Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Interesting climbing. Begin on the raised ledge above a short approach wall. Head up the cracks and wall to an overhang. Surmount the overhang directly and reach a lower-off just above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An unlikely addition for the grade with some nice moves that compensate for its less appealing beginning. Start left of Lord Haw Haw, immediately above the approach scramble.
Climb carefully up the initial cracks then pull up rightwards onto the upper grey wall. Good holds lead to the overlap which then is surmounted on its right side.
Gordon A Jenkin, Dan Birkby (both led), Yvonne Jones 13/Sep/2015.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
PaulJepson | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Looks like people are going left into the choss to avoid the roof (chalk). Don't do this! You will die! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Looks like people are going left into the choss to avoid the roof (chalk). Don't do this! You will die! |
||||
Oogachooga | 9 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock on the roof, a big hand sized chunk came off today...helmets required! Otherwise we'll worth it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock on the roof, a big hand sized chunk came off today...helmets required! Otherwise we'll worth it! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents