110m, 4 pitches. Absorbing and Rewarding climb. 4b,4b,4c,5a.
Start up P1 of Left Hand Route. From the belay traverse right all of the way across the North Wall in 2 pitches. From the thread on the Angel's Eye, climb down 20ft then around the arete, finish up Joe's Route.

J Willson, S Smith, N Smith 15/Mar/1975

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Lower Wye, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
simoncov 28 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Bee's nest immediately after the P4 crux ("at three holes") but they were happily minding their own business today (28/7/19).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bee's nest immediately after the P4 crux ("at three holes") but they were happily minding their own business today (28/7/19).
JGriffiths 14 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Large amount of bees /wasps near the crux on p4 so must be a nest nearby. Didn't get stung but is quite off-putting
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large amount of bees /wasps near the crux on p4 so must be a nest nearby. Didn't get stung but is quite off-putting
Jonno30 12 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Great route and worthy of 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route and worthy of 3 stars.
badgerjockey 7 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Tat and maillon in place at time of our visit. There is a bolt above this though. Useful for backroping the downclimb for the second.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat and maillon in place at time of our visit. There is a bolt above this though. Useful for backroping the downclimb for the second.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Etta 28 Jul 2nd Nice route, a bit scary, but luckily not too much. The traverse on P2 before the actual crux of that pitch was quite hard and committing, unless maybe I went a bit to high/low? I went a bit too far right before the descent on P4; had to go back left and ponder. The downclimbing felt exposed, but not too hard. I descended a bit too far, traversed right easily and found myself in a tricky corner. I tried to climb it, but it felt very precarious, so I reversed my moves until I went back on route. The crux looked very dusty and intimidating, but it was actually fine. The last difficulty was climbing over the bees nest, and then it was all familiar territory on Joe's route. It took us about 4 hours to do the whole thing, luckily there was nobody on North Wall today :-)
Nice route, a bit scary, but luckily not too much. The traverse on P2 before the actual crux of that pitch was quite hard and committing, unless maybe I went a bit to high/low? I went a bit too far right before the descent on P4; had to go back left and ponder. The downclimbing felt exposed, but not too hard. I descended a bit too far, traversed right easily and found myself in a tricky corner. I tried to climb it, but it felt very precarious, so I reversed my moves until I went back on route. The crux looked very dusty and intimidating, but it was actually fine. The last difficulty was climbing over the bees nest, and then it was all familiar territory on Joe's route. It took us about 4 hours to do the whole thing, luckily there was nobody on North Wall today :-)
simoncov 28 Jul Lead O/S A real outing with interest throughout. Back-roped second on P4, but had problems with rope-drag so maybe the mallion got twisted(?), worked well otherwise protecting the down-climb and the crux for both of us. Bee's nest immediately after the P4 crux but they were happily minding their own business. Super route, I found a short spicy section (4c) on the P2 traverse before the indicated "gap" step-up back left. At that P2 section going back right above the "gap" I had the peg at groin height rather than chest height, in any case nice section. P4 crux was intimidating but only low 5a IMHO. Would like to do it again if I can find a willing partner :-)
with Etta
A real outing with interest throughout. Back-roped second on P4, but had problems with rope-drag so maybe the mallion got twisted(?), worked well otherwise protecting the down-climb and the crux for both of us. Bee's nest immediately after the P4 crux but they were happily minding their own business. Super route, I found a short spicy section (4c) on the P2 traverse before the indicated "gap" step-up back left. At that P2 section going back right above the "gap" I had the peg at groin height rather than chest height, in any case nice section. P4 crux was intimidating but only low 5a IMHO. Would like to do it again if I can find a willing partner :-)
with Etta
AshBarnes 14 Jul AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1&3
Lead pitches 1&3
JGriffiths 14 Jul AltLd O/S Led pitches 2 and 4
Led pitches 2 and 4
Jonno30 12 Jul AltLd O/S Fantastic route. Led P1 and 3. First route where I wanted to be leading P4 (5a) as it seems to be more protected (less of a swing). Great route and plenty of pitons to use, almost like a sport route.
with Mat O'Toole
Fantastic route. Led P1 and 3. First route where I wanted to be leading P4 (5a) as it seems to be more protected (less of a swing). Great route and plenty of pitons to use, almost like a sport route.
with Mat O'Toole
badgerjockey 7 Jul AltLd O/S P2&4. Now that’s what I call trad! Felt like the whole route has been nabbed off a big route in the Dolomites or something. Brilliant climb, more like a voyage around Wintours. P2 felt like the crux, or maybe the hairy step right on P4 with the rope drag. Pegtastic.
with k_k
P2&4. Now that’s what I call trad! Felt like the whole route has been nabbed off a big route in the Dolomites or something. Brilliant climb, more like a voyage around Wintours. P2 felt like the crux, or maybe the hairy step right on P4 with the rope drag. Pegtastic.
with k_k
BenRyle 1 Jul AltLd O/S
with Ian Grobowski
with Ian Grobowski
Vincej 18 May AltLd
with Nevil
with Nevil
Hidden 18 May AltLd
Steve Bartle 16 May AltLd O/S I lead P1 and P3, although seconding feels like leading in places due to the lack of good gear on traverses and the long downclimb on P4. The step across crux on P4 look very far away in the half-light of dusk!
I lead P1 and P3, although seconding feels like leading in places due to the lack of good gear on traverses and the long downclimb on P4. The step across crux on P4 look very far away in the half-light of dusk!
danieleaston 16 May AltLd rpt Very little gear apart from pegs. Which sapling to head for on p2? The higher one makes sense but as it doesnt mention descending to the belay i chose the lower. Not sure what i did on p4 but the drag was awful.
Very little gear apart from pegs. Which sapling to head for on p2? The higher one makes sense but as it doesnt mention descending to the belay i chose the lower. Not sure what i did on p4 but the drag was awful.
Hidden 14 May AltLd dnf
foobar123 14 Apr AltLd O/S Led P2 and the finish up Angel's Eye as we were getting a bit cold and hungry. My first trad climbing for months, so rather slow going! A decent enough line though.
with Alex Law
Led P2 and the finish up Angel's Eye as we were getting a bit cold and hungry. My first trad climbing for months, so rather slow going! A decent enough line though.
with Alex Law
omaskrey 25 Mar AltLd O/S In the fine March sun. I led p.2. Joe linked 3 and 4 together. Interesting and bold in places, but thoroughly enjoyable!
In the fine March sun. I led p.2. Joe linked 3 and 4 together. Interesting and bold in places, but thoroughly enjoyable!
JoeCoxson 25 Mar AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3+4. Bit of a whacky line, but fine positions. Had to make a fast abseil to confront some local youths who'd decided to jettison our gear off the top of the cliff....
Led P1 and P3+4. Bit of a whacky line, but fine positions. Had to make a fast abseil to confront some local youths who'd decided to jettison our gear off the top of the cliff....
Bristol_Quornstar 7 Mar AltLd O/S
Stanners 7 Mar Lead O/S Cracking adventure in the windy drizzle showers of gloom! :D
with Alex Rhodes
Cracking adventure in the windy drizzle showers of gloom! :D
with Alex Rhodes
Hidden 3 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
alex.murray 3 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Robrossmills 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 and 4
Pitches 2 and 4
Christabel Goode 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1 and 3. Pitch 2 and 4 were very scary even seconding.
Led pitch 1 and 3. Pitch 2 and 4 were very scary even seconding.
cpoad 24 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf After the second pitch Clare didn't like traversing with not much gear so we exited up the last pitch of Right Hand Route.
with Clare F
After the second pitch Clare didn't like traversing with not much gear so we exited up the last pitch of Right Hand Route.
with Clare F
AngelaC 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd I did pitches 2 and 4 - I thought the grades were correct the only thing was the route finding was uncertain especially on pitch 2 making it feel a lot harder and fairly bold - otherwise a very enjoyable and adventurous route - thanks to other climbers on North wall who abseiling down Joes route to avoid disturbing us on 2nd pitch!!
I did pitches 2 and 4 - I thought the grades were correct the only thing was the route finding was uncertain especially on pitch 2 making it feel a lot harder and fairly bold - otherwise a very enjoyable and adventurous route - thanks to other climbers on North wall who abseiling down Joes route to avoid disturbing us on 2nd pitch!!
climbskitour 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S P.1 nice P.2 hard to find route P.3 short but nice views P.4 excellent on its every bit, after p.3 decided to revers to tree belay to rip off a page from a guide book to make sure I stayed on the route. Would love to do p.4 again.
P.1 nice P.2 hard to find route P.3 short but nice views P.4 excellent on its every bit, after p.3 decided to revers to tree belay to rip off a page from a guide book to make sure I stayed on the route. Would love to do p.4 again.
MoWalker3 28 May, 2018 - Think I went the right way on the second pitch; Up, then head for the big tree at the same level, moving up to a sapling before the final scoop. Eventually went the right way on the 4th, after climbing down to the sentry box on Joe's route. Remember to actually read the guidebook (rather then just looking at it) before doing the next bit!
with Doc
Think I went the right way on the second pitch; Up, then head for the big tree at the same level, moving up to a sapling before the final scoop. Eventually went the right way on the 4th, after climbing down to the sentry box on Joe's route. Remember to actually read the guidebook (rather then just looking at it) before doing the next bit!
with Doc
garygecko 28 May, 2018 AltLd
with Mo
with Mo
ali.scott 1 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Great fun. Pitches felt more like 4b, 4a, 4b, 5a, I'd say?
Great fun. Pitches felt more like 4b, 4a, 4b, 5a, I'd say?
WillAndrew 1 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
CasualLime 4 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1, 3 and 4. A real struggle to navigate. Getting blasted by the wind as you round the corner on the 3rd pitch, the pure bizarreness of 6-8m of down-climbing on the 4th pitch. This climb is a real beauty.
with Yaroslav
Lead pitches 1, 3 and 4. A real struggle to navigate. Getting blasted by the wind as you round the corner on the 3rd pitch, the pure bizarreness of 6-8m of down-climbing on the 4th pitch. This climb is a real beauty.
with Yaroslav
Hidden 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd G/U
AAhmed 21 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Paul Ahmed
with Paul Ahmed
chris cockbain 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Tom Draude 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
andy_pemberton 3 Aug, 2017 Lead 4 pitches, 4 hours!
with Steve Gibson
4 pitches, 4 hours!
with Steve Gibson
jameslomax 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Lead the second pitch, intended to lead fourth but wussed out of the 5a move and retraced back to the belay, then finished up the 4a pitch of the angels eye.
Lead the second pitch, intended to lead fourth but wussed out of the 5a move and retraced back to the belay, then finished up the 4a pitch of the angels eye.
Charlie Fraser 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Rachael88 1 Jun, 2017 2nd Very hot climb. Ended up going direct through the overhang on pitch 1
with BStar
Very hot climb. Ended up going direct through the overhang on pitch 1
with BStar
BStar 1 Jun, 2017 Lead P1 & P2 then last pitch of nibelheim. Shame about the polish on left hand route, but the main traverse pitch is very good.
P1 & P2 then last pitch of nibelheim. Shame about the polish on left hand route, but the main traverse pitch is very good.
Adam Bosworth ?Jun, 2017 Lead
julesmckim 10 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Fun rambling way to spend a Wednesday morning.
with Rob Smart
Fun rambling way to spend a Wednesday morning.
with Rob Smart
evhall 14 Apr, 2017 AltLd rpt P1+p3
with goat
P1+p3
with goat
GHawksworth 11 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Led 2 and 4. good bit of exposure training on 2nd pitch (and 3rd pitch for barney)
Led 2 and 4. good bit of exposure training on 2nd pitch (and 3rd pitch for barney)
BHuthers 11 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. Really fun climb, some spaced gear in places...
Led P1 and P3. Really fun climb, some spaced gear in places...
ClimberRGM ?Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
georgeevans88 ?Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
ngreen 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Trevers 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf Finished up the top pitch of Angel's Eye instead. Good route but difficult route finding on the second pitch, and some spaced protection. There is also a big loose blocky flake on pitch 2!
Finished up the top pitch of Angel's Eye instead. Good route but difficult route finding on the second pitch, and some spaced protection. There is also a big loose blocky flake on pitch 2!
BStar 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd P1,2,3 only. Slow progress on the first two pitches and climbing in a 3 didn't make me want to do the last pitch, will be back soon to finish it hopefully.
with Trevers, Will Dean
P1,2,3 only. Slow progress on the first two pitches and climbing in a 3 didn't make me want to do the last pitch, will be back soon to finish it hopefully.
with Trevers, Will Dean
wjcdean 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf Bit slow climbing as three. I lead P1, Trevs P2 and Adam lead p3 and finished up the top pitch of angels eye. Great weather. Bit of a pain with people abbing from great ledge. We thought P3 felt more like 4b
Bit slow climbing as three. I lead P1, Trevs P2 and Adam lead p3 and finished up the top pitch of angels eye. Great weather. Bit of a pain with people abbing from great ledge. We thought P3 felt more like 4b
LanceSolf 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead p2 & 4. Very interesting fun climb. Made more so by down climbing sections and not the easiest route finding
with Ski
Lead p2 & 4. Very interesting fun climb. Made more so by down climbing sections and not the easiest route finding
with Ski
Hidden 11 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Ollie B 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S No idea where we were going rambled right wards.
with Robyn
No idea where we were going rambled right wards.
with Robyn
shoulders 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led 1,3,4. Good rope management essential for p4. Not for those breaking into vs, . 2 star. ?
with pete lewis
Led 1,3,4. Good rope management essential for p4. Not for those breaking into vs, . 2 star. ?
with pete lewis
Norman_P_W 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd Second pitch difficult to follow, couldn't find the second peg on central route so ended up trying to go across too high with the peg you are heading for at foot level.
with Bob M
Second pitch difficult to follow, couldn't find the second peg on central route so ended up trying to go across too high with the peg you are heading for at foot level.
with Bob M
Bob M 2 Jun, 2016 AltLd Led 1, 2 and 4. A fine little adventure. Pitch 4 is brilliant - superb exposure and a few tricky moves, but the in-situ gear gives excellent protection for both leader and second.
Led 1, 2 and 4. A fine little adventure. Pitch 4 is brilliant - superb exposure and a few tricky moves, but the in-situ gear gives excellent protection for both leader and second.
Chris Sansum 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd rpt Ewan p1,3. Chris p2,4
with Ewan Whitmey
Ewan p1,3. Chris p2,4
with Ewan Whitmey
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
leo-z-g 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S With George
With George
GHawksworth 10 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
matt1024 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Amazing! Led p1+3. The pitch around the nose is fantastic!
with TimCul
Amazing! Led p1+3. The pitch around the nose is fantastic!
with TimCul
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
localboy 8 Jul, 2014 2nd rpt P3 (SC) Moved off on to Angels Eye at end of pitch
with raingod
P3 (SC) Moved off on to Angels Eye at end of pitch
with raingod
Cheese Monkey 4 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S P2,p4. Great climb. Surely this is 4b,4b,4c,5a as per the guidebook? 5a crux was tricky. Loads of pegs.
with squicky
P2,p4. Great climb. Surely this is 4b,4b,4c,5a as per the guidebook? 5a crux was tricky. Loads of pegs.
with squicky
squicky 4 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitches 1 and 3. Good fun but loses a star for all the down climbing. Crux was tough and required a bit of thinking about.
Pitches 1 and 3. Good fun but loses a star for all the down climbing. Crux was tough and required a bit of thinking about.
Ian JL 30 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy Lovelady
with Andy Lovelady
danieleaston 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1&3
with saz_b
Led pitches 1&3
with saz_b
saz_b 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead p2 + 4. Found p1 hard this time around.
Lead p2 + 4. Found p1 hard this time around.
Hidden 18 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
felixizzy 13 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 16 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2 & P4, didn't feel that hard for the grade, but was a fantastic outing.
with twem
Lead P2 & P4, didn't feel that hard for the grade, but was a fantastic outing.
with twem
Hidden 16 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Kyle87 ?Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 11 Jan, 2014 Lead rpt Pitches 1-3. Got stalled by 2 Slovenians finishing The Angel's Eye (belaying on the in-situ nut), and decided to finish up the last pitch of the Angel's Eye, since it was getting dark.
with Richard Snow
Pitches 1-3. Got stalled by 2 Slovenians finishing The Angel's Eye (belaying on the in-situ nut), and decided to finish up the last pitch of the Angel's Eye, since it was getting dark.
with Richard Snow
poeter210 27 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
with druss
with druss
Hidden 27 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
bonoid 19 Nov, 2013 AltLd
with Kyle87
with Kyle87
colinthomson5 24 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf finished pitch 1 and 2
with James Cullen
finished pitch 1 and 2
with James Cullen
saraguti 15 Sep, 2013 - Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. Superb
with rick sewards
Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. Superb
with rick sewards
eduardo 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route, lack of a decent diagram in the old guidebook didn't help. Bit of route finding beta from an experienced local compenasated. Lead P1, P3, P5 (split P4 into 2 to avoid rope drag and aid communication). By the time Roger had taken a rather higher and much harder variant line on P2, the 5a pitch seemed easy. Actually, it WAS easy, only 4b? No idea where 5a comes from. P4 seemed harder (again, partly as Roger took a higher harder line), but even the on-route bit seemed like 5a.
with Roger F
Great route, lack of a decent diagram in the old guidebook didn't help. Bit of route finding beta from an experienced local compenasated. Lead P1, P3, P5 (split P4 into 2 to avoid rope drag and aid communication). By the time Roger had taken a rather higher and much harder variant line on P2, the 5a pitch seemed easy. Actually, it WAS easy, only 4b? No idea where 5a comes from. P4 seemed harder (again, partly as Roger took a higher harder line), but even the on-route bit seemed like 5a.
with Roger F
Hidden 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2 & 4, RIch led P1 & 3; a great route with consistently good climbing.
with Nelcboy
Led P2 & 4, RIch led P1 & 3; a great route with consistently good climbing.
with Nelcboy
mattc 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd dnf
simonf 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4; Simon led P1 and P3.
with raingod
Led P2 and P4; Simon led P1 and P3.
with raingod
monsteratt 15 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf Only managed first two pitches before being rained off. Scrambled to the great ledge to ab off.
with Nick Whimster
Only managed first two pitches before being rained off. Scrambled to the great ledge to ab off.
with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 15 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf bailed due to rain after 2 pitches
bailed due to rain after 2 pitches
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
suffolknick 30 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S I led p 1 and 3 - awesome and adventurous climb especially pitch 4!
with clams
I led p 1 and 3 - awesome and adventurous climb especially pitch 4!
with clams
clams 30 Oct, 2012 AltLd Led P2 and P4
Led P2 and P4
McKEuan 9 Oct, 2012 AltLd Awesome climb. Lead p1 and p3. Took a large whipper on pitch 4 due to wetness and I snapped a hold off :S worth it though. Brilliant climb
with Tom Adams
Awesome climb. Lead p1 and p3. Took a large whipper on pitch 4 due to wetness and I snapped a hold off :S worth it though. Brilliant climb
with Tom Adams
Bobling 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd Absorbing. A summer spent on the the new quarry traverse at Avon meant none of the moves felt too hard but the situation and rope work were not trivial. Full marks to James for leading pitches 2 & 4!
with James P
Absorbing. A summer spent on the the new quarry traverse at Avon meant none of the moves felt too hard but the situation and rope work were not trivial. Full marks to James for leading pitches 2 & 4!
with James P
Slick 22 Sep, 2012 2nd Last pitch only after abanoning the last pitch of The Ring
Last pitch only after abanoning the last pitch of The Ring
Poco Loco 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4. What a great expedition! Lived up to my expectations. P4 had quite an interesting crux, huge rope drag by the end of the pitch.
with Bobling
Led P2 and P4. What a great expedition! Lived up to my expectations. P4 had quite an interesting crux, huge rope drag by the end of the pitch.
with Bobling
AndrewP 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S I lead P2 and P4. Massive rope drag on P4. 5a section was hard.
with Tim Popplestone
I lead P2 and P4. Massive rope drag on P4. 5a section was hard.
with Tim Popplestone
onlyfoddington 3 Sep, 2012 2nd β Lost my leading nerve on the polished first. Naturally I wish I had lead the third pitch. Definitely did the hard part (just) on the fourth pitch.
Lost my leading nerve on the polished first. Naturally I wish I had lead the third pitch. Definitely did the hard part (just) on the fourth pitch.
crossdressingrodney 14 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2 and 4. Found the last pitch tricky, easily felt 5a. The crux move is hard to protect for the second too, and what I did put it lifted out later.
with simon
Led pitches 2 and 4. Found the last pitch tricky, easily felt 5a. The crux move is hard to protect for the second too, and what I did put it lifted out later.
with simon
SiyP 14 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S SP 1,3 OG 2,4
SP 1,3 OG 2,4
DorsetGareth 12 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
cornishben 12 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
PaulWatson 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Me 1, 3 Phil 2, 4. * Phweew * You know you have been on a climb after this - one of those its all there somewhere climbs, and some superb positions. p3 Different but not that hard - low 4c rather than 5a, p4 seemed more like 5a.
with Phil
Me 1, 3 Phil 2, 4. * Phweew * You know you have been on a climb after this - one of those its all there somewhere climbs, and some superb positions. p3 Different but not that hard - low 4c rather than 5a, p4 seemed more like 5a.
with Phil
demarcation86 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 2012 AltLd
stvredmond 5 Mar, 2012 AltLd led P2 and 4. quality route and a total must for anyone wanting an adventure. questionable whether there was a 5a move but some of the commitment required makes it feel harder.
led P2 and 4. quality route and a total must for anyone wanting an adventure. questionable whether there was a 5a move but some of the commitment required makes it feel harder.
Kyuzo ?Jan, 2012 -
alan moore ??, 2012 - A brilliant outing.
A brilliant outing.
saintlade ??, 2012 -
Neil Stansbie ??, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 23 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 14 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Just 4c traverse pitch (for pictures) was good but dunno about the rest!
with hms
Just 4c traverse pitch (for pictures) was good but dunno about the rest!
with hms
Big Lee 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S What an awesome route. Big exposure with plenty of quality climbing. Only downside was that we hit a lot of traffic coming up Angle's Eye which delayed things.
What an awesome route. Big exposure with plenty of quality climbing. Only downside was that we hit a lot of traffic coming up Angle's Eye which delayed things.
dawesbub 21 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Awesome climb, never felt particularly difficult but very intimidating, especially pitches 3 & 4. Down climbing was scary but a great experience.
with Big Lee
Awesome climb, never felt particularly difficult but very intimidating, especially pitches 3 & 4. Down climbing was scary but a great experience.
with Big Lee
Naomi Havercroft 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
gb05 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Josh lead pitch 1 and 3, I led pitch 2 and 4. Rain and lack of backroping know-how sent us up last pitch of Angel's Eye instead of 4th pitch.
with Josh Cooper
Josh lead pitch 1 and 3, I led pitch 2 and 4. Rain and lack of backroping know-how sent us up last pitch of Angel's Eye instead of 4th pitch.
with Josh Cooper
jcooper8 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd
rd20 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S RD P1 and P3
RD P1 and P3
Different Steve 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Shaun, Guy Reid
with Shaun, Guy Reid
localboy 2 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S I lead 1, Simon lead 2 and 3. Light stopped play and so we went up 3rd pitch of angels eye and 4th pitch of right hand route.
with simonf
I lead 1, Simon lead 2 and 3. Light stopped play and so we went up 3rd pitch of angels eye and 4th pitch of right hand route.
with simonf
iforwms 26 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Led first pitch. Rich led second and Tim led the last two. Nearly benighted!
with Rich Harris, TimPerkin
Led first pitch. Rich led second and Tim led the last two. Nearly benighted!
with Rich Harris, TimPerkin
thomb 30 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Chris Sansum 7 Nov, 2010 Lead rpt A nice adventure on quite damp rock, with Gary and Rich following us along it. Always good fun. For once we couldn't be bothered to do anything afterwards, after spending a bit of time freeing a stuck abseil rope.
with James Miller
A nice adventure on quite damp rock, with Gary and Rich following us along it. Always good fun. For once we couldn't be bothered to do anything afterwards, after spending a bit of time freeing a stuck abseil rope.
with James Miller
bpmclimb 18 Oct, 2010 AltLd rpt
with James Lane
with James Lane
Didymus 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S The second pitch felt serious even though the climbing was easy. Not worth 3 stars. We escaped up RH route
with Nick
The second pitch felt serious even though the climbing was easy. Not worth 3 stars. We escaped up RH route
with Nick
will_benfold 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3
with Emmanuel
Led pitches 1 and 3
with Emmanuel
trevor macalonan 22 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
Rob Exile Ward 16 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S In the heat I thought the 1st pitch of LH Route was as hard as anything later! The guidebook makes the route sound more complicated than it actually is. The last pitch is superb, intimidating and with lots of good climbing.
with Sam Ward
In the heat I thought the 1st pitch of LH Route was as hard as anything later! The guidebook makes the route sound more complicated than it actually is. The last pitch is superb, intimidating and with lots of good climbing.
with Sam Ward
Hidden 17 Mar, 2010 AltLd
tobyb 11 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead first and second pitch,second 3rd and 4th. 4th pitch has a scary 6m down climb for second if the lead climber hasnt put any gear in untill the bottom.
Lead first and second pitch,second 3rd and 4th. 4th pitch has a scary 6m down climb for second if the lead climber hasnt put any gear in untill the bottom.
Phil PBC ??, 2010 2nd followed tym, good lead, his hardest to date!!
followed tym, good lead, his hardest to date!!
jimmatthews ??, 2010 Lead
Fred_Richard ??, 2010 Lead
j miller ??, 2010 -
Phil PBC ??, 2010 -
Chris Sansum 12 Dec, 2009 AltLd rpt Brian led P1 & 3, I led P2 & 4
Brian led P1 & 3, I led P2 & 4
bpmclimb 12 Dec, 2009 AltLd rpt
Hidden 23 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
SuseH 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Karlos 10 May, 2009 Lead dnf Started up Central Route as LH Route occupied. Traverse of P2 was straight forward enough. However, second slipped just after leavign belay, and took a long slow fall as the slack in the system was used up. Cuts, grazes and a bashed ankle, but otherwise okay. She was lowered to the ground, and I retrieved the gear on a top rope rope from above. Shame not to complete, but there's always next time.
with Daniela
Started up Central Route as LH Route occupied. Traverse of P2 was straight forward enough. However, second slipped just after leavign belay, and took a long slow fall as the slack in the system was used up. Cuts, grazes and a bashed ankle, but otherwise okay. She was lowered to the ground, and I retrieved the gear on a top rope rope from above. Shame not to complete, but there's always next time.
with Daniela
Rob84 26 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Rouse
with Lucy Rouse
The Reaper 2 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
simonw1 30 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Circus 31 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Dan
with Dan
evhall 7 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with colin
with colin
Chris Sansum 19 May, 2007 Lead β Had led most of the pitches on a previous occasion. This is a real classic, following an unlikely line across a sheer face. It feels like an adventure, with upclimbing, downclimbing, traversing, unusual rope techniques etc. A great climb for photos. The pitch which was supposedly 5a was easy! The following pitch was harder.
with Weilin Wang, Sam Read
Had led most of the pitches on a previous occasion. This is a real classic, following an unlikely line across a sheer face. It feels like an adventure, with upclimbing, downclimbing, traversing, unusual rope techniques etc. A great climb for photos. The pitch which was supposedly 5a was easy! The following pitch was harder.
with Weilin Wang, Sam Read
pandalover ?May, 2007 2nd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Nigel Coe 22 Apr, 2007 AltLd
with Dick Hanson
with Dick Hanson
Stone Muppet ??, 2007 -
Hidden 26 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
Simon Palmer ?Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with RMC
with RMC
beardy mike ??, 2006 -
markfromstoke ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
fellgazelle 8 May, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Charles French
with Charles French
Hidden 29 Apr, 2005 AltLd
Wil Treasure ?Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S We removed a fairly sizeable block from the final pitch.
with Malcolm
We removed a fairly sizeable block from the final pitch.
with Malcolm
Tom Heslam ??, 2005 2nd β
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
bpmclimb 16 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S Finished up LH Route.
with Clare & Sandy
Finished up LH Route.
with Clare & Sandy
Hidden 10 Jun, 2004 Lead
Hidden 1 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
greedo 7 Dec, 2003 AltLd O/S Various ascents.
with Steve Culverhouse, Guy reid, Matt goater
Various ascents.
with Steve Culverhouse, Guy reid, Matt goater
Dave Cundy ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Christian Saxtoft
with Christian Saxtoft
BALD EAGLE 11 May, 2002 AltLd
with William Harding
with William Harding
Laramadness 9 Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 2, 4.
with JC
Lead pitches 2, 4.
with JC
Iain Brown 31 May, 1999 -
with Gerdy
with Gerdy
pezzerrr ?Jun, 1997 AltLd O/S
jim_randell 19 Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
with MB
with MB
Hidden 7 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 1989 AltLd
mikej 31 May, 1989 AltLd
with Robert Smith
with Robert Smith
RichardMc 19 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
with Geoff Dunne
with Geoff Dunne
Richard Weller 10 Dec, 1983 Lead dnf First 2 pitches
with james eldridge
First 2 pitches
with james eldridge
leland stamper 30 Aug, 1983 Lead ** only
** only
Dave Garnett 21 May, 1983 AltLd O/S
with Rick Graham
with Rick Graham
Brian Wilderspin 1 May, 1981 AltLd O/S
104 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set