Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of Perception at a narrow corner that leads to the overhang.
Climb the narrow corner easily to the overhangs. Step right to a very slim corner and make a perplexing move to a big pocket up on the right just above the overhang. Stand in the pocket and reach a left-leaning break above that is followed to a point where it is possible to access a line of weakness running back rightwards to the top. If the upper wall is vegetated, move left to ledges at the end of the left-leaning break and scramble up the ridge to the belay. © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Culm/Devon options , Road to lundy
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jimbonfire | 17 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great moves to the pocket, quite spicy immediately after, shame it’s all over once on the flakes system. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great moves to the pocket, quite spicy immediately after, shame it’s all over once on the flakes system. |
||||
| blahblahblah | 22 Aug, 2009 |
Show βeta
βeta: a couple of hard moves traversing under the overlap and to get over it ... nice route though | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: a couple of hard moves traversing under the overlap and to get over it ... nice route though |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Last Exit to Torquay
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)