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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The wall and overlap is a quality pitch. Start just to the right of the short corner of Rebellion and climb to the overlap. Pull past the overlap on concretions and continue to a tree. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| chrishunt55 | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The hazel bush used for abseiling is pretty rotten. We climbed on past and cut left to the tree above "the phoney war". While a bit chosey this seemed much safer. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The hazel bush used for abseiling is pretty rotten. We climbed on past and cut left to the tree above "the phoney war". While a bit chosey this seemed much safer. |
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| RoFanne | 8 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Stunningly good route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stunningly good route |
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| mishabruml | 24 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Abseil tree is a bit hollow sounding but seems solid, I gave it a good shake and pull, can’t really see any signs of movement. It took me anyway and I’m a 80kg fat bastard. Also there is alternatives, if you really didn’t fancy it you could carefully scramble off right and find a better tree | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Abseil tree is a bit hollow sounding but seems solid, I gave it a good shake and pull, can’t really see any signs of movement. It took me anyway and I’m a 80kg fat bastard. Also there is alternatives, if you really didn’t fancy it you could carefully scramble off right and find a better tree |
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| Kevin_Daniel_Garvey | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Very nice. Not loads of gear, but all the holds are there when you need them and crux is protected by an in-situ thread. The abseil tree at the top of the route is looking precarious/an accident waiting to happen. No alternatives, and as others have suggested it may required a couple of lower-off bolts. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Very nice. Not loads of gear, but all the holds are there when you need them and crux is protected by an in-situ thread. The abseil tree at the top of the route is looking precarious/an accident waiting to happen. No alternatives, and as others have suggested it may required a couple of lower-off bolts. |
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| ali.scott | 8 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree that the ab bush is looking pretty dangerous. The back is quite dead/rotten. No obvious alternatives without scrambling up the choss/mud up and left. IMO a couple of bolts would make the most sense... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree that the ab bush is looking pretty dangerous. The back is quite dead/rotten. No obvious alternatives without scrambling up the choss/mud up and left. IMO a couple of bolts would make the most sense... |
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| Angus Bloomfield | 1 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Very nervous about the belay and abseil from "the bush" - not sure it's safe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very nervous about the belay and abseil from "the bush" - not sure it's safe. |
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| dinodinosaur | 25 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Replaced in-situ thread on the concretions 25/5/20 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Replaced in-situ thread on the concretions 25/5/20 |
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| DaveX | 18 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Stupidly enjoyable route. As per guidebook, low in the grade but really good fun. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Stupidly enjoyable route. As per guidebook, low in the grade but really good fun. |
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| No? Yes! | 8 May, 2019 |
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βeta: We replaced abseil tat - it was in a dangerous state and it is possible other abseil points on the cliff may have similar | ||
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Show beta
βeta: We replaced abseil tat - it was in a dangerous state and it is possible other abseil points on the cliff may have similar |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Whitt
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)