Rockfax Description
The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.
1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.
2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fabulous climb with scary "out there" positions. Non-tidal too, so you have no excuses. The pegs are rotten but the gear is adequate gear but it's hard to place. Probably just worth E3 even as 2 pitches. Seconds need to be as competent as the leader for this one. Take your prusiks!

Pat Littlejohn & Dave Roberts 04/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Brian H 06/Aug Lead O/S

Sensational positions but never desperate and gear is reasonable - although the ropes unavoidably run across one or two fairly sharp edges. Definitely best done in two pitches.

with Alice
Pippa 06/Aug AltLd O/S
with Maithridara
alice fuller ?/Aug 2nd rpt

Great day.. to be on a classic Pat Littlejohn route, when he was next door climbing Moonraker on 50th anniversary of 1st ascent. Not one to fall off on.. the thought of which kept me over gripping:)

msoldn 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

More amenable than expected

with Mark
Avon Man 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches. E2, 5b.

with msoldn
alice fuller 25/Sep/14 2nd O/S

amazing route.good climbing.

kingholmesy ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Colin
R2B 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch. Epic pumpy traverse with great holds and lots of cam placements.

with John Stuart
Hidden ??/2012 -
nick arding 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Philippa Arding
Philippa Arding 16/Oct/11 2nd
with nick arding
Hidden 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
robbie Warke 16/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Lovely climb perfect day

andy gittins ??/1998 AltLd
with Mark Carnall
FATBOYFAT ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
clark alston ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S

If you do it in one pitch you need to exxxxxtend those runners.

with Nick White
ukb & bmc shark 12/Sep/86 Lead
with Minky
Hidden 07/Sep/86 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
stp ??/1983 -
Steve Bell ?/Sep/79 Lead
with Jon Grubb
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 7
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set