Rockfax Description
Smart climbing that is low in the grade. Start at a pocketed yellow streak just left of Banshee's thin crack.
Reach up to the pockets and take these to a peg. Move up to another peg on the right (on Banshee) and make a long move to a flat hold at the base of a slim groove, peg. Climb the left wall of the groove to meet a horizontal crack and finish on good holds to the right. Cable abseil station above and left. © Rockfax

G A Jenkin, M Ward, M J Crocker, T Penning 03/Jun/1989

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Stanners 04/Feb Lead rpt

tricky move in the middle so did just end up slapping for the flat hold!

afrosam 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Nice climbing

with DaveX
DaveX 20/Sep/16 2nd dog

Got pumped after lack of warm up and rushing to get up this before the last of the daylight disappeared. Had to rest before pulling over the top annoyingly. Enjoyable route to head back and lead.

with Afrosam
Nathan Chrismas 21/Aug/16 TR dog

Started off strong, couldn't figure a move halfway up, got pumped and blew it.

with Timms
Justin T 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Thought I might have done this before but I hadn't logged it and didn't remember anything about it.

with Nancy
catty_9 14/Aug/16 2nd

Lovely moves but very pumpy. Three rests

Angrypenguin 14/Aug/16 2nd dog

Got absolutely beasted. Not my style.

Hidden 14/Aug/16 Lead dog
Pippa 04/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Matthew Thompson
Dan0Me 15/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Geoff P
Hidden 11/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/16 2nd dog
WillAndrew 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Adam B
Wendy Watthews 21/Jun/16 TR rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/16 TR dog
Alex_RhodesUK 27/May/16 2nd dog

Heavens opened!

Hidden 24/May/16 TR rpt
richsmithinbristol 11/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Link up of the Banshee to the end of Rancho. Great way of raising a pump!

shoulders 10/Apr/16 2nd

banshee into ranch0

kenneM 02/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Chris
hutchay 21/Mar/16 Lead dog
Caspian Johnson 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S
gazhbo 27/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hugobristol 10/Feb/16 Lead rpt
Hugobristol 09/Feb/16 Lead dog

Good falling practice..

with Thom
Hidden 09/Feb/16 2nd dog
Wendy 30/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
emdawes 29/Dec/15 Lead O/S

First e3 lead!

Hugobristol 03/Nov/15 Lead rpt

One of the few dry (ish) routes around! after the crack each hold was soaking- i took off my top and used it to dry the ledge before eventually topping out in the dark. Brilliant.

with Thom, Eleanor
Hidden 03/Nov/15 2nd dog
Hugobristol 01/Nov/15 Lead RP

Third go today. Found the upper headwall (after the crack) quite hard to read and got really pumped on my second go!

felixizzy 20/Jul/15 Lead β

First E3 lead. On pre-placed gear and in the drizzle. Nice route I thought.

with Mike
kenneM 30/May/15 2nd O/S
with Chris
Cheese Monkey 28/May/15 2nd β

One to lead

with Peter M
Hugobristol 27/May/15 Lead dnf

Got to the flat hold (just!) then couldnt work out the upper section- the top peg works though! finished up banshee, great route though- psyched to try again.

with Dave
Katsmiff 10/May/15 2nd dog

Slipped of a foothold at the very start through lack of concentration. So started again and made it clean. Though it was quite pumpy. Small but good crimpers.

Martin Bagshaw 10/May/15 Lead dog

just didn't make that one hard move.

Legs 10/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Feb/15 2nd dog
Nick Russell 27/Feb/15 Lead rpt

Nice route to get a pump on.

Rebs 27/Feb/15 2nd dnf
hankyc 12/Oct/14 2nd dog

went wrong handed seconding crux so hung on rope, need to come back for the lead now! definatley worth some stars

Ricky Rocks 20/Aug/14 2nd rpt
daniel hobbs ?/Aug/14 Lead
remus 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good fun.

brices 22/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Remus
Hidden 03/Jul/14 TR O/S
pheotleyr 01/Jul/14 2nd β


andy dunn 13/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom
LucasHarazin 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
just one more 01/Jun/14 2nd
Alex Winter 26/May/14 Lead rpt
with A. Monks, M. Gibbings
squicky 15/May/14 TR dog

Pumpy pumpy. Especially straight after Banshee.

with PeteM
tobydunford 02/Apr/14 Lead β
with Harry Martin
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd dog
Ollie B 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt

2nd a few weeks ago.

with O.Lancett
Cheese Monkey 30/Dec/13 TR dog

Fine up to crux :(

with Neil
Alex Winter 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Hottest day of the year. Sweated like a bastard.

skippington 22/Jun/13 Lead β

Very nice. Sustained and interesting, keeps on coming...

Hidden 24/May/13 Lead RP
AJM 24/May/13 2nd rpt
AlexD 06/May/13 2nd
with Ed
Ed Babs 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
Derek Ryden ?/May/13 Lead dog

Very sustained. Got foot stuck in crack, hence two rests on pegs. Very hot day.

with David Coley
Alex Winter 29/Apr/13 Lead

Second try. Got above the crux on the first go and then fannied about until I was too boxed to carry on. Felt fine next go. Good route.

with Nick
Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Nice climb, took it pretty steady. Made a false start on the top (too far left) but sorted myself out after a rest

Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Kevster 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 17/Feb/13 2nd dog
HarryB 12/Feb/13 TR dog
with Shunt
Kemics 08/Dec/12 TR RP

Fell first attempt. Clean 2nd and 3rd. Time for a lead...just really didnt like the look of the pegs.

grp 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Good stuff, sequency crux on pockets n little crimps up to the flat hold, rest is fairly straightforward, felt nice n steady

with Andy
shoulders 11/Nov/12 2nd
richsmithinbristol 11/Nov/12 Lead
BeccaSnowden 21/Oct/12 Lead RP

So close to the onsight! (got 2nd go ground up) Deserves at least one star.

with Tom
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead β
Brian H 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James Marshall 18/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Donald
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
cem 06/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Heart not in it: gave up at the first peg - wasn't pumped

cem 06/Sep/12 2nd β
drcorbasisgod ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt
s.c.white 30/Aug/12 -
with Dave Simpson
Pete Rigby 22/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Fez
Garrouli 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Northern Pete
Pete Rigby 14/Aug/12 Lead dnf
with Gary
AJM 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Need to work on commitment on trad more still. Got quite pumped, but hung in there and got it sorted in the end.

with Tomar
Hidden 03/Aug/12 2nd
mikeshewring 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 09/Jun/12 2nd dog


with Rich
richsmithinbristol 09/Jun/12 Lead
Spacetourist 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Lydia
tombeasley 31/May/12 2nd β
Pippa 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 16/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Spacetourist 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Good route, deserves a star, but no way is it E3, E2 max.

Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
al99 17/Jan/12 Lead dog
frank ramsay 18/Dec/11 Lead

Very cold, freezing hands. Good route.

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 18/Dec/11 2nd
Quarryboy 27/Nov/11 Lead β

Very nearly blew it at the top soo soo pumped trying to read the final sequence. Onsight/ Flash, Rob gave me plenty of beta but I had to improvise a little in places since it didn't turn out to be quite how I had pictured. First E3 in this style.

JamesRich 19/Nov/11 2nd dnf

Was pretty tired and really struggled but another good effort by Rob.

Stanners 19/Nov/11 Lead β

Had a look whilst abbing from 'banshee'. Decided it was game on when I got back down. Not much harder than banshee so "soft in the grade" felt right. Soooo pleased once I was at the top, I felt on top of the world. First E3 lead. Good move to the flat hold half way up!

with James Rich
Toby Dunn 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 12/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Toby
drcorbasisgod 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jack_F 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great fluid climbing throughout

Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Ricky Rocks 13/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with matty
thomasadixon 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

This wall always feels more pumpy than I'd expect.

with Quico
LisaA 27/Aug/11 2nd dog
AlistairB 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
andy dunn 05/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Mike, Darren
andy dunn 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tom, J
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S


Gibbo 01/Jul/11 TR
with Kev Little, Maddy moore
Adam Lincoln 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Si Tappin
Tomar 14/Jun/11 Lead β

Looked at the line and gear placements while abing off Banshee. Good route.

with Tom
tommytuffa 14/Jun/11 Lead β
with tomar
lukehodson 24/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 19/May/11 Lead RP

Felt much easier this time round. Good route.

with Dan P
Jon_Warner 17/May/11 Lead dog

No warm up, got flash pump, tried to downclimb, couldn't. A good safe route and one to lead without rests next time.

with Dan P
lukehodson 08/May/11 Lead O/S

Perhaps I missed something (or went too direct?) but the top scoop felt desperate at 5c

richsmithinbristol 04/May/11 Lead rpt
clams ?/May/11 TR RP
Jim Tan ?/May/11 Lead rpt
richiebongo 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
eddy-on-the-rocks 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Got very pumped worrying about the cams in the break. Then I put a nut in and it was OK

with Gaz
Billg 02/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Richard Hall 13/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Backed off first moves a couple of years ago. Otherwise onsight today.

with Chris Savage
brices 19/Oct/10 Lead O/S

started raining half way up top moves a bit slippy fun getting down the ramp after

Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
just one more 08/Aug/10 Lead
with tony l, tim b
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 22/Apr/10 2nd
with GF
Greg Pittam 07/Apr/10 2nd β
with Raff, Clare Richardson
Hidden 06/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 2nd
scorpia97 27/Aug/09 Lead rpt

first E3 lead.

with Caspian
James Marshall 21/Aug/09 2nd
Greg Pittam 17/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Livi
Al Franks 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Doug
Alasdair88 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Doug
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Marti999 08/Jun/09 Lead β
Paz 23/Apr/09 Lead

Bored of the same old warm ups, this was a mini big link type expedition, Who Me to skyhookable jug, let into Banshee, up to it's jug left of crack and left to pegs on it and Rancho, following that to its crack then exiting leftwards as for Um Bongo and hand traversing the top of the crag to take in the exit move of Us. Then shake out your pump and finish up Stayin' Alive.

with WG
billb ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Bristoldave 19/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Protheroe
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jan/09 2nd rpt
scorpia97 24/Dec/08 2nd
Paz 23/Nov/08 TR rpt
with BJ
Paz 24/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Hidden 12/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Paz 15/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Paz 08/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with WG
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Paz 26/Jul/08 Lead dog

Trying a direct finish.

with WG
Paz 23/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with WG
Lev 08/Jun/08 Lead dog

Had a long rest at the final bolt. Really good route, nice and pumpy

Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd dog
Bristoldave 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Hmm, could have been my first E3, but may have strayed a bit too far L at the top- guidebook says a 'tight line' and on abseil discovered it can be done more directly.

CarolineH 04/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Dave
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2008 -
Paz 23/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with HL
pezzerrr 15/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/07 -
Paul Robertson 08/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Paz
Hidden 19/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Paz 09/May/06 Lead rpt
with AS
Ally Smith 09/May/06 2nd
cornishben 24/Apr/06 Lead dog

Finished out left, via top of diagonal crack, not sure if this is the route?!

with Chris Sims
chris sm 24/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Paz 16/Mar/06 Lead dog

At night(!)

with AS
Hidden ??/2006 -
Jo McCready ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Paz 05/Oct/05 Lead rpt
with RJ
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead rpt
JamieAyres ?/Sep/05 2nd dog

had a tight rope

just one more 12/Jun/05 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
Paz 19/Apr/05 Lead RP

clean from the ground with gear in after slipping off the largest (smooth, slanty) hold on the route.

with PE
joe_alexander 09/Mar/05 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Simon Kimber
Hidden 08/Dec/04 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
simon kimber ??/2002 2nd
with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau
John Southworth 03/Jul/01 Lead
with Jason Parker
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
richsmithinbristol 29/Oct/97 Lead
lowersharpnose 08/Jun/94 Lead O/S

Some of the holds bite back.

with Libby
AndySL 18/Jul/93 TR O/S
with Tim
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
7 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 38
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set