III, 165m, 3 - 4 hours. Not always formed, this route is an excellent (but much tougher) alternative to the Chéré Couloir when that is busy. It is possible to belay straight underneath the route but better to use a bolt belay 20m to the left which avoids the worst of the ice fall from above.
1) 3+, 50m. Follow the thin, slabby gully (70 degrees) which finishes up a slightly steeper corner.
2) 4+, 30m. The gully continues past two short, steep sections, which are well protected and lead to a belay tucked in on the left.
3) 5, 35m. Traverse right for 3m and climb the slabby corner above to a bolted belay either in, or a couple of metres above the Chéré Couloir, depending on the thickness of the ice. The pitch is trickier than it looks and is easier with plenty of ice.
4) 5, 30m. Climb the slab above the belay to reach parallel cracks and climb the left one, before making a bold traverse back right to climb the thin ice gully above.
Either abseil down the Chéré Couloir or finish up it. © Rockfax
Godefroy Perroux early 80's.
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