Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A decent couple of pitches with the hardest section being short. Begin 9m right of Still Nice and Still Sleazy.
1) 5c,15m. Climb the initial wall and continue above it until a move right gains a little ledge. The crack in the corner leads to a grassy ledge and bolted belay.
2) 6b, 15m. Move up right and back left with difficulty and then up again to a ledge. Easier but still good moves lead to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A welcome addition to the quarry. The crux is a single hard move past a bolt on the second pitch; otherwise it’s only F6a+. The abseil from the top rings reaches the ground in 30 metres. Start on a raised shelf 10m right of Still Nice and Still Sleazy
1 17m F6a [7B] Take a direct line up the lower wall and then follow the centre of the narrowing pillar above (avoiding any loose ground to the sides). Where it finishes move up to hidden holds and step across right onto a small projecting ledge. Climb the crystalline crack in the corner ensuring that you keep left away from any looseness as far as is possible. Walk up the grass slope to a double ring belay. Take care with the various blocks etc hereabouts.
1 15m F6B+ [6B] Step up right and reach for some hidden edges then make a very hard span horizontally left to a much need triangular hold. Move up to the comfy resting shelf above then climb directly up pleasant ground on a continuous series of good holds. At the top swing across left to a double ring abseil station.
Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 09/Jul/2015.
All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Soft touches near Bristol
User | Date | Notes | ||
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KoalaChlo | 9 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Sketchy landslide bit between the last clip and toppo. Get safe quickly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sketchy landslide bit between the last clip and toppo. Get safe quickly. |
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GGD | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Large perched block at belay atop P1 has now been removed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large perched block at belay atop P1 has now been removed. |
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Oogachooga | 18 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Please be aware of the looseness in this area. If climbers are below, better ask them to move as rocks will come down at some point while climbing the routes here. Helmets are a must. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Please be aware of the looseness in this area. If climbers are below, better ask them to move as rocks will come down at some point while climbing the routes here. Helmets are a must. |
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