90m, 4 pitches. A fantastic sustained climb, covering impressive territory at a reasonable grade. Start up the bridging corner capped by a roof, about 10 metres right of King Kong. Climb the corner, good wires and a peg, to the roof (peg) and make a difficult move right onto the face. Follow the best rock and holds more or less straight up the face, past a peg, heading towards a flake crack in a white wall. Peg belay on a ledge above the flake crack. Make a difficult move off the ledge, up and right towards a peg, and continue to a bulge with a downward pointing peg. The 6a crux follows, well protected by an in situ thread once you've got high enough to clip that. This section can be passed on the left at 5c. Traverse right into the start of the chimney and climb up for about 5 metres to a comfortable belay in a cave (ignore the deep, narrow cleft lower down the chimney, though it makes for a memorable belay if you so wish). Climb slightly up the chimney and transfer right onto the face in a sensationally exposed position. Aim for a break in the vegetation above, past a peg. Carefully scramble up the earthy section - roots and branches come in handy. Belay at the base of the final headwall. Follow either of the two crack lines in the headwall, the right hand one is 5c per the guidebook and the left hand one is 5a, with a short traverse right where vegetation blocks the way and a final layback to the top (although the 2007 guide book suggests going left at 5b (up a corner, swinging left to an arete and final mantel) rather than right).

C King (F Bennett, P Lennard May 1966, aid) May/1978

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, 2017.

Stanners 23/Jun AltLd O/S

led P1 and P2. tough first pitch, whereas a very isolated hard move on the second pitch made it feel easier than the first for me. had me eye on it for a fair few years. Great climbing, great positions, great fun!

with Tab Green
Green_t 23/Jun AltLd dog

Led p3 and p4. Some shambolic climbing from me lower down... enjoyed the more technical groove on the first pitch but came unstuck on the move round the arete. 6a move over the bulge was nails, but got it on second try.

julesmckim 22/Jun Lead O/S

Fantastic route - four good pitches. Ended up leading flake crack at top of pitch 1, pitch 2 and 4. Hard crux move was a strain on the strained finger. Enjoyed this more than King Kong

with Rob Smart
Longsufferingropeholder 21/Apr AltLd

Led pitches 1.8 (Ed stopped in the wrong place), 2 & 4. Some gear was sadly weighted in the faff. P1 crux was the hardest move on the route by miles. P2 felt more uneasy getting to the first peg than doing the "crux", which either you can reach or you can't. The infamous peg can be backed up by cams not far below. Top pitch was a spectacular, fun, wild but entirely unnecessary swing out and lock-off up to a handful of guano.

with Ed
Hidden 18/Mar 2nd dog
Hannes B 22/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

in 2pt.

with Tom
tobydunford 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Rich Holdsworth, Harry Martin
rholdswo 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome lead by Toby on P1+2 (the hard bits)

kenneM 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Paul_southgate68 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Spot of gardening but still very Out to lunch!

with Marc
Hidden 11/Jul/16 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead β
drysori 02/Jul/16 AltLd
with Duncan c
duncan 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and 3. P2 the 5c way, more direct, better protected, and more in keeping with the rest of the route.

Abi Chard 15/May/16 AltLd O/S

Top out if you go left to the arete is loose, big block about to come off.

with Ian
Tom Brierley Gore 15/May/16 Lead β

I'm calling this a flash even though i dogged it two years ago... in the dark, so i didn't actually see much. Did the 6a crux, quite committing. Awesome ending, don't chicken out and go right, it's worth it.

karenhh 15/May/16 2nd
Hidden 15/May/16 AltLd
James S 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with adam
ad111 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Samcann ??/2016 2nd
mikeski ??/2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
tim newton 08/Aug/15 AltLd β
Rachel Slater 08/Aug/15 AltLd RP

Wow, hard crux! I ended up grabbing the fixed thread as I didn't want to whip onto the upside down peg. Managed to lead the pitch clean with the gear in but still hard for an E2 crux!

evhall 04/Jul/15 AltLd dog

Fantastic route - definitely 3 stars p2+p4 used thread on p2 after a dozen attempts..

with Tim Bray
Hidden 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
Nathan Chrismas 18/Apr/15 AltLd dog

Was psyched for this but on the day found it overgrown, loose and awkward. Clean second on P1 and P3, aided the bulge on P2 and a clean lead on P4 at 5a. Not sure what all the fuss is about.

with Lucas F
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 Lead
Alex Winter 01/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Good route. Just about warm enough to wear a t-shirt. Led the first two pitches. The first is probably the hardest of the bunch (E2), with some pumpy manoeuvres to exit the roof. The crux on the second (E1) is reachy, but not too difficult once you have it sussed -- probably easier than 6a if you're 6'+ and use the right holds. Awesome exposure on the third (VS), and the last (E1) has some great jug yarding if you finish up the arete. Top stuff.

with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey 01/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Well chuffed to do this clean. Led p3&4. Was fully expecting to deploy some aid but did it fine! Found the 6a move relatively easy compared to p1 crux. Mad exposure on the last pitches. Excellent route

with Alex W
Dave Turnbull, BMC 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Tom Brierley Gore 03/Aug/14 Lead dog

This is a fantastic climb, has a very big feel to it. However, we were delayed after the first pitch. Resulting in me leading the 2nd pitch at dusk, and leading the 3rd and 4th pitch in complete darkness without a head torch or moonlight, and barely even starlight... it was fucking scary, and made it 10 times harder, certainly an experience to climb an E2 with next to zero visibility. You quite literally have to feel the rock, and never know if the gear you put in has any chance of working (and often didn't). On top of all that the atmosphere was slightly surreal as the music from some festival was bouncing around the valley with surprising volume that increased and then mixed with others as we ascended the climb. O_o a climb i will not forget! ... but don't regret :P

Hidden 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
danmullett 29/Jun/14 AltLd dog
skippington 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S


Hidden 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
CA1289 21/May/14 2nd
Connoor 21/May/14 -
NickNixon 21/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led Crux.

Andy Smallwood 21/May/14 AltLd O/S
jack1996 21/May/14 Lead

first pitch only linked to king kong on ledge

Kemics 14/May/14 AltLd β

Not really clean and didnt lead any crux sections. Having done the crux, via 5c move I pulled on the thread for a bit. Only to realise I didnt need to at all. So a cowardly point of aid. Top pitches were excellent as well, full value route. Very top of the grade? cant think of many E2s that I found harder.

with Neil
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
riddle 31/Aug/13 AltLd dog

P1, rested below the roof. Aided the lay back at the top of P1, shameful tactics. Lead P3, excellent exposure great route in all

adam 24 31/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Tough little cookie. I led pitch 2 & 4, after spending a long time trying to work out the crux move I ended up pulling on the peg to get the thread clipped. I could then do the move, but it felt utterly desperate. The thread doesn't really protect the crux as you have to make the move to reach it, relying on the poor peg. P3 had wild exposure!

gripped01 21/Aug/13 Lead

Shocker. One point of rest and aided the 6a move. Going back to climb it properly...

with Colin Scott
tom.e 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Nick Russell 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

What a great route! Varied climbing, and the exposure on p3 is awesome! The p2 crux would be a lot harder for the short... I led 1,2 and 4 (as described in 2007 guide up the corner and arete)

Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd dog
Jim Tan 09/Jun/13 AltLd
msoldn 09/Jun/13 AltLd dog

lead p1 and p3, Dave combined p2&4. end of the day, just didn't have the power to pull through crux on p1 nor on p2. Fabulous climbing throughout.

with Dave
Pete Rigby 09/Jun/13 AltLd dog
with Jim Tan
nniff 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

THe left hand variant over the bulge is much easier than straight over beneath the thread - and more in keeping with the rest of the route - 5c. If some kind soul could carry some secateurs up to prune the rose bush that's growing at the top of the last pitch I'm sure many would be grateful. A nut key wasn't really up to the job.

LJKing 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 3 and 4. Pulled on thread on 2nd pitch. Atmospheric and exciting climb. I will be back to lead pitches 1 and 2!

with Adrian Botting
stuart34 25/May/13 Lead dog

Fell off the crux on pitch two - twice

AJM 22/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led the first two pitches. Bloody awkward exiting the corner on the first, and foot popped on the second just as I got a good incut - held it all together and ploughed on upwards. Excellent fun, and in some lovely sunshine at points too.

Stone Muppet 22/May/13 AltLd

P1+2 seconded oldschool style (A0). Lead P3+4.

with am
Ollie B 18/May/13 AltLd O/S


with B.Brewer
Hidden 01/May/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
tonevert 27/Apr/13 2nd dog
Kevster 27/Apr/13 Lead

OS attempt - Failed on the 6a crux - disproportionatly tough to onsight (for the grade).

Bristoldave 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Justin T 31/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Frozen to flash pumped to pissed off followed by much swearing and a highly ungraceful retreat from a pathetic high-point of about 20' up having struggled for the best part of an hour to get that far. A very traditional climb by the looks of it. Not on my wish-list any more.

with Cherry
waynekinrade ??/2013 Lead O/S
ian d f 27/Oct/12 AltLd dog

Had a wee rest on the first pitch :(

pearson9596 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
BeccaSnowden 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3. Needed a little help to get through crux on p2 - absolutely desperate for the short, hard 6a?

with Tom
thomasadixon 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Cool climb, great first pitch and cool weirdness on the 3rd. Led 2nd and 4th, first is probably the crux overall (hard E2 5c) and I kind of think it would be a better route if you just aided past the overly hard moves on the 2nd (not that I did this of course...). Good last pitch too, totally unpolished and would be worth a star on its own (do most people skip this?).

with Becca
mikeshewring 15/Jul/12 AltLd

2nd pitch

Dean Russell 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd dog
al99 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

The route is pretty much HVS apart from 2 and a half moves. Quality climbing though!

Kris suriyo 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Chris
Chris Sansum 26/May/12 AltLd dog

Cha p1, 2, 4, Chris p2.5-3. Pulled on thread on crux. Uncomfortably hot day - feet swelled making boots agony by p4. Felt sick with the heat and didn't commit to crux on p4, so lowered and let Cha do it.

markalmack 21/Apr/12 AltLd

lead P1&2

timtimpeggy ??/2012 -
Aaron Lines 07/Oct/11 AltLd

led p1&2

quiffhanger 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Epic, again. Took up a sport climber and a (strong) beginner who'd never multi-pitched before - memorable day out for all but the 6a crux still felt nails. The third pitch gets you some of the best exposure in the valley on easy enough ground to really enjoy it.

Chubbard 21/Aug/11 Lead dog

Dogged the crux.

with Ray
shoulders 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
sharpie 12/Aug/11 AltLd rpt

37 year gap since my last ascent

with Jon
harrythegunz ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with sam
climbergg 30/Jun/11 2nd
Tim M 30/Jun/11 Lead dog

pulled on the sling p2 - shame

with Emma
Chris Sansum 14/Jun/11 AltLd dog
with James Miller
j miller 13/Jun/11 AltLd dog

beautiful have to come back and get this clean

with chris sansum
LC ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
thomb 30/Apr/11 Lead
davidgent 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

lead P2 and P4

with Joe Prinold
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
crispyboy 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with alessio
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitch three (5a). P1 very strenuos and fairly sustained. P2 the move felt easier that P1 and the traverse was very airy and exposed but on huge holds. P3 great climbing with plenty of gear but an interesting top out in some vegetation.

Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
lrandall 16/Aug/10 AltLd dog

Lead the 3rd and 4th pitches (cleanly). One rest on the rope mid crux on the first pitch and frigged the 6a move on the second pitch. A brilliant route with a awesome feeling finishing move in a truely spectacular position.

dan gibson 07/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd
nniff ?/Jun/10 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ?/Jun/10 AltLd

First 2 pitches only due to fading light

with Ned
Ed Babs 24/May/10 AltLd O/S


with Harry
irish paul 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Will [Brecon]
Didymus 07/May/10 2nd O/S

Rich led all pitches (did 5c variation of p2) and me and Nick simul-climbed as seconds both aiding the 6a variation of p2. Great exposed climbing with 2 short cruxes. 4.5 hrs in total.

with Nick, Rich
richiebongo 07/May/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
pezzerrr 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 14/Mar/10 Lead dnf

frigged the move by the peg (seemed very hard for the short, couldn't span off the good hold in the corner, smeary moves on the arete maybe?) and then fell quite far off the layback (silly boy), abbed off and went for a pint

Phil PBC ??/2010 -
simon kimber 05/Nov/09 Lead
with Sam Lewis
Hidden 30/Sep/09 2nd dog
chris wyatt 06/Sep/09 Lead

clean on-site on the understanding that it was done in the traditional manner - ie 2 points of aid ;). This is a brilliant route but it was rather hard in 2 places

with Tiger Tom
Dave Rumney 21/Jun/09 Lead

1st pitch only. Dirty, vegetated, polished and hard! 1 rest.

with Tanya Milner
Misha 14/Jun/09 AltLd dog

Brilliant route, sustained and with excellent positions. Led P1, P2 and P4, Tom did the exposed P3. Annoying had a rest on the crux of P1 which wasn't really necessary, did the rest clean. The 6a crux on P2 is pretty safe with the in situ tat and the footholds aren't particularly polished - they just aren't particularly there!

msoldn 13/May/09 AltLd

Stunning and safe climbing throughout, a total classic! Rested on insitu thread at curx on second pitch (hard 5c).

with Jason
simon kimber 03/Apr/09 Lead rpt

possibly the slowest ever ascent - 6hrs 30 mins to get up and down

with Hannah Hunt & Magic Zatorski
Hanski 03/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
quiffhanger ??/2009 Lead O/S
Paz 24/Aug/08 AltLd

Seconded the first pitch (cleanly?) in about 04/05 and backed off the second (with TS). put that right this time.

with CH
Chubbard 24/Aug/08 AltLd dog

Fantastic. Brilliant route.

with Paz
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
maybe_si 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

fan-tan-tastic!! best route in a very very long time!!

with dan gibson
dan gibson 28/Sep/07 Lead rpt
feilx 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd dog
haydng ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
dan gibson 11/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead dog
simonf ?/May/06 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches

with Simon + Chris
tonanf ??/2006 -
Circus ??/2006 Lead dog

Can't remember when. Even the year is a guess. Just know I did it at some point. Rested on the peg under the roof on pitch one after failing to find holds over the top. Fell off the crux on pitch two a few times aswell.

with Marina
Hidden ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2005 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2005 Lead O/S

p1 only

with Emma
climbergg ??/2005 2nd
Lev 14/Sep/04 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 2 & 4, grabbed a piece of insitu cord on the second pitch

with Spen
just one more 14/Sep/03 Lead
with Svenn G
tradandybrown ?/Aug/03 -
Hidden 03/Jul/03 Lead β
Hidden 05/Apr/03 AltLd
simon kimber ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Billg 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Hayden Griffiths
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Phil T
AlexRenshaw 07/Jun/98 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Roget 06/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Justin Tracey ??/1996 AltLd
with Stu Ingram
PaulTclimbing ??/1995 AltLd

Or something/someone

with Neil, Rich T
WB ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Geoff
sdht ??/1994 -
mikej 21/Aug/92 2nd
with Andy March
Hidden 10/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden 12/May/91 Lead O/S
JimR ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/89 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/89 Lead dnf
AlexRenshaw 30/Aug/87 -
with Dor? Green
Hidden 02/Nov/85 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden 14/Oct/81 -
Chris Terrey ?/May/81 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Jim Thomas, Simon Kemp
Hidden ?/Sep/79 AltLd
jon 26/Aug/79 Lead
with henry
Steve Bell ??/1979 Lead O/S
with Dave Lambert
Steve Lewis 13/Aug/78 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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