110m, 4 pitches. Absorbing and Rewarding climb. 4b,4b,4c,5a.
Start up P1 of Left Hand Route. From the belay traverse right all of the way across the North Wall in 2 pitches. From the thread on the Angel's Eye, climb down 20ft then around the arete, finish up Joe's Route.

J Willson, S Smith, N Smith 15/Mar/1975

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Lower Wye.

chris cockbain 04/Aug AltLd
Tom Draude 04/Aug AltLd O/S
andy_pemberton 03/Aug Lead

4 pitches, 4 hours!

with Steve Gibson
jameslomax 18/Jul AltLd dnf

Lead the second pitch, intended to lead fourth but wussed out of the 5a move and retraced back to the belay, then finished up the 4a pitch of the angels eye.

Rachael88 01/Jun 2nd

Very hot climb. Ended up going direct through the overhang on pitch 1

with Adam
BStar 01/Jun Lead

P1 & P2 then last pitch of nibelheim. Shame about the polish on left hand route, but the main traverse pitch is very good.

with Rachael
julesmckim 10/May AltLd O/S

Fun rambling way to spend a Wednesday morning.

with Rob Smart
evhall 14/Apr AltLd rpt


with goat
GHawksworth 11/Apr AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 4. good bit of exposure training on 2nd pitch (and 3rd pitch for barney)

BHuthers 11/Apr AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Really fun climb, some spaced gear in places...

with George
ClimberRGM ?/Feb AltLd O/S
georgeevans88 ?/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
ngreen 24/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Trevers 17/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Finished up the top pitch of Angel's Eye instead. Good route but difficult route finding on the second pitch, and some spaced protection. There is also a big loose blocky flake on pitch 2!

with BStar, Will
BStar 17/Jul/16 AltLd

P1,2,3 only. Slow progress on the first two pitches and climbing in a 3 didn't make me want to do the last pitch, will be back soon to finish it hopefully.

wjcdean 17/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Bit slow climbing as three. I lead P1, Trevs P2 and Adam lead p3 and finished up the top pitch of angels eye. Great weather. Bit of a pain with people abbing from great ledge. We thought P3 felt more like 4b

LanceSolf 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p2 & 4. Very interesting fun climb. Made more so by down climbing sections and not the easiest route finding

Hidden 11/Jul/16 AltLd
Ollie B 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

No idea where we were going rambled right wards.

with Robyn
shoulders 26/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led 1,3,4. Good rope management essential for p4. Not for those breaking into vs, . 2 star. ?

with pete lewis
Norman_P_W 02/Jun/16 AltLd

Second pitch difficult to follow, couldn't find the second peg on central route so ended up trying to go across too high with the peg you are heading for at foot level.

with Bob M
Bob M 02/Jun/16 AltLd

Led 1, 2 and 4. A fine little adventure. Pitch 4 is brilliant - superb exposure and a few tricky moves, but the in-situ gear gives excellent protection for both leader and second.

Chris Sansum 06/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

Ewan p1,3. Chris p2,4

with Ewan Whitmey
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
leo-z-g 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

With George

GHawksworth 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
matt1024 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Led p1+3. The pitch around the nose is fantastic!

Hidden 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
localboy 08/Jul/14 2nd rpt

P3 (SC) Moved off on to Angels Eye at end of pitch

with Simon C
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P2,p4. Great climb. Surely this is 4b,4b,4c,5a as per the guidebook? 5a crux was tricky. Loads of pegs.

with Iggy
squicky 04/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 3. Good fun but loses a star for all the down climbing. Crux was tough and required a bit of thinking about.

with Ben
Ian JL 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Lovelady
danieleaston 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1&3

with Saz
saz_b 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead p2 + 4. Found p1 hard this time around.

Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
felixizzy 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 & P4, didn't feel that hard for the grade, but was a fantastic outing.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Kyle87 ?/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 11/Jan/14 Lead rpt

Pitches 1-3. Got stalled by 2 Slovenians finishing The Angel's Eye (belaying on the in-situ nut), and decided to finish up the last pitch of the Angel's Eye, since it was getting dark.

with Richard Snow
poeter210 27/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
bonoid 19/Nov/13 AltLd
with Kyle87
colinthomson5 24/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

finished pitch 1 and 2

with James Cullen
saraguti 15/Sep/13 -

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. Superb

with rick sewards
eduardo 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, lack of a decent diagram in the old guidebook didn't help. Bit of route finding beta from an experienced local compenasated. Lead P1, P3, P5 (split P4 into 2 to avoid rope drag and aid communication). By the time Roger had taken a rather higher and much harder variant line on P2, the 5a pitch seemed easy. Actually, it WAS easy, only 4b? No idea where 5a comes from. P4 seemed harder (again, partly as Roger took a higher harder line), but even the on-route bit seemed like 5a.

with Roger F
Hidden 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4, RIch led P1 & 3; a great route with consistently good climbing.

Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd dnf
simonf 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4; Simon led P1 and P3.

with Simon
monsteratt 15/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Only managed first two pitches before being rained off. Scrambled to the great ledge to ab off.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 15/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

bailed due to rain after 2 pitches

ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
suffolknick 30/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

I led p 1 and 3 - awesome and adventurous climb especially pitch 4!

with clams
clams 30/Oct/12 AltLd

Led P2 and P4

with NB
McKEuan 09/Oct/12 AltLd

Awesome climb. Lead p1 and p3. Took a large whipper on pitch 4 due to wetness and I snapped a hold off :S worth it though. Brilliant climb

with Tom Adams
Bobling 22/Sep/12 AltLd

Absorbing. A summer spent on the the new quarry traverse at Avon meant none of the moves felt too hard but the situation and rope work were not trivial. Full marks to James for leading pitches 2 & 4!

with James P
Slick 22/Sep/12 2nd

Last pitch only after abanoning the last pitch of The Ring

Poco Loco 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4. What a great expedition! Lived up to my expectations. P4 had quite an interesting crux, huge rope drag by the end of the pitch.

with Robert
AndrewP 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

I lead P2 and P4. Massive rope drag on P4. 5a section was hard.

with Tim Popplestone
onlyfoddington 03/Sep/12 2nd β

Lost my leading nerve on the polished first. Naturally I wish I had lead the third pitch. Definitely did the hard part (just) on the fourth pitch.

with Steve R
crossdressingrodney 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. Found the last pitch tricky, easily felt 5a. The crux move is hard to protect for the second too, and what I did put it lifted out later.

with simon
SiyP 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

SP 1,3 OG 2,4

DorsetGareth 12/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
cornishben 12/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
PaulWatson 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Me 1, 3 Phil 2, 4. * Phweew * You know you have been on a climb after this - one of those its all there somewhere climbs, and some superb positions. p3 Different but not that hard - low 4c rather than 5a, p4 seemed more like 5a.

with Phil
demarcation86 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 05/Mar/12 AltLd
stvredmond 05/Mar/12 AltLd

led P2 and 4. quality route and a total must for anyone wanting an adventure. questionable whether there was a 5a move but some of the commitment required makes it feel harder.

Kyuzo ?/Jan/12 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

A brilliant outing.

saintlade ??/2012 -
Neil Stansbie ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Just 4c traverse pitch (for pictures) was good but dunno about the rest!

with helen
Big Lee 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

What an awesome route. Big exposure with plenty of quality climbing. Only downside was that we hit a lot of traffic coming up Angle's Eye which delayed things.

dawesbub 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Awesome climb, never felt particularly difficult but very intimidating, especially pitches 3 & 4. Down climbing was scary but a great experience.

with Big Lee
Hidden 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
gb05 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Josh lead pitch 1 and 3, I led pitch 2 and 4. Rain and lack of backroping know-how sent us up last pitch of Angel's Eye instead of 4th pitch.

with Josh Cooper
jcooper8 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 17/Jul/11 AltLd
rd20 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

RD P1 and P3

with Patrick
Different Steve 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Shaun, Guy Reid
localboy 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I lead 1, Simon lead 2 and 3. Light stopped play and so we went up 3rd pitch of angels eye and 4th pitch of right hand route.

with Simon F
iforwms 26/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Rich led second and Tim led the last two. Nearly benighted!

with Rich Harris, Tim
thomb 30/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Chris Sansum 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt

A nice adventure on quite damp rock, with Gary and Rich following us along it. Always good fun. For once we couldn't be bothered to do anything afterwards, after spending a bit of time freeing a stuck abseil rope.

with James Miller
bpmclimb 18/Oct/10 AltLd rpt
with James Lane
Didymus 12/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

The second pitch felt serious even though the climbing was easy. Not worth 3 stars. We escaped up RH route

with Nick
will_benfold 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with Emmanuel
trevor macalonan 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Rob Exile Ward 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

In the heat I thought the 1st pitch of LH Route was as hard as anything later! The guidebook makes the route sound more complicated than it actually is. The last pitch is superb, intimidating and with lots of good climbing.

with Sam Ward
Hidden 17/Mar/10 AltLd
tobyb 11/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first and second pitch,second 3rd and 4th. 4th pitch has a scary 6m down climb for second if the lead climber hasnt put any gear in untill the bottom.

Phil PBC ??/2010 2nd

followed tym, good lead, his hardest to date!!

jimmatthews ??/2010 Lead
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
j miller ??/2010 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Chris Sansum 12/Dec/09 AltLd rpt

Brian led P1 & 3, I led P2 & 4

bpmclimb 12/Dec/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
SuseH 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Karlos 10/May/09 Lead dnf

Started up Central Route as LH Route occupied. Traverse of P2 was straight forward enough. However, second slipped just after leavign belay, and took a long slow fall as the slack in the system was used up. Cuts, grazes and a bashed ankle, but otherwise okay. She was lowered to the ground, and I retrieved the gear on a top rope rope from above. Shame not to complete, but there's always next time.

with Daniela
Hidden 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
The Reaper 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
simonw1 30/Aug/08 AltLd
with Heather Lewis
Circus 31/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Dan
evhall 07/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with colin
Chris Sansum 19/May/07 Lead β

Had led most of the pitches on a previous occasion. This is a real classic, following an unlikely line across a sheer face. It feels like an adventure, with upclimbing, downclimbing, traversing, unusual rope techniques etc. A great climb for photos. The pitch which was supposedly 5a was easy! The following pitch was harder.

with Weilin Wang, Sam Read
pandalover ?/May/07 2nd O/S
with Chris
Nigel Coe 22/Apr/07 AltLd
with Dick Hanson
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden 26/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Simon Palmer ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RMC
beardy mike ??/2006 -
markfromstoke ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
fellgazelle 08/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Charles French
Hidden 29/Apr/05 AltLd
drysori ?/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

We removed a fairly sizeable block from the final pitch.

with Malcolm
Tom Heslam ??/2005 2nd β
with Ed Heslam
bpmclimb 16/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

Finished up LH Route.

with Clare & Sandy
Hidden 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S
greedo 07/Dec/03 AltLd O/S

Various ascents.

with Steve Culverhouse, Guy reid, Matt goater
BALD EAGLE 11/May/02 AltLd
with William Harding
Laramadness 09/Aug/00 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2, 4.

with JC
pezzerrr ?/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
jim_randell 19/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with MB
Hidden 07/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/89 AltLd
mikej 31/May/89 AltLd
with Robert Smith
RichardMc 19/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Geoff Dunne
Richard Weller 10/Dec/83 Lead dnf

First 2 pitches

with james eldridge
leland stamper 30/Aug/83 Lead

** only

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High HS
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Low HS
Votes cast 32
High 5b
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Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
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Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 33
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Flashed (β)
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