Restricted Access
The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
An intriguing big roof loop with great moves. Swing leftwards over a small roof and saunter leftwards across a wall to follow Lunacy Booth halfway through the roof. Swing out right on the lip to holds then launch powerfully right again to a distant hold and mantel up into a scoop. Hard for the grade, could be 7c? © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An intriguing big roof loop with great moves. Start at the right side of the Lunacy Booth cave. Swing leftwards over a small roof and saunter leftwards across a scooped wall to follow Lunacy Booth halfway through the roof. Swing out right on the lip to holds then launch powerfully right again to a distant hold and mantel up into the scoop. Hard for the grade, could be 7c?
FA. Pete Oxley 30/May/2014.
Ticklists
Winspit Sport Climbs , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes
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Logged Ascents
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Coralized
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Cheyne Cliff)