Not 5b (as some say) but top end 5a on the traverse pitch, second pitch is also 5a (in my opinion). Quality and varied climbing.

I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4

Led 1st pitch and then 3rd and 4th pitch together. Brilliantly varied route.

I led pitches 2, 4 & 5.

Second and fourth pitch. Got carried away climbing the groove, started to feel bold and hard for 4c, a sure sign you're going the wrong way! Made it exciting for Rob to retrieve the gear.

Did the traverse pitch and the offwidth, but the crux was probably down climbing the e1 after rescuing gear haha no only joking it was definitely that traverse

Ace route, the finger traverse is a technical delight. Two star route all day long.

only p1 and p2 then bailed

Lead p1, p2 and p3.

Led pitch 1 & 3. We ran pitch 4 & 5 together with no rope drag. Pitch 3 traverse tricky and high in grade.

Lots of vegetation and all the holds were soaked, might be fun in the dry.

Led p3 and p5. Was good to finally do this route after getting lost on it with Chrissy and Bekah before summer!

I led first pitch only. Traverse left to tree belay was pretty scary, fell off on the second.

Fantastic route, lots of fun short pitched. Fairly consistent at the grade. Disappointing that battle with the off-width on P5 was easily avoided by using holds on the left hand wall. Good route!

Led 1, 2 (tried to run them together but couldn't due to rope-eating chimney), 5. 5 definitely quite hard for the grade - ended up climbing the corner due to lack of big cams, which was quite technical.

Led p4. Was going to do p5 but just couldn't deal with the off width. Not a very nice route.

Guidebook said low in the grade. Though that was a bit misleading - crux traverse is well tricky. P2 5a and P3 low 5b?

I would go for 4a, 5a, 5b, 5a and perhaps just E1. Entertainment throughout!

need to work on the offwidths....

P3,4

Sweet route. Pitch 3 had some spice on it. Other the that really quite chilled climbing.

P4 and 5

Led p2... and p.5 final chimney pitch . george did p1 and combined 3+4 to just below the offwidth . found p1 fine , im small and fit in the gap ,(then lowered off as i dropped nut key and then approached it differently facing right towards the wall and found a much easier move) p2 was tricky and delicate up the ramp hard moves. the crux p3 i found very hard convinced i was going to come off, but held on in tiny finger jams . then led the bloody hard crack at the top , gear on left wall was somewhat reassuring . didnt make it any easier to climb tho .. all in hard if not hardest climbing ive done in a while but enjoyable !

A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4.

had to back off before last pitch, too dark!

Vegetation on pitch 4.

If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience…..

Interesting p3 and 5

Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time.

Only first two pitches then rained off

P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches.

Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice.

Also did merlin direct before this.

P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves.

Was tired and eventually pulled on gear on the off-width crack on the last pitch.

Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-(

Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.

Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.

Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.

Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.

Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.

Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)

start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3

Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.

Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!

Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.

After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...

Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars

I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!

VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.

Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops!

This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.

i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree

Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)

Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today

In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4.

A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales!

guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!

Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.

i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..

Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a

tough little cookie

tough climb and varied ...a gem

This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.

P2, P3DNF

I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete. Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!

Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!

Led final 4b pitch in big boots.

Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.

way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch

Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.

Traverse seemed like good 5b - I backed off and Phil led it. think I've failed here before

Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!

Ridiculous for VS at the time - the traverse was about the hardest thing I had done back then and the tree branch was a bit longer as well, the rest i found was OK.