60m, 2 pitches. A very fine adventure with a bold first pitch and magnificent exposure on the second pitch. Cleaned with some upgraded in-situ gear in 2015 but great care should still be taken with the rock. Take lots of long slings and larger cams/hexes for pitch 2. Start behind the large tree.
1 33m 5a Follow a thin crack to a couple of pod-like pockets then bear right to a borehole (possible inverted nut/tricam/hand placed peg). Climb up to the next borehole (hand placed peg etc). Move up into the groove on the right and climb past a jammed nut to a large thread (replaced 2015). Continue for 4m to twin pegs (couldn't be replaced but tied off with maillon for potential back-rope to protect second).Traverse 7m right (bomber small black tri-cam) over yellow ledges and tip-toe past the loose blocks to a peg and cam placement. Climb up to a ledge below a pink wall. Peg (replaced 2015) and nut belay.
2 27m 5a Traverse left and climb the wide crack, exiting right to ledges. Move up to a good hold then rightwards to the final corner and climb to the top. Belay on the fence 20m back or on chains at the top of the grassy ramp 10m back.

Pat Littlejohn and John Hammond (VL) 19/Apr/1970

Hidden 16/Oct/15 Lead β
petecallaghan 07/Nov/10 Lead dnf

Carl fell off and fractured his arm at the top of the first pitch, so we did not finish, but abseiled off the stance. The first pitch has v little natural protection and I relied heavily on the in-situ protectuib. The in-situ thread is jammed with old slings (and a corroded, unusable, screw gate) that need to be cut, removed and replaced. At least two of the rusty pegs are unsafe because they carry jammed, corroded screw gates that need to be cut off. One of the pegs cannot take a crab directly because the eye is too close to the rock, so I threaded it with a wire. One of the pegs with a jammed screw gate was after the traverse. Fortunately this has the best natural protection on the first pitch, in which I stuffed a couple of wires (3+4) (and on which Carl subsequently fell). The peg itself I used as a spike with a sling because the in-situ screw gate is corroded with the collar half done, so it's not properly shut, can't safely be used, and it prevents anything else using the peg eye. I could place no protection for the second on the first 5m or so of the top rightwards traverse to the stance, which is where Carl fell when his hold came off. He hit a bulge with a big swing, head first, then bounced onto his arm. Anyone else considering this route should probably take a knife, replacement sling and a bolt cutter.

with Carl Hubbard
Hidden 19/Aug/09 -
porridgefan 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Very green and lose. Niall lead 1st pitch with horrible gear and belay, I lead the second with not much better...slightly run out

with Niall Francis
Hidden 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/1998 Lead


ukb & bmc shark 12/Sep/86 AltLd
with Minky
TonyF 01/May/84 Lead O/S
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