaccustomed to the fine art of Avon weirdness, monster rope drag, wonderful!

with Cherry
philhilo 13/Nov/11 Lead

Great climb. All balance and not bold where it counts (a bit thin low down but steady). Lots of technical bridging, its a jigsaw, put it together. Big swing off whilst moving back up the groove to the final overhang - back to the start of the hard climbing so back again and much easier the 2nd time.

with misha
Misha 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant balancy technical climbing, never desperate but rarely straightforward - best route of this type that I've ever done. Lots of sustained hard 5b sequences but also lots of in-balance rests to ponder the next sequence. The gear isn't as bad as the grade would suggest (run out in places but didn't find it scary, probably because it wasn't that hard) so perhaps only E2, though I wouldn't want to fall off on most of it! Late start from Leamington after the club annual dinner so got to the crag towards 2pm and didn't start the route till 3.30pm. Took best part of 2 hours for me and Ed to get up it so had just over an hour of daylight left and Ed didn't fancy Think Pink anyway so decided to be sensible and abbed off the bolted belay up and right (two old bolts and a newish one linked by old tat - could do with replacing). First route after 5 weekends off climbing after starting a relationship with Holly (who was going to a gig in Cornwall). Good to be back on the rock and good to see I could still climb! A very nice day for October, got a bit hot when the sun came out.

with Ed
eduardo 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Utterly exhausting! Sustained 5b sequences,often difficult to read, not many proper rests. Did this "more or less" clean - probably slight tension on the rope at times.

with Misha
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 21/Jan/09 2nd dog
with Howard
Hidden ??/2009 2nd rpt
dan gibson 02/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
Billg 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Paz 12/Mar/08 2nd rpt
with HA
Hidden 12/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/07 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Jul/07 2nd β
with Adam Mulholland
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Paz 15/Jul/06 2nd rpt

Contrary to what I may have lead anyone to believe, there aren't any particularly new looking pegs in this route. Not that you need them, by any means. It's a bold E3, go figure. You're going to get scared, but one way or the other you're probably not going to die. And if you're used to Avon routes on shit gear then you have an acclimatisation advantage over most folks who hack up and turn up and get on three star routes that will leave you pleasantly surprised.

with AB
Hidden 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Tim Steward 30/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Torran Elson
Hidden 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S
joe_alexander 16/May/05 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
Ally Smith 27/Jul/04 2nd
Paz 27/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with AS
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead RP
KRB 15/Dec/01 Lead β

Expecting to virtually solo, but actually not badly protected.

with unseconded
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 18/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Roget 14/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
AndySL 10/Aug/95 2nd O/S
with Tim
duncan 18/Jun/95 Lead rpt
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
mattnuttall 09/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with Dave Stott
garycrocker ?/May/89 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, intricate and devious. Very absorbing. Felt every bit E3 5B. Cheers Dave and your 500 year old Ed Drummond guide book for telling me it was HVS.

Hidden 30/Apr/89 AltLd
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 11/Sep/88 Lead O/S

E2, 5b** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Charlie Everett
keefe 20/Aug/88 -
clark alston ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S

A Drummond classic.

with Alan Pow
Hidden ??/1988 -
Eduardo Martinez 23/Aug/87 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
John Marsland 08/Sep/85 Lead O/S

given E2 at the time

with Mark Cohen
Mike Owen 16/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Nigel Coe 30/Sep/84 2nd

and Mike ????

William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
charlesmfrench 13/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Dave Green
andy gittins ??/1983 -
duncan ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
stp 27/Mar/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Andy Dunhill
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
mitch1960 ??/1980 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 30/Sep/79 Lead O/S
with Haydn Griffiths
Hidden 27/Aug/79 Lead O/S
petemeads ??/1977 Lead

Brilliant climb - had seconded it previously (1975?) but just had to lead it myself. Continued up Think Pink (with the aid allowed at the time) for a tremendous combination.

with not sure...
Hidden ?/Jul/76 Lead O/S
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 Lead

Uni' years

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