Rockfax Description
A worthwhile series of variation pitches on the classic Central Rib Route I. Top of the grade and not one for an inexperienced VS leader. Start in the little corner.
1) 4c, 22m. Climb the surprisingly tricky corner to its end and a peg. Transfer to a slabby rib on the right and follow it to another peg below a steep wall. Pull up the wall right of the arete to a thin crack and runner and then reach good holds on a flat block up left before pulling up to less steep ground and a shattered hole. Move up right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 21m. Climb the arete on the left past a poor peg to a good ledge. Now move up and left along a ledge to a small corner. Climb the corner and blocks to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.
3) 4c, 10m. The line of thin cracks and tiny orange groove in the final headwall are thin to start but ease at mid-height. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace.

Start around 1 metre right of Rib Route I. Follows the rib rather than the crack, but difficult route finding as it's easy to stray onto Route I or III (check the guide book).

The route tops out onto Offa-Dykes path, so descend via Easy Way Down or walk around to Woodcroft Quarry.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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