40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb bold and memorable climb taking the blank wall and soaring groove right of Ffoeg's Folly. Start right of the 'starfish' graffiti at the base of the open corner of Ffoeg's Folly.
1) 5b, 16m. Move right up an easy sloping ramp to its highest point and then make some fingery wall moves to easier ground and the first belay of Ffoeg's Folly. This is a very bold pitch that is unprotected and is often swapped for the first pitch of Ffoeg's Folly.
2) 5c, 24m. Traverse right and climb up to reach a bolt on the left rib of the lower groove, move right and up to a small overhang. Enter the groove above with difficulty and climb boldly to a peg. Continue up the narrowing groove that curves right, before heading up a short corner on the left with a hard-to-spot ring peg at its top, then take the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Becky's ticklist, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
David Clover 22 Apr TR Self belay Billy no mates
Self belay Billy no mates
danieljames123 24 Mar Lead Used Ffoeg's for P1. Excellent route, if a bit terrifying.
Used Ffoeg's for P1. Excellent route, if a bit terrifying.
Will_Armstrong 24 Mar 2nd
with Daniel Heins
with Daniel Heins
Si 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd I led P.1, Rob steady away on bold P.2
I led P.1, Rob steady away on bold P.2
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Well I never, that was alarming! Letting go on that final mantel would be pretty spacey (and thankfully I didn't).
with Si
Well I never, that was alarming! Letting go on that final mantel would be pretty spacey (and thankfully I didn't).
with Si
Angrypenguin 14 Aug, 2016 TR rpt
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 TR rpt
KatOstrich 14 Aug, 2016 TR O/S First pitch
with Catherine Johns
First pitch
with Catherine Johns
catty_9 14 Aug, 2016 TR O/S Only first pitch
Only first pitch
Dan Hale 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Lauren Holliman
with Lauren Holliman
Angrypenguin 15 May, 2016 TR rpt
Hidden 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Mar, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 18 Dec, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 2nd
Nick Russell 30 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Second pitch onsight, I'd soloed the first previously. Wow, good runout! The peg comes unhelpfully late, when you've already got the good holds. I reckon the technical crux is near the bolt, but it feels harder as you get further away from it. Just a case of hold it together and keep moving up!
Second pitch onsight, I'd soloed the first previously. Wow, good runout! The peg comes unhelpfully late, when you've already got the good holds. I reckon the technical crux is near the bolt, but it feels harder as you get further away from it. Just a case of hold it together and keep moving up!
Alex Winter 30 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S Bit of a brown trouser job - good lead by Nick. Hardest bit is next to the bolt, but the top groove felt pretty wobbly. Forgot harness so wore a sling nappy.
with Nick
Bit of a brown trouser job - good lead by Nick. Hardest bit is next to the bolt, but the top groove felt pretty wobbly. Forgot harness so wore a sling nappy.
with Nick
gimmer ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
msoldn 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Good, but not quite as stunning as description suggests. A one-move wonder really, followed by a couple of steady 5a moves which you wouldn't want to fall off on. Couldn't find any microwire placements, but bolt protects crux well.
with Thomasina
Good, but not quite as stunning as description suggests. A one-move wonder really, followed by a couple of steady 5a moves which you wouldn't want to fall off on. Couldn't find any microwire placements, but bolt protects crux well.
with Thomasina
Hidden 9 Jul, 2012 2nd
KRB 12 May, 2012 Lead rpt Onsighted the E4 6a direct this time. A positive approach worked on this hot afternoon. Chris looked like some sort of Praying Mantis with his lanky legs all bent and doubled under him in some backwards sort of bridging move on the crux.
with Chris Bridges
Onsighted the E4 6a direct this time. A positive approach worked on this hot afternoon. Chris looked like some sort of Praying Mantis with his lanky legs all bent and doubled under him in some backwards sort of bridging move on the crux.
with Chris Bridges
Toby Dunn 30 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S Memorable, brilliant but extremely run out, necky climbing. Peg is pretty crap but if you've got that far you shouldn't really require its services anyway.
with Pete Saunders
Memorable, brilliant but extremely run out, necky climbing. Peg is pretty crap but if you've got that far you shouldn't really require its services anyway.
with Pete Saunders
thomasadixon 22 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Pretty terrifying!
with hms
Pretty terrifying!
with hms
Hidden 22 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
AlexRenshaw 19 Jul, 2011 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
karenhh 19 Jun, 2011 2nd dog
Tom Brierley 19 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S My first E3, I really struggled up the crux on the second pitch, couldn't find much protection other than the pegs so it was a real run out. Definitely a Rear-Wheel-Drive climb. Challenging climbing - scared the crap outa me... probably wouldn't recommend it as a first E3 to others. Time to buy some micronuts
with karenhh
My first E3, I really struggled up the crux on the second pitch, couldn't find much protection other than the pegs so it was a real run out. Definitely a Rear-Wheel-Drive climb. Challenging climbing - scared the crap outa me... probably wouldn't recommend it as a first E3 to others. Time to buy some micronuts
with karenhh
Hidden 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Ross Davidson 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd β Tried the e3 version this time. Was shocked to find that there weren't good micro nut placements like I thought there were. Clipping the old peg was a big relief. Great route, surprised there aren't that many UKC ticks for it
Tried the e3 version this time. Was shocked to find that there weren't good micro nut placements like I thought there were. Clipping the old peg was a big relief. Great route, surprised there aren't that many UKC ticks for it
Ross Davidson 9 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf Was about a foot from the good hold after the crux when my foot popped and I took a big fall. Didn't retry as my recently recovered finger felt a bit tender. Will definitely be back to finish off soon. Did E4 sequence
with Clay C
Was about a foot from the good hold after the crux when my foot popped and I took a big fall. Didn't retry as my recently recovered finger felt a bit tender. Will definitely be back to finish off soon. Did E4 sequence
with Clay C
Hidden 9 Mar, 2011 AltLd dnf
Ged Desforges ??, 2011 - what a bloody brilliant route. 3 stars anywhere. Pretty bold, I've definitely done outes that felt less bold that get E4.
what a bloody brilliant route. 3 stars anywhere. Pretty bold, I've definitely done outes that felt less bold that get E4.
richiebongo 2 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
with Nick Smith
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 TR dnf
Rowansb 10 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Mungo Nash
with Mungo Nash
dan gibson 2 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
KRB 31 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Succumbed quite readily to a positive attitude
with Martin Bridges
Succumbed quite readily to a positive attitude
with Martin Bridges
tonanf 12 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with james c
with james c
Paz 23 Sep, 2006 2nd rpt
Hidden 23 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Pythonist 22 Apr, 2006 Lead dnf Damn. Having made it to the crux, the step into the groove defeated me. There is supposedly (Avon CC guide) a peg under the overhang on the right before stepping back into the groove. Couldn't find it, but a reasonable (but not confidence inspiring) micro-nut can be placed instead, and this is at the same height as the bolt, given a good fall-out zone. First pitch is a soft (but nastily polished for the first three moves) HVS 5a.
with Alistair McKelvie
Damn. Having made it to the crux, the step into the groove defeated me. There is supposedly (Avon CC guide) a peg under the overhang on the right before stepping back into the groove. Couldn't find it, but a reasonable (but not confidence inspiring) micro-nut can be placed instead, and this is at the same height as the bolt, given a good fall-out zone. First pitch is a soft (but nastily polished for the first three moves) HVS 5a.
with Alistair McKelvie
JamieAyres 29 Jan, 2006 TR rpt 1st pitch only - 5a
with Ben Anderson
1st pitch only - 5a
with Ben Anderson
Hidden 29 Jan, 2006 Lead rpt
Marcus ??, 2006 -
UKB Shark 11 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S Put it down as an on-sight but doing these logs subsequently discovered I led it in 1996 ! Have to admit I had a sense of deja-vu but put it down to the fear.
with Pete
Put it down as an on-sight but doing these logs subsequently discovered I led it in 1996 ! Have to admit I had a sense of deja-vu but put it down to the fear.
with Pete
Hidden 11 Jun, 2005 2nd
richsmithinbristol 23 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 2005 AltLd dog
joe_alexander ??, 2005 2nd dog
with tony penning
with tony penning
Ally Smith 3 Jun, 2004 2nd
with Paz
with Paz
Paz 3 Jun, 2004 Lead β ...and got it the next day.
...and got it the next day.
Hidden 11 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Billg 14 Feb, 2001 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
with Megan Beaumont
Ally Smith ??, 2001 -
UKB Shark 10 May, 1996 Lead O/S
with Sonia
with Sonia
chris sm 28 Feb, 1995 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
with Andy Gill
NeilGriffiths 16 Oct, 1994 -
with Duncs
with Duncs
lowersharpnose 1 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S A hot and sweaty evening. The first pitch (*) got my heart going - as well as the delicate moves high up on the second. * Direct up the middle of the wall to the right of the HVS flake/corner.
with Adam
A hot and sweaty evening. The first pitch (*) got my heart going - as well as the delicate moves high up on the second. * Direct up the middle of the wall to the right of the HVS flake/corner.
with Adam
GAtkins 29 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
with Neil
with Neil
AndySL ??, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Mark
with Mark
Roget 29 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden ?May, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 1988 2nd
Pete Nugent 12 May, 1988 AltLd Led p1. At a later date came back amnd led.
with Charlie Everett
Led p1. At a later date came back amnd led.
with Charlie Everett
adriandesouza ?Jun, 1987 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1987 Lead
Adrian Gostick 15 Oct, 1986 Lead
JamieAyres ?Jun, 1986 Lead rpt bottom pitch only of course..
with Peter Rickard
bottom pitch only of course..
with Peter Rickard
William Robertson ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
John Marsland 8 Sep, 1985 Lead given E2 5c at the time
with Mark Cohen
given E2 5c at the time
with Mark Cohen
JamieAyres ?Sep, 1985 2nd rpt bottom pitch only of course..
with Rob Parker
bottom pitch only of course..
with Rob Parker
JamieAyres ?Jul, 1985 2nd found the top pitch desperate at the top of the groove and very bold
with Graham Aveyard
found the top pitch desperate at the top of the groove and very bold
with Graham Aveyard
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
duncan ?Jun, 1983 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??, 1983 -
redjerry ?Apr, 1982 Lead
with Jim Melrose
with Jim Melrose
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead rpt
duncan ?Aug, 1981 Lead O/S
redjerry ?Apr, 1981 Lead
with Jim Melrose
with Jim Melrose
leland stamper ?Mar, 1981 2nd O/S
with Simon F&T
with Simon F&T
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Hidden 31 Jul, 1979 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 12 Mar, 1978 AltLd O/S
with Tobin Sorensen, Phil Thomas
with Tobin Sorensen, Phil Thomas
Hidden ??, 1976 -
deepstar ?Apr, 1969 2nd 1st pitch only
with Ian Duckworth
1st pitch only
with Ian Duckworth
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set