Rockfax Description
A contrived but interesting addition to link the top of the Dervish slab to the next levels, used to make The East Face of Vivian possible from bottom to top (p.ยงยงยง). Walk along the ledge leftwards from the Dervish belay, making sure no one is below you, to below the first bolt. Climb up a vague crack past two bolts and a 1.5 cam to reach a two-bolt lower-off. When doing the link you can 'swing' from here to the next level. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Allows continuation from top of Dervish slab to Ritter Sport level- not worth doing in its own right.
From the Dervish belay, carefully move left through the loose scree being careful not to dislodge any onto persons below, until below the first bolt. Technical and slightly snappy climbing gains 2 bolts, 1.5 cam slot and lower off, or traverse onto Ritter Sport level and a block belay a long way back.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
danieljames123 17 Apr Lead garbage route. oddly bolted (not trivial to exit the bramble-scree slope and get to the bolt). finished with traverse on loose rock rather than swinging
garbage route. oddly bolted (not trivial to exit the bramble-scree slope and get to the bolt). finished with traverse on loose rock rather than swinging
rachelpearce01 5 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
George_Surf 5 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S The climbing is alright but the whole thing is pretty horrendous. 30ft bash up the narrow scree/gorse ramp leads to the start. A few moves to get to the bolt but it's hard to clip and if you come off you might end up going down the Dervish. After that is ok but the traverse left on to the Ritter sport level is loose. No belays so had to walk way back to the rubble
The climbing is alright but the whole thing is pretty horrendous. 30ft bash up the narrow scree/gorse ramp leads to the start. A few moves to get to the bolt but it's hard to clip and if you come off you might end up going down the Dervish. After that is ok but the traverse left on to the Ritter sport level is loose. No belays so had to walk way back to the rubble
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
foostu4 1 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with mjpr
with mjpr
neal 25 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S East Face of Vivian link up. Nice moves, shame about the brambles.
with Dan
East Face of Vivian link up. Nice moves, shame about the brambles.
with Dan
LBrown 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
williap 7 May, 2017 2nd
with LBrown
with LBrown
JendeHoxar 22 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 22 Jan, 2017 2nd
BRoe 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Millard
with Millard
BenRyle 31 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ian Grobowski, CharlotteMilner
with Ian Grobowski, CharlotteMilner
The Grist 30 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Mike505 25 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S After traversing death scree (fortunately held in place by brambles) I lassoed the first bolt as the pitch looked loose in places, once on route it feels pretty good and refreshingly unpolished. A few holds are a little friable and if you're topping out there's a loose block to watch out for just left of the lower offs.
with Adam J
After traversing death scree (fortunately held in place by brambles) I lassoed the first bolt as the pitch looked loose in places, once on route it feels pretty good and refreshingly unpolished. A few holds are a little friable and if you're topping out there's a loose block to watch out for just left of the lower offs.
with Adam J
adie84 8 Aug, 2016 -
Mark Young 22 Jul, 2016 -
with Stu
with Stu
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
AJ007 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Clama 30 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
shed_hed 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S To get the full experience of this pitch you really have to lead it! Running it out up a scree and spiky gorse filled gully for 20ft before you get to the start of the climbing, then have the crux moves on friable rock to do before getting to the first bolt (and first bit of gear). Then 3 or 4 good moves on good rock before coming across suspect rock again. I decided to do a nerve wracking traverse left underneath the belay on crumbly rock because there looked like a large very loose block barring the way upwards to the belay. Ended up traversing high and rightwards back off the next level to get to the belay and belay Dougie and Claudia across before dismantling the belay and being waist belayed back to the ledge! Do not seek this out by itself, its only a means to gain the final level during the big link up!
with Claudia, dswansonlow
To get the full experience of this pitch you really have to lead it! Running it out up a scree and spiky gorse filled gully for 20ft before you get to the start of the climbing, then have the crux moves on friable rock to do before getting to the first bolt (and first bit of gear). Then 3 or 4 good moves on good rock before coming across suspect rock again. I decided to do a nerve wracking traverse left underneath the belay on crumbly rock because there looked like a large very loose block barring the way upwards to the belay. Ended up traversing high and rightwards back off the next level to get to the belay and belay Dougie and Claudia across before dismantling the belay and being waist belayed back to the ledge! Do not seek this out by itself, its only a means to gain the final level during the big link up!
with Claudia, dswansonlow
JamesWilliams 28 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with Bren
with Bren
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 2nd
spidermonkey09 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S An experience! Felt like alpinism with the bold moves off the scree. Hard and snappy climbing but new bolts and enjoyable.
An experience! Felt like alpinism with the bold moves off the scree. Hard and snappy climbing but new bolts and enjoyable.
Hidden 30 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Voting
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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