35m. From the cave, pull right over the overhang and step up to the base of a small crack (alternatively, traverse from Diamond Solitaire - 5a). Climb the crack until it's possible to step right into another crack. Continue up this and the headwall above on good holds.

S Whalley, G Gibson 23/Jul/1984

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Lundy, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Oscar Popels 23/Sep Lead O/S

A superb line. I went up the thin flakes just right of the crack. It sounded like this was the line but it's a little hard to tell. Excellent climbing though. I'll remember this one for a while!

Rob Morgan 23/Sep 2nd

Well led by Oscar, great route to do.

with Oscar AMC
mark4344 23/Sep Lead O/S

Came in from left,at5a.superb moves on top slab and safe throughout.

with Sue
badgerjockey 23/Sep Lead O/S

Stunning location. What a feature. Tricky start, tricky route finding! Left crack ate a 0.5 cam. Getting used to insane grip from granite.

with Rich
Kevin Cass 18/Sep 2nd O/S
with Nevil
Hidden 18/Sep Lead
Dave Rumney 08/Sep 2nd
with Bernhard
Graeme Hammond 08/Sep 2nd rpt

Beautiful in the evening sunshine, last proper climb of the holiday again

with Jack
FDixon 07/Sep 2nd O/S

Led by Gareth W.

Tommy yorke 01/Sep Lead O/S

Fantastic route great positions !!

with Chris Stenning
gjd 30/Aug Lead O/S
with Pete Sterling
Pippa 27/Aug 2nd β
Hidden 27/Aug Lead O/S
Bob Peters 27/Aug 2nd
afrosam 27/Aug 2nd
with RB1
barrowclough 24/Aug 2nd O/S
lundyman 02/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/16 2nd
shaunhumphreys 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S

class! windy and slowwww

youwillfindjimbo 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Steve
Deako 08/Sep/16 2nd
Fatclimber 08/Sep/16 2nd O/S
benkelsey 08/Sep/16 2nd rpt

45mph winds

James Oswald 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S

After getting the fear on the start of the cullinan.

jon22 06/Sep/16 Lead
with Dave Holland
Duncan Campbell 06/Sep/16 2nd
petecallaghan 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Fabulous route. I recommend an abseil approach though, the descent can be somewhat hazardous. The start and the exit from the recess onto the slab contrasts nicely with the thin delicate climbing up the slab. Great with the tide chasing you up the rock (I had to shift the belay up a few feet), and a fab first route for the trip

with Scott
Borden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Robb Bert 29/Aug/16 AltLd
with Steve George
paul79 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Puma 27/Aug/16 2nd

Rob's lead and the last climb of the vacation. Difficulties all lower down, didn't go though the overlap at the start.

lithos 27/Aug/16 Lead

5a traverse in on wet holds, tricky at start then eases up into wonderful easy slab climbing

with Puma
pebbles 25/Aug/16 Lead O/S

wet at bottom of pitch, ideally needs sun on it for an hour or so first. sketchy gear at bottom.

with dave d
Hidden 24/Aug/16 2nd
richardbyrom 16/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
NatCheeseman 16/Aug/16 2nd
with tobra
Keendan 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Really cool route. Quite a bold move round the overhang.

with Jim Jarvis
justaddpowder ?/Aug/16 AltLd
with tasp05
Hidden ?/Aug/16 -
tasp05 ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
j.buckley87 28/Jul/16 2nd O/S
southern_smit ?/Jul/16 Lead

good solid route, interesting belay cove at the start

Hidden ??/2016 -
UnkArl 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Neil McA 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Stan
LRob ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Bob Peters 27/Aug/15 Lead
with tp45597
evhall 25/Aug/15 Lead O/S

fantastic route - bottom was a bit wet and the sea was running so opted for the 5a start...

with Tim Bray
kennythescot 17/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Kaiser999 ?/Aug/15 2nd
with Adam Richardson
mariannekhoo 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

It's possible to access the recess under the slab at high tide, with a bit of careful down-climbing and traversing.

with Monica Garrido
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
natalio 09/Sep/14 2nd O/S

James led as a single pitch. Nice line. Hard bouldery first move. Then eases up.

with James H
alastairbegley 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pimpy 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

did 5a alternate start, I think

with clare muir
James Oswald ?/Sep/14 2nd

Cool climbing.

Tom Brierley Gore ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Mr Powly ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Rozzy
AndyL 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
burto 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with hertha
ferdia 30/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Andy Moles 30/Aug/14 2nd
with Ferdia
guy757 21/Aug/14 -
guy757 19/Aug/14 -
Hidden 16/Aug/14 -
RFWilkie 14/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Fab route in an amazing location, loads of gear and very pleasant moves.

with James
hotfeet 12/Aug/14 2nd
Anna Maykova 12/Aug/14 2nd
with Alan, Ian
freemanTom 12/Aug/14 Lead

Had a long wait for it. Great though

with David Eccles, Curly Rich
Ian MK 12/Aug/14 Lead
with Alan
gonzo_ls9 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with d
wrapped in bacon 11/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Jon, Daryl
Dave Musgrove 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A bit disappointed after all the hype. Nice climbing but probably only one move low down that merits anything more than 4c.

with Graham Exley
Alex the Alex 02/Aug/14 2nd

Pretty thin at the bottom, and doesnt dry quickly either. The approach down the buttress was good fun and possible at high tide. Good lead by Ed.

with Ed
Stroppy 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing line! A few moves at the bottom of the crack seemed hard (harder than Asafoetida) with only a couple of runners to the side, but quickly eases.

Nick Russell 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Pretty sure I did the start as per description. A bit of a tricky move low down then it just keeps getting easier up the slab. Fantastic climbing and position.

with Emily
Gavdee1 11/Sep/13 2nd
with Jeremy Watson, Tony Johnson
tonevert 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with jeremy, Gavin
Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead rpt
khalidq 09/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 07/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Got lost in the wrong crack after the start!

with Nancy
cem 06/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Vaughan Hewett
arandall 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really nice line, shame that alot of it is shared with diamond solitare.

Wendy Watthews ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/13 2nd dog
dsgarner 30/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Justin Shiels 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris
ChrisHarris1981 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Duncan Turner ?/Aug/13 Lead
masa-alpin 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I traversed to the main crack via a 5a high-traverse line (a couple of metres above the bottom). Great route.

with Ingrid C
gowla 27/Sep/12 2nd
with Alex Burns
Hidden 27/Sep/12 2nd
Max Streeton 22/Sep/12 Lead
Julian Prieto 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Misha 11/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Nicely varied, the overhang was possibly the crux, followed by enjoyable padding up the crack. Didn't think any of it was 5b tho.

with Rob T, Ed
eduardo 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Stuck a piece of gear in the corner at the start of the slightly damp slab as it seemed very run out (above a horrible landing), straightforward otherwise, really nice climbing.

with Misha
Kevster 10/Sep/12 2nd
with Will T
Hidden 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with steve read
rd20 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

(cave start still wet/slimey)

with Fiona
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead
Anthony Dixon 07/Sep/12 Lead
with Alan
Martin Cooper 07/Sep/12 2nd

V good

with Nick
Si ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Alan Dixon ?/Sep/12 -
Fiona McFarlane ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Robert Dufton
Fiona McFarlane ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt

5a start...

with Loic menzies
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Martin Cooper
Tala A 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 23/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Speed ascent!

Graeme Hammond 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Speed accent on the way to catch the ferry probably enhanced the experience, last climb of the holiday :)

with Jim
Jim Slater 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S

5a start.

Hidden 12/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
oliverk 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Dan
Hidden 06/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Dan Lane 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Did i go the right way, or didn't i go the right way? who cares, i enjoyed it!

with Andy Turner
rurp 07/Jun/12 TR

shunt

Ben Wolstenholme 07/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd
cymjt ??/2012 -
greedo ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Simon Chandler
Maxim2023 ?/Oct/11 2nd
with monty attwood
monsteratt 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S

felt quite nervous about this one - looks quite intimidating from the bottom. Only one slightly tricky move low down though. Felt more relaxed after that. Good climbing plenty of gear - amazing crag.

with Max Edwards
John Brayshaw 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S

From Diamond Solitaire

with Erica
erica 16/Sep/11 2nd

With the 5a start

with John
Hidden 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/11 Lead
Kevster 28/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Liam FLeming 24/Aug/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
Rachel S 22/Aug/11 2nd
with Graham
Hidden 16/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice route. Felt about VS 5a to me, but might have built up some extra fitness after a few days' climbing.

with Gary Lewin
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/11 -
with Gavin Moy
julesmckim 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Baffled by guidebook description and first 10 metres of this route. Does it really go over the overhang as for Cullinan???

tev 26/Sep/10 2nd
with DAJ
victim of mathematics 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Via 5a start as the original one was wet. Nice climbing on a good line.

with Claire
Leelogs 11/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S

flared and greasy at the start but fantastic moves after that. good introduction to lundy!

Alex T (RAFMA) ?/Sep/10 -
with Rimon
Kevster ?/Sep/10 Lead
Helen Gibson 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
eel 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
3 Names 10/Aug/10 Lead
irish paul 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 24/May/10 2nd
gareth r 05/Oct/09 2nd
with John Jones
Hidden 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
dicky79 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Nicholson
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
mick1jones 11/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Opted for 5a start. Dropped gear but retrieved it!

Rich A-Wilkes 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great climbing in a superb position. Definitely worth doing the 5b start, which is easy for the grade, with solid gear, and makes for a dramatic emergence onto the slab.

with Alex
Mark Warnett ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

1st Lundy route

khawk 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with DT
datoon 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with K
crossdressingrodney 14/Aug/09 2nd O/S

... but took the start of Diamond Solitaire through the cave to escape from sea-level. Very slippery indeed.

with dpmUK
dpmUK 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Did the 4c start as the 5b looked scary being somewhat damp

Hidden 07/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 Lead
Daniel Wicks 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Milo
Somerset swede basher 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with George Taylor
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd
The Mountain Goat 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Frostie ?/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Andy Owen
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Stew Boyce
lukea 30/Jun/09 Lead
with Al
Adam Booth 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Bob M 17/Sep/08 Lead
with Jill Stevens
chris wyatt 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

An interesting baptism into lundy west coast climbing. Moved in from left to avoid total dunking

Jim Walton ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Owen
pete johnson ?/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
AJ007 31/Aug/08 Lead
with Ian
dan gibson 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
James B 28/Aug/08 Lead
with Nigel
Bristoldave 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with douglas
Barry D 19/Aug/08 AltLd
with Chris M
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Shaw Brown 09/May/08 Lead
with Jeb
Coel Hellier 02/May/08 Lead
Tim Steward 15/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Helen Alderson
John Kettle ??/2008 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Richard Fox 11/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Rob Dorman
Steve Crowe 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with KM
Guy ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with C Mawson
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
jak.kelly 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Gareth Jones, Dave Lacey
Chad123 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Nice route, but a bit unbalanced with all the hard moves in the first 10m.

with Ben and Jan
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Sep/06 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 05/Sep/06 AltLd
with Richard Ball
Hidden 03/Sep/06 Lead O/S
HughM ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
davebrox ?/Sep/06 -
with Ann Fisher
Marq 25/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with David (Exeter Uni)
Chris the Tall 21/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Great route with the crux a couple of moves later than I expected

with Nick & Kate
Katex 21/Aug/06 2nd
with Chris Moor, Nick Smith
Hidden 21/Aug/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
feilx ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 10/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Mike Hall 06/Sep/05 -
with Ken T
givemetea 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Hazel and Susie Norris
Bella ?/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Lucy Ham
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with Clare
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd O/S
LC ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 21/Sep/03 AltLd
Hidden 28/Aug/03 Lead O/S
ferdia 19/Oct/02 2nd
with Nia Wilcox, Andrew Wielochowski
cem 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Steven Martin
Paul Clarke ??/2001 AltLd
with Mike Lynch
Hidden 11/Sep/00 2nd O/S
timmy-ts ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -

Well named; incredible rock quality. Hard move stepping right between the cracks.

Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Derek Furze ?/Aug/99 -
Hidden 11/Sep/98 2nd
Paul-Michael 04/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Steve Newman
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/98 Lead
pauldrew ?/Sep/97 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 23/Aug/97 Lead
with Dave Marsh
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
colin milton 04/Sep/96 2nd
with eric milton
snowcat 28/Aug/96 2nd
with Chris Schiller
Pete Nugent 17/Aug/96 Lead
Simon cook ?/Aug/96 -
lost.arrow ?/Aug/96 -
Hidden 14/Aug/95 Lead
Martin Bennett 29/Aug/93 -
with Dave Cundy
RichardMc 10/Sep/92 AltLd
with John Evans
Nick Biven 04/Sep/92 Lead
mattnuttall ?/Sep/92 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
mattnuttall 18/Sep/91 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 04/Sep/91 2nd β
garywalker147 ?/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
with Mob
eroica64 ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Liked it so much repeated it in Sep '95

with Denis Crampton
Stoney Boy 16/Aug/90 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 28/May/90 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Sean Kelly ?/Aug/89 Lead

Never 5b!

with Alan Payne
BigHairyIan 28/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Alan Lilley (Thug)
Hidden 19/Sep/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/Sep/88 Lead
with john catt
RichardMc 14/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila, Tess Poole
Tom V ?/Aug/86 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set