6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A harder alternative to the more popular Via Myriam, which shares the first two pitches before continuing direct up the face.
Start at the pronounced corner as for Via Myriam.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge. Shared with Via Myriam.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for the next corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Via Myriam branches left here. Instead, step right then follow the vague arete for a few metres to a good bolted stance.
3) VI+, 20m. Traverse left for 8m following a horizontal crack then climb direct just left of the arete.
4) V-, 20m. Move diagonally left to a good stance on a ledge.
5) VI-, 30m. Climb direct for 20m then move right to a possible belay. Follow two successive pale cracks leftwards to a stance on a ledge.
6) III, 30m. Move left from the belay, climb a short slab then cross over a gully. Continue left then back right in a second short gully to exit just below the summit. The original finish to Via Myriam joins here. Move up left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A harder alternative to the more popular Via Myriam, which shares the first two pitches before continuing direct up the face.
Start at the pronounced corner as for Via Myriam.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the polished wall direct taking a slight deviation at 10m round a bulge. Follow the wall direct for another 15m until you reach an equipped belay on a large ledge. Shared with Via Myriam.
2) IV+, 35m. Step right heading for the next corner. Climb the short corner with interest, exiting left at the top. Via Myriam branches left here. Instead, step right then follow the vague arete for a few metres to a good bolted stance.
3) VI+, 20m. Traverse left for 8m following a horizontal crack then climb direct just left of the arete.
4) V-, 20m. Move diagonally left to a good stance on a ledge.
5) VI-, 30m. Climb direct for 20m then move right to a possible belay. Follow two successive pale cracks leftwards to a stance on a ledge.
6) III, 30m. Move left from the belay, climb a short slab then cross over a gully. Continue left then back right in a second short gully to exit just below the summit. The original finish to Via Myriam joins here. Move up left to the top.
FA. Dimai, Degasper, Gherdina, Verzi 1933

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
treesrockice 3 Sep AltLd O/S Amazing this!
with jackob
Amazing this!
with jackob
jackob 3 Sep AltLd
Hidden ?Aug Lead
Hidden ?Aug AltLd
Simon Allcock 31 Jul 2nd
with Carlo
with Carlo
Hidden 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
emma1987 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd Lead the odd pitches - the first few meters were really polished but the rest of the route made up for it :)
with lukey13
Lead the odd pitches - the first few meters were really polished but the rest of the route made up for it :)
with lukey13
tunnah 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with CMoore
with CMoore
CMoore 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with tunnah
with tunnah
JonnoP 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Pitches 3,4 and 5 were nice climbing with good exposure.
with Emily
Pitches 3,4 and 5 were nice climbing with good exposure.
with Emily
samrad 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with james G
with james G
farmus21 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with samrad
with samrad
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 Lead
james1978 25 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with pam
with pam
Hidden 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
Maddie 28 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Did the first pitch which was a bit tricky in the overhang. I was too slow though and busy route with 3 of us so sacked it off. Then it rained
with aidan, remus
Did the first pitch which was a bit tricky in the overhang. I was too slow though and busy route with 3 of us so sacked it off. Then it rained
with aidan, remus
Paula Ryan ?Jul, 2014 AltLd Had abseil back to Myriam near the crux pitch
with Robin Brooke
Had abseil back to Myriam near the crux pitch
with Robin Brooke
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead
rdi1v07 29 Aug, 2009 Lead 8 pitches
8 pitches
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd in the hail! started halfway up and was easier to climb than retreat the traverses
in the hail! started halfway up and was easier to climb than retreat the traverses
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set