Rockfax Description
A sometimes overlooked classic with good protection and nice moves. Considered easier than Cenotaph Corner. It can take slightly longer to dry than neighbouring routes.
1) 8m. Climb rightwards through vegetated rock to blocks that lead up to a ledge at the base of the corner.
2) 5b, 35m. Follow the steep corner, passing a difficult bulge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016.

kyaizawa 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 18/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Ki
Hidden 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Mike505 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/16 2nd
FlavioL1989 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Good climb, a bit damp at the bottom. Soloed the approach pitch.

w-watson 31/Jul/16 Lead
Graeme Hammond 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Jim
Hidden 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead rpt
pitsien.lang 18/Jun/16 Lead
with Matt
DHHZ 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2. First 'pitch' was slimy and horrible after rain but the main crack was well worth it.

with Felicity
SAF 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Pimwuh 03/Jun/16 2nd
with Glynne
LJKing 30/May/16 Lead O/S
with Paul Clarkson
Curly Rich 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ramsey
adamre12 17/May/16 AltLd O/S

P1. A cool route!

JamesWilliams 16/May/16 Lead O/S

Pretty easy with one hard move to surmount the niche

tim.fairhall 16/May/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 16/May/16 2nd O/S

Great route, somewhat spoiled by the mismatched crux and easy top section. If not for the crux would be HVS. Seems easier to solo the first 'pitch' in rock shoes than faff with ropes etc.

with Tim
Gambit 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 14/May/16 Lead O/S
London Luke 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/16 2nd
richiebongo 21/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch but may have taken the wrong crack to start as it was very overgrown higher up. Really nice route.

with Phoebe
UncleMephisto 19/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Disgusting lower pitch does nothing to detract from the gem of the top pitch. Well protected, good rock and gives you plenty of time to figure everything out. A classic.

Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hugh Irving 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Rory
davebrox ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
amccann 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Tom Bennell
DavidFarrow 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Lovely! Lay back...

garywong 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
keitht 03/Oct/15 Lead
with Wil Treasure
steveboote 27/Sep/15 Lead
with Hidden
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
David Kay 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Climbers' Club
redshapedfriday 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tim newton 26/Sep/15 2nd rpt
mapperley samurai 26/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Not as good as CC or CG but worth a star or two. Quite unbalanced with a cruxy section and then VS climbing to the top.

Hidden 10/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/15 2nd
btalbot 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 11/Jun/15 AltLd

Jayne led 'the' pitch. Very steep crux, smeary bridging definitely helped

with Jayne
masa-alpin 16/May/15 Lead O/S

It'd be a 3-star climb if not vegetaged so much. Good route nonetheless, certainly better and cleaner than it first appeared from below.

with Saša Dobrić
belay bunny turned bad 13/May/15 -
AndrewP 13/May/15 2nd O/S

Found the crux hard - need to have more confidence to bridge.

harold walmsley 09/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led the main pitch. Complete contrast to Curfew. Protection on demand and moves not too hard. How can these routes sensibly be given the same adjectival grade?

with Chris Calow
Wizzy 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Sam Husband 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

A non polished route a cromlech!! Awesome second pitch (the first is more an approach) with almost infinite gear at the crux. Carrying on past dead tree to top is a safer belay.

with Tom
tombushell 21/Mar/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
middlevern ??/2015 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Vnockles 16/Nov/14 2nd
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Tor
freemanTom 29/Sep/14 AltLd

Led pointless grubby first pitch as described in CC guide. The actual climb is superb

with Ben Pearce
Dan Vaj 29/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Khalid
khalidq 29/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Sep/14 -
Gudge 16/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Great gear & well defined hard 5b crux - enjoyed this more than Cemetery Gates due to less polish & chalk!

with Will Miller
w-watson 14/Sep/14 2nd
lanky 14/Sep/14 Lead
with trystam
highclimber 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Hard VS due to the ability to place loads of gear - some above your head. 5b moves easy enough but def 5b

robgixer 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
erbridger 02/Sep/14 2nd

Seconded Rhys. Only one tricky section which involves a confident layback.

Martin Haworth 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Wet on the easy bit and some damp sections on the hard bit.

Brannock 24/Aug/14 2nd
Tom Livingstone 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Josie McGee
alexjz 28/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Sam Farmsworth
Tim M 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 26/Jul/14 2nd
kenneM 25/Jul/14 Lead
with Nick Murray
Richard P Coates 25/Jul/14 2nd O/S
elCapitano 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Coatesy
Hidden 22/Jul/14 2nd
spenser 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, the crux is a bit of a battle and all 3 of us took a different approach to it, either way the sequence is utterly outrageous and the moves are fantastic!

with Ellie, Ross
Dan Vaj 10/Jul/14 Lead β
with Khalid, James McHaffie
khalidq 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
reima 08/Jul/14 2nd
with Niamh
wi11 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Helen G
Dizz 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Hard crux move!

with Martina
Sophie Nunn 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
TiffTiff 29/Jun/14 2nd β
with Richard, Sophie
Luxulyan 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tiff, Sophie
Gus 28/Jun/14 2nd
with hazel findlay, katy whitt
eel 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Liam
davewsargent 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with andy neath
smallerrich 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Pretty good way of trying to get back into climbing!

with Terry
Hidden 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd rpt
pete johnson 13/Jun/14 -
pauldrew 13/Jun/14 2nd
kp64zl ?/Jun/14 2nd

great climb

with Nick CC
Diggler 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with stemill
stemill 17/May/14 AltLd

Led P1 - A genuinely interesting expedition through the jungle!

with Mark
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
adam 24 17/May/14 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 16/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ryan
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead
VPJB 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
samwillo 14/Apr/14 Lead
with The Bear
jamesgodwin64 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

lovely route but felt like the poorer relation to Cenotaph Corner but still well worth jumping on, maybe even worth getting on before CC just for a sneaky preview of sorts

with John Cooper
DavidPC 13/Mar/14 2nd
Matt.c.Warner 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Tim Whittaker (Vags)
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
waynekinrade ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
A Crook 27/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

first pitch is so grotty best to start from cemetery gates belay. The easy scramble does not give any insights into the main pitch whatsoever. It being easy and forested. But what lies ahead is a sublime pitch of corner climbing. great stuff with bold sections (only because gear is hard to place) around the crux. A gem that is often neglected for its bigger an more famous brothers.

Dom Whillans 27/Aug/13 AltLd
with a.crook
Justin T 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
NancyJones 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
therat 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Jim Brooke 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rich
richsmithinbristol 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S


Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd dog
Tadams 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

lead 1st pitch/scramble

with Mark Challoner
Shone 27/Jul/13 2nd
with Richard Nadin, Rob
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
WalnutHorse 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Matt Rowat 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Seconded main pitch. Very very good route, and quite hard crux...

with owen
Hidden 15/Jul/13 Lead β
duncandarnell 15/Jul/13 2nd
with JezH
ben360 14/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Josiemc 05/Jul/13 AltLd
Ows ?/Jul/13 Lead
centurion05 ?/Jul/13 2nd
with patch
Duncan Campbell 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

The warm-up for the main event that never happened...

with Fingers
Mike W 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 18/Jun/13 2nd O/S

One good move

with Mike w
tim newton 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with si hughes
Hidden 10/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd
Aaron Lines 07/Jun/13 2nd
Neil Amos 26/May/13 2nd

Seconded Simon judge

alexjz 25/May/13 2nd O/S

Pleasant but straightforward I found

sheelba 22/May/13 2nd
shed_hed 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dan Geogan
remus 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Nice, climbing is a little unbalanced but good overall.

dswansonlow 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Hidden ??/2013 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Danjones 21/Oct/12 2nd rpt

Short but stiff crux!

with George, Steve Keys
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
brockers 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

nice route. was a bit wet in the crack!

Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
soph 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Helena Robinson
Dan724 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant, just as much fun as the classics but with the added benefit of being away from the crowds.

Cardi 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Dan
herrettscott 01/Sep/12 AltLd dog
with Neil Mc
Dibdawg 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
mark20 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
JRae 11/Aug/12 Lead
Dean177 ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Traversed in from cemetery gates starting point.Fantastic, definitely worth 3 stars.

Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Got on this after Si started off up crucifix direct by mistake. Ivy Sepulchure was great once you got stuck into P2. I suspect it's caught out a few E1 leaders over the year with the stiff crux move.

with Si
R0bbie 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
IanD353 28/May/12 2nd rpt
with Elfyn
Coops_13 22/May/12 2nd O/S

Started lead on pitch 1 and couldn't find a way up protectionless, wet choss.

Matt Cooke 13/May/12 2nd O/S
Bill Lawrence 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S

wish i'd led it, well worth a climb

with oaksi2
James Oakes 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 30/Mar/12 2nd
with Doddy
ksjs 28/Mar/12 2nd rpt

With rucksack and actually my smoothest effort on the crux to date.

with jo
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??/2012 -
Captain Gear ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
piersg ??/2012 Lead
Helen Gibson 06/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/11 AltLd
TomMorgan 01/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Rather embarrassingly a bit of a fall on the crux climbing out of the niche and had to come down, great climb up till then though!

with Ben Rigby
owain86 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S

with Greg
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead
Steeve 28/Sep/11 2nd
with will
Martin Davies 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Top bulge was tricky and a bit wet in places.

with Matt Harris
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
KittySupreme ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Owain
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd
guy757 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
mikeshewring 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Lawrie Brand 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
PeteH 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Colin Scotchford 25/Jul/11 AltLd
martrin 24/Jul/11 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
williamsd79 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
centurion05 12/Jul/11 2nd
with dyl
cem 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
petegruf 03/Jul/11 2nd

1st pitch is a scramble. second pitch is worth 3 stars

daveyji ?/Jul/11 -

Seconded. Will lead next time. Great climb, steady with definite crux.

with Libby Peter, Linda Williamson
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
sishaw 11/Jun/11 Lead

One good section and the rest is dross.Did it in one pitch as the first is a scramble.I can'tsee why this is a classic,utterly forgettable. VS as well I thought.

Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dog
Ewan Russell 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 18/Apr/11 2nd
with Al
al123 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
al123 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
al99 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
adam06 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Ryan
spidey 10/Apr/11 Lead
with adam
richardcreagh 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Good to finish this after failing 2 years previously.

Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd
IanD353 ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Ailsa
ig248 26/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Kane
dan ely 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with tony (army)
Alex.M-M. 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Laurence Everitt 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
alek 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/10 2nd
hamish2016 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Wil Treasure
CharlieMack ?/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Andrew Innes
markfairbank 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Ian Moore
melonmike 27/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mikeyg 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
sam820 22/Jun/10 2nd
with Rich
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 20/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with owen
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Harry
Ri 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
Jen Crook 14/Jun/10 2nd
John Roe 12/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Misha 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Although this has some good moves at the start and on the crux (5c I think), it's not as good as Cenotaph Corner as it's nowhere as sustained. The easier sections do provide pleasant climbing but could do with them being at least 4c or 5a rather than 4a! Nice setting away from the crowds around the Corner. Rather puzzled by the P1 description in the CC guide book and instead traversed in from the Cemetery Gates belay.

with Ian W
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 26/May/10 2nd
with Dave Gleave
andy dunn 23/May/10 Lead O/S

With Cenotaph being in the midday sun we opted for Ivy Sepulchre. Both the climbing and the quality of the rock were second to none. Some thuggy crux moves - had to climb back to the ledge halfway through the 1st attempt due to the flake I was about to pull on being exceedingly loose... got it second go after figuring out a different sequence.

with J
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead
theotherpetehill 15/May/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with rob
Rob Pitt 24/Apr/10 2nd rpt
John Pickles 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 15/Apr/10 -
with Cath Wilson
mr mills ??/2010 -
with edwin
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
Kirill 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
cem 19/Sep/09 2nd
HeatherF 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mike
Liam FLeming 16/Sep/09 2nd dog
with james hayward
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
leepip 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with GUY VG
david morse 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with mikey R+Steve
melonmike 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
JulesV 02/Aug/09 Lead
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 01/Aug/09 2nd
with Jules
beci tointen ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Carly 12/Jun/09 Lead dog
with sophie
mattyork2 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Good lead Johnny!

with Johnny Richard
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd
AJM 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Not a bad route, short sharp crux

with Tom Stedall
Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
AJ007 24/May/09 AltLd
simonp ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
steveboote ?/May/09 Lead

With Adam Graham, aspirants meet VagabondMC

Hidden 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Glyn Davidson 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great climbing. Crux move is a little thuggish but well protected.

richardcreagh ?/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Ian Andrews ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Norman Clacher
Hidden ??/2009 -
Guy Wilson 27/Sep/08 Lead
with Byron Buck, Alex Twist
Twisty 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Guy Wilson
Byronius Maximus 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Glyn 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome moves on the crux, I lead first pitch. Same it was not much more than a scramble

with Jade
jade Edwards Leaney 21/Sep/08 AltLd
with glyn
Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd
CarolineH 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Dave
Bristoldave 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ritchierich 18/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Bob Dickson
Hidden 15/Jun/08 2nd
Danos 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Ben
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
adrianj 14/Jun/08 2nd
Tom Eagle 04/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Easy climbing before and after the crux, which was quite physical

with skygod78
mje1398 01/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with John M
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
Nicos 30/May/08 Lead O/S
with frazer
Matt Bennett 11/May/08 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with A. Howarth
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Will1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
barni ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Marcus ??/2008 -
Ed Booth ??/2008 -
Hidden 12/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/07 AltLd
Rowansb ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Tricky for 5b but some nice moves.

with Gareth
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/07 AltLd
chris wyatt ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with hadyn
maybe_si 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with dan gibson
dan gibson 25/May/07 2nd
with simon chevis
JonBrett 05/May/07 2nd
with Ben
spacey 15/Apr/07 AltLd
Paul Evans 15/Apr/07 AltLd
with spacey
DavidR 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Wilbur 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Seconded Caine up the main 5b pitch with the horror move in the crack!

with Caine
viking ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with wilbur
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
tom.e 04/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

Seconded the 5b pitch

with Pete
brian watson 22/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Stig 15/Sep/06 Lead O/S


with Jonathan Teale
shoulders 26/Jul/06 Lead
feilx 11/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/06 Lead
AngelaC 07/Jun/06 Lead
with Rob
Ram MkiV 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Led the main corner pitch - interesting stuff.

with Alex
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Shaw Brown ??/2005 Lead dog

One rest, cocked up the layback, happy I was not. Underated climb, would be 3 stars elswhere.

with David Jones
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Derek Ryden 15/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Geoff Bennett
samwelli 19/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Steve Hobbs
Dave Pritchard 22/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Simon Laker
Hidden 05/Apr/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2003 AltLd O/S

I got the top pitch

with Val Hennelly
keith leonard ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/02 2nd O/S
Different Steve ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S

Led easy P1

with Rupert Holbrook
Bullybones ??/2000 -
VPJB ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Duncan I ?/May/98 Lead dnf

Rotating flake put us off it.

with Al Taylor
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
WB ??/1998 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Dave Musgrove Jnr 31/Mar/97 2nd
with Jon Sykes
BenTiffin ?/Jan/97 Lead

Benighted while a abbing off afterwards

with James Rushton
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
pete johnson 21/Sep/96 2nd rpt
with Bob Allen
Chris Ellis 03/Aug/96 AltLd

I led the main pitch with a rest at the crux

with Louise Pellett
Hidden 03/Aug/96 2nd rpt
robtrooper ??/1996 -
switch ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/94 2nd O/S
auld al ??/1994 -
Hidden 23/Jun/93 2nd
Hidden 01/May/93 Lead
Budge ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell, Mike Oates
Marti999 ??/1993 Lead
Pete_Frost ??/1993 Lead O/S

Interesting offwidth which my partner needed plenty of rope tension to overcome.

with Judy Ling Wong
TheAndyBarker ?/May/92 Lead
with Nick Sharpe
AdmWlr ??/1992 Lead O/S
g1m147 08/Sep/91 2nd
with Mick.
Hidden 28/Apr/91 2nd
Hidden 30/Mar/91 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/90 Lead
NickJH ?/May/90 Lead
with D Picker
Jelly Mould Surfer ?/May/90 Lead O/S


NickJH ?/May/90 Lead O/S
with D Picker
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/89 Lead
phardman 18/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Nick Biven 03/Jun/89 Lead
rob.grafton ??/1989 -
with Bruce Perry, barry maybank
Hidden ?/Oct/88 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ??/1988 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/87 Lead RP
John Marsland 25/May/87 2nd
with Neil Bulloch
Hidden 25/May/87 Lead
michael burrows 10/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/87 AltLd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Jul/86 AltLd
with Brian Harley
Hidden 18/Jun/86 2nd
Steve Crowe 15/Sep/85 2nd O/S

Very good route

Andy Nicholson ?/May/85 Lead O/S
with Spike
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 22/Jul/84 Lead O/S


with Ian Milne
Richard Weller 21/Jul/84 AltLd
with john sanders
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 05/Nov/83 Lead
with Paul "Curly" Williamson
Ian Jones ?/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
Gordon Stainforth 19/Jun/83 2nd

Did this 15 years previously with 2 pegs for aid. Infinitely better free, at E1. A really exhilarating dynamic crux.

with Robert Barton
nigehughes ?/May/82 Lead
with Phil James
Nic Robinson ??/1982 -
Robmwatt ??/1982 Lead
Andy Stephenson 18/Apr/81 Lead O/S

Had to stop halfway through the crux move to throw a Rock 1 to John Redhead. He was attempting "Hall of Warriors" (2nd ascent IIRC) and really needed the nut.

with Phil Crudge
mikej 15/May/80 Lead
with Tony Waite
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hammy 27/Oct/79 AltLd
with JIm Arnold
steveboote ?/Jun/79 Lead dog

With Neil Wise-Liverpool Poly

RichardMc 14/Oct/78 Lead
with Daphne Pritchard, Tony Williams
Hidden ?/Sep/78 Lead rpt
RichardMc 11/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
leland stamper 27/Feb/78 AltLd dnf

it was v cold

with Jon Godding
Ken Taylor 15/Sep/77 AltLd

Before block fell off - HVS 5a

with Chris Terrey
Lone Rider 10/Jul/77 Lead O/S


Chris Terrey 21/May/77 AltLd
with Ken Taylor
Paul Clarke ??/1977 Lead
with Steve Swindells
Hidden ?/Jul/76 2nd
Hidden 29/May/76 Lead
Mike Owen 09/May/76 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
kjacks ??/1976 Lead

Laybacked past the crux, got scared, reversed for rest and then used the peg to find huge jug just 1 move past the layback - claimed jelly brained moral victory!

with Ken Lax
Mark Kemball 19/Oct/75 Lead
Bolt Phobia 18/May/75 AltLd
with John Broadwell
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead
Martin Bennett 10/Sep/73 -
with Geordie Ord
Martin Bennett 10/Sep/73 -
with Geordie Ord
rogerskews 02/Jul/73 -
with Keith Jenkins
Dave Musgrove 30/Jun/73 Lead
with John Midgley
Steve Clegg ?/Aug/71 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1971 Lead
greenbuoy 05/Aug/70 2nd
with Terry Taylor
Seymore Butt ??/1970 -
Gordon Stainforth 26/Oct/68 Lead

Repeat, only led this time. 2 PA

with Mike Sharp
Gordon Stainforth 25/Aug/68 2nd

Done, in 1968 guidebook style, with 2 pegs for aid. I did it free 17 years later.

with John Stainforth
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/68 2nd

We didn't use the peg and it was only HVS then.

with Dick Curtis
Hidden 11/Jun/67 Lead
jcw 19/Nov/66 2nd
with David Unwin
mikej 27/Sep/66 Lead
with John ? and Steve ?
Hidden 16/Jul/66 AltLd
mikej 19/Jun/66 Lead
with Mike Byles
eroica64 29/May/66 2nd
with Al Morrow
eroica64 03/Apr/66 Lead

Climbed using the then standard peg for aid - HVS.

with Dave Thompson from caravan
eroica64 ??/1965 2nd

HVS - peg for aid.

with Colin -, Nick Hawes
uphillnow ??/1963 2nd

Climbed periodically from 1963. Most recent lead 3.6.2011 with Trevor Good some 48 years later. Rather different from early ascents when I placed engineering nuts on cord as the protection.

with chris boulton
oldmanofmow 01/Jul/61 Lead

Found it easier than last time but still hard enough. Pete was impressed.

oldmanofmow ??/1960 Lead

Great route, someone had crapped on the belay ledge.

oldmanofmow 23/Apr/59 AltLd

Ron Johnson RUMC. Ron led the long crack. I thought it quite hard getting over the bulge

eroica64 ??/0000 Lead

Second did not follow so an ab down to recover the gear. HVS grade as peg used for aid.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 83
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 76
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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