64m, 4 pitches. Feedback
Rockfax Description
This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some alpine-esque blocks to gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge gain a right trending ramp-line (steep at first) and continue to a good tree belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep blocky section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left.
4) 4c, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree.
5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © Rockfax
H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955
Ticklists
Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, The V.S.+ Ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback
Logged Ascents
| User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
|
|---|---|---|---|
| spidey | 21 Sep | AltLd O/S |
with pftom |
with pftom |
|||
| pftom | 21 Sep | AltLd O/S |
with Ryan C |
with Ryan C |
|||
| andycash | 10 Sep | AltLd O/S |
with Ed Hastings |
with Ed Hastings |
|||
| smithjmw46 | 4 Sep | Lead O/S |
with mussonlr |
with mussonlr |
|||
| Marti999 | 2 Sep | Lead O/S |
with Ben Hallett |
with Ben Hallett |
|||
| Misha | 15 Jun | Lead dog |
Mock guiding, led all. Bit of a disaster! P1 fine. P2 fell off on the initial steep wall, FFS! Foot popped off - may have been wet from a wet hold lower down. Small fall and Kam held it fine. Missed the jig right and carried on up the groove, which is an E1 (couple of tricky moves). Knew I was off route but thought I was completely in the wrong groove so didn’t try to correct - actually just missed a turn. Read the guide book! So missed out on the 5a traverse crux. P3 got us back en route. P4 not as much of a thrutch as expected. Had a few belay rope tangles as well. On the whole, not a great route to guide due to the line and a couple of the pitches aren’t that good. Had soloed (!!!) this in 2014 but (clearly) didn’t remember much. with Kam, tjoliver |
| Mock guiding, led all. Bit of a disaster! P1 fine. P2 fell off on the initial steep wall, FFS! Foot popped off - may have been wet from a wet hold lower down. Small fall and Kam held it fine. Missed the jig right and carried on up the groove, which is an E1 (couple of tricky moves). Knew I was off route but thought I was completely in the wrong groove so didn’t try to correct - actually just missed a turn. Read the guide book! So missed out on the 5a traverse crux. P3 got us back en route. P4 not as much of a thrutch as expected. Had a few belay rope tangles as well. On the whole, not a great route to guide due to the line and a couple of the pitches aren’t that good. Had soloed (!!!) this in 2014 but (clearly) didn’t remember much. with Kam, tjoliver |
|||
| Andrew Knight | 15 Jun | 2nd | |
| Hidden | 15 Jun | 2nd O/S | |
| Ralfy | 16 May | AltLd rpt |
with peter kis |
with peter kis |
|||
| michael burrows | 12 May | AltLd rpt |
Led pitch 1,2 as one, and pitch 5 with Ian Ford |
| Led pitch 1,2 as one, and pitch 5 with Ian Ford |
|||
| Ian Ford | 12 May | AltLd O/S | Great fun and quite tricky on each pitch. The hand traverse is great if a bit terrifying. |
| Great fun and quite tricky on each pitch. The hand traverse is great if a bit terrifying. | |||
| elliotphillips43 | ?May | AltLd O/S |
with Rich yo |
with Rich yo |
|||
| Rp20 | ?May | AltLd O/S |
Lead traverse pitch with Elliot |
| Lead traverse pitch with Elliot |
|||
| PeteMc | 23 Apr | AltLd O/S |
with giles |
with giles |
|||
| Flavio | 6 Apr | AltLd O/S |
with JendeHoxar |
with JendeHoxar |
|||
| JendeHoxar | 6 Apr | AltLd O/S |
with Flavio |
with Flavio |
|||
| Graham Carter | ?? | Lead |
with Kevin Edwards and Others |
with Kevin Edwards and Others |
|||
| Kam84 | ?? | 2nd | |
| Simon CD | ?? | - | |
| tradisrad | 29 Sep, 2018 | AltLd O/S | |
| Alex Riley | 28 Sep, 2018 | AltLd rpt |
with Anna Riley |
with Anna Riley |
|||
| Hannes B | 13 Sep, 2018 | Lead |
with Joss, Alex Cutbush |
with Joss, Alex Cutbush |
|||
| Hidden | 3 Jun, 2018 | AltLd O/S | |
| Hidden | 3 Jun, 2018 | AltLd O/S | |
| RioVista23 | 30 May, 2018 | AltLd dnf |
with Graham Mercer |
with Graham Mercer |
|||
| jobangles | 27 May, 2018 | AltLd O/S |
Lead P2 and P5. P2 lovely technical bridgy stuff. The P3 traverse was fantastic airy fun! P5 offwidth crack was a bit of a fight, when the bridging peters out, commit and go for the jugs! with David Barlow |
| Lead P2 and P5. P2 lovely technical bridgy stuff. The P3 traverse was fantastic airy fun! P5 offwidth crack was a bit of a fight, when the bridging peters out, commit and go for the jugs! with David Barlow |
|||
| Coel Hellier | 12 May, 2018 | Lead | |
| dobby 200 | 23 Apr, 2018 | AltLd O/S | I led p 1, 3 and 5. An awesome traverse pitch! |
| I led p 1, 3 and 5. An awesome traverse pitch! | |||
| Luke Brooks | 25 Mar, 2018 | Lead rpt |
Vegetated scrambling interspersed with quite good boulder problems. with Kate |
| Vegetated scrambling interspersed with quite good boulder problems. with Kate |
|||
| JackM92 | 8 Jan, 2018 | AltLd O/S | Some great climbing but very broken up. A touch hard at HVS? The finger traverse is class, steady and easy if you keep moving. But pretty bold for the second! |
| Some great climbing but very broken up. A touch hard at HVS? The finger traverse is class, steady and easy if you keep moving. But pretty bold for the second! | |||
| youwillfindjimbo | 8 Jan, 2018 | AltLd O/S |
Led pitches 2, and 4+5 combined. Felt hard, but having not climbed in like 6 weeks I'm probably off my game. Seconding pitch 3 was quite a buzz! with JackM92 |
| Led pitches 2, and 4+5 combined. Felt hard, but having not climbed in like 6 weeks I'm probably off my game. Seconding pitch 3 was quite a buzz! with JackM92 |
|||
| shaun goodey | ??, 2018 | - | |
| Hidden | ??, 2018 | - | |
| Graham Carter | ??, 2018 | - | |
| Hidden | 7 Aug, 2017 | 2nd | |
| Col Kingshott | 14 Jul, 2017 | Lead O/S | Not 5b (as some say) but top end 5a on the traverse pitch, second pitch is also 5a (in my opinion). Quality and varied climbing. |
| Not 5b (as some say) but top end 5a on the traverse pitch, second pitch is also 5a (in my opinion). Quality and varied climbing. | |||
| foostu4 | 9 Jul, 2017 | AltLd rpt | |
| Katie S | 9 Jul, 2017 | AltLd O/S |
I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4 with Stu p |
| I lead pitches 1, 3 and 4 with Stu p |
|||
| Mike Todd | 8 Jul, 2017 | AltLd O/S |
Led 1st pitch and then 3rd and 4th pitch together. Brilliantly varied route. with Andy Bunnage |
| Led 1st pitch and then 3rd and 4th pitch together. Brilliantly varied route. with Andy Bunnage |
|||
| Luke Brooks | ?Jul, 2017 | Solo O/S | |
| Hidden | 21 Jun, 2017 | - | |
| Ows | ?Jun, 2017 | AltLd O/S | |
| hotfeet | 6 May, 2017 | AltLd |
I led pitches 2, 4 & 5. with jason smeeth |
| I led pitches 2, 4 & 5. with jason smeeth |
|||
| James Worthington | 6 May, 2017 | AltLd |
Second and fourth pitch. Got carried away climbing the groove, started to feel bold and hard for 4c, a sure sign you're going the wrong way! Made it exciting for Rob to retrieve the gear. with dr_botnik |
| Second and fourth pitch. Got carried away climbing the groove, started to feel bold and hard for 4c, a sure sign you're going the wrong way! Made it exciting for Rob to retrieve the gear. with dr_botnik |
|||
| dr_botnik | 6 May, 2017 | AltLd O/S |
Did the traverse pitch and the offwidth, but the crux was probably down climbing the e1 after rescuing gear haha no only joking it was definitely that traverse with James Worthington |
| Did the traverse pitch and the offwidth, but the crux was probably down climbing the e1 after rescuing gear haha no only joking it was definitely that traverse with James Worthington |
|||
| Anti-faff | 5 May, 2017 | 2nd |
Ace route, the finger traverse is a technical delight. Two star route all day long. with Jas Wood |
| Ace route, the finger traverse is a technical delight. Two star route all day long. with Jas Wood |
|||
| rachelpearce01 | 20 Apr, 2017 | AltLd O/S |
with George_Surf |
with George_Surf |
|||
| George_Surf | 20 Apr, 2017 | AltLd |
started from p2, harder than i remember. rachel led p3. emily had a bit of a mare on the traverse! abbed off from there i think with rachelpearce01 |
| started from p2, harder than i remember. rachel led p3. emily had a bit of a mare on the traverse! abbed off from there i think with rachelpearce01 |
|||
| Helen Rudkin | 15 Apr, 2017 | Lead |
with Steph Heeley, Max Railling |
with Steph Heeley, Max Railling |
|||
| stephheels | 15 Apr, 2017 | 2nd | only p1 and p2 then bailed |
| only p1 and p2 then bailed | |||
| Hidden | 13 Apr, 2017 | AltLd | |
| steven_daniels99 | 13 Apr, 2017 | Lead | |
| KeenClimber | 9 Apr, 2017 | AltLd O/S |
Lead p1, p2 and p3. with Ron |
| Lead p1, p2 and p3. with Ron |
|||
| mattprince | 27 Jan, 2017 | AltLd |
Led pitch 1 & 3. We ran pitch 4 & 5 together with no rope drag. Pitch 3 traverse tricky and high in grade. with joedoherty |
| Led pitch 1 & 3. We ran pitch 4 & 5 together with no rope drag. Pitch 3 traverse tricky and high in grade. with joedoherty |
|||
| chris nutman | ?Jan, 2017 | AltLd | Lots of vegetation and all the holds were soaked, might be fun in the dry. |
| Lots of vegetation and all the holds were soaked, might be fun in the dry. | |||
| Hidden | ??, 2017 | - | |
| Philip Hawarden | 22 Oct, 2016 | AltLd |
Me and stormy fell off the traverse tehee with Heather Osborne |
| Me and stormy fell off the traverse tehee with Heather Osborne |
|||
| Heather Osborne | 22 Oct, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
Led p3 and p5. Was good to finally do this route after getting lost on it with Chrissy and Bekah before summer! with Philip Hawarden, Storme |
| Led p3 and p5. Was good to finally do this route after getting lost on it with Chrissy and Bekah before summer! with Philip Hawarden, Storme |
|||
| Storme | 22 Oct, 2016 | AltLd |
I led first pitch only. Traverse left to tree belay was pretty scary, fell off on the second. with Heather Osborne, Phil Hawarden |
| I led first pitch only. Traverse left to tree belay was pretty scary, fell off on the second. with Heather Osborne, Phil Hawarden |
|||
| fweatherall1 | 16 Oct, 2016 | AltLd | |
| foostu4 | 14 Oct, 2016 | Lead O/S | Fantastic route, lots of fun short pitched. Fairly consistent at the grade. Disappointing that battle with the off-width on P5 was easily avoided by using holds on the left hand wall. Good route! |
| Fantastic route, lots of fun short pitched. Fairly consistent at the grade. Disappointing that battle with the off-width on P5 was easily avoided by using holds on the left hand wall. Good route! | |||
| Fat Andy Heff | 12 Oct, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
with Droyd |
with Droyd |
|||
| Droyd | 12 Oct, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
Led 1, 2 (tried to run them together but couldn't due to rope-eating chimney), 5. 5 definitely quite hard for the grade - ended up climbing the corner due to lack of big cams, which was quite technical. with Fat Andy Heff |
| Led 1, 2 (tried to run them together but couldn't due to rope-eating chimney), 5. 5 definitely quite hard for the grade - ended up climbing the corner due to lack of big cams, which was quite technical. with Fat Andy Heff |
|||
| Matt Harmon | 8 Oct, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
Led p4. Was going to do p5 but just couldn't deal with the off width. Not a very nice route. with alistringer |
| Led p4. Was going to do p5 but just couldn't deal with the off width. Not a very nice route. with alistringer |
|||
| Sardien | 13 Aug, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
Guidebook said low in the grade. Though that was a bit misleading - crux traverse is well tricky. P2 5a and P3 low 5b? with Helena Robinson |
| Guidebook said low in the grade. Though that was a bit misleading - crux traverse is well tricky. P2 5a and P3 low 5b? with Helena Robinson |
|||
| patb82 | 30 Jul, 2016 | AltLd dog |
with Gorm (Norweigian guy) |
with Gorm (Norweigian guy) |
|||
| John Dale | 30 Jul, 2016 | AltLd |
I would go for 4a, 5a, 5b, 5a and perhaps just E1. Entertainment throughout! with Dave Wagg, Mike Davies |
| I would go for 4a, 5a, 5b, 5a and perhaps just E1. Entertainment throughout! with Dave Wagg, Mike Davies |
|||
| Hidden | 30 Apr, 2016 | AltLd | |
| neilh | 30 Apr, 2016 | - | |
| Hidden | 30 Apr, 2016 | AltLd O/S | |
| hazeysunshine | 23 Apr, 2016 | AltLd |
with Milena |
with Milena |
|||
| Tubs | 16 Apr, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
with Peter H |
with Peter H |
|||
| ads | 25 Mar, 2016 | AltLd dog | need to work on the offwidths.... |
| need to work on the offwidths.... | |||
| Ollie B | 20 Mar, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
P3,4 with W.Calvert |
| P3,4 with W.Calvert |
|||
| joedean | 18 Mar, 2016 | AltLd |
Sweet route. Pitch 3 had some spice on it. Other the that really quite chilled climbing. with ianstevens |
| Sweet route. Pitch 3 had some spice on it. Other the that really quite chilled climbing. with ianstevens |
|||
| ianstevens | 18 Mar, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
P4 and 5 with Emily Groves, joedean |
| P4 and 5 with Emily Groves, joedean |
|||
| Dave Almond | 15 Mar, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
with frost |
with frost |
|||
| frost | 15 Mar, 2016 | AltLd |
with Dave Almond |
with Dave Almond |
|||
| emgroves | ?Mar, 2016 | AltLd | |
| Climbingspike | ??, 2016 | - | |
| Hidden | ??, 2016 | - | |
| TravisDean | ??, 2016 | Lead | |
| ginger | ??, 2016 | - |
with jongupta, Nick |
with jongupta, Nick |
|||
| George_Surf | 8 Oct, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
I took p1 easy chimney. charlie p2 the moves after the corner were awkward and tricky. p3 was ok but the traverse is quite tough with very thin finger slots, right on a peg and a bomber wire though. p4 charlie led up the wide crack this was also a struggle im suprised i didnt fall out! with Pinguville |
| I took p1 easy chimney. charlie p2 the moves after the corner were awkward and tricky. p3 was ok but the traverse is quite tough with very thin finger slots, right on a peg and a bomber wire though. p4 charlie led up the wide crack this was also a struggle im suprised i didnt fall out! with Pinguville |
|||
| Pinguville | 8 Oct, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
Led p2... and p.5 final chimney pitch . george did p1 and combined 3+4 to just below the offwidth . found p1 fine , im small and fit in the gap ,(then lowered off as i dropped nut key and then approached it differently facing right towards the wall and found a much easier move) p2 was tricky and delicate up the ramp hard moves. the crux p3 i found very hard convinced i was going to come off, but held on in tiny finger jams . then led the bloody hard crack at the top , gear on left wall was somewhat reassuring . didnt make it any easier to climb tho .. all in hard if not hardest climbing ive done in a while but enjoyable ! with George_Surf |
| Led p2... and p.5 final chimney pitch . george did p1 and combined 3+4 to just below the offwidth . found p1 fine , im small and fit in the gap ,(then lowered off as i dropped nut key and then approached it differently facing right towards the wall and found a much easier move) p2 was tricky and delicate up the ramp hard moves. the crux p3 i found very hard convinced i was going to come off, but held on in tiny finger jams . then led the bloody hard crack at the top , gear on left wall was somewhat reassuring . didnt make it any easier to climb tho .. all in hard if not hardest climbing ive done in a while but enjoyable ! with George_Surf |
|||
| Andy Clarke | 10 Sep, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4. with Johnny |
| A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4. with Johnny |
|||
| tom jefferies | 9 Sep, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
had to back off before last pitch, too dark! with daniel hobbs |
| had to back off before last pitch, too dark! with daniel hobbs |
|||
| Hidden | 28 Aug, 2015 | Lead O/S | |
| VPJB | 14 Aug, 2015 | Lead |
Vegetation on pitch 4. with Lloyd |
| Vegetation on pitch 4. with Lloyd |
|||
| Postmanpat | 12 Aug, 2015 | AltLd dog | If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience….. |
| If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience….. | |||
| rushy11111918 | 30 Jul, 2015 | AltLd |
with David |
with David |
|||
| Hidden | 30 Jul, 2015 | AltLd O/S | |
| rob.grafton | 25 Jul, 2015 | AltLd |
with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith |
with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith |
|||
| Hidden | ?Jul, 2015 | AltLd O/S | |
| benkelsey | 27 Jun, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
Interesting p3 and 5 with Ollie birkhill |
| Interesting p3 and 5 with Ollie birkhill |
|||
| 9fingerjon | 7 Jun, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
with LakesWinter |
with LakesWinter |
|||
| Hidden | 7 Jun, 2015 | AltLd O/S | |
| khalidq | 27 May, 2015 | 2nd dnf |
Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time. with Dan Vaj |
| Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time. with Dan Vaj |
|||
| Dan Vaj | 27 May, 2015 | Lead O/S |
Only first two pitches then rained off with khalidq |
| Only first two pitches then rained off with khalidq |
|||
| Hidden | 23 May, 2015 | AltLd dog | |
| Hidden | 25 Apr, 2015 | AltLd O/S | |
| The Grist | 25 Apr, 2015 | AltLd O/S |
with PaulTanton |
with PaulTanton |
|||
| Hidden | 20 Apr, 2015 | 2nd | |
| Hidden | 20 Apr, 2015 | Lead O/S | |
| Dan Hale | 10 Mar, 2015 | Lead O/S |
with Dan Jones |
with Dan Jones |
|||
| r.greaves | 30 Nov, 2014 | AltLd |
with neil |
with neil |
|||
| NatCheeseman | 16 Nov, 2014 | 2nd dog |
with Brian Mead |
with Brian Mead |
|||
| Matthew Ferrier | 12 Oct, 2014 | AltLd O/S |
P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches. with franhammond92 |
| P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches. with franhammond92 |
|||
| franhammond92 | 12 Oct, 2014 | AltLd O/S |
Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice. with Matthew Ferrier |
| Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice. with Matthew Ferrier |
|||
| Ewan Russell | 28 Sep, 2014 | 2nd O/S |
Also did merlin direct before this. with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols |
| Also did merlin direct before this. with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols |
|||
| DubyaJamesDubya | ?Sep, 2014 | Lead O/S |
with Andrew Bevan |
with Andrew Bevan |
|||
| will moy | 19 Aug, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 15 Aug, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 15 Aug, 2014 | 2nd dog | |
| Hidden | 7 Aug, 2014 | 2nd | |
| Sol Armer | 7 Aug, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 5 Jul, 2014 | AltLd O/S | |
| Ewano | 13 Jun, 2014 | AltLd O/S |
P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves. with peat |
| P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves. with peat |
|||
| Hidden | 13 Jun, 2014 | AltLd | |
| Seraphic8x | ?May, 2014 | AltLd | |
| Hidden | 20 Apr, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| cpoad | 19 Apr, 2014 | Lead dog |
Was tired and eventually pulled on gear on the off-width crack on the last pitch. with Clare F |
| Was tired and eventually pulled on gear on the off-width crack on the last pitch. with Clare F |
|||
| paulerussell | 18 Apr, 2014 | 2nd dog |
Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-( with Kyle Pattinson |
| Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-( with Kyle Pattinson |
|||
| TimJ | 11 Apr, 2014 | Lead |
Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a. with Dodi |
| Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a. with Dodi |
|||
| kylo-342 | ?Apr, 2014 | Lead |
with Paul OMC |
with Paul OMC |
|||
| davebrox | ??, 2014 | - | |
| Si | ??, 2014 | - | |
| michael burrows | 12 Oct, 2013 | Lead O/S |
with rockcat |
with rockcat |
|||
| jezb1 | 24 Aug, 2013 | 2nd | Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers. |
| Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers. | |||
| Rob84 | 23 Aug, 2013 | Lead O/S |
with Rob Adie, mel_1 |
with Rob Adie, mel_1 |
|||
| Alex Riley | 20 Jul, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
with Jasper |
with Jasper |
|||
| demarcation86 | 5 Jul, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth. with pryan300 |
| Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth. with pryan300 |
|||
| woody0606 | 30 Jun, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough. with Pete |
| Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough. with Pete |
|||
| Pete_Frost | 30 Jun, 2013 | AltLd O/S | Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting. |
| Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting. | |||
| Theo Moore - UKC and UKH | 6 Jun, 2013 | AltLd RP | |
| Simonfarfaraway | 1 Jun, 2013 | AltLd |
Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still) with Little B |
| Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still) with Little B |
|||
| Little B | 1 Jun, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3 with Simonfarfaraway |
| start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3 with Simonfarfaraway |
|||
| Louis Hume | 29 May, 2013 | Lead dnf |
Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a. with Oli |
| Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a. with Oli |
|||
| MikeLeeds | 6 May, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
with Kevin Bowser |
with Kevin Bowser |
|||
| Hidden | 6 May, 2013 | AltLd O/S | |
| SteveM | 6 May, 2013 | Lead |
with kitkat78 |
with kitkat78 |
|||
| kitkat78 | 6 May, 2013 | 2nd O/S |
with SteveM |
with SteveM |
|||
| NB Pixel | 20 Apr, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings! with Megan |
| Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings! with Megan |
|||
| BenRyle | 3 Apr, 2013 | AltLd O/S |
with dan ely |
with dan ely |
|||
| jezb1 | 25 Mar, 2013 | Lead | Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp. |
| Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp. | |||
| Sol Armer | 17 Feb, 2013 | AltLd dnf | After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue... |
| After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue... | |||
| Hidden | 17 Feb, 2013 | AltLd O/S | |
| adie84 | ??, 2013 | - | |
| edmitchell | 27 Oct, 2012 | Lead O/S |
Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars with brmc members |
| Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars with brmc members |
|||
| Hidden | 27 Oct, 2012 | AltLd | |
| Hidden | 7 Aug, 2012 | AltLd | |
| danJBA | 21 Jul, 2012 | AltLd O/S |
with roberts1234567890 |
with roberts1234567890 |
|||
| roberts1234567890 | 21 Jul, 2012 | AltLd |
with danJBA |
with danJBA |
|||
| Hidden | 5 Jun, 2012 | AltLd O/S | |
| SJS | 4 Jun, 2012 | 2nd |
with Nick Russell |
with Nick Russell |
|||
| Hidden | 4 Jun, 2012 | Lead | |
| Nick Russell | 4 Jun, 2012 | Lead O/S |
I thought this felt pretty tough for VS! with SJS |
| I thought this felt pretty tough for VS! with SJS |
|||
| Hidden | 19 May, 2012 | AltLd O/S | |
| Tom Doldon | 19 May, 2012 | AltLd O/S |
with sam simpson 48 |
with sam simpson 48 |
|||
| Hidden | 28 Apr, 2012 | Lead | |
| Hidden | 15 Apr, 2012 | AltLd | |
| arandall | 7 Apr, 2012 | Lead dog |
VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack. with Wendy Watthews |
| VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack. with Wendy Watthews |
|||
| james.slater | 6 Mar, 2012 | Lead O/S |
Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops! with WillMolyneux |
| Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops! with WillMolyneux |
|||
| Owain Llewelyn | 7 Feb, 2012 | Lead |
This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful. with Dad |
| This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful. with Dad |
|||
| Hidden | ??, 2012 | - | |
| Hidden | ??, 2012 | - | |
| Lenny | 19 Nov, 2011 | 2nd O/S |
with John, Phil .N |
with John, Phil .N |
|||
| dan-8990 | 4 Oct, 2011 | AltLd |
with PR, NM |
with PR, NM |
|||
| khalidq | 17 Sep, 2011 | 2nd |
with iceaxejuggler |
with iceaxejuggler |
|||
| Hidden | 17 Sep, 2011 | Lead O/S | |
| al123 | 1 Sep, 2011 | Lead O/S |
i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree with Alex.rh |
| i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree with Alex.rh |
|||
| Hidden | 1 Sep, 2011 | AltLd O/S | |
| harold walmsley | 9 Aug, 2011 | AltLd O/S |
Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?) with Colin Struthers |
| Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?) with Colin Struthers |
|||
| Katex | 5 Aug, 2011 | AltLd O/S |
with Will, Simon Edwards |
with Will, Simon Edwards |
|||
| centurion05 | 9 Jul, 2011 | AltLd |
with Blurgy319 |
with Blurgy319 |
|||
| Blurgy319 | 9 Jul, 2011 | AltLd β |
Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today with centurion05 |
| Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today with centurion05 |
|||
| Simon Cahill | 8 Jun, 2011 | AltLd |
In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4. with David |
| In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4. with David |
|||
| carlh | 4 Jun, 2011 | - | A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales! |
| A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales! | |||
| pebbles | 29 May, 2011 | 2nd |
guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a! with midweekmountain |
| guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a! with midweekmountain |
|||
| pauldrew | 22 May, 2011 | Lead | |
| DOVEY | 12 May, 2011 | Lead |
with Loz / Maker |
with Loz / Maker |
|||
| Martin Bennett | 2 May, 2011 | - |
with NickH |
with NickH |
|||
| HIGHTOWER | 2 Apr, 2011 | Lead dnf |
Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet. with nikki_smilez |
| Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet. with nikki_smilez |
|||
| Rory Shaw | ??, 2011 | - | |
| Hidden | ??, 2011 | - | |
| PAJames | ??, 2011 | - | |
| crag_monster | 16 Oct, 2010 | AltLd |
with Leo, edpd1b |
with Leo, edpd1b |
|||
| rustaldo | 13 Oct, 2010 | AltLd O/S |
i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate.. with alasdair19 |
| i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate.. with alasdair19 |
|||
| uphillnow | 10 Oct, 2010 | AltLd |
Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a with Rik |
| Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a with Rik |
|||
| popov86 | ?May, 2010 | - | |
| popov86 | ?May, 2010 | Lead | |
| lost.arrow | 27 Mar, 2010 | Lead |
with Ian Ashworth |
with Ian Ashworth |
|||
| Hidden | 27 Mar, 2010 | AltLd dog | |
| dan-8990 | 8 Mar, 2010 | AltLd O/S |
with PB |
with PB |
|||
| beeson_paul | 6 Mar, 2010 | AltLd | |
| alasdair19 | ??, 2010 | - | |
| simeclimb68 | ??, 2010 | - | |
| sdawson1 | ??, 2010 | - |
tough little cookie with Vic Belshaw |
| tough little cookie with Vic Belshaw |
|||
| Hidden | 26 Sep, 2009 | AltLd dnf | |
| sdawson1 | 15 Jul, 2009 | AltLd |
tough climb and varied ...a gem with Martin |
| tough climb and varied ...a gem with Martin |
|||
| Skinny Kin | 27 Jun, 2009 | AltLd dog |
This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1. with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne |
| This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1. with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne |
|||
| Hidden | 21 Mar, 2009 | Lead O/S | |
| Wayne S | ?Jan, 2009 | AltLd |
with Skyfall |
with Skyfall |
|||
| Wayne S | ??, 2009 | - |
P2, P3DNF with Skyfall |
| P2, P3DNF with Skyfall |
|||
| Hidden | 21 Sep, 2008 | AltLd rpt | |
| Karlos | 21 Sep, 2008 | AltLd O/S |
I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete.
Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style! with chalk monster |
| I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete.
Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style! with chalk monster |
|||
| Hidden | 20 Sep, 2008 | AltLd | |
| jamie ward | 13 Aug, 2008 | AltLd O/S |
Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!! with Stuart Williams |
| Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!! with Stuart Williams |
|||
| rob1 | 10 Aug, 2008 | AltLd |
with Dave Williams |
with Dave Williams |
|||
| Glyn | 22 Jul, 2008 | Lead O/S |
with Trystan |
with Trystan |
|||
| caradoc | 24 May, 2008 | AltLd O/S |
with john b |
with john b |
|||
| paulpitcher | ??, 2008 | AltLd O/S |
with Deiter and Angela |
with Deiter and Angela |
|||
| paulpitchermp | ??, 2008 | AltLd | |
| Hidden | 2 Nov, 2007 | AltLd dnf | |
| Andrew Sloan | 30 Sep, 2007 | AltLd O/S |
Led final 4b pitch in big boots. with Steve Grove |
| Led final 4b pitch in big boots. with Steve Grove |
|||
| Dan 85 | 2 Jun, 2007 | AltLd O/S |
with Jonny |
with Jonny |
|||
| peter myers | ?Jun, 2007 | AltLd O/S |
with Tom Sylvester |
with Tom Sylvester |
|||
| Mick B | 5 May, 2007 | AltLd O/S |
with Matt Brennen |
with Matt Brennen |
|||
| Hidden | 21 Apr, 2007 | 2nd dnf | |
| AngelaC | 4 Apr, 2007 | AltLd |
with dpc |
with dpc |
|||
| climbingpixie | 10 Mar, 2007 | AltLd dnf |
Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water. with Shaun |
| Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water. with Shaun |
|||
| Wayne S | ??, 2007 | - | |
| tumbling wizard | 21 Oct, 2006 | Lead O/S | way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch |
| way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch | |||
| sgl0jd | ?Jul, 2006 | AltLd |
with Steve Hobbs |
with Steve Hobbs |
|||
| ritchierich | 26 Jun, 2006 | AltLd O/S |
Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch. with string arms |
| Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch. with string arms |
|||
| Hidden | 29 May, 2006 | AltLd O/S | |
| Ed Booth | 29 May, 2006 | AltLd |
with remus |
with remus |
|||
| Hidden | ??, 2006 | - | |
| mikelaing | ?Nov, 2005 | 2nd | |
| Rob Davies | 29 May, 2005 | AltLd |
Traverse seemed like good 5b - I backed off and Phil led it. think I've failed here before with Phil A |
| Traverse seemed like good 5b - I backed off and Phil led it. think I've failed here before with Phil A |
|||
| Hidden | 24 Apr, 2005 | AltLd dnf | |
| Wayne S | ?Apr, 2005 | AltLd |
with Skyfall |
with Skyfall |
|||
| nuts and bolts | ??, 2005 | AltLd | |
| babymoac | 23 Nov, 2003 | - | |
| Hammy | 6 Sep, 2003 | AltLd |
with Joe Gittens |
with Joe Gittens |
|||
| John Kettle | ??, 2003 | AltLd | |
| Neil | ??, 2003 | Lead O/S | |
| Becca_itd | 5 May, 2002 | AltLd |
with Paul at work |
with Paul at work |
|||
| Hidden | 5 May, 2002 | AltLd | |
| Hidden | 4 May, 2002 | Lead β | |
| lost.arrow | 17 Jun, 2001 | AltLd |
with Paul Palfreyman |
with Paul Palfreyman |
|||
| Just Another Dave | ??, 2001 | Lead O/S |
Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!! with Chris Bird |
| Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!! with Chris Bird |
|||
| chrishedgehog | 15 Aug, 2000 | Lead O/S |
with Joe Thompson |
with Joe Thompson |
|||
| zero six | ??, 2000 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | ??, 1999 | AltLd O/S | |
| Iain Brown | 10 May, 1998 | - |
with Ricardo |
with Ricardo |
|||
| Ched | ??, 1997 | Lead O/S |
with Glanfor |
with Glanfor |
|||
| PaulTclimbing | ?Aug, 1995 | Lead |
with JT |
with JT |
|||
| Hidden | 11 Jun, 1995 | AltLd | |
| Hidden | 30 Apr, 1994 | Lead | |
| Hidden | ??, 1993 | Lead | |
| Hidden | 27 Jun, 1992 | AltLd | |
| Hidden | ??, 1990 | AltLd | |
| ewar woowar | ??, 1987 | - | |
| nigehughes | ?Jun, 1983 | AltLd |
with Ian Maguire |
with Ian Maguire |
|||
| Paula Hamilton-Gibson | ?Jun, 1983 | Lead |
with Phillippa Mathews |
with Phillippa Mathews |
|||
| GordonHart | ??, 1982 | Lead O/S | |
| nniff | ??, 1982 | - | |
| clanger | ?Jan, 1981 | - | |
| Hidden | ?Aug, 1980 | - | |
| Hidden | 9 Apr, 1980 | Lead | |
| daviesxxx | ??, 1980 | - | |
| Ghastly Rubberfeet | ??, 1980 | Solo | |
| nickprior | 24 Aug, 1979 | AltLd |
with Len Marlowe |
with Len Marlowe |
|||
| migs493 | 6 Jul, 1979 | AltLd | |
| RichardMc | 2 May, 1976 | Lead |
with Dave Langmead |
with Dave Langmead |
|||
| Steve Lewis | 25 Feb, 1976 | AltLd O/S |
with sharpie |
with sharpie |
|||
| RichardMc | 12 Sep, 1975 | 2nd |
with Roger Everett |
with Roger Everett |
|||
| Hidden | 23 Aug, 1975 | AltLd | |
| petemeads | ??, 1975 | Lead | |
| kjacks | ??, 1975 | Lead | Ridiculous for VS at the time - the traverse was about the hardest thing I had done back then and the tree branch was a bit longer as well, the rest i found was OK. |
| Ridiculous for VS at the time - the traverse was about the hardest thing I had done back then and the tree branch was a bit longer as well, the rest i found was OK. | |||
| granitbahn | ??, 1975 | AltLd | |
| rogerskews | 4 Jul, 1973 | - |
with Keith Jenkins |
with Keith Jenkins |
|||
| RichardMc | 10 Jun, 1973 | AltLd |
with Alastair Gordon |
with Alastair Gordon |
|||
| Hidden | 12 Jun, 1972 | AltLd | |
| Rick51 | 9 Oct, 1971 | AltLd | |
| tapley | 4 Jun, 1971 | AltLd |
with Dave Hearnshaw |
with Dave Hearnshaw |
|||
| mikej | 26 May, 1970 | AltLd |
with Jerry Young |
with Jerry Young |
|||
| Hidden | 26 Jun, 1966 | Lead | |