Rockfax Description
A popular little climb that follows the tapering open groove right of the steep white-stained wall. Start below the open groove.
Climb the technical groove, past 2 pegs, to a ledge and big flake. Finish up easier ground to a belay at the large fir tree. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
As a result of recent rock fall (2008) the route is now to be considered corectly graded at E2 (it was previously a serious soft touch)
The lower peg is long gone, just the second remains, high in the groove.
No pegs in place in route as of 17/05/16

M Jeffs, D Mortimer 1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Euan Todd 24/Jul Lead O/S

Wow, found this much more involved than I thought it might be! I thought this was actually quite serious, never desperate but only found one runner in the groove section that was worth much. Had a foot grease off in the heat, but just managed to hold it. Glad I had someone holding the ropes that I trust - I think Digga described belay duty as 'emotional'! Would be faaar easier (to commit to at least) with pegs. For what it's worth, I thought 5b up to the good wire slot halfway up. The gear in the block looked ok, but I think the block would blow out if you fell on it. Once you've got the good wire, I only found a couple of crap micros to protect the crux, definite 5c move - one of them might have held but really not sure. I think with a peg there, it would be soft E2. As it is, solid E2 5c **.

with Digga
Digga 24/Jul 2nd β

Found this hard with several tricky moves through the groove. Bold and serious, great lead from Euan!

tobydunford 07/Jul 2nd rpt
with Jamie evans
jamieevans 07/Jul Lead
redjerry 07/Jun Lead O/S

fairly serious. Tricky gear.

with Robert Fielding
Angrypenguin 13/May Lead dnf

Turns out that when you get higher it's further to fall. Ouch.

with Cat
Hidden 13/May 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 06/May Lead dnf
with Cat
Hulda 30/Aug/16 2nd
with Pete
Lil_Pete 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Two pegs my arse!

Pippa 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Matthew Thompson
just one more 17/May/16 2nd rpt
hutchay 15/May/16 Lead G/U

No pegs on the route any more, felt hard. Well chuffed to have got it after falling onto a peg the first time I tried. Great route.

miriamclaire 15/May/16 2nd dog
with hutchay
Tom Brierley Gore 04/May/16 Lead rpt

3rd repeat, this one seems to get more enjoyable each time :P nice technical moves, gear is solid once you've found it. Shijing cleaned it way to fast on 2nd, time to lead!

Cheese Monkey ?/May/16 Lead β

Both pegs missing makes it feel pretty serious. Crux gear is hard to get in and not great

Martin Bagshaw 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson
LJKing 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Paul Clarkson
deklan 18/Mar/16 Lead
HarrietLeeMerrion 18/Mar/16 2nd
with Declan
Peter Durin ??/2016 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Pohil 18/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with SP
omaskrey 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Luke, joe c, cuc, arandall
JoeCoxson 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, better gear than it looks from the floor. Balanced and techy climbing sustained throughout the groove. Belayed the whole crew up afterwards

arandall 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
lukegorman 19/Sep/15 2nd dog
Jack Porteous 10/Jul/15 Lead dog

First E2!

with Kimmers
tobydunford 07/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
nickmoulden 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
DanHB 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead G/U
Tom Brierley Gore 11/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Great to repeat this after such a long time, has that scary Avon Gorge feel but is surprisingly safe, well protected and has enjoyable if short climbing. As previous climber posted there is a slightly loose - very small block at bottom of grove, however IMO this is not an issue as it is well jammed in place and can actually be used for gear.

kenneM 25/May/15 Lead dog

Came off after the peg - not a soft E2 anymore! There is a loose block towards the bottom of the grove. Good enough route though!

jammy4536 13/May/15 2nd β
with Hugo Aiken
Hugobristol 13/May/15 Lead O/S

Great route. Gear is much better than i expected, not run out nor bold. The moves are tricky and technical but are punctuated with rests.

with Jamie
evhall 08/Feb/15 Lead dnf

slipped off after getting the peg...peg held fine - But I manged to break my talus on the way down :( - still a great climb - will be back!!!

with colin
zcsharp 17/Sep/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 17/Sep/14 2nd O/S
brices 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Great little route

with Llinos
spidey 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with luke clarke
LucasHarazin 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jackc 12/Jul/14 Lead RP
Tom Harper 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Some extremely questionable gear made me think twice about going for the crux. Nice route that left me feeling broken after getting back on the ground

pheotleyr 01/Jul/14 Lead RP

Quite some tricky bits.

nickwhimster 25/Jun/14 2nd

put foot on peg

monsteratt 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Good route. Took me a while to work out/commit the crux. Great to be climbing in the gorge in such nice weather!

with Nick Whimster
skippington 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Dean Russell 27/May/14 Lead O/S
Jack_F 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Remus
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S

IJKL - 5316

with Helen
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Rosea Day 24/Nov/13 Lead β

1st pitch

Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 04/Sep/13 Lead
shoulders 04/Sep/13 2nd rpt

a nightime epic which i am surprised to find i led 18 years ago!

pheotleyr 06/Aug/13 TR dog

Good climb. Did all moves, but had a rest.

with Mirco Traxion
Alex Winter 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice little number. Fell into a thorn bush whilst lowering Jake off.

jiles 20/Jul/13 2nd
David Maddison 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
evhall 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

really nice route - worth more than 1 star!

with goat
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice technical moves up the groove, too bad it eases off so much after...

with Richard
TDSvejstrup 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
zcsharp 05/Jun/13 2nd
with Danish
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd β
Pete Rigby 17/May/13 Lead
with Kelli Roberts, Jim Tan
kelliroberts3 17/May/13 2nd
with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby
Kemics 04/May/13 2nd rpt
with Neil
haydng 23/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Tony
Anthony Dixon 23/Apr/13 -
Nick Russell 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good resting points below the hard moves. Climbs nicely. 5c for sure

Hidden 09/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Aaron Lines 08/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Dan
markpollak ??/2013 -
AJM 15/Nov/12 Lead β

After Mike, on his gear (it's mostly placed from rests anyway, bar the peg) with a piece or two of my own too. Took ages to work out the sequences, techy.

Mike Goldthorp 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Great route, really appealing line and yields some quality technical climbing, solid spaced gear, peg looked pretty good to me.

with Andy
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James S 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with caleb
Kemics 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Had to get bit tactical, so a few down climbs after placing the first set of small wires. Fiddled in a fairly solid brassie just below the peg (and second one for ornamental purposes) between the two and the peg, something would have held. Went for it, one slightly desperate move slapping up the arête. Very balancey/techy climbing. Seemed steady for e2/5c

with James S
AlexD 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
Dave Ing 11/Sep/12 TR dnf

Worked it but couldn't figure out a move 3m before the peg.

msoldn 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S

bit polished and first of the two pegs is broken off, making the crux a bit bolder

with Sam (tree surgent)
riddle 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S


james.slater 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Simple for E2, and no really difficult moves, nice groove climbing though!

Didymus 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Josh
Hidden 03/Aug/12 2nd
Dan Lane 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Andy Turner
cymjt ?/Aug/12 -
markfromstoke 26/Jul/12 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 26/Jul/12 Lead RP

Tested the peg on the OS attempt, it held.

with Mark
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd β
SGD 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Hard, insecure and scary! Brillant :) I thought this was harder than New Horizons 2??

with phil wilkinson, Jonny WMC
tom.e 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Charlie Everett
Pete Rigby 27/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Climbed rubbish

with Kelli Roberts
Aaron Lines 26/Feb/12 Lead
Ed Babs 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Clay C 16/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Will A
CRiddiford 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

on jonny's gear

with Mark, Jonny
mark20 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Had to use technique so it felt hard

thomasadixon 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Safe, if a bit worrying. Take small micros.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 25/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Quarryboy 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S

This route had been on my mind for over a week as one I really wanted to do. Thought about it quite a bit really and when I got a call from Rob after a few days of sitting on my arse doing diddle squat I couldn't resist the opportunity to get on it. In a nutshell the route exceeded its reputation by a mile. Its an awesome route, really worth doing! 2 good wires protect the section leading up to the solitary peg which to be honest aint all that great. No desperately hard moves but several balancey technical 5b/c bits. (And for future reference): This is the third route I've done in my new anasazi verdes and its really a testament to how good they really are. Iwas able to stand on polished nubbin's and my feet still stayed- great shoes!

Stanners 12/Aug/11 2nd O/S


jchenoweth 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Marc
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
karenhh 11/Jun/11 2nd
Tom Brierley Gore 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

My 2nd E2... this one felt considerably harder and more technical, enjoyable climb.

Jon_Warner 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Good route.

with Tim
scorpia97 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
rapidrich 29/Apr/11 TR O/S

Awesome route, tricky central section

with Simon
Justin T 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Cherry
AlexRenshaw 06/Mar/11 Lead
with Thomas Renshaw
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
Hidden 31/Aug/10 TR β
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Hidden ??/2010 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
just one more 28/Jul/09 Lead
with Max B
Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead RP
lukehodson 02/May/09 2nd rpt

felt much harder this time!

Hidden 22/Apr/09 2nd rpt
lukehodson 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S

first E2 onsight! good route, felt pretty hard

Dr Caterpillar 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden 19/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Paz 19/Nov/08 2nd rpt
with AM2
RagingPuffin 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Harry Allen
Al Franks 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Not as hard as i thought it would be and the gear is pretty good

with Harry Allan
Hidden 03/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Lev 03/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Paz 18/Jul/08 Lead rpt

Proper E2 now. A good wire's available a bit lower than the old block, beneath the gaston on the right in the groove, below the obvious worn slot (which I couldn't get to take anything much).

with WG
Hidden 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Paz 15/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with WG
chiverstom 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 07/Nov/07 Lead rpt

Prev seconded

with douglas
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead O/S
Paz 23/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with AB
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/Sep/06 Lead

nice and obvious

with burt
phsharpy 13/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Adrian
chris sm 09/May/06 2nd β
cornishben ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
tom.e 25/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
cornishben 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
Marcus ??/2006 -
Jo McCready ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
sdi ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Tom K
Hidden ??/2006 -
_m.cox_ ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
Ally Smith ?/Dec/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/04 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 04/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Boxy 28/Feb/04 Lead β
with Mick
Paz ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with TS
DavidR 03/Jun/02 2nd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
KRB 05/May/02 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
pezzerrr ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Lev 28/Oct/01 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
gimmer ??/2001 -
Jim Brooke 10/Aug/00 2nd rpt
with James Latham
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Jim Brooke 27/Aug/99 Lead dog
with Liz Cant
John Southworth ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/99 2nd rpt
guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead rpt
craig h 23/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Phil B
richsmithinbristol 18/Feb/98 Lead O/S
r0b 17/Feb/98 2nd
with Richard Smith
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
mikej 29/Mar/97 TR
with Nick Salmon
Hidden 17/Sep/96 2nd
mike fenwick ?/May/96 TR
shoulders ?/Jun/95 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 2nd
with John Williams
duncan 05/Feb/95 2nd
with Dan Donovan
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Roget 02/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
chris sm 28/Mar/94 Lead

First E1 (now E2)

with Martin Sime
AndySL 23/May/93 Lead β
with Mark
Marti999 24/Jan/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/92 Lead
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/89 2nd
charlesmfrench 01/Oct/88 2nd O/S
with Andy Tallent
Pete Nugent 12/May/88 Lead β

had 2nd in May 1986 (E1,5b at the time).

Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
clark alston ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Alan Pow
JamieAyres ?/Jun/86 2nd O/S
with Phil Windall
Pete Nugent 18/May/86 2nd
adriandesouza ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S
duncan ?/Sep/84 Solo O/S
Steve Lewis 08/May/83 2nd
with Clive Curle
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Mark Kemball 13/Nov/82 2nd
with Paul "Curly" Williamson
Hidden ??/1982 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 45
High ??
Mid ??
Low ??
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set