Rockfax Description
Interesting moves throughout. Start as for The Split.
1) 5a, 13m. The Split pitch 1.
2) 5a, 12m. Gain the horizontal break and traverse left to a ledge. Head back right to a groove and follow it to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the first pitch as per "The Split" - VS 5a.
Traverse left and mount the obvious shelf. Step up and place good gear here and make a couple of difficult moves right until established in the crack. Climb the crack to the top.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023 , Wye Valley Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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el_tiburon_malo | 1 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Easily linked as one pitch with a 40m rope; liberally extend protection. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Easily linked as one pitch with a 40m rope; liberally extend protection. |
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PaulJepson | 3 Dec, 2021 |
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βeta: If it's close to your limit then not a bad idea to do in 2 pitches. The gear on p2 crux is bomber but with a load of rope out you need a decent belayer to keep you off the ledge. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If it's close to your limit then not a bad idea to do in 2 pitches. The gear on p2 crux is bomber but with a load of rope out you need a decent belayer to keep you off the ledge. |
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springfall2008 | 1 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: On the second pitch, after mounting the ledge you need to head up and right, there's a small foothold you need to get up to, foot swap and then bridge out right to the crack. | ||
Show beta
βeta: On the second pitch, after mounting the ledge you need to head up and right, there's a small foothold you need to get up to, foot swap and then bridge out right to the crack. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)