Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Rockfax Description
A very popular climb that provides a rewarding way up the crag and into the ruined tower. Start below the wide corner-crack.
Climb the corner and then move out above the right wall past a small patch of gorse to a crack that leads back left to a point where a finish can be made between two summit blocks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start 20ft left of the chapel ladder and climb to the top of the smaller rock to good holds on the buttress. The left hand of two narrow grooves at 15ft is followed up and around to emerge high on the south face where a 15ft traverse left leads to a crack which slants back right and leads to the top. Variation: Climb direct to top instead of traversing.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| OlieWhiting | 14 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Blue cam fits perfectly at top under a boulder for an anchor point. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Blue cam fits perfectly at top under a boulder for an anchor point. |
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| Fraser kid | 30 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: The photo on here is wrong. I think it’s a variation of south east buttress. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The photo on here is wrong. I think it’s a variation of south east buttress. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roche Rock
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Alison Rib
Grade: D ***
(Bosigran)