Routes graded Hard-Severe are rare in Avon Gorge but rather pleasingly they are distributed evenly across all sections and thus make for a very expansive tour. With 14 on the Portway side (the road with cars) and 5 on the tow path side (the hard track for bicycles) I (Martin) have made a personal mission to climb them all.
⚠️There is some serious esoterica on this list! Some of these routes have proven incredibly hard to find (Greased Lightening Crack and Drypass were 2 particularly slippery kippers) but the hunt is all part of the adventure for me. Convenience is over-rated.
- Nightmare (S) becomes an HS when the first pitch is climbed with the variation described in Avon Gorge Guidebook (page 130).
- Dexter is a VS in the Avon Gorge Guidebook which I think is more appropriate given the run-out slab on pitch 2.
- Direct Route is only HS grade when done using the Direct Start variation.
- The Gangway is a HS in Avon Gorge Guidebook (it seems wrongly graded as a Severe on UKC and logbook comments seem to confirm so).
- Fir Tree Buttress (HS) is not included as many people have warned off doing it, reporting it to be bad climbing and dangerous, relying on ab'ing off a dead bush at the top.
- Vibrator (HS) on Railway Tunnel Walls (Page 315 in book) is permanently restricted and so not included in this list to enable you to achieve 100% complete without breaking the law.
Thanks to Simon P and Dom G for finding some hidden little nuggets in the guidebook and suggesting them. Your truffling pleases the completionist within me.
13 users are subscribed to this ticklist, and none have completed the full list. Login as Existing User to subscribe, which will
show the climbs
you've already ticked.