UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden and there are old signs on approach indicating no climbing.

17m.

Rockfax Description
Roche Rock's finest climb. Start at a wide crack which curves to the left at mid-height. Climb the crack to a corner where the rock steepens. Bridge up the corner and pull steeply up right, using good holds into a niche. Move up the crack on the right to easier ground and finish leftwards. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Currently (12.07.17) a bees nest in the niche on Porky's - beware!

The direct variation of Moping Owl. Start as for Moping Owl, and climb the crack directly for 15ft, then the short corner and overhang above by pulling directly into the groove. Follow this and the short slab to the top of the buttress.

R Lambourne & M Dunning 27/Jun/1974.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , South West Classic VS's , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fraser kid 30 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route and so much better than it looks. There’s a difference between a committing route and a bold one. Thanks to the great gear and the fact you can place above your head on the crux, this is NOT a bold route, but it definitely has a committing move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route and so much better than it looks. There’s a difference between a committing route and a bold one. Thanks to the great gear and the fact you can place above your head on the crux, this is NOT a bold route, but it definitely has a committing move.
BuzyG 4 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route.

Logged Ascents

806 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Roche Rock

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 71 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 81
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
South Face Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Chair Ladder)

Loading Notifications...