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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Tough but very worthwhile. The long flake crack left of an ivy covered pillar, passing a sapling at 8m. © Rockfax
Ticklists
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mattharper | 16 May, 2022 |
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βeta: The tiny abseil tree at the top un unacceptably small | βeta? | |
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βeta: The tiny abseil tree at the top un unacceptably small |
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| ali.scott | 15 May, 2022 |
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βeta: The small tree on the left with tat is unacceptable as an anchor imo. Safest way off seemed to be traversing right to the abseil of wolf whistle. There is also a huge amount of rock immediately above the route that looks like it’s held back by the last remnants of a tree. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The small tree on the left with tat is unacceptable as an anchor imo. Safest way off seemed to be traversing right to the abseil of wolf whistle. There is also a huge amount of rock immediately above the route that looks like it’s held back by the last remnants of a tree. |
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| c9smith8 | 1 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Good trees for anchor are far back, take care ab ropes don't get jammed because of this. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good trees for anchor are far back, take care ab ropes don't get jammed because of this. |
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| PaulJepson | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: There are some yellow and black stingy fellas at the top of this at the moment. Still climbable, as you can't belay anywhere near the top of the route anyway. Just don't hang around! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are some yellow and black stingy fellas at the top of this at the moment. Still climbable, as you can't belay anywhere near the top of the route anyway. Just don't hang around! |
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| evhall | 27 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: very loose top-out lots of earth + loose rock + need to find a solid tree well back to belay off | βeta? | |
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βeta: very loose top-out lots of earth + loose rock + need to find a solid tree well back to belay off |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Angel's Girdle
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)