UKC Logbook - 'Jubilee Climb'

84m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amiable climb making the most of this side of the buttress. Pitch 3 is especially fine. Start below the square-cut niche with a holly tree which is the first belay.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the initial slabs more or less direct keeping to rock that is clear of vegetation. This leads to the right-hand of two grooves that lead to the square-cut niche with a holly tree.
2) 15m. Move left out of the niche to a flake and head easily up to the grassy terrace. Then scramble up and right to belay below a steep crack through a bulge/nose.
3) 5b, 15m. Quite traditional and perplexing. From below the steep crack, go up right round the side of the wall to some spikes. Eventually move back left onto the front of the steep wall. Gain the crack, which is followed to a good spike belay.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the crack up a slightly vegetated slab - optional belay to the right at the prominent break. From here follow a more technical left-rising line up the slab to reach a scoop near the centre of the slab below a crack. Continue over a small overlap then up the crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A good climb to the right of Hiawatha.
1. 30mts 4b. Climb easy slabs, and then tricky twin heather grooves to a holly in a niche.
2. 9mts. Go left to a flake and up to the Great Terrace.
3. 15mts 5b. The crux pitch. Climb a crack at the right end of a little wall. move right around a corner and up spikes until it is possible to move back left onto the wall then up a crack to a spike belay.
4. 9mts 4a. up a crack in the mossy slab to a large belay.
5. 21mts 5a. Ascend left along a rising traverse to a scoop. back to the crack above a small overhang a finish in a fine exposed position.

C J Mortlock, P M Hutchinson 23/Apr/1959.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Quality , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Steve Long	17 Aug	Show βeta βeta: War Drum to start: E1 and 3 star for that version of this route. Both the pitches above the Terrace are excellent. I would say that overall it's comparable with Superdirect in difficulty. For the slab pitch I placed a wire in the finger slot and then climbed straight up, with a high step to start and a long reach to the break at the overlap - probably 5b that way but very aesthetic!
Show beta βeta: War Drum to start: E1 and 3 star for that version of this route. Both the pitches above the Terrace are excellent. I would say that overall it's comparable with Superdirect in difficulty. For the slab pitch I placed a wire in the finger slot and then climbed straight up, with a high step to start and a long reach to the break at the overlap - probably 5b that way but very aesthetic!
geoff b	30 Jul, 2024	Show βeta βeta: There is an abseil station (blue rope) in situ above the left side of Jammed Boulder Gully (facing the cliff). A 30m ab will get you to the ledge & 2nd abseil station. A 50m ab will get you to the bottom from there.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is an abseil station (blue rope) in situ above the left side of Jammed Boulder Gully (facing the cliff). A 30m ab will get you to the ledge & 2nd abseil station. A 50m ab will get you to the bottom from there.
DubyaJamesDubya	11 Sep, 2023	Show βeta βeta: The lengths quoted for pitches 2 and 3 are wrong on here and in the CC guide. Both pitches were 30m. Pitch 2 is at least 4b without pro for the toughest moves. Fantastic route with 2 pitches that would be worth 3 stars in there own right.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The lengths quoted for pitches 2 and 3 are wrong on here and in the CC guide. Both pitches were 30m. Pitch 2 is at least 4b without pro for the toughest moves. Fantastic route with 2 pitches that would be worth 3 stars in there own right.
soph	22 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Great route. Deserves more traffic. For last pitch climb up and place a couple of runners before following line of foot holds left until it is possible to reach jugs above which lead up and right into crack system. Climbed in 3 pitches. Linking pitches 1&2 made a 50m pitch. Description above for pitch 2 as 9m is wrong more like 20m 4c.
Show beta βeta: Great route. Deserves more traffic. For last pitch climb up and place a couple of runners before following line of foot holds left until it is possible to reach jugs above which lead up and right into crack system. Climbed in 3 pitches. Linking pitches 1&2 made a 50m pitch. Description above for pitch 2 as 9m is wrong more like 20m 4c.