UKC

Contributed by Martin Southville Aug/21 - This public ticklist has been seen 986 times

Routes graded Hard-Severe are rare in Avon Gorge but rather pleasingly they are distributed evenly across all sections and thus make for a very expansive tour. With 14 on the Portway side (the road with cars) and 5 on the tow path side (the hard track for bicycles) I (Martin) have made a personal mission to climb them all.

⚠️There is some serious esoterica on this list! Some of these routes have proven incredibly hard to find (Greased Lightening Crack and Drypass were 2 particularly slippery kippers) but the hunt is all part of the adventure for me. Convenience is over-rated.

Notes
- Nightmare (S) becomes an HS when the first pitch is climbed with the variation described in Avon Gorge Guidebook (page 130).
- Dexter is a VS in the Avon Gorge Guidebook which I think is more appropriate given the run-out slab on pitch 2.
- Direct Route is only HS grade when done using the Direct Start variation.
- The Gangway is a HS in Avon Gorge Guidebook (it seems wrongly graded as a Severe on UKC and logbook comments seem to confirm so).

Not included
- Fir Tree Buttress (HS) is not included as many people have warned off doing it, reporting it to be bad climbing and dangerous, relying on ab'ing off a dead bush at the top.
- Vibrator (HS) on Railway Tunnel Walls (Page 315 in book) is permanently restricted and so not included in this list to enable you to achieve 100% complete without breaking the law.

Thanks to Simon P and Dom G for finding some hidden little nuggets in the guidebook and suggesting them. Your truffling pleases the completionist within me.

Pitch 2,Crumble  © deepstar
Pitch 2,Crumble
© deepstar, Aug 2014

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st Dom Goodwin 84% 9 Oct, 2023
2nd Dunthemall 57% 12 Jun, 2017
2nd Hidden 57% 24 Jun, 2022
2nd steve_gibbs 57% 9 Oct, 2023
3rd baldOrangutan 42% 5 May, 2022
3rd Trevers 42% 14 Oct, 2023
4th Darrell Read 36% 15 Jul, 2021
5th phildavies84 31% 9 Jun, 2021
5th alasdaircavaye 31% 26 Oct, 2022
5th rowanbrandreth 31% 8 Aug, 2022

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Repeat lead 38 years after my first ascent.

Sinister
Repeat lead 38 years after my first ascent.
© Sully

Even Jesus needs a helmet

Nightmare
Even Jesus needs a helmet
© Derry

Feeling Bold on Sinister

Sinister
Feeling Bold on Sinister
© Feeling bold

Kerri on Dexter - run out!

Dexter
Kerri on Dexter - run out!
© ianlaw

Ian leading Direct Route

Direct Route
Ian leading Direct Route
© SamanthaRoach12

Chris climbing Arete with Cave

Arête With Cave
Chris climbing Arete with Cave
© Jim blackford

Starting pitch two of Dexter

Dexter
Starting pitch two of Dexter
© MarkH55

Robert Halls on Sinister HS at Avon gorge

Sinister
Robert Halls on Sinister HS at Avon gorge
© alasdaircavaye

Topo of Good Morning You on Morning Slab in Main Area, Avon Gorge

Good Morning You
Topo of Good Morning You on Morning Slab in Main Area, Avon Gorge
© Martin Southville

Remaims of the tree on p3 of Nightmare. A landmark in the guidebooks but now gone. A bolted lower-off has appeared.

Nightmare
Remaims of the tree on p3 of Nightmare. A landmark in the guidebooks but now gone. A bolted lower-off has appeared.
© Martin Southville

belaying on airy third pitch of nightmare

Nightmare
belaying on airy third pitch of nightmare
© halfwaythere

Sully about to launch up the 3rd pitch.

Nightmare
Sully about to launch up the 3rd pitch.
© Sully


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
SEA WALLS
Eros HS 4b 56 15m Avon Gorge (Sea...
Nightmare S 4a ** 1587 50m • 3 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Tigger HS 4a 144 25m Avon Gorge (Sea...
MAIN AREA
Breakfast Ledge Access Route HS 4b 5 20m Avon Gorge (Main...
Sinister HS 4b ** 1255 52m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Good Morning You HS 4b 11 40m Avon Gorge (Main...
Dexter VS 4b * 885 51m • 2 Avon Gorge (Main...
Direct Route S 4a * 1126 27m Avon Gorge (Main...
Central Gully HS 4a * 258 80m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
Greased Lightning Crack HS 4a 8 6m Avon Gorge (Main...
SUSPENSION BRIDGE AREA
Fossible HS 4c * 95 35m • 2 Avon Gorge...
The Gangway S 4a 20 40m Avon Gorge...
Cave Left HS 4a * 41 20m Avon Gorge...
Drypass HS 4b * 7 25m Avon Gorge...
COFFEE HOUSE CRAG (RIGHT NEXT TO TOW PATH)
Black Slab HS 4a 4 12m Leigh Woods
QUARRY 5
Arête With Cave HS 4a * 12 28m Leigh Woods
QUARRY 4
Footloose HS 4a - 20m Leigh Woods
QUARRY 1
Crumble HS 4b * 46 55m • 2 Leigh Woods
Explosion Groove HS 4a - 55m • 2 Leigh Woods
12 stars 5,560 656m 29
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