Rockfax Description
II, 270m, 2 - 3 hours. Another popular route which takes the direct line up the middle of the face.
1) Climb the lower snow slope which steepens to around 65 degrees near the top and is often hard ice.
2) Move left to reach the foot of the central icefield and climb this initially on the left before gradually drifting back right.
3) Once underneath the final rocky buttress, traverse right to meet the top of the Chéré Couloir.
Either abseil down this or continue up the mixed ridge to reach the top of the Triangle.
Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax

A Contamine and P Mazeaud 21/Jul/1963

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017.

robgixer 07/Oct/17 Lead

Very icy conditions, taking screws all the way. Couple of pitches lower down then moving together to the top.

JackM92 22/Sep/17 AltLd
mattdennies 17/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Bivied and were on route by 4.30. Bergschrund huge where it is normally crossed, had to be crossed at it's lowest point on right side. Bullet hard ice nearly the whole way up meant we pitched from bergschrund up to the top of the crux. Crux felt a lot steeper than expected with the lack of snow and with only 2 ice screws to place as protection (as 4 were in belays), the whole thing was a bit scary and ran out. Abseiled off from above the crux as we were taking too long due to pitching it, I felt like crap and as the sun hit the route lots of ice and rock were coming down on us. Will be back when there is more neve and less ice!

a_m154 17/Jun/17 2nd dnf

Bivvied overnight and on the route by 430 ish. Bergschrund had opened up. Matt led. Conditions solid ice and felt pretty steep causing us to pitch it with a lack of ice screws. Stopped just above the crux and abbed off as we were running out of time- lots of melting ice and rocks falling!

BushwackerBritz ?/Jun/17 AltLd dnf

Out of condition, to warm. First day Alpine Climbing for me and Chris and got sent back down to the valley with our tails between our legs! Climbing back up to the lift station we all nearly lost the will to live.

with Thom Wright, Chris Davis
Txitxar 18/May/17 Lead
Rhys Deane 22/Mar/17 AltLd
with Jack Matcalf
Hidden 17/Feb/17 AltLd rpt
adie84 ??/2017 -
Hidden 28/Dec/16 AltLd
Shea 28/Dec/16 2nd O/S

mostly moved as one (with little/no gear), did it in a oner and in a rush to get back for last lift. Abseil was a pain, lots of climbers on Chere Couloir. First alpine snow/icefield!

with Jono, Luke
Hidden 07/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Solo
Oliver Smaje ?/Sep/16 2nd
with Rob Taylor
Roberttaylor ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
JoeWilliams 07/Aug/16 AltLd
with Ollie B
Ollie B 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with J.Williams
Matt Harmon 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Only real ice was the first pitch- sustained 70° for about 40m, then just crusty snow for most of the rest of the route until the top two mixed pitches which were pretty good fun.

Sarah Roscoe 06/Jul/16 2nd
CameronH 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

led p3

Kirill 23/Mar/16 AltLd dnf
mike.moss 23/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 02/Nov/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/15 Solo
alexm198 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Misha 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Cruisey day hit before the weather came in late afternoon. Two and a half hours up, moving together all the way with a changeover on the shoulder after the end of the snow and ice section. Alex led up to there on mostly good neve and ice (just occasional crusty snow). I led the top bit, taking a random mixed line to the right of the crest, about the same grade. Nine abs down, which took two hours (four to get to the Chere, four down the Chere and the last one down the approach snow slope and over the mild schrund). That was on 55m and 50m ropes, a bit of a stretch to get to one of the ab stations (though there was an intermediary) and over the schrund but it was just about enough - 2x 60m would be better but we were going lightweight. So nice to move with light packs after our heavily laden outing on the Noire! Glad we abbed off as just after we got down a big serac avalanche came down the Tacul normal route. Fortunately no one was caught up in it but the PGHM arrived within a few minutes to check it out and give a lift down to a team that was descending just above the slide. Scary!

with Alex
JHolland ?/Sep/15 -

The route was done for the first time in almost two months the day before... massively refreshed by the snow over the preceding days. Thin in places, and some pretty horrible granular snow offering not too much in the way of security, but long sections of hard blue ice/neve at the crux lower section. Rapped the chere couloir. Excellent long and varied route-ice, fast snow romping and easy mixed. Nice to tick an ice route after such a hot summer!

tskelhon ?/Sep/15 AltLd
clmacdonald ?/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd
DaveThexton 09/May/15 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 09/May/15 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
buffalo606 ??/2015 -
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead
Steve Wakeford 02/Oct/14 AltLd

Moved together. Dropped glove at top, rapped Cherie, found it at bottom!

with Mikael Abrahamsson
morpcat 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
wilkinscl 01/Sep/14 AltLd
davkeo ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Used two 50m ropes and only had 2 ice screws. Ended up doing most of directissime as I sought some rock to sling a belay.

annak 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
aljones91 24/Aug/14 AltLd

An awesome route! Perfect neve the entire way!! Abseiled down cherre couloir to finish!

with Ben hester
Big Lee 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Led all the climbing from the first belay above the bergschrund. Perfect snow conditions and lot of it for late August.

peter.ravenscroft27 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together apart from crux's, Scottish Grade 3 would say. awesome ice. great route.

with Joe Mann
Mr. K 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Prior to this day, no track in Normal Route to Tacul was there due to the heavy snowfall, while we spotted several parties walk up on this day. We set off Col du Midi at 6:15am, finished the route at 12:00, summitted Tacul at 13:30, descended via Chère Couloir with a single 60-metres rope with 20-metres pull-cord, and arrived at Col du Midi at 19:20. The ice conditions were all right - Scottish grade III ish. Lesson: Light is not always right; you had better take another full-rope if the multi-pitch abseil is planned... Very valuable experience anyhow.

with Kyle
Michael 27/Jul/14 -
joelevanschamonix 06/Jul/14 AltLd β

with Tim Oliver
Hidden 06/Jul/14 AltLd
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Great climb. Entire route was ice, swang alternate pitches.

Ewan Russell 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Kelly, Luke, Tom Nichols
MSchobitz 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic ice and neve all the way! Great conditions at the moment! Bottom section has 70 degree ice and top has some tricky rock climbing and thin ice crux. Topped out and had enough time to climb Mont Blanc du Tacul as well.

Gumery 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Grant
laurence_falconer ?/Jun/14 -
with joe innes
niallsash ?/Jun/14 -
Piglet69 ?/Jun/14 -
Grant Fulton ?/May/14 Lead
with Johnny
Gumery ?/May/14 2nd
with Grant
wilkinscl ??/2014 -

Abed down the west face of the triangle instead of down chere which was a mistake as it's a long and half equipped decent.

Hidden ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Nov/13 AltLd
Dougbart 01/Nov/13 AltLd
with Iain
danJBA 02/Oct/13 AltLd
Kayan 02/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
geoff.comley 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Long route when pitched, should of moved together as didn't have any technical sections

Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
machars 23/Aug/13 AltLd

Moved together. Didn't quite get to summit of tacul- probably a bit high for first route of trip!

Hidden 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd
jimmatthews 15/Aug/13 AltLd
Bruce S 19/Jul/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 04/Jul/13 Solo O/S

Moved together the whole way. Definitely feeling the lack of acclimatisation on the walk back up to the Midi!

Hidden 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
HosteDenis ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
thomaspomfrett 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Neil (Conville/Alps)
Alex Munnery 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Luke Duckworth
paulmck 03/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 14/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/May/13 Lead
Jacob Forshaw 05/May/13 2nd O/S
Kris ?/Apr/13 Lead
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/12 AltLd
scottie390 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Ali D 30/Jul/12 -
with Harry B
HarryB 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions! topped out on the Tacul and missed the last lift by 5 mins!

with Al
trivett 07/Jul/12 AltLd

Cold morning with fresh snow, belay after the first pitch in constant spindrift, boarderline powder avalanche, the coldest belay I've ever used... otherwise fantastic neve and weather nearly all the up! Unfortunately had to be down to catch the bus back to the uk so no time to gain the summit, abseiled down chere couloir.

with Mike Hood
Mike Hood 07/Jul/12 AltLd
with trivett
Tdavy01 29/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
pawelx 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

3rd cable car from Chamonix, at the base of the climb around 10:00. Took way too long because of lack of acclimatization (did it as a weekend trip from London). Hardest bit was not the 60 degree ice pitch, but mixed climbing at the very end of the climb - literally the last 10 meters or so.

with Murilo
Murilo Lessa 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Pawel Zdziarski
Hidden 11/Mar/12 AltLd dnf
sam_lav ??/2012 -
sam_lav ??/2012 -
nickcj 30/Oct/11 -
Hidden 11/Oct/11 -
Hidden 16/Aug/11 2nd O/S
robpartridge 03/Aug/11 Solo

Hard ice + small boots = burst toes

Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Phil Emerson ?/Aug/11 AltLd
np134 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

descended in a white out, missed the last lift and ended up sleeping in the midi toilets.

with C. Price
GraMc 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

moved together and topped out on the tacul, nice route.

with phil emerson
James Smith 14/Jul/11 Solo O/S

about 2 hours from the shrund. really enjoyable top gully even though the ice was a bit dodgy.

RKernan 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S

All icy, very tiring. led all the pitches, first proper ice lead, ended up missing the car and spending the night in the Midi toilets. D'oh.

with Niall Browne
Hidden 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Petarghh 09/Jun/11 AltLd

Backed off just below steeper ice section, due to large spindrift avalanches making progress difficult and dangerous, abbed off peg belay then abalakov over the schrund. found the route easy, moving together for a section then pitching a section of stepper ice.

supos 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Lars Fjendbo
Rollo 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, pitched the two steep ice sections but otherwise mostly moving together. The descent of the back was another matter... multiple absiels as night fell, back to the Cosmiques after midnight. Don't start this one at midday!

with Mike
mike.moss 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
andybuckley 29/Aug/10 AltLd

Chere Gully was looking intimidating and rocky, so bailed to this. Very icy, and a second alpine route for Rich and Carrie, so we ended up pitching most of it and running over time. Most belays off not-so-great ice screws, and the final long traverse across 50 degree ice had to be rather scarily moved together between dodgy screws. Not great conditions, but not retreatable in that condition either. Abbed down Chere Gully, which in retrospect would have been fine a nd a lot safer! Escape up to the Midi from the Cosmiques Hut the next day in 100 kph wind, snow and white-out was also... interesting!

with Carrie Bolton, Rich Kemp
Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
tjmillen ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Ben Briggs 27/Jun/10 Solo O/S

Climbed and skied back down the route.

with Brendan
Cardi 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Ice pitch in middle was a bit cheeky, as was the hanging belay on screws. Snow was decent. Continued up to MB du Tacul

with Ryan
Hidden 23/Jun/10 AltLd dnf
benny_m 23/Jun/10 AltLd dnf
Charlie Evans 09/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Unai
Hidden 06/Apr/10 -
Hardonicus 11/Mar/10 2nd dnf

We did the first two ice pitches one afternoon as a warm up and to check out the Chere Couloir for the next day.

with Tom Woods
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
wheelsucker ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
JDSwain 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Moved together with me at front. About hour and a half base to top. First alpine route. Very pleasant

with Tom Ripley
joese7en ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
sam820 29/Jun/09 2nd
BorisVBlade 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Neil Dowse, Sam Davies
Hidden 07/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
adw07 10/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

The central line on the triangle, a great route. Got off the main snow face onto the ridge just as the sun hit, took about 3 hours in total. Simul climbed most of the way, only pitching the last exit chimney.

with Nick Donohue
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead dnf
nickdonohue ?/Aug/08 -

Superb climb, good ice so moved together nearly all way, one half pitch in the narrows. Continued to the top of Mt Blanc du Tacul then descended the NW flank.

with Warren ?
robertporter ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 21/Jul/07 AltLd dnf

From the Refuge des Cosmiques, poor weather. We were moving very slow & would have had difficulty finishing so bailed out wile retreat was still an easy option.

with Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse
bandersnatch ?/Jul/06 Lead
with Mairi B
lberry ?/Jun/06 2nd
edek_w ?/Mar/04 -
Hidden ?/Sep/02 AltLd
1202alarm ?/Mar/02 -
Les Ross 01/Jul/00 AltLd
nige pacer ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
bandersnatch ?/Jul/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
alpinist63 ??/1994 AltLd
CMacD ?/Jul/93 -
mattnuttall 17/Aug/92 AltLd O/S

Cable car to Midi late in day. Descended to camp below route on Mer de Glace. Started in dark – route about 6 pitches of brilliant ice. Finished with ascent of Mont Blanc Du Tacul 3977m Descent (some tricky ) to drop tent and back to Midi for last cable car down.

with Michel Mounier, Matthieu Mounier
djdavies 11/Aug/92 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
35 users have this on their wishlist
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
Votes cast 16
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set