Rockfax Description
An intimidating gully wall climb that needs dry conditions and care with the rock on its two upper pitches. Start in Great Gully at a large boulder/pinnacle.
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle then make a committing pull up left to a corner and ledge. Do not be tempted to go left before standing on the pinnacle.
2) 5a, 9m. Take the smooth corner to a ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 10m. Move out right and up a difficult wall and corner (next to a dog-leg crack) to a stance.
4) 4b, 20m. Work up right then left past large blocks to a stance and belay under a big corner/groove.
5) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove and corner to below an overhang, then take a crack out leftwards to finish. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Les Brown Lake District routes , A Lakeland E2 Odyssey , Lakes Extreme Rock
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ben pritchard | 1 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Grubby choss. Very unworthwhile. No redeeming pitches apart from possibly pitch 2 but that is about 5m long | βeta? | |
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βeta: Grubby choss. Very unworthwhile. No redeeming pitches apart from possibly pitch 2 but that is about 5m long |
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Lankcroft | 19 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Loose rock really wasn't that much of a problem for us, and for me wouldn't be a reason not to do this route. That said we did get it dry after 2 days of sun. P4 is basically the only loose slightly loose bit, but it's really not that bad. If you can climb the E2 on pitches 1, 2 & 3 you will have absolutely no trouble. | ||
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βeta: Loose rock really wasn't that much of a problem for us, and for me wouldn't be a reason not to do this route. That said we did get it dry after 2 days of sun. P4 is basically the only loose slightly loose bit, but it's really not that bad. If you can climb the E2 on pitches 1, 2 & 3 you will have absolutely no trouble. |
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Tony Marr | 1 Jan, 1970 |
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βeta: I led the first two pitches with Ken. Bill was hot on our heels until his second failed to follow! We joined forces with Bill leading through to the top. Really enjoyed the climbing and non-stop banter, good memories. We believe this was the 5th ascent! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I led the first two pitches with Ken. Bill was hot on our heels until his second failed to follow! We joined forces with Bill leading through to the top. Really enjoyed the climbing and non-stop banter, good memories. We believe this was the 5th ascent! |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Quayfoot Buttress)