Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Another crazy piece of climbing, threading its way through the cave sharing a section of Alien World. Traverse into the back of the cave, move left onto the wall, then traverse left into a groove. Move out and leftwards to cross a pillar feature, then take the groove up and leftwards. Swing blindly up and rightwards into space (crux) to eventually arrive at a rest in the upper cave niche (S1/2 so far). Climb directly outwards along the downward-pointing roof, to reach a huge thread on the lip (a possible double leg-bar no-hands rest), then pull round the exposed lip on good but hidden holds. From here, a step right into a groove takes you to a finish up the easy wide crack-line. © Rockfax
FSA. Julian Lines 03/Sep/2005.
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Logged Ascents
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Reef Walker
Grade: 7a ***
(Lydstep Cavern Bay)