Rockfax Description
Two decent corner pitches. Start on a raised section of ground under a red-stained wall below an overhang.
1) 5a, 24m. Head up poor/dirty rock to the overhang and move right to pass it and enter a corner. Follow the corner all the way to the midway ledge. Belay left of the corner at a thread.
2) 5a, 24m. Move right to the corner in the upper wall and follow a detached-looking pillar to a ledge. Continue up the crack above and finish up the earth slope with care. © Rockfax
G Pemberton 19/Aug/1967.
Ticklists
Bristol Crack School , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| andrewburtenshaw | 9 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a loose block moving out sideways from under the roof, which is integral to the move. Block will break off if stood on, so we had to figure out an alternative sequence that avoids the loose hold. I think that move is significantly harder than the crux on "Swatter" if you don't have the option to step on the block, so I'd say that move is now 5b | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There's a loose block moving out sideways from under the roof, which is integral to the move. Block will break off if stood on, so we had to figure out an alternative sequence that avoids the loose hold. I think that move is significantly harder than the crux on "Swatter" if you don't have the option to step on the block, so I'd say that move is now 5b |
||||
| Mattress | 27 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top of this route, climbing slippery grass and mud, would be deadly in the wet. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The top of this route, climbing slippery grass and mud, would be deadly in the wet. |
||||
| luke43 | 28 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: knocked off a large block at the start...route is largely unchanged narrow pillar looks detached ! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: knocked off a large block at the start...route is largely unchanged narrow pillar looks detached ! |
||||
| Mbowell | 18 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Belay described in the guide is lost to bramble but nut belay possible under start of p2 although it is directly under the narrow pillar and not entirely sure how/if this is attached to the crag! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Belay described in the guide is lost to bramble but nut belay possible under start of p2 although it is directly under the narrow pillar and not entirely sure how/if this is attached to the crag! |
||||
| BStar | 23 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The thin pillar on P2 flexed a lot when I placed a cam behind it... I promptly took said cam out, quite a lot of rock there that will one day come down | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The thin pillar on P2 flexed a lot when I placed a cam behind it... I promptly took said cam out, quite a lot of rock there that will one day come down |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Laughing Cavaliers
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)