Rockfax Description
Challenging, varied and remarkably sustained climbing. Start at an overhang capped corner 10m right of King Kong.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb the corner to the overhang (pegs) then make a difficult move up right onto the face. Follow the best rock and holds straight up the face, heading past a peg towards a conspicuous flake-crack in a white wall and some good gear. Climb the awkward flake-crack to a good ledge and bolt belay.
2) 6a, 25m. Make a difficult move off the belay ledge and then up rightwards towards a peg. Continue to a downward pointing peg in a bulge and make hard moves past a thread to reach the break under the overhang above (can be climbed on the left at 5c). Traverse right into the start of a chimney and climb up for 6m to a good belay in a cave.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb a little way up the chimney and then transfer right onto the face - very exposed. Head for a break in the vegetation above, passing a peg, and carefully scramble up the earthy bank and trees to eventually reach a belay at the base of the final headwall.
4) 5b, 10m. Gain a corner on the left from a block. Ascend the corner until just below an overhang and reach left for holds on the arete, from where some quick pulls gain the top. © Rockfax

C King (F Bennett, P Lennard May 1966, aid) May/1978.

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