Rockfax Description
Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of Perception at a narrow corner that leads to the overhang.
Climb the narrow corner easily to the overhangs. Step right to a very slim corner and make a perplexing move to a big pocket up on the right just above the overhang. Stand in the pocket and reach a left-leaning break above that is followed to a point where it is possible to access a line of weakness running back rightwards to the top. If the upper wall is vegetated, move left to ledges at the end of the left-leaning break and scramble up the ridge to the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Baggy point road to ruins HVS.


ClimberDateStyle
J.A.Thomson 13/Aug 2nd rpt
with vince
Vinnyb 13/Aug Lead dog

to long trying to find the foot hold at the brake final slipped and rested on the rope with the small but obvious foot placement obvious!!! Will be a tea leaf and pick the pocket in one go next time!!! I hope

LoneDeranger 13/Jul 2nd
with Dom
Dominic Acland 13/Jul Lead

Great trip!

with Daniel Frean
Euan Todd 01/Jul Lead O/S

Steady at the bottom, and getting to the pocket was straightforward. However, found the moves after this (left trending crack) pretty tricky - balancey, and not as well-protected as I'd hoped. Had to try pretty hard on 2 or 3 delicate moves with big-ish fall potential. Moves were really cool though!

ewanthomson 26/Jun Lead
with Kimberly Jarrad
Hidden 25/Jun 2nd
J.A.Thomson 22/Jun Lead rpt
with vince
Vinnyb 22/Jun 2nd O/S
with JA
Hidden 26/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Apr -
MoWalker3 09/Apr -

definitely take care to avoid the thin flake near the top, all the big flakes are a bit hollow and gear should probably be put in the main face instead.

HannahC 08/Apr 2nd
with Aidan
G Weatherley 25/Mar 2nd
with Ed Walker
Hidden 24/Feb Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Jan Lead O/S
jamesb101 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S
Stroppy 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Bevan
Lizard Ollie 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Sloppy rope work led to infertility-inducing rope drag at the top but the pitch itself was very nice. Mini dyno off a smear to get the pocket

Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 30/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with JakeB.
DredStripe 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Cusco
TomJ 23/Jul/16 2nd
with derico
derico 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Jordan
sheelba 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Resorted to a little dyno for the pocket, definitely easier for the tall

with Legs
Legs 20/Jul/16 2nd
with Sam
JackM92 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A few tricky moves, although gear is excellent where required.

AngelaC 02/Jul/16 2nd
with Alix, Rick Sewards
Sam O'Rourke 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
elewis96 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Rhys Deane ?/Jun/16 -
J.A.Thomson 28/Feb/16 2nd
with jack
Ben1983 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Ian Miller 25/Sep/15 2nd
Cheese Monkey 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic. Eyed up the pocket and decided to go for the lunge. Well good. Direct finish was fine too and nice

with Ian M
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Juan S 15/Aug/15 2nd

Fun leap to get to the pocket. Was glad I was seconding this!

with Wei
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead
tom.ben 25/Jul/15 2nd β
timreynolds 25/Jul/15 Lead
with Tommasso Benacchio
cem 19/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
dbrooks 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

exciting route, tough for HVS... would be harder for the short, I expect

pimpy 18/Jul/15 2nd
with Paddy
J.A.Thomson 09/Jul/15 TR rpt
andrewmc 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

With alternative finish to the left a la Rockfax due to wanting to stay away from the loose death block at the top.

phil456 04/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Graham M
J.A.Thomson 21/May/15 TR rpt
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Sep/14 Lead
ian d f 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
spragglerocks 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt
JonHarvey 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nickstephens 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Not so much vegetation, but large loose blocks on the right-tending exit ramp to finish. Surprised they didn't go during the storms earlier in this year considering how much they were moving.

gg4419 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
BelayBunney 22/Sep/13 Lead dog

Couldn't figure out the move into the pocket. Wasn't till I sat in that I saw the little dimple on the blank wall for my foot..... The second part of the climb (traverse left after the pocket) is quite thin with sparse protection. Found it to be harder than HVS... Still a very nice climb.

Bryan M 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Pero
Pero 25/Aug/13 Lead
dprctr 10/Aug/13 2nd β

Brilliant crux section which does have a no hands rest. Good quality sequence.

rd20 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with David P
Mr Tickle 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Tough crux, but really good gear.

with davenev
davenev 03/Mar/13 2nd
with luke
Ed morris 13/Jan/13 2nd O/S
with Colin
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead
mike hooper 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with richard hudson
Jams Crwca 21/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Started to rain right when I was on the crux. Abd off piece of gear, left for the next pick-pocketer!

with Craig
alastairbegley 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

fantastic climb, loved every minute of it bar the last few meters over vegetated ground

peter.ravenscroft27 26/Aug/12 Lead
with Dad
ripper 11/Aug/12 2nd
jon_gill1 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Start at the next left facing corner after doors of perception.The first time i lead this i started on the rigth facing corner just after door of perception and i do think that should be a E1

with Dan
Chad123 04/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

excellent climb, with a couple of fun 5b moves, so tough for grade, plenty of bomber gear though.....

with Zoe
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 29/Jul/12 2nd
tim exley 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

i swear this never happened, but my logbook, and pete, says otherwise.

timdi ?/Jun/12 Lead
BDA - changed 13/Mar/12 2nd
Tom Seccombe 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Jack Curtin
alan moore ??/2012 -
ollie_e ?/Dec/11 Lead

Awesome, took over the lead after Chris took a lob from the crux. Did the crux then for some inexplicable reason traversed into the crux of the route to the left and did that too! Didn't see any holds to continue Pickpocket I guess. Finished up the same line after that.

ollie_e 26/Nov/11 Lead β
with Chris
Hidden 26/Nov/11 2nd
MGrock 18/Sep/11 AltLd
AJH 29/Aug/11 Lead dog

took ages to figure out the move to the pocket, got cramp, rested and then did it clean

with Rob
James Oswald 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant, really technical crux - required full committment to it. A horrible loose upper half. Got a little scared in the middle.

with Chris White
timstyles 14/Aug/11 2nd β

Top half was not too vegetated.

jon bradley 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

Good climb - annoyed that I sat on the crux

with Tim Styles
Kevster 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/11 2nd
coombs 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ybot Htulk 30/Jan/11 Lead

Just about caught the pocket as my foot shot off. Hard (for me) but good gear.

with Jez
jezb1 30/Jan/11 2nd

no dyno needed.... very nice route, delicate traverse.

Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd O/S
crispyboy 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

slightly wandering line could easily be more direct, but still a lot of fun!

with phil j, denzel
misterb ??/2011 Lead O/S

fun dyno

with wain
James Oswald ??/2011 -

Brilliant, really technical crux - required full committment to it. A horrible loose upper half.

Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead β
Steve Woollard 07/Nov/10 Lead

Definitely harder than Midnight Cowboy or Sexilegs

with Lou Reynolds
brian watson 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with neil weymouth
Owen W-G 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant dyno crux to reach the juggy pocket. Interest maintained after, good gear, really enjoyable.

with Matt B
Matt77 26/Sep/10 2nd
with Owen
culmclimberRob 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Dawlish 17/Sep/10 Lead

couple of slips from crux wihle finding the right foot placement to step up

with steve
Sophie Nunn 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Floris
jtree03 28/Aug/10 Lead
with dazza
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
RagingPuffin 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Claire
lrandall 15/Aug/10 2nd

Brilliant slab / face climbing at the grade. A really enjoyable crux, but it doesn't let up there!

Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead
mike.moss ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Steerpike 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James
Bristoldave 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Dyno-ed the tricky move!

with douglas
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Anna duckett ??/2008 2nd
with Dave King
Hidden 28/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/07 Lead
The Jazz Butcher 03/Aug/07 -
with Toby
Marti999 03/Aug/07 2nd O/S
John Kettle ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
alaan 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Aly
John Lisle ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S
adrianj 28/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Good fun, well protected, one delicatish move but not hard. Worth a star or two.

Daniel Wrightson 08/Jul/06 Lead
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/04 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 14/Aug/04 2nd dog
petebale2000 21/Jul/04 TR rpt
Chad123 ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd
Mark Collins 13/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Mark Watson
Hidden 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
cem 29/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Lepista 02/Sep/00 Lead O/S

With Gill

Hidden ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
chris sm 05/Oct/97 Lead O/S
with Dom Goodridge
andy_pemberton ?/Sep/97 Lead
with Claudia Birmen
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Lead
colin milton 20/Aug/95 2nd
with eric milton
tracyclimber 16/Jul/95 2nd
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
tompercy 20/Nov/93 Lead
with Rich Bull
Rob Davies 28/Aug/93 Lead

We had retreated from a very wet Switzerland to sunny Devon

with Roy Lindsay
Hidden 02/Aug/93 -
sdht ??/1993 -
Derek Ryden ?/Nov/92 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Hidden 04/Nov/90 Lead O/S
Andy Say 01/Nov/89 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/89 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jan/88 Lead O/S
with Alan Pow
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
eroica64 23/Aug/86 2nd
with Denis Crampton
Hidden 05/Jan/85 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Oct/84 Lead O/S
Ena ?/Jun/83 2nd

Early start

with Martin Trouse
Simon cook ?/Jun/82 -
jon 15/Nov/81 Lead
with Elaine
The Reaper 23/Aug/81 AltLd
mark-abz 07/Dec/80 Lead
with Brian W
Mike C 08/Jun/80 2nd
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 08/Apr/78 Lead rpt
with Gary
Steve Lewis 27/Apr/77 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set