64m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some alpine-esque blocks to gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge gain a right trending ramp-line (steep at first) and continue to a good tree belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep blocky section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left.
4) 4c, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree.
5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © Rockfax

H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955

Ticklists: Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, The V.S.+ Ticklist.

Hidden 07/Aug 2nd
Col Kingshott 14/Jul Lead O/S

Not 5b (as some say) but top end 5a on the traverse pitch, second pitch is also 5a (in my opinion). Quality and varied climbing.

foostu4 09/Jul AltLd rpt
Katie S 09/Jul AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4

with Stu p
Mike Todd 08/Jul AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch and then 3rd and 4th pitch together. Brilliantly varied route.

with Andy Bunnage
Hidden 21/Jun -
Ows ?/Jun AltLd O/S
hotfeet 06/May AltLd

I led pitches 2, 4 & 5.

James Worthington 06/May AltLd

Second and fourth pitch. Got carried away climbing the groove, started to feel bold and hard for 4c, a sure sign you're going the wrong way! Made it exciting for Rob to retrieve the gear.

with Rob
dr_botnik 06/May AltLd O/S

Did the traverse pitch and the offwidth, but the crux was probably down climbing the e1 after rescuing gear haha no only joking it was definitely that traverse

with James
Anti-faff 05/May 2nd

Ace route, the finger traverse is a technical delight. Two star route all day long.

with Jas Wood
rachelpearce01 20/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr AltLd
h3l3n283 15/Apr -
with Steph Heeley, Max Railling
stephheeley 15/Apr 2nd

only p1 and p2 then bailed

Hidden 13/Apr AltLd
steven_daniels99 13/Apr Lead
KeenClimber 09/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead p1, p2 and p3.

with Ron
mattprince 27/Jan AltLd

Led pitch 1 & 3. We ran pitch 4 & 5 together with no rope drag. Pitch 3 traverse tricky and high in grade.

chris nutman ?/Jan AltLd

Lots of vegetation and all the holds were soaked, might be fun in the dry.

Hidden ??/2017 -
Heather Osborne 22/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led p3 and p5. Was good to finally do this route after getting lost on it with Chrissy and Bekah before summer!

Storme 22/Oct/16 AltLd

I led first pitch only. Traverse left to tree belay was pretty scary, fell off on the second.

with Heather Osborne, Phil Hawarden
fweatherall1 16/Oct/16 AltLd
foostu4 14/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, lots of fun short pitched. Fairly consistent at the grade. Disappointing that battle with the off-width on P5 was easily avoided by using holds on the left hand wall. Good route!

Fat Andy Heff 12/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Droyd
Droyd 12/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 2 (tried to run them together but couldn't due to rope-eating chimney), 5. 5 definitely quite hard for the grade - ended up climbing the corner due to lack of big cams, which was quite technical.

Matt Harmon 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led p4. Was going to do p5 but just couldn't deal with the off width. Not a very nice route.

with ali
Sardien 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Guidebook said low in the grade. Though that was a bit misleading - crux traverse is well tricky. P2 5a and P3 low 5b?

with Helena Robinson
patb82 30/Jul/16 AltLd dog
with Gorm (Norweigian guy)
John Dale 30/Jul/16 AltLd

I would go for 4a, 5a, 5b, 5a and perhaps just E1. Entertainment throughout!

with Dave Wagg, Mike Davies
Hidden 30/Apr/16 AltLd
neilh 30/Apr/16 -
Hidden 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
hazeysunshine 23/Apr/16 AltLd
with Milena
Tubs 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Peter H
ads 25/Mar/16 AltLd dog

need to work on the offwidths....

Ollie B 20/Mar/16 AltLd O/S


with W.Calvert
joedean 18/Mar/16 AltLd

Sweet route. Pitch 3 had some spice on it. Other the that really quite chilled climbing.

ianstevens 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

P4 and 5

with Emily Groves, Joe Dean
Dave Almond 15/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
frost 15/Mar/16 AltLd
emgroves ?/Mar/16 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
ginger ??/2016 -
with Jon Gupta, Nick
Hidden 08/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Pinguville 08/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2... and p.5 final chimney pitch . george did p1 and combined 3+4 to just below the offwidth . found p1 fine , im small and fit in the gap ,(then lowered off as i dropped nut key and then approached it differently facing right towards the wall and found a much easier move) p2 was tricky and delicate up the ramp hard moves. the crux p3 i found very hard convinced i was going to come off, but held on in tiny finger jams . then led the bloody hard crack at the top , gear on left wall was somewhat reassuring . didnt make it any easier to climb tho .. all in hard if not hardest climbing ive done in a while but enjoyable !

with George
Andy Clarke 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4.

with Johnny
tom jefferies 09/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

had to back off before last pitch, too dark!

Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
VPJB 14/Aug/15 Lead

Vegetation on pitch 4.

with Lloyd
Postmanpat 12/Aug/15 AltLd dog

If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience…..

rushy11111918 30/Jul/15 AltLd
with David
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
rob.grafton 25/Jul/15 AltLd
with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Interesting p3 and 5

with Ollie birkhill
9fingerjon 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
khalidq 27/May/15 2nd dnf

Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time.

Dan Vaj 27/May/15 Lead O/S

Only first two pitches then rained off

with Khalid
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd dog
PaulTanton 25/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
The Grist 25/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
SAF 20/Apr/15 2nd
with Phil
Hidden 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dan724 10/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Jones
r.greaves 30/Nov/14 AltLd
with neil
NatCheeseman 16/Nov/14 2nd dog
with Brian Mead
Matthew Ferrier 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches.

with Fran
franhammond92 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice.

Ewan Russell 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Also did merlin direct before this.

with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
will moy 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/14 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd
Sol Armer 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Ewano 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves.

Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
cpoad 19/Apr/14 Lead dog

Was tired and eventually pulled on gear on the off-width crack on the last pitch.

with Clare F
paulerussell 18/Apr/14 2nd dog

Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-(

with Kyle Pattinson
TimJ 11/Apr/14 Lead

Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.

with Dodi
kp64zl ?/Apr/14 Lead
with Paul OMC
davebrox ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
michael burrows 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
jezb1 24/Aug/13 2nd

Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.

Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Alex Riley 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Jasper
demarcation86 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.

with Paul
woody0606 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.

with Pete
Pete_Frost 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 06/Jun/13 AltLd RP
Simonfarfaraway 01/Jun/13 AltLd

Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)

Little B 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3

with Simon
Louis Hume 29/May/13 Lead dnf

Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.

with Oli
MikeLeeds 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
SteveM 06/May/13 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with SteveM
NB Pixel 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!

with Megan
BenRyle 03/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Dely
jezb1 25/Mar/13 Lead

Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.

Sol Armer 17/Feb/13 AltLd dnf

After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...

Hidden 17/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??/2013 -
edmitchell 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars

with brmc members
Hidden 27/Oct/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Aug/12 AltLd
danJBA 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 21/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
SJS 04/Jun/12 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead
Nick Russell 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!

Hidden 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
Tom Doldon 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
with sam simpson 48
guy757 28/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
arandall 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.

james.slater 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops!

Owain Llewelyn 07/Feb/12 Lead

This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.

with Dad
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Lenny 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with John, Phil .N
dan-8990 04/Oct/11 AltLd
with PR, NM
khalidq 17/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
al123 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree

with alex
Hidden 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
harold walmsley 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)

with Colin Struthers
Katex 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Will, Simon Edwards
centurion05 09/Jul/11 AltLd
Blurgy319 09/Jul/11 AltLd β

Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today

Simon Cahill 08/Jun/11 AltLd

In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4.

with David
carlh 04/Jun/11 -

A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales!

pebbles 29/May/11 2nd

guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!

with guido
pauldrew 22/May/11 Lead
DOVEY 12/May/11 Lead
with Loz / Maker
Martin Bennett 02/May/11 -
with NickH
HIGHTOWER 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.

with Nikki
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
crag_monster 16/Oct/10 AltLd
with Leo, murphydave
rustaldo 13/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..

uphillnow 10/Oct/10 AltLd

Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a

with Rik
popov86 ?/May/10 -
popov86 ?/May/10 Lead
lost.arrow 27/Mar/10 Lead
with Ian Ashworth
Hidden 27/Mar/10 AltLd dog
dan-8990 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with PB
beeson_paul 06/Mar/10 AltLd
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
sdawson1 ??/2010 -

tough little cookie

with Vic Belshaw
Hidden 26/Sep/09 AltLd dnf
sdawson1 15/Jul/09 AltLd

tough climb and varied ...a gem

with Martin
Skinny Kin 27/Jun/09 AltLd dog

This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.

with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Wayne S ??/2009 -


Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
Karlos 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete. Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!

with Mark B
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd
jamie ward 13/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!

with Stuart Williams
rob1 10/Aug/08 AltLd
with Dave Williams
Glyn 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Trystan
caradoc 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with john b
paulpitcher ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Deiter and Angela
paulpitchermp ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 02/Nov/07 AltLd dnf
Andrew Sloan 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led final 4b pitch in big boots.

with Steve Grove
Dan 85 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
peter myers ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom Sylvester
Mick B 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Matt Brennen
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd dnf
AngelaC 04/Apr/07 AltLd
climbingpixie 10/Mar/07 AltLd dnf

Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.

with Shaun
Wayne S ??/2007 -
tumbling wizard 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S

way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch

sgl0jd ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Steve Hobbs
ritchierich 26/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.

Hidden 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 29/May/06 AltLd
with remus
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ?/Nov/05 2nd
Rob Davies 29/May/05 AltLd

Traverse seemed like good 5b - I backed off and Phil led it. think I've failed here before

with Phil Ashton
Hidden ?/Apr/05 AltLd
babymoac 23/Nov/03 -
Hammy 06/Sep/03 AltLd
with Joe Gittens
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
Neil ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/02 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead β
lost.arrow 17/Jun/01 AltLd
with Paul Palfreyman
Just Another Dave ??/2001 Lead O/S

Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!

with Chris Bird
chrishedgehog 15/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
PaulTclimbing ?/Aug/95 Lead
with JT
Hidden 11/Jun/95 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/94 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/92 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with Unsure
ewar woowar ??/1987 -
nigehughes ?/Jun/83 AltLd
with Ian Maguire
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/83 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
GordonHart ??/1982 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/80 Lead
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
telemark ??/1978 AltLd
with Len Marlowe
RichardMc 02/May/76 Lead
with Dave Langmead
Steve Lewis 25/Feb/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
RichardMc 12/Sep/75 2nd
with Roger Everett
Hidden 23/Aug/75 AltLd
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
kjacks ??/1975 Lead

Ridiculous for VS at the time - the traverse was about the hardest thing I had done back then and the tree branch was a bit longer as well, the rest i found was OK.

granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
rogerskews 04/Jul/73 -
with Keith Jenkins
RichardMc 10/Jun/73 AltLd
with Alastair Gordon
jon 12/Jun/72 AltLd
with roger b
tapley 04/Jun/71 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
mikej 26/May/70 AltLd
with Jerry Young
Hidden 26/Jun/66 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set