Rockfax Description
A worthwhile and pulse enhancing route making the most of the slabby wall left of The Arete. Start 2m left of The Arete.
1) 25m. Climb up and diagonally left without much gear to a gap in the bushes. Move left across and up a slab to a tree belay below a wide rounded runnel.
2) 4b, 26m. Take the smooth wide runnel onto the open smooth slab. Move up a thin, fading crack to its end and then up the bold slab to an easing. Continue up the steadier slab above to Lunchtime Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon sub-VSes, UK Lonely Leads, South West Climbs for a Northerner, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist.

Rp20 06/Sep AltLd O/S
AWalker96 22/Aug Lead
with Jono Hawkins
TrevorCruse 21/Aug Lead O/S
with Malcolm
JoeCoxson 10/Aug Solo O/S

One move of 4b

rosatb 06/Aug AltLd
steve-grigg 06/Aug AltLd rpt
with rosatb
GeorgeR 25/Jul AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Joel Phillips
JGriffiths 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Gravy
thompsonjr21 25/Jul 2nd rpt
FernandoHidalgo 08/Jul 2nd O/S

Climbed it in one pitch as part of a speed climbing challenge. Measured 4m55s

with Danny Brown
Hidden 06/Jul AltLd rpt
tonto169 01/Jul -
Westy 29/Jun AltLd O/S

Led P1

NiallN 27/Jun AltLd O/S
with George Cave
67hours 27/Jun AltLd O/S
with Niall AMC
lieraza 09/Jun Lead O/S

Fun! Slab section is great.

with Sarju, Julio
eoghan_wiles 25/May 2nd
badgerjockey 24/May Lead O/S
BStar 08/May AltLd rpt

Every time this catches me out! I swear I must have the worlds worst memory because I can never remember the 'easiest' way up this one.

with Rachael
Rachael88 08/May AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, my first lead in the gorge!

with Adam
PastyBoy84 07/May Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May 2nd O/S
TommyKips 06/May Lead O/S
with Ross Stephenson
Burleyg 02/May 2nd O/S
with Paul Sheridan
leobold 29/Apr -
leobold 29/Apr -
Ali D 28/Apr Lead
with Nick pest
cpoad 21/Apr AltLd rpt

Got the second pitch clean this time.

with John S
jessie 18/Apr 2nd O/S

Second pitch bold

with Ciaran
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr 2nd
MaximusP 16/Apr Lead
with Rhys
rosso 11/Apr Lead O/S
with Sam H
Gibbo 11/Apr 2nd

P2 only - P1 of Sinister

with James Thompson
luke13 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 09/Apr Lead O/S
lottiec 09/Apr 2nd O/S
with Mikey P
raidiun 08/Apr Lead O/S

Need to learn to place more than psycho gear. Got to break in P2 slab then almost slipped/died/cried.

hutchay 04/Apr 2nd rpt
with G
c357 04/Apr AltLd O/S
miriamclaire 26/Mar Lead O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 26/Mar 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jan Lead
Ashley King 14/Jan Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route, first pitch is very easy but important to protect the traverse, second pitch is much challenging but much more interesting. The slab can be scary in places, but by moving left and using small hand holds is still easy.

with Sam Young
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Robertspd2 27/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Jim blackford 10/Nov/16 Lead O/S

2nd pitch has just enough gear

with Arthur
Hidden 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead rpt
meinecke 23/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

rosso 12/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Anouk Spelt 28/Sep/16 AltLd
with Cara
Joe Mathers 23/Sep/16 -
andrew549 16/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

with Luke C
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
foobar123 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch in the rain so p2 was wet when Wheatcroft got to it! Felt pretty thin and precarious on p2 but managed it.

with Ed Wheatcroft, Robbie Cecere
tcn_2002 10/Aug/16 Lead
Angrypenguin 27/Jul/16 Solo rpt
AlexPaterson 05/Jul/16 2nd
DavidWilby 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Rachael88 05/Jul/16 2nd
with Adam
BStar 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Tom McGurty, Rachael
Circus 21/Jun/16 AltLd
with Seren
Hidden 21/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/16 Lead O/S
sambosanquet101 10/Jun/16 AltLd
with Lucas Fries
mattharper 07/Jun/16 2nd
WillAndrew 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
Legs 02/Jun/16 2nd
Win-yei 02/Jun/16 Lead

Completed in one pitch

with Max Coney
mlcumberlidge 02/Jun/16 AltLd
dmetcalfe 08/May/16 AltLd

Definitely HS for second pitch. Nice route

with Mike P
Matt Smith 08/May/16 Lead O/S

The slab on p2 felt very runout and hard for the grade. Saw a slow-worm at belay.

Hidden 08/May/16 2nd O/S
Mpaynter 08/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 02/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/16 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/16 Lead
Gibbo 24/Apr/16 AltLd

P2 only lead by James ....started up P1 Sinister as people on firet pitch

with James Thompson
Kemics 24/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Link with first pitch of clarion and slab pitch of Dexter. Nicer line and less scrappy. Found the slab sketchy in crap shoes!

with Hebe
Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
cpoad 17/Apr/16 AltLd dog

Pulled on gear on second pitch.

with John S
nathanjmasters 16/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Alasdair Robertson
riff156 03/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
with Jo Smith
Hidden 02/Apr/16 AltLd
my 02/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

Me P1, Matt P2 (P2 Bold for a HS!?).

Hidden 02/Apr/16 AltLd rpt
Trevers 31/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Difficult, difficult, lemon difficult. And bloody scary. Had to back off, then lovely Will and Adam ran up The Arete to retrieve the gear I'd left.

with BStar, Will
BStar 20/Mar/16 Lead rpt

P2 still makes me think and this was the 3rd time of doing it. I got distracted by small holds on the left instead of heading straight up the crack. HS every day of the week, it has never been a severe!

with Rachael
Rachael88 20/Mar/16 2nd

Climbed the second pitch. How delicate it is gets me every time!

with Adam
adawson 10/Feb/16 Lead dnf

Slipped and fell on the slab on the 2nd pitch, backed off

with George Caren
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
marconi 23/Dec/15 Lead

A little bit wet on the run out, a little bit scarey, a little bit fun

with jon lloyd
Doug miller 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Ashley King 01/Nov/15 Lead
danieleaston 01/Nov/15 AltLd rpt
with Steve, Ruth
JonoDHawkins 01/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Ash
Steve Bartle 01/Nov/15 AltLd rpt

Climbed as a three with Dan and Ruth. Lead pitch 1. Protection is indeed a bit spaced to begin with. Groundfall potential but straightforward climbing. Pitch 2 ia still bold and exciting for HS!

monkeyru 01/Nov/15 AltLd
with Dan
Pohil 14/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Multi pitch teaching Session 2. Confident second.

with Charles
tim123487 11/Oct/15 AltLd
with Dan guy
Hidden 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
HardmanJ 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch. Moves were easy although i did not trust a single foothold, very polished and fairly scary as gear isnt ideal. Its a bit like climbing a frozen ladder with banana skins for shoes.

9fingerjon 20/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Pitch 2- Matt led 1st pitch of sinister

with Matt
Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/15 2nd O/S
9fingerjon 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Adam bro
Rob Moorcroft 05/Sep/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
joeurwin 03/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave
DaveX 03/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Seconded P1, took the lead for P2

BStar 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Logging as onsight because why would I do it again if I could remember the first time I did it! But seriously, this is not a severe grade, purely for the boldness.

with Rachael
Rachael88 26/Aug/15 2nd

Climbed the first pitch but then absailed off due to it chucking it down!!

with Adam
AshBarnes 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Second pitch

with Gravy
thompsonjr21 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

I led the 1st pitch which was very easy, Ash led second pitch witch was more interesting. Having a large rucksack on made it pretty difficult to retrieve a large hex on the second pitch. Would grade it a Severe rather than a HS

Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
DavidWilby 16/Aug/15 Lead dnf

First pitch was fine, had a bit of a struggle and a slump on p2 before abbing off. Need to get used to limestone again I think..

with Anna
Laurence20 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Mcvarish, Ruaraidh Fairbairn
Mark Salter 29/Jul/15 2nd
with Gareth Lewis, Chris Shorrock
Rob Morgan 22/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Second ascent of this route. Remember the fading crack feeling bold and it still does, good fun. Took William on his first outdoor climb.

with William AMC, Win-yei
Win-yei 22/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Rob
my 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
ali.scott 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Enjoyable route; runout slab on the second pitch is quite exciting.

with Soph
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd
vicky_cairns 21/Jun/15 2nd
with James King, Ross Woodruffe
jamesk93 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/15 AltLd rpt
mikeydee135 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with jem, Patrick C
AndyMcCoy 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/15 TR
casey johns 29/May/15 Lead dnf

Luke cleaned up second with no dramas, rest route.

Guss1 27/May/15 Lead O/S
sorchawilliams 27/May/15 2nd O/S
mrdaniel 22/May/15 2nd
Hidden 21/May/15 Lead
gobbledigook 17/May/15 AltLd O/S

lead P2 found a nice thread at the top of the slab, otherwise not much gear.... after that its a ramble to the top

Hidden 11/May/15 2nd
tcn_2002 10/May/15 2nd
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead
BALD EAGLE 07/May/15 AltLd
with James Pomeroy
Poco Loco 07/May/15 AltLd

Led p2, which isn't a push over!

Hidden 30/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hmgslade 25/Apr/15 2nd
with Jack
Rebs 24/Apr/15 Lead

Finally led it! Great fun

Hidden 24/Apr/15 2nd 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Paul Sheridan
Jim-Roberts-1987 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tony McPhillips
malina 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
Joshthomas 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
ema 05/Apr/15 AltLd
Zolly Whitaker 22/Mar/15 Lead β
with Zoe Hebblethwaite, Laurence Falconer
laurence_falconer 22/Mar/15 2nd
duncanedgley 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Pretty bold 2nd pitch!

with George Caren, Ash King
Maddi Stewart ?/Feb/15 2nd

(Had planned to alt lead and lead the 2nd pitch) But backed off after 1st pitch as hail storm started at anchor point. do again, 2nd pitch looked good.

jammy4536 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Jono Hawkins
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
zcsharp 18/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Lead in the dark

with Sam Hooper
Steve Woollard 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Donald
crater 01/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

led pitch 1 v bold pitch 2, at least HS

with steve
Hidden 18/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
1918hasti 12/Oct/14 AltLd
Theeni 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

I led second pitch

with Matt Hastings, Mike Kennedy
kenneM 12/Oct/14 2nd

Anyone who thinks this is worth 2 stars (or even 1 star!!) needs their head examined!

with Henry Crosby
Hidden 26/Sep/14 AltLd
NickNixon 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
robburgundy 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Bumbum, Pete
laurashaw 21/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Pete Scott 20/Sep/14 2nd

4 person multipitch

hutchay 13/Sep/14 AltLd

Lead first pitch, second pitch has interesting slab sequence.

Alex Winter 04/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Scared myself a bit on the top slab. Disconcertingly thin for the first route of the day.

Rob Morgan 29/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Davidchatterton 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with heyhoot
Angrypenguin 17/Jun/14 2nd β
with Cat
catty_9 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
shaunleonard 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Found this difficult, just the thought of leading it one day terrifies me

with Ian
Hidden 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Benjaminblanc 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing and nicely scary. I thought I had ballsed up the route but it is just very run out. More please.

Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead
Steve Bartle 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
hairy51 ?/Jun/14 AltLd β
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
danieleaston 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Stephan, Saz
saz_b 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Took a while - BOLD!

hp.hunt 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led easy first pitch, seconded more technical p2

with Sam Hooper
BStar 14/May/14 Lead O/S

Graded here at S 4a, West Country Climbs at HS 4b which is more like it. Very bold moves high up on the slab, some tricky moves low down. After millions of years of evolution, all my legs could do was start shaking while 6 meters above me gear... thanks for that...

Rachael88 14/May/14 2nd

My first belaying on twin ropes. Looked like a nice severe from the floor. The second pitch turn out not so nice! Well done Adam for leading.

with Will, Adam
wjcdean 14/May/14 2nd O/S

First pitch done in approach shoes because I am 100% thug4life. Second pitch (horrific, blank slab) made me weep worse than Adam's genitals on a Sunday morning. Never been more glad I wasn't leading!

mikedevcole 13/May/14 Lead O/S
joeallen28 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Some bold moves on the slab way above gear. Felt harder than S.

Hidden 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Slick 09/Apr/14 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
joe bocking 12/Mar/14 2nd O/S
bencaley 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Joe Bocking, Matt Holden
Patrickmartin99 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Bosh
Zolly Whitaker 26/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch seconded second pitch.

with Thom Jenkinson, Laurence Falconer
Hidden 26/Feb/14 2nd rpt
laurence_falconer 26/Feb/14 AltLd
James Jackson ??/2014 -
pasbury ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
L_Games 11/Dec/13 2nd
Stanners 11/Dec/13 2nd rpt

Still feels sketchy fot Severe!

steve_gibbs 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Duncan Brown
Felix Ottey 16/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Went off to the left after crack in top slab, then ran it out for miles probably a new variation of this route maybe HVS 4c?

Steve Woollard 26/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
George.Rowland 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S

4b move well above above gear = HS in my opinion. scary lead.

with Ellie
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
riff156 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
sheelba 02/Sep/13 AltLd
George Frisby 13/Aug/13 Lead β
with Chris
Richardlake 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
will_lake 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tommy.henriksson78 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A nice climb, my first multi-pitch Trad climb.

with Djamal Berraki
Hidden 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
jayyaj 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Mike led P1 and I led P2. Found P2 incredibly bold for the grade.

Hidden 01/Aug/13 AltLd
Cheese Monkey 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Thought I was way off route, belay looks identical to Sinister

with Vienna
Hidden 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
stujamac 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Mitchell Kane, Stephen Downward
Bobling 07/Jun/13 Lead

Did in one pitch. I don't remember crimping on matchsticks way above my gear on many other Severes...maybe I'm just getting fat and old.

with Ali
alidixon 07/Jun/13 2nd
Stuart William 06/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Me - P1 Ben - P2

with Ben F
R_W_M 04/Jun/13 AltLd

More run out than I remembered...

with Tom H
t_hill 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch, Rob led second. An interesting second go at trad leading - pretty sparse gear.

with Rob W M
laurashaw 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd β
Marti999 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Debbie
Marti999 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Debbie
laurence_falconer 02/Jun/13 2nd
CatMc ?/Jun/13 2nd
with clams
clams ?/Jun/13 Lead
ChrisUK 18/May/13 AltLd O/S

Easy first pitch, other Chris lead second pitch but backed off the slab and followed Sam and Nick up Sinister to the left. Seconded and followed the route, lovely slab climbing.

Steve954 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Head rush as the crack runs out. Andy lead the first pitch but handed to me for the tricky second.

with Richard, Andy
seanprendiville 12/May/13 2nd

Seconded from tree belay, reached via 1st pitch of Sinister. Out of the crack there follows a scary slab with no hand holds. Topped out via the Direct Route from lunchtime ledge.

with Tessa
Rebs 07/May/13 2nd
Deary65 06/May/13 Lead RP

Bold section

laurence_falconer 04/May/13 Lead

Enjoyed climb much more than previousley. Last pitch has solid but limited gear. Last 10 or so meters very run out.

Hidden 03/May/13 Lead O/S
tfraser09 ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
Mlongman 26/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Davis
tc7118 25/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 AltLd rpt
BenBird 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

As one pitch. Only do this if you're confident in your rope management - the drag on the crux could be awful! Nice climbing, just the right level of excitement

with Emily
Neil Gay 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

With Ben leading first pitch. Found slab at top of pitch 2 quite bold.

simonf 16/Apr/13 2nd
with Mike
localboy 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Interesting slab on second pitch.

with Simon F
James S 01/Apr/13 Solo O/S

top slab reaching the overlap was quite exciting on the solo!

mikeydee135 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S

1 pitch

laurence_falconer 05/Mar/13 Lead
laurashaw 05/Mar/13 2nd
GeorgT ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S
zcsharp 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Cat
steve_gibbs 11/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Eagertom 30/Jan/13 AltLd

Grease stream over the lip of the second pitch made things tricky for Laurence.

laurence_falconer 30/Jan/13 AltLd

Seconded first pitch and lead the second. Second pitch was covered in grease, so veered left of the intended route which meant a very bold and exposed climb up a slab with few positive holds and poor gear.

Hidden 06/Dec/12 2nd RP
AndyMcCoy 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
caroline256 20/Oct/12 2nd
birthers 20/Oct/12 2nd

Slimy, wet, not much fun. Backed off the 2nd pitch not trusting the gear, McCoy just went for it.

riff156 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
RamblingRyan 15/Sep/12 2nd
with Emily, Col
riff156 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ali Cann
Neil Stansbie 03/Aug/12 2nd dnf
with adam parslow
steve-grigg 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
with Chris
jameslam ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
OC24 ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Monk 23/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Tried to do this quickly in a single pitch to get to lunchtime ledge but it started raining hard as I got to the crux! The holds were soaked so I reversed most of the climb but had to lower off above the first slab. Quite a tricky descent! I hadn't put much gear in, so I ended up reverse leading, putting gear in by my feet, then taking the gear out from above me. That slab gets pretty slippery in the wet!

Hidden 13/Jun/12 2nd
wurzelinzummerset 13/Jun/12 Lead

An enjoyable climb. Gear not too bad if you've got some microwires. The short section of blank slab below the break on p2 has got to be 4b at least.

with Mike
HarryB 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Camilla, Al
Hidden 28/May/12 AltLd rpt
JamieAyres 13/May/12 Lead rpt
pheotleyr 11/May/12 Lead O/S

very good 2nd pitch, couldn't really find the 10m runout though

with Jana
CreepingExcellence. 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Stanners 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

spicy and thin! Difficult to know what grade this is. Not Severe is all I know. Great route though, definitely a star at least.

with Andy G
ben.richards 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S

lovely bold slab on second pitch with non-existent hand holds - you've just got to trust your feet!

Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
dbm 19/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Finished last pitch with darkness creeping in.

with Martin Grenfell
Kemics 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

With Martin. In two pitches, really enjoyed the feature groove, the crack and the blank slab. I'd even give it two stars, probably deserves HS.

Sam Mitchell 08/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Ragingpossum 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S

A lesson in trusting the feet on the second pitch.

with Sam Mitchell
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead
ollie_e 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Good fun, split it into two pitches. Slab was bold for Severe...

with Chris
kyle 18/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Done in boots

stafford101 08/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Very runout once the crack on pitch 2 finishes, the moves on the slab felt hard for Severe.

Anthony Dixon 22/Jan/12 AltLd
pffft 11/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Jojo Mills
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
gary.earl ??/2012 Lead
theocelano ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Dec/11 Lead
alexrankine30 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Roscoe
mattorford 06/Nov/11 Lead
mandy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with elf
JamesRich 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Rich
Katherine Ross 26/Oct/11 2nd rpt

It rained a lot while Cam was leading P2. Climbing the slabby bits (most of the route!) was challenging and generally unpleasant. Didn't actually slip off but thought I was going to several times!

with Cameron Smith
rg1976 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with George, squicky
squicky 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with George, rg1976
Becky H 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Katherine Ross 21/Sep/11 2nd
joedoherty 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
djking1983 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
PaulWatson 26/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

Rosy 1 me 2. Very Slabby, and quite exposed for a Severe. Early crux on second pich has that "I'm going to have sore knees if I mess up here" about it.

with Rosy
Gregthebadger 09/Jun/11 Lead
Dave Ing 06/Jun/11 Solo O/S
ruaidh 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Did in one pitch, but the extra rope means the thin moves at the top of the slab are largely unprotected. Good value for money at the grade.

with Abigail
abigail 15/May/11 2nd O/S

It was a good climb, but the bit at the top was a bit hard.

with rory
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd
halfwaythere 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

led pitch 2

Kylie 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Andy lead the first pitch. I lead the second. Getting up out of the scoop was hard, and I had to work on my nerves to get over the smearing, but did it well.

mullermn 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Me p1, Kylie p2.

Jim Tan ?/Mar/11 Solo rpt
kelliroberts3 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
31770 ??/2011 -
minexplorer 25/Sep/10 Lead

easy but still fun due to long run outs.need to be delicate and trust feet

andy dunn 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Fatclimber 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Dan
crossdressingrodney 17/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Wonderful blank slab above the crack, but not 4a and not Severe.

with dylan, Julian
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 05/Jul/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

first multipitch lead! thought we'd do something easy, but was pretty challenging: some smaller nuts would have been handy. thank-god thread in the back of the break at top of bold slab.

with tom bowman
sweenyt 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Elena
mpc 04/Jun/10 2nd dog
ron244 04/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Pete Rigby ?/Jun/10 Solo rpt
TDembrey 25/May/10 Lead rpt
with Jana
gingergeorge 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
TDembrey 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Clay
Clay C 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Todd, Louise
7om 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Pete.ent 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with 7om
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
Aaron Lines ??/2010 -
alexporter ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Led exposed slab second pitch. Enjoyable.

with Rich Batstone
Ed morris 30/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

led crux pitch more like balancy VS.

with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 30/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

awesome second pitch, bit lacking in holds for the grade though

RagingPuffin 13/Sep/09 AltLd
lizzie789 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Seconded first pitch. Lead second pitch (Severe 4a). Good. Gear was a bit sketchy but ok where I needed it to be.

Poco Loco 13/Sep/09 Lead

Actually went further left on the second pitch as I couldn't find and proper gear.

with Dora
mullermn 12/Sep/09 Lead rpt

Rpt to make up for the complete hash I made of pitch 1 last time. Didn't get lost this time, but not sure I climbed in as good style as the first time.

Kylie 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
fragglerock 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led the first rambling pitch trending leftwards up and over a couple of bold overlaps. Justin led the typical run out second pitch up to lunchtime ledge.

with justin
ron244 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mpc 11/Aug/09 2nd
Andy White 05/Aug/09 Lead dnf

No problems with the first pitch but struggled with the groove and slab on the second pitch, no gear, abbed off as it was too dark to continue

Sarah Everitt 05/Aug/09 2nd dnf
Emma-Louise Anderson 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
andrewroberts 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Bit of rain before 2nd pitch messed with my head but was ok. 2nd pitch was a real lesson in learning to trust my feet! Long runout!

EscapeArtist 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Sketchy last section, 5m of polished slope and dirty shoes this does not make a nice section. Leader went 8m on a 20m pitch before gear could be placed!

with Two Pints
JuneBob 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
dave_whale 06/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Scary no holds slab at times. Double pitched, Loved it!

with Floss Morgan
scorpia97 01/Jun/09 Solo
with Caspian
Hidden 01/Jun/09 Solo
rorschach 23/May/09 AltLd
kev_george 23/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Sean King
Kylie 02/May/09 2nd O/S
mullermn 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Second pitch well worth it for the slab moves. While a fall would be quite long it would also be a pretty safe bounce down the slab. Good gear at the break afterwards.

FayeG 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S

WARNING! Do not miss first belay and do this in one pitch as the rope drag when trying to get up the featureless, protectionless slab is hellish. Ended up getting benighted and finishing/abbing in the dark. Started the climb by saying to my more inexperienced partner "We'll just do somethign easy, How about this severe...."

with Sarah Jones
catemuir 29/Apr/09 AltLd

Led 1st pitch in trainers (was a fool and left them in my bag on Lunchtime ledge!), Alex led 2nd pitch

aipattison 29/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Cate led P1(in trainers!) I led P2.

thomasadixon 08/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Wrighty87 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S

I accidnetly missed the first belay point and climbed straight up to just below luchtime ledge.

with Chris Mountford
Monk 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt Hartgrove
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Zoomer 21/Mar/09 AltLd

Jules lead the 2nd pitch, bold but good.

Jules 210681 21/Mar/09 AltLd
PaulWatson 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S

2nd Pitch only, preceded by Sinister

with Tony
maresia 31/Jan/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Tom Heslam ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Rosea
climbingxcat ??/2009 -
with Brian
EmmanuelF 19/Oct/08 -

second pitch is bold indeed

with Simon
Bobby Pearson 27/Sep/08 AltLd
nicksdavies17 27/Sep/08 AltLd
PaulWatson 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Techy Tenious & Bold esp on the second pitch - well led Dan! The first was a doddle by comparison

with Dan
ron244 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Anth Hawkes
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
bewildebeest ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Heppie Curtis
beardy mike 26/Apr/08 Solo rpt
ISavage ?/Apr/08 2nd rpt

Moving Together

Theeni 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S

RMAS with novice

bsavage 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Top slab has very spartan protection but not to steep.

lukehodson 27/Feb/08 Lead rpt
RagingPuffin 26/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Al Franks 26/Feb/08 Solo O/S
rh5980 17/Feb/08 Lead
with Liz Davies
Hidden 11/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 07/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, good fun and no harder than severe.

with Nicolas
CarolineH 05/Oct/07 2nd
with Joe
Hidden 31/Aug/07 Lead
pishmishy 10/Aug/07 2nd dog

Fine up to the last few meters where I lost confidence in my footwork, smearing on the slab.

with Bernard
tonymw 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Long run out towards the end of the 2nd pitch on smears and small holds - very testing! Thankfully not too steep.

with Juile Moore
Jen79 29/May/07 2nd
with Donovan
CarolineH 25/Apr/07 2nd
with Neil
Jon_Warner 10/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Moves up the slab much harder than VD / S - and the start is pretty bold!!

with Mark Glaister
Hidden 03/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/07 2nd O/S
lukehodson 15/Mar/07 Lead O/S
mattf77 ?/Jan/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
MagnusL 11/Nov/06 Lead O/S

The runout on the slab was.. um... character building.

with My mate Paul
ISavage 26/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, very easy climbing although with a bit of a run out at one point. Second pitch feels quite exposed at the top of the crack.

with AndyM
rotsoscooper 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Karen
Hidden 21/Jul/06 Lead
deanster01 18/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Easy first pitch, remeber to protect secound on easy traverse. Secound pitch has long runout that requires good early pro.

with Laurie Neale
Bigedthehead 17/Jun/06 Lead


with Pete Roberts
gareth r 11/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Runout on p2. Delicate climbing on slab, unprotectes for 10m

with Steve
brady 11/Jun/06 AltLd
with Gareth Roberts
Hidden 08/Jun/06 Solo O/S
chiverstom 10/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Mix
dpmUK 15/Mar/06 Lead rpt
with Dunks
phsharpy 02/Mar/06 Solo O/S
with Bethan Davies
Hidden 25/Feb/06 2nd
beardy mike ??/2006 Solo
Marcus ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Tamlyn ??/2006 Lead O/S
KarlH 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Phil Lilley
dpmUK 12/Jul/05 2nd
with Craig Cook
mwh 29/May/05 2nd O/S
Outdoorfun37 10/Apr/05 AltLd
gripped01 ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Jamie Crichton
mol 25/Nov/04 AltLd
with Dave
Hidden 25/May/04 2nd
Fat Tim 09/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Paz ??/2004 Lead O/S
with SB
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Richard Hall ??/2004 Solo

First climbed (lead) with IH, although have soloed often since (2007 onwards).

with Ian Hawkins
Outdoorfun37 15/Aug/03 AltLd
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
gimmer ??/2001 -
BALD EAGLE 26/Jul/00 Lead
with Steve Green
alan moore ??/2000 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
MartinN 06/May/99 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/98 Lead
Mickdenali ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
AndySL 18/Mar/95 Solo O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
leland stamper ??/1990 -
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
leland stamper 09/Sep/85 Solo rpt
JamieAyres ?/Sep/84 Solo rpt

given VD 3c then

duncan ?/Aug/82 Solo O/S
stp 11/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/76 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/75 Lead
alpboy57 ?/Jun/74 -
with Si Pryce
Bolt Phobia 23/Feb/74 AltLd
jon 17/Feb/74 Lead
with Elaine, bob l
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 03/Dec/72 -
with Max
Bolt Phobia 24/Jun/72 -
Hidden ??/1972 Lead
Hidden ??/1968 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
oldmanofmow ??/1958 Lead

Annette Hudson was leading but she split her jeans and refused to continue in front!!

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