Varied climbing in corners and cracks and an airy exposed traverse characterise this route. Sadly, the first ascensionists are unknown and unable to take credit for it.
Continue past the distinctive little tower of the Locomotiva and follow the southwest face of the 1st Tower round to reach two pillars. Begin by the left pillar, below a corner just left of the pillar's left arete.
1) VI-, 35m. Move left to the base of the corner and climb this to a good stance on the left.
2) IV+, 25m. Move up for a couple of metres then make a rising traverse right to reach the arete. Climb this then move left to a stance on a ledge.
3) IV+, 25m. Move up and left to reach a ledge. Follow this easily left then ascend a grassy ramp to a stance below a corner.
4) IV, 40m. Climb the corner and the continuation chimney, then move left and climb vertical rock direct to a ledge.
5) IV-, 10m. Climb a yellow face direct to reach a large ledge (this can be followed left to join Via Steger). Follow this left for a couple of metres then move up to a stance in a niche.
6) V+, 30m. Climb the right side of the niche then follow a crack left. At a thread, follow a black slab back right towards the large yellow overhangs, to a stance below the left edge of these.
7) VI+, 15m. Make a rising traverse right, following the edge of the roof. Pull through this then move right to a bolted stance.
8) V-, 50m. Climb direct, keeping right of two niches and overcoming a bulge, then level with an overhang on the right, trend left and belay on a peg.
9) Scramble up easy ground to the summit. © Rockfax
|User||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|malone||24 Jul, 2017||AltLd||
|Appleby||24 Jul, 2017||AltLd||
|etrillaud||6 Aug, 2016||AltLd O/S||lead 2,4,6,8 pitches.|
|lead 2,4,6,8 pitches.|
|Stickle Tarn||21 Jul, 2016||Lead O/S||A0 on the crux pitch, maybe I was a little too low. This pitch is really well protected with new pegs. Class route.|
|A0 on the crux pitch, maybe I was a little too low. This pitch is really well protected with new pegs. Class route.|
|Flavio||18 Jul, 2016||AltLd O/S||
|Steve Lenartowicz||1 Sep, 2015||Lead dnf||Climbed 1st pitch (VI-) thinking we were on Via Steger, then abbed off
|Climbed 1st pitch (VI-) thinking we were on Via Steger, then abbed off|
|rockafunked||?Aug, 2015||Lead dog||Started on this climb due to route-finding error. First pitch sustained and protected by a single in-situ peg. Bailed at the end of the pitch.|
|Started on this climb due to route-finding error. First pitch sustained and protected by a single in-situ peg. Bailed at the end of the pitch.|