UKC

Rockfax Description
A more logical start to the Little Micheluzzi that doesn't suffer from seepage as with the original.
Start in a large grassy corner midway between the normal start and the large gully on the right.
1) IV-, 25m. Climb a grassy chimney ramp easily to a good stance on a little pillar.
2) IV-, 25m. Continue up a ramp trending left, then climb direct up a vegetated chimney-crack to a grassy ledge.
3) IV, 45m. Move left for a couple of steps, then at a peg follow obvious holds right. At a vegetated clearing, move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4-8) As for pitches 4 to 8 of Little Micheluzzi. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Arthur Bramwell 2 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We bivied the night near the logging site below with 8 others. So woke up to the face in the morning. An epic final route of the dolomites. Took great satisfaction in overtaking an American pair on the crux pitch after they headed the wrong way. Lovely top out too a very surprised marmot as we were the first up it that day. Make sure to traverse left along the shelf towards the sell towers for as long as possible, the descent isn\'t really down a gull like Rockfax says. Don\'t go down the first main gulley this is not the descent instead carry on around it follow a wire through a tunnel and up slightly until the descent is obvious.
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βeta: We bivied the night near the logging site below with 8 others. So woke up to the face in the morning. An epic final route of the dolomites. Took great satisfaction in overtaking an American pair on the crux pitch after they headed the wrong way. Lovely top out too a very surprised marmot as we were the first up it that day. Make sure to traverse left along the shelf towards the sell towers for as long as possible, the descent isn't really down a gull like Rockfax says. Don't go down the first main gulley this is not the descent instead carry on around it follow a wire through a tunnel and up slightly until the descent is obvious.
malcolm.harris 12 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lose a star for loose scrambly middle pitch & loose rock and contrived line on penultimate pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lose a star for loose scrambly middle pitch & loose rock and contrived line on penultimate pitch
itmepeterweiss 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: first climb of the trip, first pitches more like a scramble, better, nicer climbing in second half. For the descent do not attempt to lower in the big canyon of doom. Follow the Chamois path, pass the bit with steel cables and then go on again. Pleasant descent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first climb of the trip, first pitches more like a scramble, better, nicer climbing in second half. For the descent do not attempt to lower in the big canyon of doom. Follow the Chamois path, pass the bit with steel cables and then go on again. Pleasant descent
Alpenglow 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Route finding on the last pitch was challenging. I went left from the belay and up some steep juggy chimney cracks for about 5-10m. Then took a ramp line up right and then up a wall to a mini cave with 2 pitons in. Then stepped left and pulled over a bulge and went up another steep gully to the right. The cave as described as the final belay is then on the left - the last pitch was longer than described in the guidebook. For the descent, I've seen a lot of comments where people had a nightmare 10 pitch abseil down a gully. The proper descent traverses the terrace all the way left ensuring you pass a long and very exposed section protected by a wire. You almost reach the area below the 2nd Sella tower.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route finding on the last pitch was challenging. I went left from the belay and up some steep juggy chimney cracks for about 5-10m. Then took a ramp line up right and then up a wall to a mini cave with 2 pitons in. Then stepped left and pulled over a bulge and went up another steep gully to the right. The cave as described as the final belay is then on the left - the last pitch was longer than described in the guidebook. For the descent, I've seen a lot of comments where people had a nightmare 10 pitch abseil down a gully. The proper descent traverses the terrace all the way left ensuring you pass a long and very exposed section protected by a wire. You almost reach the area below the 2nd Sella tower.

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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Comici/Northwest Corner

Grade: V- ***
(Punta Col de Varda)

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