64m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some alpine-esque blocks to gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge gain a right trending ramp-line (steep at first) and continue to a good tree belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep blocky section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left.
4) 4c, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree.
5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © Rockfax

H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955

Ticklists

Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, The V.S.+ Ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
spidey 21 Sep AltLd O/S
with pftom
with pftom
pftom 21 Sep AltLd O/S
with Ryan C
with Ryan C
andycash 10 Sep AltLd O/S
smithjmw46 4 Sep Lead O/S
Marti999 2 Sep Lead O/S
with Ben Hallett
with Ben Hallett
Misha 15 Jun Lead dog Mock guiding, led all. Bit of a disaster! P1 fine. P2 fell off on the initial steep wall, FFS! Foot popped off - may have been wet from a wet hold lower down. Small fall and Kam held it fine. Missed the jig right and carried on up the groove, which is an E1 (couple of tricky moves). Knew I was off route but thought I was completely in the wrong groove so didn’t try to correct - actually just missed a turn. Read the guide book! So missed out on the 5a traverse crux. P3 got us back en route. P4 not as much of a thrutch as expected. Had a few belay rope tangles as well. On the whole, not a great route to guide due to the line and a couple of the pitches aren’t that good. Had soloed (!!!) this in 2014 but (clearly) didn’t remember much.
with Kam, tjoliver
Mock guiding, led all. Bit of a disaster! P1 fine. P2 fell off on the initial steep wall, FFS! Foot popped off - may have been wet from a wet hold lower down. Small fall and Kam held it fine. Missed the jig right and carried on up the groove, which is an E1 (couple of tricky moves). Knew I was off route but thought I was completely in the wrong groove so didn’t try to correct - actually just missed a turn. Read the guide book! So missed out on the 5a traverse crux. P3 got us back en route. P4 not as much of a thrutch as expected. Had a few belay rope tangles as well. On the whole, not a great route to guide due to the line and a couple of the pitches aren’t that good. Had soloed (!!!) this in 2014 but (clearly) didn’t remember much.
with Kam, tjoliver
Andrew Knight 15 Jun 2nd
Hidden 15 Jun 2nd O/S
Ralfy 16 May AltLd rpt
with peter kis
with peter kis
michael burrows 12 May AltLd rpt Led pitch 1,2 as one, and pitch 5
Led pitch 1,2 as one, and pitch 5
Ian Ford 12 May AltLd O/S Great fun and quite tricky on each pitch. The hand traverse is great if a bit terrifying.
Great fun and quite tricky on each pitch. The hand traverse is great if a bit terrifying.
elliotphillips43 ?May AltLd O/S
with Rich yo
with Rich yo
Rp20 ?May AltLd O/S Lead traverse pitch
with Elliot
Lead traverse pitch
with Elliot
PeteMc 23 Apr AltLd O/S
with giles
with giles
Flavio 6 Apr AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 6 Apr AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Graham Carter ?? Lead
with Kevin Edwards and Others
with Kevin Edwards and Others
Kam84 ?? 2nd
Simon CD ?? -
tradisrad 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Alex Riley 28 Sep, 2018 AltLd rpt
Hannes B 13 Sep, 2018 Lead
with Joss, Alex Cutbush
with Joss, Alex Cutbush
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
RioVista23 30 May, 2018 AltLd dnf
with Graham Mercer
with Graham Mercer
jobangles 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2 and P5. P2 lovely technical bridgy stuff. The P3 traverse was fantastic airy fun! P5 offwidth crack was a bit of a fight, when the bridging peters out, commit and go for the jugs!
Lead P2 and P5. P2 lovely technical bridgy stuff. The P3 traverse was fantastic airy fun! P5 offwidth crack was a bit of a fight, when the bridging peters out, commit and go for the jugs!
Coel Hellier 12 May, 2018 Lead
dobby 200 23 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S I led p 1, 3 and 5. An awesome traverse pitch!
I led p 1, 3 and 5. An awesome traverse pitch!
Luke Brooks 25 Mar, 2018 Lead rpt Vegetated scrambling interspersed with quite good boulder problems.
with Kate
Vegetated scrambling interspersed with quite good boulder problems.
with Kate
JackM92 8 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Some great climbing but very broken up. A touch hard at HVS? The finger traverse is class, steady and easy if you keep moving. But pretty bold for the second!
Some great climbing but very broken up. A touch hard at HVS? The finger traverse is class, steady and easy if you keep moving. But pretty bold for the second!
youwillfindjimbo 8 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2, and 4+5 combined. Felt hard, but having not climbed in like 6 weeks I'm probably off my game. Seconding pitch 3 was quite a buzz!
with JackM92
Led pitches 2, and 4+5 combined. Felt hard, but having not climbed in like 6 weeks I'm probably off my game. Seconding pitch 3 was quite a buzz!
with JackM92
shaun goodey ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Graham Carter ??, 2018 -
Hidden 7 Aug, 2017 2nd
Col Kingshott 14 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Not 5b (as some say) but top end 5a on the traverse pitch, second pitch is also 5a (in my opinion). Quality and varied climbing.
Not 5b (as some say) but top end 5a on the traverse pitch, second pitch is also 5a (in my opinion). Quality and varied climbing.
foostu4 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd rpt
Katie S 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4
with Stu p
I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4
with Stu p
Mike Todd 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch and then 3rd and 4th pitch together. Brilliantly varied route.
with Andy Bunnage
Led 1st pitch and then 3rd and 4th pitch together. Brilliantly varied route.
with Andy Bunnage
Luke Brooks ?Jul, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 -
Ows ?Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
hotfeet 6 May, 2017 AltLd I led pitches 2, 4 & 5.
I led pitches 2, 4 & 5.
James Worthington 6 May, 2017 AltLd Second and fourth pitch. Got carried away climbing the groove, started to feel bold and hard for 4c, a sure sign you're going the wrong way! Made it exciting for Rob to retrieve the gear.
Second and fourth pitch. Got carried away climbing the groove, started to feel bold and hard for 4c, a sure sign you're going the wrong way! Made it exciting for Rob to retrieve the gear.
dr_botnik 6 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Did the traverse pitch and the offwidth, but the crux was probably down climbing the e1 after rescuing gear haha no only joking it was definitely that traverse
Did the traverse pitch and the offwidth, but the crux was probably down climbing the e1 after rescuing gear haha no only joking it was definitely that traverse
Anti-faff 5 May, 2017 2nd Ace route, the finger traverse is a technical delight. Two star route all day long.
with Jas Wood
Ace route, the finger traverse is a technical delight. Two star route all day long.
with Jas Wood
rachelpearce01 20 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 20 Apr, 2017 AltLd started from p2, harder than i remember. rachel led p3. emily had a bit of a mare on the traverse! abbed off from there i think
started from p2, harder than i remember. rachel led p3. emily had a bit of a mare on the traverse! abbed off from there i think
Helen Rudkin 15 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Steph Heeley, Max Railling
with Steph Heeley, Max Railling
stephheels 15 Apr, 2017 2nd only p1 and p2 then bailed
only p1 and p2 then bailed
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 AltLd
steven_daniels99 13 Apr, 2017 Lead
KeenClimber 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead p1, p2 and p3.
with Ron
Lead p1, p2 and p3.
with Ron
mattprince 27 Jan, 2017 AltLd Led pitch 1 & 3. We ran pitch 4 & 5 together with no rope drag. Pitch 3 traverse tricky and high in grade.
Led pitch 1 & 3. We ran pitch 4 & 5 together with no rope drag. Pitch 3 traverse tricky and high in grade.
chris nutman ?Jan, 2017 AltLd Lots of vegetation and all the holds were soaked, might be fun in the dry.
Lots of vegetation and all the holds were soaked, might be fun in the dry.
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Philip Hawarden 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd Me and stormy fell off the traverse tehee
Me and stormy fell off the traverse tehee
Heather Osborne 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p3 and p5. Was good to finally do this route after getting lost on it with Chrissy and Bekah before summer!
Led p3 and p5. Was good to finally do this route after getting lost on it with Chrissy and Bekah before summer!
Storme 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd I led first pitch only. Traverse left to tree belay was pretty scary, fell off on the second.
with Heather Osborne, Phil Hawarden
I led first pitch only. Traverse left to tree belay was pretty scary, fell off on the second.
with Heather Osborne, Phil Hawarden
fweatherall1 16 Oct, 2016 AltLd
foostu4 14 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic route, lots of fun short pitched. Fairly consistent at the grade. Disappointing that battle with the off-width on P5 was easily avoided by using holds on the left hand wall. Good route!
Fantastic route, lots of fun short pitched. Fairly consistent at the grade. Disappointing that battle with the off-width on P5 was easily avoided by using holds on the left hand wall. Good route!
Fat Andy Heff 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Droyd
with Droyd
Droyd 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 1, 2 (tried to run them together but couldn't due to rope-eating chimney), 5. 5 definitely quite hard for the grade - ended up climbing the corner due to lack of big cams, which was quite technical.
Led 1, 2 (tried to run them together but couldn't due to rope-eating chimney), 5. 5 definitely quite hard for the grade - ended up climbing the corner due to lack of big cams, which was quite technical.
Matt Harmon 8 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p4. Was going to do p5 but just couldn't deal with the off width. Not a very nice route.
Led p4. Was going to do p5 but just couldn't deal with the off width. Not a very nice route.
Sardien 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Guidebook said low in the grade. Though that was a bit misleading - crux traverse is well tricky. P2 5a and P3 low 5b?
with Helena Robinson
Guidebook said low in the grade. Though that was a bit misleading - crux traverse is well tricky. P2 5a and P3 low 5b?
with Helena Robinson
patb82 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd dog
with Gorm (Norweigian guy)
with Gorm (Norweigian guy)
John Dale 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd I would go for 4a, 5a, 5b, 5a and perhaps just E1. Entertainment throughout!
with Dave Wagg, Mike Davies
I would go for 4a, 5a, 5b, 5a and perhaps just E1. Entertainment throughout!
with Dave Wagg, Mike Davies
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 AltLd
neilh 30 Apr, 2016 -
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
hazeysunshine 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd
with Milena
with Milena
Tubs 16 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Peter H
with Peter H
ads 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd dog need to work on the offwidths....
need to work on the offwidths....
Ollie B 20 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S P3,4
with W.Calvert
P3,4
with W.Calvert
joedean 18 Mar, 2016 AltLd Sweet route. Pitch 3 had some spice on it. Other the that really quite chilled climbing.
Sweet route. Pitch 3 had some spice on it. Other the that really quite chilled climbing.
ianstevens 18 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S P4 and 5
with Emily Groves, joedean
P4 and 5
with Emily Groves, joedean
Dave Almond 15 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
with frost
with frost
frost 15 Mar, 2016 AltLd
emgroves ?Mar, 2016 AltLd
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
TravisDean ??, 2016 Lead
ginger ??, 2016 -
with jongupta, Nick
with jongupta, Nick
George_Surf 8 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S I took p1 easy chimney. charlie p2 the moves after the corner were awkward and tricky. p3 was ok but the traverse is quite tough with very thin finger slots, right on a peg and a bomber wire though. p4 charlie led up the wide crack this was also a struggle im suprised i didnt fall out!
I took p1 easy chimney. charlie p2 the moves after the corner were awkward and tricky. p3 was ok but the traverse is quite tough with very thin finger slots, right on a peg and a bomber wire though. p4 charlie led up the wide crack this was also a struggle im suprised i didnt fall out!
Pinguville 8 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p2... and p.5 final chimney pitch . george did p1 and combined 3+4 to just below the offwidth . found p1 fine , im small and fit in the gap ,(then lowered off as i dropped nut key and then approached it differently facing right towards the wall and found a much easier move) p2 was tricky and delicate up the ramp hard moves. the crux p3 i found very hard convinced i was going to come off, but held on in tiny finger jams . then led the bloody hard crack at the top , gear on left wall was somewhat reassuring . didnt make it any easier to climb tho .. all in hard if not hardest climbing ive done in a while but enjoyable !
Led p2... and p.5 final chimney pitch . george did p1 and combined 3+4 to just below the offwidth . found p1 fine , im small and fit in the gap ,(then lowered off as i dropped nut key and then approached it differently facing right towards the wall and found a much easier move) p2 was tricky and delicate up the ramp hard moves. the crux p3 i found very hard convinced i was going to come off, but held on in tiny finger jams . then led the bloody hard crack at the top , gear on left wall was somewhat reassuring . didnt make it any easier to climb tho .. all in hard if not hardest climbing ive done in a while but enjoyable !
Andy Clarke 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4.
with Johnny
A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4.
with Johnny
tom jefferies 9 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S had to back off before last pitch, too dark!
had to back off before last pitch, too dark!
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
VPJB 14 Aug, 2015 Lead Vegetation on pitch 4.
with Lloyd
Vegetation on pitch 4.
with Lloyd
Postmanpat 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd dog If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience…..
If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience…..
rushy11111918 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with David
with David
Hidden 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
rob.grafton 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith
with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Interesting p3 and 5
with Ollie birkhill
Interesting p3 and 5
with Ollie birkhill
9fingerjon 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
khalidq 27 May, 2015 2nd dnf Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time.
with Dan Vaj
Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time.
with Dan Vaj
Dan Vaj 27 May, 2015 Lead O/S Only first two pitches then rained off
with khalidq
Only first two pitches then rained off
with khalidq
Hidden 23 May, 2015 AltLd dog
Hidden 25 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
The Grist 25 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Apr, 2015 2nd
Hidden 20 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Dan Hale 10 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dan Jones
with Dan Jones
r.greaves 30 Nov, 2014 AltLd
with neil
with neil
NatCheeseman 16 Nov, 2014 2nd dog
with Brian Mead
with Brian Mead
Matthew Ferrier 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches.
P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches.
franhammond92 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice.
Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice.
Ewan Russell 28 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S Also did merlin direct before this.
with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols
Also did merlin direct before this.
with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols
DubyaJamesDubya ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
will moy 19 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 7 Aug, 2014 2nd
Sol Armer 7 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ewano 13 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves.
with peat
P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves.
with peat
Hidden 13 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Seraphic8x ?May, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
cpoad 19 Apr, 2014 Lead dog Was tired and eventually pulled on gear on the off-width crack on the last pitch.
with Clare F
Was tired and eventually pulled on gear on the off-width crack on the last pitch.
with Clare F
paulerussell 18 Apr, 2014 2nd dog Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-(
with Kyle Pattinson
Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-(
with Kyle Pattinson
TimJ 11 Apr, 2014 Lead Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.
with Dodi
Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.
with Dodi
kylo-342 ?Apr, 2014 Lead
with Paul OMC
with Paul OMC
davebrox ??, 2014 -
Si ??, 2014 -
michael burrows 12 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with rockcat
with rockcat
jezb1 24 Aug, 2013 2nd Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.
Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.
Rob84 23 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rob Adie, mel_1
with Rob Adie, mel_1
Alex Riley 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Jasper
with Jasper
demarcation86 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.
Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.
woody0606 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.
with Pete
Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.
with Pete
Pete_Frost 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.
Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 6 Jun, 2013 AltLd RP
Simonfarfaraway 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)
Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)
Little B 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3
start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3
Louis Hume 29 May, 2013 Lead dnf Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.
with Oli
Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.
with Oli
MikeLeeds 6 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
SteveM 6 May, 2013 Lead
kitkat78 6 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with SteveM
with SteveM
NB Pixel 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!
with Megan
Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!
with Megan
BenRyle 3 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
jezb1 25 Mar, 2013 Lead Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.
Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.
Sol Armer 17 Feb, 2013 AltLd dnf After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...
After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...
Hidden 17 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
adie84 ??, 2013 -
edmitchell 27 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars
with brmc members
Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars
with brmc members
Hidden 27 Oct, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 7 Aug, 2012 AltLd
danJBA 21 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
roberts1234567890 21 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with danJBA
with danJBA
Hidden 5 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
SJS 4 Jun, 2012 2nd
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 Lead
Nick Russell 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!
with SJS
I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!
with SJS
Hidden 19 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Tom Doldon 19 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with sam simpson 48
with sam simpson 48
Hidden 28 Apr, 2012 Lead
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 AltLd
arandall 7 Apr, 2012 Lead dog VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.
VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.
james.slater 6 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops!
Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops!
Owain Llewelyn 7 Feb, 2012 Lead This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.
with Dad
This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.
with Dad
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Lenny 19 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S
with John, Phil .N
with John, Phil .N
dan-8990 4 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with PR, NM
with PR, NM
khalidq 17 Sep, 2011 2nd
Hidden 17 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
al123 1 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree
with Alex.rh
i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree
with Alex.rh
Hidden 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
harold walmsley 9 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)
with Colin Struthers
Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)
with Colin Struthers
Katex 5 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Will, Simon Edwards
with Will, Simon Edwards
centurion05 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Blurgy319 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd β Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today
Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today
Simon Cahill 8 Jun, 2011 AltLd In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4.
with David
In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4.
with David
carlh 4 Jun, 2011 - A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales!
A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales!
pebbles 29 May, 2011 2nd guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!
guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!
pauldrew 22 May, 2011 Lead
DOVEY 12 May, 2011 Lead
with Loz / Maker
with Loz / Maker
Martin Bennett 2 May, 2011 -
with NickH
with NickH
HIGHTOWER 2 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.
Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
crag_monster 16 Oct, 2010 AltLd
with Leo, edpd1b
with Leo, edpd1b
rustaldo 13 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..
i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..
uphillnow 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a
with Rik
Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a
with Rik
popov86 ?May, 2010 -
popov86 ?May, 2010 Lead
lost.arrow 27 Mar, 2010 Lead
with Ian Ashworth
with Ian Ashworth
Hidden 27 Mar, 2010 AltLd dog
dan-8990 8 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with PB
with PB
beeson_paul 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd
alasdair19 ??, 2010 -
simeclimb68 ??, 2010 -
sdawson1 ??, 2010 - tough little cookie
with Vic Belshaw
tough little cookie
with Vic Belshaw
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd dnf
sdawson1 15 Jul, 2009 AltLd tough climb and varied ...a gem
with Martin
tough climb and varied ...a gem
with Martin
Skinny Kin 27 Jun, 2009 AltLd dog This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.
with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne
This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.
with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne
Hidden 21 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
Wayne S ?Jan, 2009 AltLd
with Skyfall
with Skyfall
Wayne S ??, 2009 - P2, P3DNF
with Skyfall
P2, P3DNF
with Skyfall
Hidden 21 Sep, 2008 AltLd rpt
Karlos 21 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete. Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!
I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete. Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 AltLd
jamie ward 13 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!
with Stuart Williams
Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!
with Stuart Williams
rob1 10 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Dave Williams
with Dave Williams
Glyn 22 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Trystan
with Trystan
caradoc 24 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
paulpitcher ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Deiter and Angela
with Deiter and Angela
paulpitchermp ??, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 2 Nov, 2007 AltLd dnf
Andrew Sloan 30 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S Led final 4b pitch in big boots.
with Steve Grove
Led final 4b pitch in big boots.
with Steve Grove
Dan 85 2 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
with Jonny
peter myers ?Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom Sylvester
with Tom Sylvester
Mick B 5 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Matt Brennen
with Matt Brennen
Hidden 21 Apr, 2007 2nd dnf
AngelaC 4 Apr, 2007 AltLd
with dpc
with dpc
climbingpixie 10 Mar, 2007 AltLd dnf Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.
with Shaun
Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.
with Shaun
Wayne S ??, 2007 -
tumbling wizard 21 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch
way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch
sgl0jd ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Steve Hobbs
with Steve Hobbs
ritchierich 26 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.
Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.
Hidden 29 May, 2006 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 29 May, 2006 AltLd
with remus
with remus
Hidden ??, 2006 -
mikelaing ?Nov, 2005 2nd
Rob Davies 29 May, 2005 AltLd Traverse seemed like good 5b - I backed off and Phil led it. think I've failed here before
with Phil A
Traverse seemed like good 5b - I backed off and Phil led it. think I've failed here before
with Phil A
Hidden 24 Apr, 2005 AltLd dnf
Wayne S ?Apr, 2005 AltLd
with Skyfall
with Skyfall
nuts and bolts ??, 2005 AltLd
babymoac 23 Nov, 2003 -
Hammy 6 Sep, 2003 AltLd
with Joe Gittens
with Joe Gittens
John Kettle ??, 2003 AltLd
Neil ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Becca_itd 5 May, 2002 AltLd
Hidden 5 May, 2002 AltLd
Hidden 4 May, 2002 Lead β
lost.arrow 17 Jun, 2001 AltLd
with Paul Palfreyman
with Paul Palfreyman
Just Another Dave ??, 2001 Lead O/S Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!
with Chris Bird
Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!
with Chris Bird
chrishedgehog 15 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
with Joe Thompson
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 AltLd O/S
Iain Brown 10 May, 1998 -
with Ricardo
with Ricardo
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
PaulTclimbing ?Aug, 1995 Lead
with JT
with JT
Hidden 11 Jun, 1995 AltLd
Hidden 30 Apr, 1994 Lead
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Hidden 27 Jun, 1992 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
ewar woowar ??, 1987 -
nigehughes ?Jun, 1983 AltLd
with Ian Maguire
with Ian Maguire
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Jun, 1983 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
with Phillippa Mathews
GordonHart ??, 1982 Lead O/S
nniff ??, 1982 -
clanger ?Jan, 1981 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Hidden 9 Apr, 1980 Lead
daviesxxx ??, 1980 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1980 Solo
nickprior 24 Aug, 1979 AltLd
with Len Marlowe
with Len Marlowe
migs493 6 Jul, 1979 AltLd
RichardMc 2 May, 1976 Lead
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Steve Lewis 25 Feb, 1976 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
RichardMc 12 Sep, 1975 2nd
with Roger Everett
with Roger Everett
Hidden 23 Aug, 1975 AltLd
petemeads ??, 1975 Lead
kjacks ??, 1975 Lead Ridiculous for VS at the time - the traverse was about the hardest thing I had done back then and the tree branch was a bit longer as well, the rest i found was OK.
Ridiculous for VS at the time - the traverse was about the hardest thing I had done back then and the tree branch was a bit longer as well, the rest i found was OK.
granitbahn ??, 1975 AltLd
rogerskews 4 Jul, 1973 -
with Keith Jenkins
with Keith Jenkins
RichardMc 10 Jun, 1973 AltLd
with Alastair Gordon
with Alastair Gordon
Hidden 12 Jun, 1972 AltLd
Rick51 9 Oct, 1971 AltLd
tapley 4 Jun, 1971 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
with Dave Hearnshaw
mikej 26 May, 1970 AltLd
with Jerry Young
with Jerry Young
Hidden 26 Jun, 1966 Lead
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 50
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set